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- Dzień 168
- wtorek, 19 marca 2024
- ☁️ 30 °C
- Wysokość: 4 m
TanzaniaRas Shangani6°9’47” S 39°11’8” E
Stone Town (Zanzibar)

Many of us associate the name Zanzibar with crystal clear water and nice beaches 🏖️ - some even speak of paradise. But Zanzibar is big … very big. It is an archipelago in the Indian Ocean, 25–50 km (16–31 mi) off the coast 🌊 of the African mainland, and consists of many small islands and two large ones: Unguja (the main island, informally referred to as Zanzibar) and Pemba Island. I spent a few days in Stone Town - the historic centre and World Heritage Site in Zanzibar City (the capital) located on the island of Unguja.
I arrived there with the start of the low season. 🌦️ It is supposed to be much quieter during that time than during high season ☀️ as many restaurants and party locations are closed - and I could really feel it. I didn’t mind it though because it was also much more relaxed and cheaper that way. 😌
In addition, it was Ramadan for the next 30 days. Europeans 🇪🇺 are quick to think it just is a yearly Muslim custom to stop eating and drinking from dawn till sunset but actually it’s much more than that. It’s a month of fasting, prayer 🙏, reflection and community. Hence changing ones behaviour to refrain from stealing, betraying or lying and to be kind to one another - at least during this time - plays an equally important role as fastening. Have you tried to be kind to others while you were hungry? 🤔 It’s not an easy task - that’s for sure! 😅
The reason for fasting that was explained to me by a local was striking: it is about equality. Rich and less affluent people alike shall experience what it is like to have not enough food 🍲 or water - the normality for some of their poorest fellow human beings. This should also help to foster a greater understanding for one another, I guess. Also for me as a tourist🧳, it meant that I would experience some of the restrictions that Ramadan put on the Zanzibarian population. And it prompted me to think once again of the luxurious life many of us Westerners have - and that we don’t even realize it most of the time. 😒
While many of the few places (that were still open) served food and drinks before 6.30 pm,
some allowed only take aways 🥡 - such as the popular “Lukmaan” restaurant with traditional Swahili food. Other more touristy places like the “Cape Town Fish Market” served western-style food to eat-in but did not serve alcohol 🚫 before 6.30 pm. And the pretty nice “Mama Mia” ice cream shop 🍧 required its guests to eat their ice cream inside the shop. So everyone had his own approach but essentially you would never see anyone eating on the street - out of respect 🫡 for the people who took Ramadan seriously.
Overall, I liked Stone town - it is nice but also expensive 💸 Don’t get me wrong. You can rent an apartment there for only 400 EUR a month and buy your food on the very extensive and diverse local market. But you can also easily pay European prices if you go to the touristy places for lunch and dinner or attend one of the tours there - snorkelling 🤿, diving, visiting the tortoises 🐢 on prison island, … I didn’t feel compelled to either of these options. All I wanted was to rest because I was already so full of impressions from the past 5 months - adding new ones would not make a difference anymore. So, I didn’t do much in Stonetown apart from walking 🚶 around and seeing the city (as well as testing the restaurants). The history in this part of the country is seemingly identical to what I have already encountered on Lamu in Kenya 🇰🇪 From the 9th century Swahili merchants participated in a wide trade network spanning across the Indian Ocean. In the 15th century the Portuguese 🇵🇹 colonised the east African Coast including Zanzibar. And later in the 17th century the British 🇬🇧 and Omani 🇴🇲 forces worked together to rule the region. The history gets interesting in the 1960s when Zanzibar first was promoted from a British protectorate to an independent country within the Commonwealth. Only to be merged - as a result of a revolution that took place just a month later - with Tanganyika (former name of the Tanzanian mainland) in 1964. That’s why today Zanzibar is still a semi-autonomous region within Tanzania. 🤓
Walking in the touristy parts near the coast, was a bit annoying though because every couple of minutes somebody tries to sell you something 🙄 … a tour, souvenirs, a taxi ride for now or an airport transfer for tomorrow … the conversations always followed the same pattern: somebody would shout from afar “Yes!” or “Hello Mr.?” before they come closer, introduce themselves and ask for your name, your nationality and if you are well. Unless you are absolutely rude and just completely ignore them it requires some creativity to answer all advances with corresponding excuses. If you haven’t developed the skill of friendly but firmly saying “No” in your life yet, then you will certainly learn it here. 😅 Czytaj więcej
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- Dzień 171
- piątek, 22 marca 2024
- ☁️ 32 °C
- Wysokość: 14 m
TanzaniaKendwa5°45’10” S 39°17’25” E
Beachlife @ Zanzibar

When I talked 🗣️ to other travellers about Zanzibar, everyone was recommending Paje on the east coast of Unguja (the main island, informally referred to as Zanzibar).
So, I decided to spend 2 nights there in the hostel “Your Zanzibar Place”. Like everywhere else on Africas east coast, it was very hot and humid. But a breeze 💨 here and there made the temperatures more or less bearable.
In addition, the cycles of low and high tide as well as the very shallow beaches resulted in the water being gone for most of the day. It was windy though which made the beach perfect for kite surfers 🏄 but not me. Getting a kind of refreshing bath in the (warm) sea was therefore only possible in the mornings, really. 😩
On my first evening in the hostel, I met Pedro (from Denmark) again who I still knew from Arusha. He came back from a full day trip with a scooter and was reporting about corrupt police men 👮🏿 who would ask him for bribes on 3 different occasions that day - unfortunately nothing unusual on Zanzibar. On the next morning, we met Gloria (from Kenya) at the breakfast 🥞 table. She was usually living and working in Nairobi but took the week off to spend her holidays in Paje. After breakfast, the three of us went to the beach 🏖️ and made the best of the ebbing tide. Unfortunately, both had to leave at lunchtime for their home countries that day. So, my encounter with them was only brief.
As I wrote in my last post, it is currently pretty quiet 🤫 on Zanzibar because of Ramadan as well as the start of the rainy season. Thus, there was not much else to do in Paje. I went a few times to the very cozy “Mr. Kawaha” restaurant / café ☕️ directly on the beach front to continue reading my book but I got bored pretty quickly and with all the circumstances (heat, humidity and missing ocean to cool off) I didn’t feel as if I wanted to spend more time in Paje. Sadly, I didn’t leave it with the feeling that it was such a great place. 😕
However, I treated myself to 3 nights in the “Natural Kendwa Villa” (3-star hotel) at Kendwa Beach. Kendwa is in the north of Zanzibar and on the western coast / opposite side to Paje. Therefore, it was not affected as much by low and high tide 🌊 It is the place with one of the nicest beaches on Zanzibar. And the 3-star hotel - though still expensive for low season (120 EUR / night) - was really cozy. It was exactly what I needed!
Although it rained every day for approximately 1-2 hours, the afternoons were usually very sunny. ☀️ That allowed me to chill and continue to read my book at the pool of the “Natural Kendwa Villa” as well as the private beach of the cooperating Kendwa Rocks Hotel (4-Star hotel). And when I went into the cool and crystal clear water on that beach, I knew that I had finally found it - the paradise 🏝️ everyone was referring to when thinking of Zanzibar.
The villa and the beach had restaurants / bars and I lifted my otherwise pretty rigid travel budget restrictions for those 3 days to be able to fully enjoy the time. So, an ice cream 🍦 , a fruit juice 🥤, a beer 🍺 or a cocktail 🍹 was never far away. On my last day in Kendwa, I even got a 1 hour long massage in the Spa of my hotel. It was really good and added nicely to the relaxation of the past few days. After all the hostels and budget accommodations of the past months, it was a welcome change to stay in such a nice place towards the end of my trip. 😌 Czytaj więcej
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- Dzień 173
- niedziela, 24 marca 2024 21:19
- ☁️ 25 °C
- Wysokość: 8 m
TanzaniaMto Kurasini6°49’17” S 39°16’45” E
Dar es Salaam

I took the ferry ⛴️ from Zanzibar a few days ago to get to my last destination in my 6-months long trip: Dar es Salaam (I will abbreviate the city with Dar in the following). Actually, taking the plane ✈️ would have been cheaper but for such a small distance (it’s only a 30 min. flight ) it was simply too much hustle to go to the airport, deal with security control, baggage drop-off, baggage claim, etc.
I would still have enough of that particular kind of fun when I fly home a few days later 😅 and taking the ferry was a more original experience anyway. After getting off the taxi and fending off some porters who were hell bent on carrying my luggage, I went through the checkin and security control at the port.
In the waiting hall, I immediately noticed the many destroyed seats💺 Honestly, I haven’t found a single seat that was still intact although the waiting hall was only half full - maybe the unbroken seats were all taken already. 🤔 However, a close by porter seemed to be amused about me making a photo of some seats and jokingly responded “this is Africa!” 😝 On the ferry the seats were very comfy nonetheless. I used the time on the 1,5 hours long ferry ride to continue reading my novel 📖 about the characters experiencing the Nigerian Civil War in the 1960s. So, time just flew by and before I knew it I was already in Dar.
One of my uncles works and lives since 7 years in Dar. So, I planned to meet him during my stay. Thats why I also picked a Hotel 🏨 in the city centre (close to where he lives) instead of the more touristy district “Masaki” in the north. I was surprised how big and modern Dar was - similar to when I first arrived in Nairobi. The otherwise pretty green city is dotted with skyscrapers 🏙️ and houses with glass fronts standing next to wide tarred streets … I was again reminded of my European prejudices about life in Africa. 😕And another thing, I also immediately noticed: it is loud in that city - engine noises, honking cars, never ending announcements through megaphones from the surrounding mosques 🕌 etc. Well, staying in a big metropolis like Dar was quite different to the calm and relaxed atmosphere that I have gotten used to on Zanzibar, I guess. 😅
My uncle works as a flight mechanic at Precision Air and had been called in for work on his “free” day. So, we could only meet in the evening after he had finished working. He picked me up with his car and we went for dinner 🥘 to Wavuvi Kempu at Coco Beach. The place seemed to be equally popular among the locals and foreigners. The location right at the beach front was as good as the food. For Tanzanian standards it was certainly on the pricier end of the restaurants 🤑 but coming from Zanzibar I didn’t feel much of a difference. The only caveat was that we sat outside and we had to be cautious of the rain. We managed to eat our dinner while the weather was still dry but afterwards we quickly had to leave because of an intense downpour 🌧️ The rain continued basically for the entire next day but I didn’t want to stay in my hotel room for the whole time. So, I booked a Bolt to the Slipway Hotel in the “Masaki” district. Some fellow travelers that I knew from Kenya and that I actually wanted to meet on Zanzibar got robbed in broad daylight 🤯 a few days earlier while getting into a fake taxi. They were forced to take as much money as possible out of the ATM. One of them even ended up in the hospital 🏥 with bruises and black eyes. Thus, I was wary of walking around and getting around in the city. I avoided any boda-bodas, tuk-tuks and random people offering me a ride to wherever I needed to go in favour Bolt 🚙 as one of the more expensive but safer options to use. The shortest connection between the city centre and the Masaki district led via the Tanzanite Bridge 🌁 It is an iconic sight in Dar that has its name from the blue lights it is illuminated with during the night.
Fun fact: Tanzanite is a gem 💎 unique to Tanzania that looks very similar to Sapphire but is only 1/10 as expensive (on average).
In the Masaki district, I went to the Lemon Tree Café to have a coffee ☕️ and do some souvenirs shopping afterwards. By pure chance I also passed the „Crafty Bee’s Brewing Company” - a pub with an affiliated brewery. I tried some tasting samples 🍺while I watched the first half of a football match between Norway and the Czech Republic. What else was there to do with a rainy afternoon in Dar anyways? 🤷
My uncle had to work that day and the next ones as well so that we actually did not manage to meet another time. Unfortunately, workers rights in Tanzania are not that strong. That's why he and his colleagues work 12-hour shifts for 4 days in a row and then have two days off (if they are not called in) 😕
There is certainly a labour shortage with regard to engineering jobs in Tanzanias aviation industry. During COVID many planes remained on the ground and the need for personnel was obviously marginal. Now capacities are being ramped up again and that leads to too much work for too few people. That’s why my uncle has good chances to extend his working visa in Tanzania until 2027 before he finally will retire. 👍
On my last day in Dar, I just walked 🚶around in the city centre for a bit as it had finally stopped raining again. Like in Nairobi, it was not allowed to take photos 📸 in many public spaces … for fear of terror attacks, when I understood the broken English of a security guard correctly.
Towards the evening I only sorted my luggage and packed my bags 🧳 in preparation for the journey back home. Czytaj więcej
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- Dzień 174
- poniedziałek, 25 marca 2024 15:35
- ☁️ 32 °C
- Wysokość: 39 m
TanzaniaJulius Nyerere International Airport6°51’49” S 39°12’37” E
Good bye, Africa!

Today my travel through Africa comes to an end. Although a part of my family originates from and still lives in Cape Verde 🇨🇻 - a small archipelago off the coast of Senegal in West Africa - I never had been to the continent.
I visited my family on Cape Verde many times already but I still had no idea what backpacking 🎒in East Africa would be like. Would there be hostels that allowed me to meet fellow travellers? In general, would there be enough of a tourism infrastructure to allow affordable (!) travel 🚌 for multiple weeks? Would it be safe to explore the different parts of the countries? … many questions that I have better answers to today (see below). 😌
Initially, I thought I would spend only a few weeks in Kenya 🇰🇪 and put my focus on Tanzania. Eventually, it was the other way around - 5 weeks in Kenya and only 2 weeks in Tanzania 🇹🇿 This was mainly because Kenya surprised me with many places that were worth visiting. When I arrived in Nairobi, I didn’t have more than a reservation for the first two nights in a hostel in Westlands (the district to be as Kenya first timer) and a departure flight ✈️ from Dar es Salaam in Tanzania roughly 7 weeks later. I had read about a few places in my travel guide and tried to research some additional information ℹ️ on the internet but by no means I had anything remotely resembling a travel itinerary. And unlike in other parts of the world a lot of the travel information was difficult to find or could not be found at all on the internet 🧐 So, I had to talk directly to the locals and other experienced travellers in order to get the valuable travel tips I was after. That being said, with the Jabulani Backpackers Hostel in Nairobi I had chosen the perfect first accommodation since Susan (the knowledgeable owner) prepped me with countless recommendations where to go (and where not to go 🚷). I truly believe that I could not have picked a better starting point and home base (I stayed 4 times there in total) because it also enabled me to create some memorable experiences in and around Nairobi with many travellers who I met there. 😊
It turned out that there are many busses that go around the country and it’s fairly cheap and easy to travel between cities. Depending on how much you are willing to pay, your journey will be more or less comfortable. Nevertheless, traffic is just insane 🤯 and although I knew that after a while I was often stunned how willingly drivers would put the lives of their passengers and their own lives at risk. 😤
I also found a few more hostels in Kenya and Tanzania - at least in the busier and touristy areas. They were nowhere near as abundant as in other parts of the world. Thus, I sometimes found myself in a guesthouse, an airbnb or (when my budget allowed it) a hotel/camp 🏕️ when I was visiting smaller places.
Much of the tourism industry is geared towards multi-day safaris through. Indeed, safaris and hiking tours (like Mt. Kenya or Mt. Kilimanjaro) seem to be the main drivers for the high costs 💰 that are usually associated with a trip to Africa. Accommodation and food prices are actually quite modest - except for a place like Zanzibar that is already expensive by itself. But Kenya still has the better value for money though as prices for comparable (if not better) safaris or hikes 🥾tend to be only half as high as in Tanzania. For example, safaris cost approximately 200 USD per day in Tanzania - depending on the location and your bargaining skills. In Kenya, they were „only“ around 120 USD although prices have dramatically increased after COVID 😌 But it doesn’t stop there. If you decide to go to Uganda instead and participate in some Gorilla trekking 🦍 than you are currently paying 600 USD per day just for the permit to the rainforest - guide, transport and accommodation are not included in that yet! 😮 Hiking Mt. Kilimanjaro costs at least 1000 USD and that is only if you choose to rush it in 4 days. Should you want to give yourself the chance to get used to the high altitude and take a few more days, then that experience will probably set you even back a mere 1500 - 2000 USD. 🤯 Granted - there is a lot of personell involved to support your hike (multiple porters, the guide, the cook) but you get the idea …
However, the East African countries have more to offer than just safaris and hikes. Especially the east coast 🌊 was interesting because it is so different from the „hinterland“ due to its ties and history with the Omanis, Portuguese and British. And of course you can also just enjoy the beaches, go snorkeling & diving 🤿, do kite surfing or whatever you like.
I could probably go on and on about my experiences in Kenya and Tanzania but this post must also end somewhere. So, let me finish with my top 5 🏆 of the past 7 weeks in chronological order:
- Nairobi (Kenya) is just a hell of a city! No wonder I was there so often.
- Naivasha (Kenya) offered many activities 🥾 and I enjoyed being there very much
- Lamu (Kenya) gave me great insight into the East African history and a glimpse into the past
- Arusha (Tanzania) will stay in my mind for its relaxed atmosphere in the Villa Viva and a great place for safaris
- Kendwa (Zanzibar) had arguably the best beach 🏖️ on the East Cost
All in all I had a great time in East Africa and I would be happy to comeback one day to see some more of its amazing beauty. 😎 Czytaj więcej
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- poniedziałek, 25 marca 2024 17:56
- ☁️ 25 °C
- Wysokość: Poziom morza
KatarHamad International Airport25°15’44” N 51°36’47” E
Stop-Over: Doha

What can I say - this morning I missed my Turkish Airlines flight to Berlin via Istanbul. I would like to blame it on the airline but it was entirely my fault 🤦
I booked the original flight about 1 year ago together with my other intercontinental flights for the past 6 months but against my better judgement I didn't do the online check in, as usually. 🙄 I guess I was influenced too much by the “Hakuna Matata” (no problem) mentality in Tanzania in the past weeks 😅 Otherwise I probably would have realised in time that the flight schedule was changed and the flight was moved 1 hour up in comparison to my initial booking. To make matters worse, the flight was initially scheduled for 7 am which is why I had gotten up at 4 am that morning. In hindsight that was either at least an hour too late or completely unnecessary. 😠
At the airport, I was initially wondering why the check-in counter for my flight was already closed but I didn't realise what was going on straight away. Only when I tried in vain to do the online check in, it did slowly dawn on me what was going on. So, I had no other choice than to buy a new ticket. Luckily, there was another an acceptable option in Qatar Airways flight at 11:45 am on the same day with a long layover in Doha. 🍀 But at least it did allow me to arrive only 12 hours later than initially planned. The ticket was surprisingly cheap (only 500 EURs) though.
So, I got up at 4 am that day only to sit for hours at international airports waiting for my flights - great. 😒
The Dar es Salaam International Airport was surprisingly empty and quiet. Even in the smoking lounge there was only one person. 😅 Maybe that was all due to Ramadan but I am really not sure. And the theme continued on the way to Doha: the first flight that was operated by Oman Air with an Airbus A330-300 was also nearly empty. 🤷 Only in Doha I was again surrounded by a lot of people again and things felt kind of normal at the airport.
I had approximately 8 hours „to kill“ until my connecting flight at 2 am on the next day Since I had already spent a considerable amount of money 💸 earlier that day, I didn’t care that much if a few EURs would be added to the overall expenditure. So, I went for duty free shopping 🛍️ - already in Dar es Salaam but also in Doha - and also into the Oryx Lounge at Doha international airport where I stayed until the boarding of my flight to Berlin. 🥳 Czytaj więcej

susi-pictureswhen there are no adventures, you create your own excitement 🤣🤣
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- piątek, 29 marca 2024 14:37
- ☁️ 14 °C
- Wysokość: 50 m
NiemcyBerlin Brandenburg Airport52°21’51” N 13°30’30” E
Home Sweet Home 😊

I am back in Berlin since a couple of days now and had time to meet some of my friends and even reflect 🤔 on the past months a bit. I am writing this post to properly wrap up my journey and to share some details about my trip back home.
Although the flight ✈️ from Doha to Berlin was at 2.30 am, it was fully booked. In addition, the seats in the Boing 787 were very densely packed and the aisles were pretty narrow 🤨 which made the 6 hour flight not nearly as comfy as my first flight from Dar es Salaam to Doha. I didn’t sleep for a minute and instead spent the time with listening to music 🎧 as well as watching a pretty weird German movie about the police suddenly sealing off all exits of an inner courtyard in the centre of Berlin - with no explanation to its inhabitants (see https://www.filmstarts.de/kritiken/257266.html).
The arrival in Berlin was refreshingly uneventful. Due to the eGates of the automated border control system 🪪 at the airport, immigration into the EU was done within 2 minutes and after some extended waiting time I was able to claim my luggage. 🧳
Navigating from the airport to my parents house took quite a bit. I indeed had completely forgotten where the platform was from which my train would depart and was immediately overwhelmed with all the options for public transport that my home city has to offer. 😅 Everything felt somewhat new but familiar at the same time.
At least the German weather was merciful with me and didn’t provide too much of a challenge - 13 degrees and sunshine ☀️
I still remember that I was stunned for a brief moment when I arrived at home: my backpack 🎒 and I really have traveled around the world and we were back where it all started almost half a year ago. And it felt good to be back home again. 😌
In my 6 month long journey, I had covered almost 75000 km visiting or just passing through 12 countries. I travelled most of that distance by plane ✈️ Train and bus rides made up at least a 10th of the journey. From well organised and safe Japan 🇯🇵 to rather chaotic as well as more dangerous East African countries 🇰🇪🇹🇿 - it hardly could have been more diverse but experiencing exactly these extreme differences made my journey also so interesting.
In the comments of my last post, I was asked about my thoughts 💭 about the sense or meaning of travelling. Well, here is my attempt to answer the question: I guess my desire to travel is fuelled by the human curiosity 🧐 that is inherent in all of us. Almost every place has something interesting to offer - be it its people and cultural aspects like food, music and local customs or its nature and history. Visiting a total of 44 countries in the world 🌍 by now has certainly had a profound impact on my personality: for example, it helped me to have a clearer understanding on the positive aspects and the quality of my life in Europe 🇪🇺 and how well it is in comparison to the lifes of others in many parts of the world. I like to think that this viewpoint allowed me to develop an openness and tolerance that I otherwise might not have. 🤗
For me, that really is one of the most important things about travelling and I am certain that our world would be in a better place when more people would have the opportunity to experience what I have experienced. 🫤
Traveling for an extended period of time has even more benefits: you have a lot of time to think and reflect - usually more than you get in your everyday life at home 🏠 Thus, whenever I came back from a journey like this it inspired me to change something in my life. This time I feel the urge to help preserve the beauty of our earth 🌍 so that we can still enjoy it for a long time. I already have some ideas 💡 on how to contribute and hope that I can implement them soon.
Last but not least - there are still a lot of interesting places left to visit in the world. 😇 I am already thinking about new destinations like Vietnam 🇻🇳, Laos 🇱🇦 and the Philippines 🇵🇭 in Asia or Namibia 🇳🇦, Botswana 🇧🇼 and Zimbabwe 🇿🇼 in Africa but I cannot ignore that me visiting these countries contributes to climate change and ultimately the destruction of what makes them special (through over-tourism or other modern phenomena). Therefore, I estimated my carbon footprint 👣 for the journey and calculated a reasonable donation to offset the carbon emissions I had caused. I pledge to donate 500 EURs 💶 to one or more environmental projects later this year! Suggestions are welcome 🥳
In addition, I will try to organise my future trips with as few flights as possible. That also means that I won’t go on any trips spanning 3 or more continents anymore. Exploring and staying in only one region of the world at a time and using local transportation services should be absolutely sufficient. 😊 Czytaj więcej