• Terence Caplin
  • Terence Caplin

Camino de San Salvadore

Sat outside of the Cathedral of Oviedo which is the end point of this Camino if the weather allows me to walk the mountains. Read more
  • Trip start
    June 7, 2023

    Oviedo Cathedral

    June 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Staying in Oviedo overnight and catching the early train to Leon which is the start point of the San Salvadore. The San Salvadore Camino leads the pilgrim from the Camio France, which goes to Santiago Cathedral, to see the remains of Saint James, instead to see the cloth (sudarium) that is claimed to have covered the head of the dead Christ, which is in Oviedo Cathedral. There is an old saying; "who goes to Santiago and not to the Saviour, visits the servant and forgets the master".Read more

  • Leon Cathedral

    June 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    The start point of the Camino San Salvador. Taking a coffee and Sitting in the open with no rain, yet. There is Sun, occasionally. Booked into an Albergue which is very old and cramped and because I was very early I was allocated the bed nearest the door for 134 pilgrims. The train journey from Oviedo was 140 minutes and nearly one third was in tunnels which were in very long loops through the mountains; the views through the mist and clouds were spectacular. The train and stations were immaculately clean, all for £7.50.Read more

  • First marker for the San Salvadore

    June 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Went looking for my start route for the morning and walked the first 2km of the route and back again, just in time to save my washing from the rain which has started again with thunder.
    Gaudy's creation for Leon is casa Botines.
    There is every nation represented and staying in this albergue; from crowds of American youngsters to Japanese Korean, German and lots of French but I am yet to meet another English person.
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  • Just wandering in Leon

    June 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Just wandering with all the others who have emerged after a 2 hour thunder storm. There are some very rude Gargoles on the church, with their bottoms in the air. No idea of the significance.

  • First stop

    June 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Taking a water break with my new walking buddy who is Venezuelan economic refugee who now lives in Portugal called Margareta who has a fear of getting lost! The good thing is she is a natural Spanish speaker.
    It has been raining on and off for the last two hours.
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  • La Robla (the oak)

    June 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Walked for 7 straight hours through frequent rain showers to get to La Robla. Only one person ahead of us and currently only one other person in the albergue, an Irish woman who walked half way here yesterday. There appears to be other walkers we have seen at a distance but the must be staying in private accommodation.
    The paths are all washed out end you are walking on boulders which hurts the feet.
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  • Poladura de la Tercia

    June 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    What an excellent day walking through the mountains. The weather was good and the views were excellent. Neither the photos or the caption will do it justice. Only have a take away dinner tonight from the local rural guest house who was not able to give me a seat at a table due to them being full!Read more

  • Pajares or Payares

    June 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    The albergue is very clean and the hospetalero has just done our very muddy washing. The pathe was very wet, the mud very deep and the streams were difficult to cross but the walk was excellent. Lunch of local dishes and drinks at a local bar which we had to temporarily leave to collect drying boots and washing when the clouds burst.Read more

  • Herias or Erias

    June 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    This is the turn off from the camino to my albergue for tonight. I have now lost my Spanish and Venezuelan friends who need to continue walking to the next town to meet travel deadlines: very sad. The climb for the next 1.4 km is brutal but necessary to experience the hospitality of this albergue keeper.Read more

  • Bendueños

    June 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Arrived at this wonderful old word Church albergue run by a wonderful woman called Sandra. It was a long walk through high level wooded tracks that were very muddy and crossing streams was tricky. Only here an hour and the most violent thunder storm hit, as predicted, and we have had a succession of thunder storms that will continue through the night. When you can see through the mist clouds and rain, the view is wonderful. Sandra prepared a soup for lunch using lumps of meat that are not identifiable.Read more

  • Iglesia Christina

    June 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Going slowly down towards Pola de la Lena which is my stop tonight; a very short day to avoid the predicted rain storms. The next two days look much better weather in which to complete my journey to Oviedo. Stopped at this ancient Word Heritage site of some importance, apparently! Leaving the mountains behind and following along the river valleys where it is more built up. Looking forward to seeing my first food shop in 50 km.Read more

  • Pola de Lena

    June 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    What a difference a day makes in the type of albergues. I am on the first floor of a municipal office block that has an area set aside as a municipal albergue and the building receptionist is the hospitalera. All very clean and souless but only one other pilgrim has booked for tonight. The rain started just as I entered the town but those who walked further will be soaked. Waiting for a break in the weather to go and get a lunch. The receptionist has recommended a restaurant called El miño and indicated its potential qualities by rubbing here belly and saying very cheap (mas barato). I shall take her advice.Read more

  • El Miño, Pola

    June 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    This is one reason I love Spain. The menu de dia in El Mino is €10. It is known as a rough sidraria (Astorian cider house ) but look at my lunch. The waiter is huge like Bifo the bear has a deep booming voice and slams everything; plates, drawers, bottles and glasses. When he delivers anything with a crash you just smile at him and he is more than compliant even helpful. He even interpreted the choice of sweets.
    Bread (large hunks, unlimited), bean and rice stew with lumps of pork, sausage and black pudding. A huge taurine and you eat as much as you want/ can. It is enough for a family. Small pieces of veal in batter with chips, a slice of local cheese cake with strawberry sauce, a whole bottle of wine, a bottle of sparkling water and a coffee. All for less than £10?
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  • Uxo or ujo

    June 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Half way through today's stage which is only 14 km. Stopped at a cafe in Uxo for coffee and a breakfast roll and was given a freshly cooked cake by the owner. Cafe con leche, bocadillo con tortilla; only €2.5. Just over £2!Read more

  • Trip end
    June 16, 2023