Sabbactical 2023/24

October 2023 - March 2024
This was my third 6-month backpacking trip and I wanted to fill in some blanks in the my imaginary travel map. So, I decided to visit Indonesia, Japan, Mexico as well as Kenya/Tanzania (and anything else that came along the way) Read more
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  • 12countries
  • 175days
  • 757photos
  • 44videos
  • 87.8kkilometers
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  • 523sea miles
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  • Berlin: preparations

    September 26, 2023 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Only one week from now, I am going to start my sabbatical traveling the world for the next 6 months. I am a bit nervous but also excited.

    Most of the organisational stuff is already out of the way (thank god, it is done. The past weeks have been really stressful) and now I can focus on seeing some friends for the last time this year and packing my stuff. As you probably know from my past, I did already some backpacking.

    Nevertheless, I always felt that some things (I really needed) were missing and other things (although I thought they would be vital for my journey) I didn't use at all. Hence, I am reading blog entries like this one to come up with a good list of items to take with me: https://stingynomads.com/backpacking-checklist/

    This is my backpacking checklist …

    EDIT: after I have returned home, I updated the list with hints on what I could have left at home respectively, what I should have brought instead

    the essentials:
    - 6 pairs of underwear
    - 8 t-shirts, half of them made from breathable fabrics that can also dry fast (I bought 2 more t-shirts along the way)
    - 1 shirt
    - 6 shorts, 2 normal ones / 2 for hiking / 2 for swimming
    - 3 long trousers, 1 for normal use / 1 for hiking / 1 sweatpants
    - 2 towels, 1 for laying down at the beach / 1 microfiber towel to dry off
    - 1 toilet bag
    - 1 travel medicine pack incl. malaria prevention etc.
    - 1 pair of flip flops
    - 1 pair of hiking boots

    the stuff to keep me warm or dry (e. g. during Winter in Japan):
    - 1 hoodie
    - 1 pair of thermal underwear
    - 2 jackets, 1 wind-proof / 1 water-repellent (I could have left the wind-proof jacket at home since I never used it in the whole trip)
    - 1 rain-poncho
    - 1 thin hat, thin gloves and 1 tube scarf

    the tech stuff:
    - 1 iPad and small keyboard
    - 1 GoPro incl. waterproof case for snorkelling in Indonesia/Latin America
    - 1 SLR camera incl. tele lens for safari in Africa (I forgot the charging cable and a means to transfer the photos to my iPhone or iPad which was really a huge mistake)
    - 1 Powerbank
    - 1 Bluetooth speaker
    - 1 FireTV Stick (I should have left this at home since I never used it)
    - 1 electrical toothbrush (I used it in the beginning, but in some countries I could not recharge it - so it was quite useless in the majority of time / I should have left it at home)

    misc:
    - 1 head lamp (never used it because I had the flash light already)
    - 1 flashlight
    - 1 lighter
    - 2 padlocks (one would have been enough)
    - 1 dry bag
    - 2 storage bags (I wished I had more of them to organise the content of my backpack better)
    - 5 zip bags, 2 medium / 3 small size (I didn’t really use them)
    - 1 organizer with adapter, USB cables, chargers, …
    - 2 money belts and a spare wallet (I didn’t really use the spare wallet and I gave one of my money belts away to another traveller)
    - 1 summer hat
    - 1 laundry line and 6 clothespins (absolutely should have been left at home - I never used it)
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  • Day 1

    Goodbye, Deutschland

    October 4, 2023 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    These are my last minutes in Germany 🇩🇪 for this year. Take-off is imminent. 😉

    It was nice to see many of you in the past week. Now it is time to start a new chapter in my life. I don’t know what this chapter will bring, but this is also part of the excitement. And yet, I am sure it will be a memorable time. Besides, my little talisman will keep me safe 😌

    Cheers to all of you and see you soon!
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  • Day 1

    Stop over: Doha

    October 4, 2023 in Qatar ⋅ 🌙 32 °C

    After a tranquil flight to Doha / Qatar 🇶🇦, I am currently waiting for my connection to Jakarta. 🛫

    The food on the plane was surprisingly good. And with a couple Gin & Tonics 🍸during the flight, one can say that my vacation has officially started now. 😅
    I already got to see the first of many upcoming sunsets 🌅 when we landed in Doha. So, everything went really well until now.

    Next time you will hear from me from Indonesia 🇮🇩. Stay tuned. 😎
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  • Day 2

    Hello Indonesia! 😊

    October 5, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    After a rather bumpy flight to Jakarta, I am now sitting in the lobby of the FM7 Resort Hotel (Airport Hotel) and the pool - waiting for the check-in. 😌
    Once again, it was thrilling at the baggage claim but eventually my undamaged backpack 🎒 slipped onto the conveyor belt 😃 (for those who don’t know: many years ago I waited for my luggage the first 9 days of my 3-week long Nicaragua 🇳🇮 vacation - with countless calls to the support hotline and visits to the airport. I definitely didn’t want to repeat that right now 😂). Immigration and declaration of customs was easy though. 👍
    I also withdrew some Indonesian Rupiah 💸 from the ATM 🏧 at the airport - finally, I am a millionaire 😎

    I am glad the long-distance flights ✈️ are behind me and everything worked out well. Now the real journey can begin. 🏞️
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  • Day 4

    First days in Bandung

    October 7, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The first days of my journey have passed - time for an update 😌:

    I have spent the last days in Bandung in the D&D Backpackers Hostel where I met many fellow travellers from the Netherlands 🇳🇱, Germany 🇩🇪 and even one guy from Norway 🇳🇴
    The staff was super friendly, took us to many local food places in the city and arranged a full day tour (14 hours) for us to explore the southern region. The tour was really exciting. Early in the morning we slipped through the heavy Bandung traffic (piggybacking on the motorbikes 🏍️ of our drivers). After approximately 2 hours we reached „white crater“ (the very visible trace of an active volcano 🌋 in that region) which offers some unusually colourful and beautiful views due to the high sulphur concentration in that area. I was also surprised that I would find mountains with such high altitudes here in Indonesia 🇮🇩 (the area is about 2300 m above sea level). This also allows people here to grow tea leaves 🍃 for green and black tea on one of the many fields nearby (over all they cover up to 3500 hectares).
    After some mei goreng (fried noodles) for lunch 🥗 we visited a leisure park where we hiked to a waterfall and got some much needed refreshment in its cold water 💦 (probably not more than 20 degrees Celsius).
    Next up were the hot springs which are also very common for this volcanic area. Getting into the water required a little bit of will power since it’s temperature was around 40 degrees Celsius. But once I was in, it felt pretty good 😊
    We were in for a treat that day. So before getting into the hot springs, we took a mud bath (which is supposed to be good for your skin). However, removing the mud was anything else than easy since it pretty much stuck to my skin. It would not even surprise me if I did not completely got rid of it by now. 😅
    After sunset we drove for an hour back towards our hostel and went for dinner 🍲 at another local place which served many little dishes on small plates to share among our group (perhaps the Indonesian version of tapas). The food was again excellent. My favourites were the coconut flavoured chicken wings 🥘 and the curry style jackfruit 🍈.
    After dinner we again had to squeeze us (for another hour or so) through the now even heavier Bandung Saturday night traffic. I really don’t know how our drivers can put up with this day in day out. Traffic is really horrible here (at least for Europeans, I guess). I wouldn’t even think in my dreams about driving here 😂
    Anyways, at around 9pm we were back in the hostel. And that gave me at least a little time to arrange my onward travel to and accommodation in Yogyakarta. After some beers with my fellow travellers, I went packing/preparing everything for today’s journey. The night was short (only 4-5 hours) but that way I could catch the early 7am train and I will be approx. at 3pm in Yogyakarta. I wonder what I will encounter there during the next 4 days … I will keep you posted ☺️
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  • Day 6

    Emersing in Nature near Yogyakarta

    October 9, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    After arriving in Yogyakarta (or „Yogya“ for short), I went for a 2-hour walk 🚶‍♂️through the city centre and Maliboro Street and aligned with some other travellers on renting a car 🚙 with a driver for a day to go to some waterfalls 💦 and caves.

    On the next day, we met at 8 am for breakfast 🍳 at a café that was located right in the middle between our hostels. Our driver had some issues with his car battery 🪫 and was therefore late to pick us up but we weren’t in a rush. Approximately 9 am we started our tour. The waterfalls are in the Javanese mountains 🏔️ and the car had its fair share of difficulties getting up the steep serpentines - we barely made it without getting out of the car and pushing it 😅
    But the trouble was definitely worthwhile: the waterfalls were really amazing and we were basically alone there! We spent almost an hour in that tiny paradise 🌴
    For lunch 🍵, we went to a nice restaurant „in the middle of the jungle“ that our driver has recommended. This place was so nice and quiet - quite the opposite to the noisy and bustling Yogya 😌
    In the afternoon, we visited one of the nearby and impressive caves before we drove back to the city. I was really surprised by its size. When advertised, the cave did not play a big role but it was definitely worth the visit. Back in Yogya, I stayed at the hostel of my fellow travellers until dinner, since they were in a much nicer neighbourhood than me. A chicken teriyaki and a couple of beers 🍻 later (it was already past midnight), I headed back to my hostel and fell into my bed after a long and eventful day 😴😊
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  • Day 7

    Temple Time in Yogya(karta)

    October 10, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    After a lot of nature yesterday, we spent our second day in Yogyakarta (aka. „Yogya“) in the city. 🏙️ In the morning we had some coffee ☕️ at the really nice and cosy „Fill in Blue“ café, booked our flight ✈️ from Yogyakarta (Java) to Denpasar (Bali) as well as a room for 1 night there.

    Initially, I wanted to travel to Malang to start a tour to Mt. Bromo 🌋 but the train connection was anything but ideal and some of the fellow travellers I met (with whom I get along very well) wanted to fly to Bali - so I simply joined them now. We are planning to explore the islands 🏝️ of Bali and Lombok. Depending on the availability of the ferry and accommodation we might spend a couple of days on Bali before we head on to Lombok (it is supposed to be the nicer one of the two islands).

    After organizing the basics for the next few days, we walked to Tamam Sari (a water temple built in the 18th century) and strolled around in and outside the area. On the way we picked up some samosa-like pieces from a local bakery 🥯 and continued our 25 min. march to our first destination of the day.
    The water temple 🏛️ seems to be a very nice blend of Javanese architecture influenced by a European style making the temple look special.
    It was super-hot 🔥 and humid so we were grateful for every bit of shade and wind 🌬️ that provided some relieving cold. We sat for a while in the tower the sultan has built to be able observe his bathing concubines.
    Our second (and last) stop for that day was the Prambanan temple - supposedly the most beautiful temple of Indonesia 🇮🇩 it is a huge and nicely maintained area with massive ancient looking buildings that host many Hindu gods. Besides us tourists there were literally hundreds of pupil 👩‍🎓from different schools 🏫 that were hunting for interviews with the European looking man and women amongst us for some school project or so. For obvious reasons, people with pale skin (and preferably blonde hair) are a real attraction here in Indonesia. I have seen already all sorts of ways (kind and cheeky) by the locals to get a highly desired photo 📸 with one or more of the white „celebrities“ 😅 The pupils at Prambanan were really nice and quite shy though. So, all of them greeted nicely but only a few of them asked for a photo. I guess my fellow travellers were quite happy it was that way 😂
    After walking the area and visiting all of the buildings, we sat down at a outdoor cafeteria and waited for the sunset 🌅 which provided the opportunity for some additional colourful pictures of the sight that belongs to the UNESCO World Heritage nowadays.

    After sunset we drove back to our hostels. Like the day before, I spent the time until dinner in the hostel of my newly found friends. For dinner we went to another local place. The food was good but not enough to get stuffed - especially not after a day with a lot of walking 🚶‍♂️ (approx. 25.000 steps) and no real lunch 😅
    So I got some ice cream from Indonesia’s finest (House of Chocolate Monggo & Gelato Tirtodipuran) on our way to another high class restaurant where we all had some beer 🍺 or wine 🍷 before we called it a day.
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  • Day 10

    Get me to Lombok

    October 13, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    I am in Senggigi on Lombok, which marks the end of a multiple day spanning trip from Java to Lombok.

    Three days ago, I boarded the airplane ✈️ from Lionair for my flight to Denpasar (Bali). The flight was delayed by two hours due to „operational difficulties“. Given that the ticket had cost below 50,- EUR per person although we booked just the day before there was not too much to complain about. Later in the hostel where we spent the night, we met another traveller who’s flight had even 3 hours delay which makes me think this is the norm here. 😅

    Once we arrived in Denpasar, we needed to somehow go to our hostel on turtle island 🐢 to spend the night. It was already quite late due to the delayed flight and nobody of us felt like taking the public bus. So we called a „Grab“. Grab 🚕 is the equivalent of Uber (and Uber Eats) or similar transportation and delivery services here in Indonesia 🇮🇩 Like in every other country it is one of the most convenient ways to get around for small money. 💰 And when you can even share the price among 3 people (like us) it becomes super affordable. For example, we drove with a „Grab“ 🚕 on the next day for 2 hours from Denpasar to Padangbai which is approximately a distance of 45 km. We paid not more than 280.000 IDR in total (around 6,- EUR per person). But I am getting ahead of myself here. 🫢

    On turtle island 🐢, we went to dinner and found lots of places with Seafood 🦞 which I found great. However, Klara is allergic to Seafood. In addition, the whole island smelled like Seafood - poor Klara. 😅 So we had a hard time finding a suitable restaurant which also served vegetarian options. Just before we wanted to give up and head back to the hostel to „enjoy“ some instant noodles 🍜, we found a nice local restaurant which even offered Nasi and Mei Goreng. Unfortunately, both dishes were not available 😬
    So, Paula and I shared an entire fish 🐠 and Klara simply ordered rice and vegetables 🥦 We also ordered Bintang (local beer) and because they were out of it, the waitress even went on her motorcycle to the next shop to buy a whole bunch for us. That’s what I call customer service 😁
    Meanwhile, the chef(s) prepared the fish for us. They made a quite spicy soup 🍲 out of the front part and grilled the remaining parts. It was delicious! 🤤

    As I wrote earlier, we took a „Grab“ 🚕 to Padangbai the next morning. Padangbai is a pretty laid back diving place on the east coast of Bali. In fact, there is not much besides snorkelling in the Blue Lagoon and diving in some more remote spots. Nevertheless, we had a good time and enjoyed our evening in some local restaurants close by the beach 🏖️

    On the next morning we took the ferry to Bangsal (one of the ports to arrive on Lombok). Although we were promised a 1,5 hours journey as well as Air Condition, neither of both was true. 😂 It was boiling hot in the ferry 🔥 and since it took some time until we could depart, we were all sweating like hell. 🥵 at least, during the trip the air flow provided some cooling but when we arrived at the Gili Islands and waited for most of the passengers to get off the ferry ⛴️ , the sweating started again. 🥵 Luckily, we found a free spot on the upper deck of the ferry ⛴️ for the remainder of the trip to Bangsal. All in all it took until approx. 1 pm to arrive at our destination. A refreshing iced latte🥛later, we boarded another „Grab“ to Senggigi where we checked in into our hotel. 🏨 When we arrived, we were warmly greeted by our host. She even told us that we were her first guests as she reopened the hotel after Corona and some personal matters that required her attention. The afternoon/evening we spent at the beach watching the sunset 🌅 and contemplating the next days. Tomorrow we will probably try to rent scooters 🛴 and drive around in the local area here where traffic is much more calm and predictable. It seems to be the ideal spot for getting a feeling for driving a scooter 🛴 in South-East Asia. So, wish me luck 🍀 😊
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  • Day 13

    Senggigi

    October 16, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    I spent a couple of days on Lombok now. Read here how things went in the past 72 hours.

    After checking in into our Hotel in Senggigi we went straight to the beach and spent the afternoon there. It is getting dark relatively early here in Indonesia (around 6pm). So, we watched the sunset 🌅 from a beach bar during dinner before we went to the mini market at the gas station to buy some (meanwhile obligatory) beers 🍻 for the night.

    On our second day in Senggigi we rented motorbikes 🏍️ to explore the area. After a few practice runs on the small street in front of our hotel, we felt confident enough to join the real traffic. I still knew driving (but with a car) on the „wrong side of the road“ from my time in England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 and Australia 🇦🇺 The fact that traffic on Lombok is rather quite in comparison to what we had seen on Java and Bali before, additionally helped. I guess, the traffic would have been even more quiet if there was not a race from the MotoGP on this weekend in Lombok. Indonesians are really passionate about their motorcycles. One of the grab drivers that gave us a lift in Yogyakarta even jokingly said: „basically there is 1:1 relation between motorcycles and citizens in Indonesia“ and I can attest to that 😅
    Anyways, we headed south with our bikes and followed the streets through some villages and rice fields. At lunch we drove up a hill until we reached the top of monkey 🐒forest. We ate Mei Goreng 🍜 in a local restaurant (that was not really prepared to handle any tourists) before we started climbing 🧗 up the hilly terrain and searching the monkeys that give this forest its name. It didn’t take long for us to find a dozen of them.
    In the afternoon, we used the time to search and enjoy the Sekoah Waterfall in the north of the area that surrounds Senggigi. It was not easy to find since Google Maps 🗺️ had very different ideas on how to get there in comparison to what seemed to be possible in the real world 🌎 So we found it only by asking around and with the help of some locals. Moreover, the last bit of the passage was so steep and narrow that we did not dare to run it down with our motorbikes. Instead, we walked 🦶 the narrow trail to the waterfall - coconut trees 🌴 and
    cacao plants 🌱 to the left and right - guided by 5-6 children for whom we were the attraction of the day (realistically they were more interested in Klara and Paula than me though 😁). The entire time that we spent at the waterfall they kept very close to us (as you can probably see on one of the photos 😅).
    Before dawn, we drove back to our hotel and enjoyed the scenic route along the west coast of Lombok. Even though I was a bit nervous about driving in Indonesia 🇮🇩 in the beginning, I am glad that I did it since it enabled me to visit some places on Lombok that I wouldn’t have seen otherwise and of course it’s now a skill that I can also put to use elsewhere.

    On our last day in Senggigi we took surf lessons in a local surf 🏄 school. Abdul (the owner) took it upon himself to teach us his secrets. He had support from his mates so that we basically ended up with 2-3 hours of private lessons for a really good price. The girls seemed to have more talent than me but it was fun anyways. Nevertheless, it was tiring which is why we didn’t do much in the afternoon anymore.
    I was running out of cash which was a problem (since you pay everything with cash here). So, I needed to go to an ATM 🏧 that supports withdrawal of money from international banks (not all do). Unfortunately, the closest one was a 4km march away and we didn’t know at the time when we started walking 🚶 Klara destroyed her flip flop 🩴 on the way so we stopped at a small local market to buy a new pair for little money 💴 and observed some interesting bargaining techniques by the seller. 😅 After sorting everything out (ATM, flip flops etc.) we sat down and had some beers in a bar before we took a „Grab“ 🚗 back to our hotel.

    Our next stop will be Kuta (on Lombok) which is a 2 hour drive south from here. Transportation is already arranged. We conveniently agreed a pickup time ⏰ and the price 🏷️ with our last „Grab“ driver.
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  • Day 14

    Kuta (Lombok)

    October 17, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Monday morning we went for breakfast 🧇 (a last of many times) to the very good and traditional restaurant „Sasak“ before we took our „Grab“ 🚗 to Kuta. It was a very relaxed 2-hour drive - thanks to Charles (our driver). He explained much of the Indonesian culture and discussed the differences to Germany with us while we were driving. Charles was born and raised in Flores (another one of the many Indonesian islands). It is supposed to be a beautiful and still quite natural island 🏝️ far in the east. In contrast to other Indonesian islands it is the only one that is predominantly of Christian religion. I won’t have time to visit it during this trip but it’s probably something for the bucket list when I come next time to Indonesia 🇮🇩

    When we arrived in Kuta, we checked into our hostel. We had a nice 4 bedroom bungalow 🛖 with a cosy outside area in front. Soon after the check-in was done, Paula and I walked down the Main Street to Kuta beach and had a couple of beers while enjoying its view. Klara didn’t feel well 🤒 and therefore stayed in the hostel to meet us later for dinner.
    In the evening we opened the bottle of rum 🍹that I wisely bought in the duty free shop before my departure from Berlin Airport since alcohol is heavily taxed here in Indonesia 🇮🇩 (you will pay at least as much as in Germany 🇩🇪 or even more). Shout out to my Bali tourists at home for this fine recommendation 👍. So, with Coca Cola and a splash of lemon, we mixed our own cocktails that night. 😎

    Our second day in Kuta started very slow. We slept in for the first time since days and only left the hostel at lunchtime to rent some scooters 🛴 again. First we drove to Tanjung Ahn Beach 🏖️ which looked very beautiful from afar but on closer observation we realized the water was quite dirty (sadly it was polluted with many plastic parts or even entire bottles). I tried to go in once but I didn’t stay in the water for long. So, we just relaxed for a while on the beach loungers and enjoyed the sun and the good food that was served there. ☀️
    Afterwards, we took our scooters for another spin and drove to Bukit Merese - a lookout from where you can see more really nice looking beaches as well as many big waves 🌊 crashing against the rocky coastline. It was low tide and we were lucky to find a decently protected area that we used as our „private beach“ 🏖️ for a while. The water was soooo nice and clear. We could have stayed there much longer if it wasn’t for the sunset 🌅 and our unwillingness to cruise with our scooters 🛴 through the darkness.
    At night, we finished the bottle of rum from the day before together with a French girl who also stayed in our room. She had an accident with her scooter 🛴 and was in pain (in fact, she could barely walk). She certainly needed the drink more than we did after her horrible day. I believe we could cheer her up a little bit again that night. By now she must have seen a doctor and hopefully didn’t have to go to the hospital 🏥 For me this is a reminder while all this traveling and the adventurous things we do are fun, there is also a certain risk involved.

    The next day we were already on our way to the Gili Islands. It is quite touristy there and it has not much to do with the rest of Indonesia but I definitely wanted to go there to see what it is like and to go snorkelling 🤿
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