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Europe Summer 2023
  • Ella Balagula
  • Ella Balagula

Europe Summer 2023

Et 110-dags eventyr af Ella Læs mere
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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende
    The narrowest street

    Brasov

    2. august 2023, Rumænien ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We arrived to Braşov and for the next 4 days we were participating in the Transylvanian Tango marathon. No, the dancers were not vampires - indeed most Dracula legends are not true and are quite recent. Today, we took a bus to Braşov and in the afternoon I walked around. There is the main square with the fountain, the most narrow street in southern Europe (which is technically not a street but an escape route for the firefighters. And I saw the famous Braşov Hollywood sign on the nearby hill.Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende
    Organ concert in the fortified churchVlad the impaler, who was called Dracula because of his reputation of crueltyVlad the Impaler was born in the yellow houseBeautfiul monastery

    Fortified Saxon churches and Sighisoara

    5. august 2023, Rumænien ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    On Saturday, we decided to skip afternoon milonga and took a private tour to the nearby Saxon villages and the medieval city Sighisoara (pronounced Sigishvara). Apparently, the whole area used to be German or Saxon. In one of the fortified Saxon churches, there was an annual organ concert with a Swiss pianist which we really liked. Sighisoara was really beautiful and we saw the monument of Vlad the Impaler and the house where he was born. We finished the day with visiting the beautiful working monastery with many flowers.Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende

    Bran Castle - tour from Brasov

    7. august 2023, Rumænien ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    On Monday after the tango marathon, we went to a few hours private tour - first, stopping at the Rasnov citadel, which was under the renovation, so we couldn’t go inside, but we admired the views and the impressive side of the defensive construction. We then went to Bran castle, which is famous being “The Dracula Castle” but in fact has no association at all with Dracula or Vlad the Impaler. It was just a very beautiful castle and an interesting story of its ownership by the noble family. After returning to Braşov we also stopped by at the beautiful late 19 century synagogue that still functions today. In the evening, we took an overnight train to Budapest - even though it was quite basic compared to current fancy(ish) Russian trains, I absolutely loved it. There is something very magical about being rocked to sleep on the train!Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende
    Beautiful fountain made by one of two major porcelain factories
    The fountain made by the other porcelain factoryParlament buildingStreets are called Utkas! Natalies faforive wordStrudel lover is faced with the difficult choiceThe house of the father of the idea of independent Israel, Theodor HerzlThe only place you can see pulpit in a synagogueBudapest opera

    Budapest - Day 1 - Old City tour

    8. august 2023, Ungarn ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Upon arrival to Budapest, we went to a Budapest Walkative tour and learned about this fascinating part of a twin capital of Astro Hungarian empire, making many connections with Vienna history that we already learned! We finished the tour at the stunning Parlament building. Then we went to the second largest synagogue in the world, the appropriately called Grand Synagogue. Interestingly, the building is very unique. In order to try to compromise with the authorities of the 19 century that pushed Jews to assimilate, this synagogue has the pulpit for the sermons (not being used) and even organ! Creative Jews would hire non Jewish organ players to play on Shabbat, to avoid working on Shabbat. Franz List played there! To cap the evening, we were able to score one ticket to the sold out Rigoletto at the Budapest Opera and I went there!Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende
    A very popular Hungarian name, apparently!Castle HillThis oñd tavern is called Under the Red Hedgehog1

    Budapest Day 2 - Baths, and Buda Castle

    9. august 2023, Ungarn ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    In the morning we had delicious breakfast with the Eggs Imperial - salmon Benedict with trout caviar - delicious! Then I went to one of the Budapest famous thermal baths. The opulent baths located in one of the hotels are from 19 century are so big that even though there were lots of people, it didn’t feel crowded. Very relaxing me healing experience! In the afternoon, we went to Buda Castle Walkative tour, which took us around the castle hill, up many stairs and round gorgeous buildings. Afterwards, we walked back to the hotel, crossing Danube River with gorgeous views.Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende
    St Stephens organ
    St Stephens right hand - the fist is ckearly visibleMonument to War HeroesFake castleMonument to Raul Wallenberg who saved many Hungarian jews during HolocaustGrand SynagogueThe inside of one of fhe former apartment houses in Jewish quarterOne of the ruin bars in jewish quarterThe best gulyash is in Ghetto Gulyash in jewish quarterOutdoor milonga in Buda castle areaMilonga with this view!

    Budapest Day 3 - Jewish Tour

    10. august 2023, Ungarn ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Today, we started the morning by visiting St Stephens cathedral. The most important relic there is the right hand of St Stephen that survived from the 10th century and is prominently displayed! We then did a VoiceMap tour of one of Budapests most beautiful park. It started from the large monument to the war heroes which was dedicated to many various prominent figures. Then, it took us inside the park where there is a beautiful “fake” castle that was built for the 19th century exhibition in Budapest. In the afternoon, we took a Jewish Tour with Walkative, which took us around the Jewish quarter that now became the hippest area of Budapest, including famous “ruin bars” that are set in former glory of beautiful Jewish houses, which deteriorated during Soviet times and were never properly restored. In the evening, we gave Budapest a proper farewell by attending an outdoor milonga in Buda Castle area, with stunning view across the Danube River.Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende

    Plivitske Lakes

    11. august 2023, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    In the morning, we took a bus from Budapest to Zagreb. We then rented a car and drove to the famous Plivitske Lakes. It was very beautiful but, unfortunately, it was extremely crowded and hot, and we missed some of the most iconic and beautiful views because there was a huge line under the blazing sun to see them. Still, we have a nice walk around and enjoyed the lakes. We then drove to Split, and met Ilona and Roman for dinner!Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende

    Split tour and start of sailing

    12. august 2023, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We started the day by doing the VoiceMap tour of Split. It was very interesting to learn about the layers of history of this city, that dated back to the Roman Empire. We explored the palace of the Roman emperor Diocletian, who retired in Spilt, with many well preserved buildings and plazas and finished the tour in a beautiful seaside promenade. We then did all our provision shopping for the boat, met Natalie and Arthur there and started our voyage with the beautiful sunset sail!Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende
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    Sailing - Komiza

    13. august 2023, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    In the morning the very committed fitness enthusiasts did a workout on the deck. We then had breakfast, swam and sailed to a beautiful Komiza - a small town on one of the islands. In the afternoon, we walked around the narrow streets, and hiked up the hill to a beautiful church, surrounded by olive groves and vineyard terraces. We then returned to the boat and had delicious dinner of chevaps, accompanied by the freshly baked pita-like bread that we picked up in one of the waterfront restaurants. We then played a very fun game of Monikers with some very enthusiastic charade players!Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende

    Small fish restaurant on a little island

    14. august 2023, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We woke up and swam in the beautiful crystal clear water. We then sailed to the spot where we were able to go inside the bunker-like tunnel that was built during the Cold War for protecting the ships in case of attacks. Then there was more swimming, and some napping. On the early afternoon, we went to a small family-run fish restaurant to pick the fish that we would have for dinner! We met very friendly dog Nyushka who became our friend. Then, Igor, Ilona and Roman went to do a little hike inside the island where they picked up some wild rosemary. We then all went ashore for dinner and enjoyed delicious food, and lovely atmosphere. We capped the evening with a few rounds of bananagrams!Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende
    Our resident Yental!

    Hvar town

    15. august 2023, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    What a gorgeous day! We swam in the morning in the beautiful lagoon, facing the “Nyushka island”. We then arrived to Hvar and stayed outside of the main harbor. We took a speed boat (with horse-like seats) to the Hvar town harbor. We walked around the beautiful town with its winding streets and endless staircases. We then walked up to the citadel and enjoyed a gorgeous view from the top. We then had a fabulous dinner and walked around the harbor admiring some mega yachts. Curiously, one yacht, had MIT sign in it. We wanted to pay the visit, but decided to take a picture of the three MIT/Sloan alums in our party! Finally, we walked along the shore to a famous Hula Hula club and enjoyed the ambiance a bit!Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende
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    Stary Grad on Hvar island with Peka meal

    16. august 2023, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We swam in the morning and then went to explore a smaller town on Hvar island. We took a speed boat again and wondered around the town and went into a beautiful former palace - it had a beautiful pool and many poetic expressions carved around the place. We came back with a beautiful sunset and then went onshore in a small lagoon where we had a traditional Peka dinner. Apparently, the food is being cooked on a very low heat, for a long time. A very memorable dinner! A beautiful mega yacht park nearby and after dinner, some of us indulged in binocular observation of life on that yacht…Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende

    Small dacha-like Hvar town

    17. august 2023, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Today we, of course, swam some more in the morning, and Ilona and Roman made amazing sirniki for breakfast! We then went to a small town on Hvar island, which had an amazing ambiance of a slow and languishing summer holiday place. We climbed a beautiful bell tower in a church and took pictures of stunning sunset. We then went in the evening to see a local folklore show of traditional singing and dancing! Unfortunately, Arthur and Natalie had a bit of a stomach bug and did not join us for the concert.Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende

    Last day of sailing and Trogir

    18. august 2023, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Today we departed Hvar and sailed back to Split, because Arthur and Natalie, who mostly kicked their stomach bug, had to fly to London. We sailed (actually just drove, as we only sailed once for an hour, over the entire trip, due to weak winds) for a few hours, while we all mostly napped. The wind was quite strong and the sea was a bit choppy. We arrived to Split, said goodbye to Natalie and Arthur, and the Roman, Ilona and I went for a nice swim near the Marina. It was actually the only sandy beach we have seen in the whole week! We then took a taxi to Trogir, which is an old medieval town on a small island right next to Split, 10 min from the Marina. We wandered narrow streets and beautiful squares and climbed the bell tower for great views and a close up encounter with the huge bells. We then had delicious dinner at a Michelin recommended restaurant (begged our way in, without reservation)!Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende

    Krka national park

    19. august 2023, Kroatien ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Today, we slept out last night on the boat, and after a quick breakfast, we said goodbye to our beautiful home for the week. The four of us then rented a car, and drove to the Krka National Park to see some beautiful waterfalls. We walked on the wooden platforms across the place, and enjoyed some beautiful views. It was crowded, but not nearly as pack as Plivitske Lakes. It was a lovely day - we then dropped off Ilona and Roman at the airport for their flight back, and drove to Zagreb for our early morning flight. What a fantastic sailing week!Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende
    Cute chubby dog sleepinb in fring of Hagya Sofia mosque
    Best baklava everDome of the Blue MosqueBlue mosqueHagya Sofia from a distanceGrand bazarCrescent moon over the Blue Mosque

    Istanbul - old city tour

    21. august 2023, Tyrkiet ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    We flew from Zagreb to Istanbul and walked around a bit in the old city and getting some delicious baklava from the 1841 shop that is still buzzing! In the morning v the next day, we went to the free walking tour of Old City through Walkative. We walked around tbe Grand Bazar and went inside the Blue Mosque which was built in the 17 century. It is an active mosque near the interior, with the blue mosaics and magnificent dome, is breathtaking. The tour was a bit crowded and it was extremely hot, but we still really enjoyed it.Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende
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    1Book marketIstanbul UniversityOld wooden housesSuleyman mosqueOutside of the Suleyman mosqueBeiatifuk view over the BosphorusBlue mosqueHammam

    Alternative Istanbul walking tour

    22. august 2023, Tyrkiet ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    In the morning we went to Hagya Sofia. It’s an absolutely incredible 11th century mosque, which was originally built as a Byzantine church, then renovated into the mosque by the Ottomans. During the last century it was a museum, and just in 2020 it was opened as a mosque again. What an incredible story of a millennia! It’s dome is not supported by any visible columns (they are hidden in the corners) and appears to be floating. In the afternoon, we went on the Alternative Istanbul Walkative tour. We first stopped by the large open air book market, then walked by the Istanbul University and ended in the 17th century Suleyman mosque - another stunningly beautiful architecture and interior. In the evening, I went back to the Blue Mosque again and did a quick VoiceMap tour and then spent a wonderful hour in the 17th century hammam!Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende
    This shirt had protective Qaran verses written on it ti be worn under the armor in the battles
    Richly decorated kaftanView from the palaceMoses' staffFootprint of prophet MohammadAbraham's potHear from the prophet Mohammad beardGalata towerMany weddings around fhe towerWashing before the daily prayerWooden houses in the Jewish quarterView over the Galata bridge

    Topkapi Palace and Galata tour

    23. august 2023, Tyrkiet ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    This morning, we went to the Topkapi palace where the sultans lived. Most of the building in the palace Freire life of the sultans and are museum of clothing, kitchen accessories and a treasury. Fascinatingly, the treasury had some peculiar and questionable authenticity artifacts, that were gifts to the sultan, such as Moses’ walking stick, Abraham’s cooking pot (!!) and multiple hairs from the Prophet Mohammad beard! There is also a beautiful harem, which is a maze of narrow passages. In the afternoon, I went to do the VoiceMap Galata tour, that took me around different angles of the Galata tour, which was built by the Genovese when Istanbul was under their rule.Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende
    The main shopping street of Istanbul - traffic free area.
    Beautuful synagogueBig flagpost on the hill in the Asian sideDelicious yogurt with honeyBeautiful street scene

    Istanbul - Asian side Kadikoy

    24. august 2023, Tyrkiet ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We first went to the Jewish museum inside the active synagogue. There are over 20,000 Jewish in Istanbul now and there are some active synagogue still. The sultans were very favorable to the many Jewish refugees that were coming from Spain and Portugal after they were expelled. There is a small bug very interesting museum explaining the role of Turkish Jews in many areas of country’s development. We then took a taxi across the Bosporus to the Asian side and did an interesting VoiceMap tour of the Kadikoy area - many small markets, residential streets and interesting street art.Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende

    Last day in Istanbul

    25. august 2023, Tyrkiet ⋅ 🌬 30 °C

    Today we had a long lunch with Gulsun - it was so great to catch up with her. Last time I saw her 15 years ago when we were last in Istanbul, but with some people, you don’t miss a beat even being apart for decades! We then went to one last milonga (our fifth one in Istanbul!) and took a very early flight to Tashkent the next morningLæs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende

    Tashkent

    26. august 2023, Usbekistan ⋅ 🌙 31 °C

    We spent an afternoon in Tashkent, as our transition point. We went to one of the beautiful parks, and rode Tashkent metro. The stations built during the Soviet times are stunning - each decorated in a different theme. We then had delicious dinner at Afsona, tasting our first plov and manti of the Central Asian trip!Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende
    Open air part of the mosques called aivan
    First introduction to tbe gorgeous blue mayelica tiles of UzbekistanInterestingly, there is a small Mennonite museum of the once large amish population hereOld mosque with 280 wooden columnsDinner on the rooftop terrace

    Uzbekistan - Khiva

    27. august 2023, Usbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We took a very early morning flight from Tashkent to Urgench and then a 40 min taxi ride to Khiva. There, we met our guide and spent a few hours walking the old town. Khiva was a very very old town, but it was mostly destroyed in 13th century by Gingis Khan during the Mongol invasion. It was then rebuilt in the 18th century. There are city walls that are made of mud and straw and they get updated almost every year as they are very vulnerable to the elements. We saw many Medresses which were Islam religious schools for boys. And we even saw one still functioning medresses where one can study to become an imam. In the evening we had a wonderful dinner on a rooftop terrace overlooking the old town.Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende
    Lone train in the dessert
    Caravansaray where we had dinnerOne of many hand carved beautiful Bukhara doorsLively Lyabi Havuz squareStatue of Hodja Nassredin - local equivalent of Robin Hood. His stories were very popular in USSR

    Arriving to Bukhara

    28. august 2023, Usbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We departed Khiva early in the morning and rode for 7 hours in the car across the dessert to Bukhara. Once in Bukhara, we walked around the main square centered around the Lyabi Havuz, or main 17th century pool which people used to wash and drink. We had dinner at Joy lounge which is based in the former caravansaray - or guesthouses that were used by the tired caravans traveling the old Silk Route.Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende
    Absolutely stunning mayelica tileworkThe Ark - citadel of the Emirs10th century Mausoleum of the Simonides with incredible brick patternsVarious brick patternsMarionets in the puppet workshop10th century Minaret with the incredible brick workHammam that I went toOur room in the 17th century jewish merchant house

    Bukhara

    29. august 2023, Usbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Today we took a 5 hour walking tour around the old city of Bukhara. It was quite incredible to learn about the layers of history. Bukhara is very old town in the Sill Route but only three buildings remain from the 10th century because the rest of the city was completely destroyed by Gingis Khan. Then the city was rebuilt during Amir Timur times in 15th century. The last emir was in early 20th century - he ran away from the Bolsheviks to Afghanistan. There are many stunning Medresses but also some uniquely gorgeous minaret and mausoleum made from the bricks, with different brick patterns. Old city is so beautiful with the labyrinth of narrow streets and a large Jewish quarter. Sadly, most Bukhara Jews left in the 90s. There is one synagogue bug it was closed. In the evening I went to the hammam, and took pictures of the minaret and Medresses in the dark.Læs mere

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  • Ella BalagulaEurope Summer 2023Rejsende
    A quick breakfast photoshoog in a traditional costume in our hotel breakfast restaurant
    Decorations in the emir's summer residenceThe emir's palace had peacocks brought from Iran, wnd they still procreate and florishInteresting decorations - stars of david were commonly and freely used as Islam saw David as KingGraves in the Chor Bakr necropolisMosque as part of the necropolis complexBukhara central train station from the Soviet timesMajestic RegistanEvery square inch is covered by the tile work

    Outside of Bukhara; Registan at night

    30. august 2023, Usbekistan ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    In the morning, we took a taxi to the summer residence of the last emir. It was a very beautiful “dacha” with exquisite decorations and lavish displays of the many gifts that emir received from various emissaries. We then went to another interesting site - a necropolis of many 10th century graves of the prophet Mohammed relatives, named Chor Bakr. It was a very quiet and peaceful place, and our guide, a local woman, displayed reverence over this sacred place. After the tour, we left to the train station and took a high speed train to Samarkand. We arrived to Samarkand in the evening, and stayed right next to its main square, the Registan. We went to see the three Medresses of this square in the dark, and enjoyed the music and light show of traditional songs, with the colorful lights dancing across the majestic buildings.Læs mere

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