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mange, tu aimes
  • chantal mueller
  • chantal mueller

mange, tu aimes

my parents and me in russia Leggi altro
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  • Inizio del viaggio
    30 giugno 2019
    chantal muellermange, tu aimeschantal mueller

    one day to go

    30 giugno 2019, Svizzera ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Lucky me! I am once again one night before an adventure. This time it is Russia with my parents. Russia! With my parents!! So exciting. We will first spend a couple of days in St. Petersburg, then another four nights in Moscow. My dad will fly back to Switzerland and mum and me will fly to Petropavlovsk. It is (with a European view on the world) very very very very very far away and we will do a trekking together. I am so looking forward to it!
    I worked the whole day, I am exhausted and of course I hadn’t packed a thing before work so I did it just now. My luggage is so light and very modest I wonder if I forgot something essential. Anyway, now off for some sleep.    Leggi altro

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  • chantal muellermange, tu aimeschantal mueller

    off we go!

    1 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    The alarm clock went off at 4:30am. Waaaay too early - but if it is for catching a plane, nothing is too early. My parents picked me up first, then my big brother, he would take care of the car after dropping us off. We changed to the train in Bern and had coffee and croissant during the journey. Traveling to the airport is such a good thing. In Zurich we quickly got rid of the luggage (I had 10.5kg, my mum 22kg - now I am seriously wondering. But firstly she has my sleeping bag and secondly, if I have forgotten something, I am quite positive that mum will have thought of it.) After security my mum missed her cellphone. Uiuiui. A little bit panic at the aeroport. We quickly figured out that dad didn’t take it out of the basket because he didn’t know it was in there and he couldn’t have seen it not knowing. Anyway, we found it under a pile of other baskets and we were all happy again. The flight was delayed but we had some wind support so we arrived on time in St. Petersburg. Security was unspectacular and we were out quickly but no one in sight to pick us up. There was actually a guy waiting for a Sonia I dont remember how and then somehow that same guy after maybe 15-20min looked up his sheets, fumbled around and changed them for Mueller. Hahaha, very funny. We arrived at the (yes, I know) SwissStar Hotel, a very little, very cute Hotel run by a Russian Woman speaking very well German. After a change of clothes we started walking and we were surprised by the lovely weather and the nice temperatures. And what a beauty that city is. We had some russian sweets, a drink on a boat and a wonderful diner with dishes that were delicious but I forgot the names already and it is just wonderful!
    Oh and yes, I agree, concerning the selfie, there is potential for improving especially in not cutting half my dads head out.    Leggi altro

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  • chantal muellermange, tu aimeschantal mueller

    peterhof - human craziness

    2 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We started our day at 10 with Nadia picking us up. She is a beautiful, lovely woman from Saint Petersburg and we are lucky to have her as our guide for the next three days. We first took the Metro, the subway, the tickets are coins, I like that. You could, if wanted, stay at the Metro the whole day with a single coin. Then we continued by bus to Peterhof. It is a beautiful palace with a big garden. And a lot of other tourists. I mean really a lot. There was a long queue and since we are a small group, Nadia asked if we could overtake them and be faster then the bigger groups. We were allowed but that was not at all appreciated by some. Then we had to wait as well to give the backpack to the locker room. I don’t know but I think everyone would organize that differently. Bit it wasn’t so the line was long with people going the same way, four times in total, to get rid of the bag and to get it back. It was so crowded. Uiuiuiui, I think while waiting you can see the true character of people. At some point there was a guy that said out loud ‘now it is enough’ and just pushed forward. As if that makes it going faster. At least there was no panic and luckily most people are patient. The palace itself was beautiful, incredible what they built and rebuilt, since the whole building was distroyed after WWII. After the visit we went through the garden and then back to the city by Tragflügelboat, a boat that if it is fast gets somehow out of the water. We were really lucky with the weather since they announced rain but we had sun. So after saying byebye to Nadia we went for a coffee in a lovely café and then we took the Metro to Begovaya. Irina, our host told us that there is a beach where people from the city go to to relax. So we went there, enjoyed a walk at the seaside and crossed a pedestrian bridge to the new Gazprom Stadium of Zenit Saint Petersburg (we think). We crossed another park and then we were at an attraction parks. There were some attractions and some nope-attraction. Really, one was a Kettenkarussell like they have in Vienna just way worse. So nope. We enjoyed another coffee and some icecream and watched the nope-attraction in the evening sun. We headed back to the Metro station near our hotel and had diner at Teremok, a fastfood company with Russian food, recommened by Nadia. It was nice but not comparable to yesterday. Yesterdays food was yammy, I want to go there again. Tomorrow the Ermitage awaits us together with a whole lot of tourists, I am looking forward to it - and I mean it, observing human behavior when a situation is unpleasant but purely harmless is golden.
    Oh and no selfie today. We are just failing completely at that but it is big fun and they are so funny. I try to convince my parents that I can post them here.    Leggi altro

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    hermitage

    3 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    What can I say. The day was again perfect: We were pickedup againby lovely Nadja (with a ‘j’), the best guide there is. We went straight to the Hermitage where we would spend the morning at. We could again skip the line although we wouldn’t have mind to wait since the sun was out even if there was rain announced. We were quite quickly inside this beautiful building, respectively buildings, there are five and they are all connected and you can cross them by going from one room to another. Nadja guided us safely through the labyrinth and the mass of people. We learned about art and the building. After 2.5h we were ready for some coffee and Nadja showed as a café at the Institut français in a backyard of the mainstreet. Perfect. After a croissant we said our goodbyes for the day and went to the Peter & Paul Festung from where that marvelous city was founded. We had icecream at some point, I put my feet into the Neva river and we were still enjoying the beautiful weather. The golden roofs look just a bit better under the sun. Just before we got home rain started - we didn’t mind, had a nap at the hotel and went out for some Italian food. It was deliciously delicious. Really mouthwatering good. And so went another day here in Saint Petersburg. I am so grateful to spend that journey with my parents. They are so lovely and we have such a good time. Unforgettable.Leggi altro

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    golden

    4 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    So the Russian know how to show off. Really. We were at the Katharina palace today in Puschkin. And again the golden roofs were shining under the sun, it looks like out of a Disney movie. We started the day a bit lazy since we had the excursion only at 3pm. We went for a walk in direction of the Isaac Cathedral. We decided not to visit and rather walk around. Nadja recommended New Holland, an island with stores and a garden and café and a lot of art. The visit was worth it, then I found a café called ‘The Idiot’, very appealing but actually named after the novel of Dostoevsky. We went there for coffee but had a lunch not before cuddling a incredibly fluffy and big cat. The grumpiness of the picture is not representative. We went back to the hotel and then with Nadja to Puschkin, named after the guy, that founded the first school for nobel boys. Until then they were homeschooled. There is also the Palace of Katharina. Another Prunk-building rebuilt after the war and just a thing out of a book. Really. So beautiful. And so much gold. The visit was pleasant. There was a long line waiting to visit the different rooms, we were close to a Taiwanese group and some schoolkids, teenagers, from Russia. At some point they started to interact, a Taiwanese guy giving them some essential oils to smell and put at special places on the face and the hand. Big fun and laughter so the waiting was over quickly. We soon had to say goodbye to Nadja, unfortunately. What a cool woman. I liked her right away.
    I looked up another restaurant, typical Georgian, it seems to be very trendy in Russia these days. That Restaurant had 8 reviews on google, all in Russian and apparently good. So I suggested that one to them, they are really cool and open for such things. And we had a feast. Communication was improvised but at the end we went home with another delicious meal in our tummies and lots of great memories in our hearts.    Leggi altro

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    moscow!

    5 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Last morning in Saint Petersburg. We all really loved that city. We went out for a walk, had another coffee in the French Café, I got myself a Gadget in the ‘Pont Rouge’ mall, a very fancy thing. I wanted to have a look at the floor with only Russian Designers, but that floor with three others (out of seven) were empty. I had then a designer thing from Italy which will stand on my nightstand and always remind me to those wonderful days. We had a cab for the trainstation at 1:30pm, arrived at 2pm at the trainstation and we were in the train to Moscow at 2:30pm. Wonderful train, even more as the weather was really wet and sitting in the train for the next four hours was just wonderful plan. At some point we had coffee and some lunch and quickly we arrived in Moscow. The ipad of the lovely man picking us up showed our names this time from the beginning and he brought us to the hostel. From there I found a Restaurant that appealed to me with the name, I read some reviews and off we were. Wow, I guess i have to stop mentioning the food and how good it is but - poah, so so good! Only next time we will skip the one dessert with estragon in it. A taste not used to in sweets - otherwise? Perfect! Tomorrow we will explore that big city with another guide and i have to hurry up, meeting with my parents is at 8:30 already, looking forward to it!Leggi altro

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    so much history

    6 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Moscow! First challenge was to find a breakfast place in the morning since we are staying at a Hostel (my parents feel just a couple of years younger now). We succeeded and had like half liter of cappuccino to start the day with. Tomorrow we’ll try to order less. Many do not speak at all or only just a little bit of English, also the young people even if they learn English at school. Anyway, we were picked up at 10 from Milena (I think. It is so embarassing when you forget the name along the day and then it is so awkard to ask for it again....). She is very interesting and smart, she studied economics and was in the team that had to organize the voucher-system for privatization all the goods in the former UDSSR after the end of it. So interesting. We went first underground and had a look at different metro stations then we went up again, walked Arbat street and she told us a lot about buildings, architecture and politics. That city is packed with history, i have a similar feeling being in Berlin. We then entered the Kreml, a city in the city. Again we were lucky with the weather and the amount of people. The biggest number of other tourists are Chinese btw. We ended today’s guided tour on the Red Square, which isn’t red but named like that because red is similar to beautiful in Russian. If I undestood it correctly they have the same word root. Again, sitting there and just watching that place is amazing. If walls could speak, right? There is also the Lenin Mausoleum and the grave of Stalin. Otherwise portraits of him (many of them were in mosaics or other pictures of the metro stations) were replaced by different sujets. We decided to walk back to our hostel, had the obligatory coffee on the way and also a bit rain just as we arrived at the hostel. Perfect.Leggi altro

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    time flies

    7 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We were confused since for the first time we had to be ready at 9am instead of 10am. But we managed and were picked up by a private driver and Marina (I asked 😊). The drive out of the city to the monastery was quick and we could visit that holy place for the orthodox believers. We laerned some more about religion, walked around and had lunch in a touristy russian restaurant that looked like a puppet house. First they had a table for three and one just for Marina so we asked to put the tables together, no way she would eat alone. And she didn’t want to, it isn’t like in Nepal, where the guides leave you alone for eating. So we had a long and interesting discussion about how politics work in Switzerland. She was amazed about the possibility we have as citizen and I realized again, how lucky I am. At some point she asked: And the result of the counting is correct? We Swiss have sometimes just no idea in which paradise we live in. When we told her that at the last vote of our district we had only 1/4 of the person who have the right to vote went indeed voting, I was almost a bit ashamed of us Swiss just not using our rights more.
    On the way back to Moscow we had traffic jam since many were heading back to the city after a weekend at the dacha, which are little houses in the country side. Moscow is huge. It has almost 13mio people, roughly every 10th Russian is living here.
    After saying our goodbyes to Marina we went visiting the Gulag Museum. Worth a visit. It is very well made, it starts with a exhibition of 16 original doors, some from prison, some from ministry buildings, some from citizens that were deported. It makes quite an impact. We learned a lot about those correction and forced labour camps that started under Lenin just after the Revolution in 1918 and had their peak under Stalin until the end of the fifties. That is just such a long time, I wasn’t aware of it. Some were convincted several times, some just after the revolution and then again some years later (if you survive the camp, there was in general a mortality of roughly 15%, at peaks up to 35%) but in the end, under Stalin, most of them were just convicted for 25 years. 25 years. Unbelievable the fear they had to live with next to all other difficulties they had during those hard time.    Leggi altro

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    round we go

    8 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Today’s highlight was a short break for something to eat at a trainstation called Kiev where suddenly the russian anthem was pouring out of loudspeaker and the fountain in the front was doing a little ballet to the music. Crazy. Otherwise we walked around Moscow in a nice circle of a lot of km and explored another metro station. We found a beautiful little café, had nice weather, discovered a lot and were just blissfully happy to spend time together.Leggi altro

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    one way, two cars

    9 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Last day with dad in Russia! We met fir breakfast at 9 again and went in a little fancy coffee shop where we had the best croissant in Moscow so far. Since I let the soles of my trekking shoes at home we went for a hunt. We found some in a Pharmacy just next to the café but didn’t buy them right away for carrying reason and we want to have a look if there are some other ones. We headed again for the centre, we checked for soles in other pharmacies, they had the same one, just 300 Rubel more expensive. So it was clear for me where to get them. Our goal for today was a park just next to the red square. It is just at the Moskva river and beautifully designed. We enjoyed again the sun there and eachothers company. We ordered the cab for 13:30h to have enough time at the airport. A not at all talkative driver picked us up and were on our way to the airport. On a kind of highway with four lanes our driver got slower and then stopped- and told us he had a problem. Obviously. Hahaha, that was funny and also a bit dangerous since we were in the middle of the road. After maybe 20min another guy in a black car without any cab sign came and we transferred our bags on that busy road. Everything went well and we were on time at the airport. Since dad was at another terminal we had to split there already. That was not so easy especially for my parents, they haven’t been away for so long for years. It is wonderful to see your parents get along so well. Now it was just my mum and me and we had to drop our luggage at the oversized counter, not because of the size but the shape of it. We did that, went through security, had another coffee and waited with some other couple of hundreds passenger to go to the far east. Let the adventure begin!Leggi altro

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    so so so so far away

    10 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Somehow I feel like yesterday and today are one same day since we flew away from the night and landed at around 10 at the airport of Kamchatka. It is a tiny airport. There is just one baggage claim roll-thing and logistically I can say there is potential for doing better. We were expected by Christina, one of our translater for the trek, together with Matthias and Walter I (there will be 2 Walters, 2 Martins and almost 2 Christine/a). We are 15 in total and only 10 of then have their luggage, two are Austrian, one is Australian, three German and the rest is Swiss. We all came from different directions and somehow luggage got lost in translation. Hopefully it will be here tomorrow for everyone. Otherwise mum and me fighted successfully the jetlag and we are now in bed. Petropavlosk is along a 24km bay at the sea. Not the prettiest city and the amount of Maibach seen here is zero (my dad said yesterday that the density of Maibachs in Moscow is as how as the density of Subarus in the Canton of Uri). We booked spontaneously a helicopter flight to Geysirs and this is actually so exciting but I am a bit too tired so excitement will come tomorrow. But all in all, I almost can’t believe I am here. Yippee!!!Leggi altro

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    fudleblutt wahnsinn

    11 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We were picked up for the helicopter trip at around 8:15 and we were driving to a little airport. There we checked in, got a tag (number 423) and waited for our call. There were approximately 10 helicopters at the base waiting for us tourists. Then it was our turn. I’ve never been in a helicopter before so it was exciting! We were all seated vis-à-vis on a bench with the back to the windows, had a seatbelt and ear protections - and off we were! Luckily we had somehow good weather so we were able to fly. First we overflow the city, then some green, forests and soon came the volcanic fields. What a sight. And then the first highlight, the volcano with the phreatic eruption. So so cool! We were so close up and the view was just stunning. It didn’t end here, we flew to the next valcano with a acid lake, turquoise. Unbelievable. After 1:40min flight we landed in the valley of the geysir where we had a walk on wooden planks, very well made. We saw a lot of mud holes and one big geysir, that one was even more impressive then the one I saw in New Zealand. After more then an hour there we were in the helicopter again and were flown to another plateau which was once a volcano and now a potburrie of chemistry. Beautiful colors, cute mud holes but then! Then the highlight of the highlight of the highlights of all highlights: A mother bear with two cubs. Oh my dear was that cute! I could now explain how cute and everything, but I won’t because I won’t stop. We said good bye to that overly cute sight and took again the helicopter to the hot springs, where we had a bath and lunch. Then we flew back to the airport. That whole excursion was expensive but worth every single penny - or rubel. We flew more then 2.5h and saw many things, we were all ecstatic. Diner was delicious and off we went to bed for the adventure tomorrow!Leggi altro

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    russian sauna after long drive

    12 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    8:50 rdv in front of the hotel. The big truck waited already and under steady rain our luggage was fixed on the roof of that monster truck. After some time we were tucked in and we drove off. With us a driver, a cook, Christina and Anja for translation and Vitaly, our chief master. During the drive he explained about the history of Kamtchatka, why esrthquake, how many volcanos (there are more then 200, 29 or 30 of them active, more on the eastern range then the western range (there onyl two)). First stop was in Miloko, a town 300km north of Petropalovsk, famous for pies. We had coffee and mum and I got a pie (oh, a rime 😊) for later. We continued our journey north until we had lunch around 2pm. We walked a bit around in town, we were five of us. I bought four apples and the guy gestures around and I had no clue until I understood that he tried to tell me that I hadn’t bought enough for all of us! Of course I couldn’t explain why not five but it was funny. By the way our group is very fun and we have a nice dynamic aready. The third stop was just very short and the fourth one at Kamtchatka river where they built a bridge over it in 2011 only, before it was a feeey in summer and in winter - no cars. If needed helicopter. We arrived at around 7:30 in a cute little village in a guesthouse with even cuter little houses for two and a russian sauna. Perfect. Afrer a walk we went seating for a round until the delicious diner was ready. We had a debriefing from Vitaly and we stayed for quite some togehter talking. I was tonight with Karin, Laura, Marcel and Walter, the latter is Swiss, has seen the world trough job and travel, for example he did Panamerica in 2.5years in the early 80ies, Galapagos included. Very cool! Now it is 11:30pm, alarmclock goes at seven for another long journey into the national park near the first volcano we wanna climb! I am so lucky!Leggi altro

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    magna, lava and co.

    13 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    After a delicious breakfast from Melissa we started at 9:20 in direction to the valcona. I guess at some point I will know the names. We are lucky, Marcel is very interested in them and explains a lot. Fir example what the difference between lava and magna is (lava is the outside-of-the-volcano-magna, more or less). We quickly left the good road to a bumpy one. It was very funny sitting in the wheels since bumpy is in another dimension there. We stopped at a lava-river from the eruption of 2011 that distroyed the road so instead of taking one if a couple of kilometers we had ten to do. But thanks to the good driver we had no problems at all. Lunch was on a ash field, very delicious and not under the rain, very cool. We arrived at our campside at around three-ish, we were shown of how to set up the tents (no rain!!!) and quickly we were about to get ourselves at home here for the next four nights. The tents are quite small, the big bags having a bit worries to fit in. Luckily there are three blockhouses that are a kitchen and a diner room at the same time where we can also leave the luggage. Perfect. We went for a quick walk where Vasily explained us more about the eruption of 1975. It took place in november and since there was a blizzard people here didn’t figure out what was going on. The magna also didn’t came out of the volcano like we would expect but found a way underground and came out twice of the ground, we will have a look there tomorrow. At one place the whole thing needed 72 days and at the other more then 470 days to cool down. Back at the camp we had tea, then diner and a briefing for tomorrow. We gonna visit the dead forest, the four cones that were formed at the eruption of 1975 and into some caves. Exciting!Leggi altro

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    hot stones

    14 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    What a day. Again. The sunshine greeted us and the viee was splendid. It reminded me of Bhutan when it was the same situation. How lucky we were. Before breakfast mum and me quickly went home the small hill and had a gorgeous view of the surroundings. After a delicious breakfast we started with our monster truck in direction of the cones where the magna erupted from the 1975 eruption. We climbed it up and the colors were amazing. Vitaly explained a lot, he knows heaps about volcanos here. The scientist could predict the 75’s eruption a couple of days before so they could evacuate the village around. The ground up there is still hot, if you dig a bit deeper it is too hot to touch. Amazing, this after more then 40 years! After getting down again we had a delicious lunch and we continued to the dead forest, a forest that was covered with up to 20m ashes. The trees died because of the toxic air and they stick out as dried wood. At some places where the ashes weren’t that high the nature has taken slowly over already. Again impressive sight. Next station was a lava cave, also incredible. You have again this feeling of being a insignificant little blup in the big big universe imagining those forces that shows at such an eruption. I talked about that with Tony, the Australian. He is a vet and now does food for exotic animals. Very interesting. He teached me about animal poo, the different kind. In case you find poo that is white and there is fur inside it is from an animal that is obligatory carnivore. He also found an ulna of a little aninal, we supposed those were the little ground squirrel. He also showed some moose poo, that one is very light and has just fibers in them. Again, learnt a lot and poo is very informative! We ended the day with a debriefing about tomorrow, the ascent on the first volcano that will be probably in the snow. So we hope for sun and some dry feet!Leggi altro

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    snow. a heck of a lot of snow.

    15 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    I can’t start again with what a day but it just seems so appropriated! We were punctual at breakfast for porridge (a salty one, not everyone’s taste, mine it was) and even more ponctual to drive to our starting point. Vitaly said it will be a long, hard day and he was right - but also an incredible fabulous one, shared with my mum was so special. The way up eas quickly through a snow field and those would be THE thing of the day. We crossed a huge lava field from 1975s eruption. Our group was, not surprising, a bit separated by the faster and the less faster. At some point we split and up we were those snow fields. They were a bit of a pain because you would break in until the knees or more quite randomly but hey, we had sun, it was a beautiful view and just wow! Additionally the nearer we were on the top, the wind came and blew my mum teice on the ground. All in all we made it almost all of us, two had to turn back earlier but still, very impressive. Up Talbačik is a huge crater with a depth of a couple of hundred meter. As it is often on top of things, they are not the most comfortable places to be so we startes the ascent. With the sun comes also melty snow and we were just even more breaking through and some of us really got to their personal physical limits. At some point it was real big fun because you could slide down the hill. Awesome. All in all we had a good group spirit and we made it down all safely and very happy. Back at the camp awaited us a delicious diner with sushi and a home made special fish soup from Larissa. I was lucky to eat my mums since she doesn’t like it. My mum rocked today. Completely. We walked 24km in total with an ascent of 1400m and with all those snowfields up and down it was even a bigger effort. Very very cool!Leggi altro

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    toasted

    16 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Having three days in a row sunny weather is unusual for here - we are a lucky bunch of people! After that day yesterday we slept in until 8:20, breakfast was at nine and around 10 we started for another trip to lava from 2012s eruption. It was again a splendid day with a lot of laughter, interesting conversations and heaps of information about volcanos. It is so sweet, Anja, one of the translator, has just been working for the company for some days and all information about volcanoes and the eruption she gets from Vitaly (pronouncements is on the ‘a’ not the ‘y’, second last vocal is pronounced in Russian) Anaway, all she has to translate is new for her, too, and she is very amazed and fascinated like we are and that is so good to see. She listens attentively and then says, oh wow, interesting and then translates. It is so co to see that also our guides have fun. Vitaly is amazing and takes very good care of us, showing us spontaneously alternative routes to go down one of the cones. He never could have done it before with tourists because of weather. We went also to a spot on the lava field where you could see lava two years ago. Nowadays it is still hot enough to toast some bread. Delicious. We only were out for three, four hours, enjoying those amazing views. We went in another gave under the lava, where the magna made is way out and became lava, too. Fascinating the different colors of rocks, those formations, the different weight of the stones. I can understand why studying volcanology. Back at the camp we had lunch and then we were sitting around, talking and then again having diner. Larissa is one amazing cook. I was seated next to Tony, the vet who specialized in birds. The most common disease birds have in Australia is Chlamydia. Not the one that is sexually transmitted that I know in humans but a genotype that birds have and is transmitted from bird to human (or bird to bird) per aerosol, tiny little particles in the air, and treated by doxycycline. Tomorrow we have gonna spend the morning in the car on the way to Esso. There we are looking forward to a shower before having another five nights in the tents and three volcanos to climb up! Lucky me!Leggi altro

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    esso, where the shower is

    17 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Today’s plan was to leave between 8 and 8:30 for a long drive to Esso. We got up at around six, were allvery efficient with helping eachother bringing down the tents so that we were all set for breakfast even before seven. Again incredible what Larissa prepares for our meals. We run out of milk and cream but if that is our only problem then we gladly take it. We said goodbye to that wonderful landscape and went off the bumpy roads. Lunchtime was in a dried river bed where not so many mosquitoes come for lunch, too. Those tiny things are incredible. If you go for a pee into the woods you have stinges all
    over places you definitely don’t want them to have. Men having the same problem, btw. We arrived in Esso quite early after sveryone fell alseep in the truck after lunch. We had two hours before visiting the Ethnographic Museum and the Concert so we first enjoyed a shower, then a bath in the hot swimming pool and my mum was so kind and did laundry. The water of the washed socks needed three times changing. We took a lot of volcanic ashes with us. We strolled through the little village of Esso with 2000 habitants. It had electricity from hydra station and lots of warm water from hot springs. There are metal tubes in the bathroom for heating,
    you can’t touch them so hot they are and they hest uo the whole room. They are excellent in winter and of course for laundry but less appreciated when it is 28 degrees outside! The ethnographic Museum is a outdoor one with houses of the indigenous people. They have almost the same equipment and way of life like the Inuit - of course there was a lot of trading between all of those tribes. Interestingly some already during their life made their funeral dress with a hoodie on and when they died the hood was places on the face. There had also shamans, the last one lived until the 60ies. Of course they were forbidden during the Soviets. Nowadays only a couple of hundred people are indigenous. Their history was like the polynesians told and not written so a lot was lost during the time. After the Museum we went to a hall (not before some of us filled up their beer proviants for the next days) where we had e exclusive concert of a group called Nulgur (I think. I will look it up in the book, but we are at the moment in the bus to the snow valley and Christine, the owner of the book, is sleeping next to me. We are driving through very very dense forest, it is beautiful). Anyway, that concert and dance was magical. They showed us dances from different indigenous tribes, like the dance of the seagulls, the salmon, the reindeer. Oh, about animals, there are raindeers, moose (biggest animal in Kamtchatka with 1 ton), brown bear, wolverines (Vielfrass), Zobel (or something like that. They call it here the soft gold because if its precious fur. Btw, the whole leather making process was a womans job), lots of birds and fishes. The spectacle went for an hour and we returned to the hotel for a good nights sleep in the bed. I was so happy because for the first time here in Kamtchatka I felt really 100% good since I had a nasty cold since arriving here and my knees, that tries to make new records in swelling, got a bandage and I feel like I will be able to climb or rather get down the next three volcanos. I am so thankful. Now just the weather has to play along.    Leggi altro

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    we expected tents, we got luxury

    18 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Today we had loooooong hours in the truck to travel south. 600km were ahead of us. After a excellent good nights sleep in the bed and a hair wash we were ready for four nights in a tent, but there was a rumor that we would sleep in huts or even in a hotel as luxurious as the one we were in last night. Some things get lost in translation so we don’t always know what awaits us exactly but honestly I don’t care. Then there was a confusion about the last day as in how that day was an extra day in case we couldn’t climb the last volcano the day that was planned or if that day was just for relaxing, also, that day could be used for another helicopter trip to the Kurililake in the south where heaps of bears are. Mum and me decided to so it in case. As always, everything depends on the weather and we will see. Those discussions kept us busy for a while which was nice so the journey was a bit quicker. Some uf us slept, Iread 1.5 books. We had lunch again at Mil’kova and then we went to the airport where Daniel could pick up his luggage that got lost on the way to China - Russia. Everything, camera included, was still inside. Very cool. After that we went to a supermarket for food and we could stroll around. Mum and me got elastic bandage for our knees, some fruits and one delicious coffee at a little truck. The guy there was not very keen to work. After ordering the coffee he stretched first and he took his time. Luckily we had it since it took quite some time to buy and store up groceries so we arrived at the camp side quite late at around ten. As said, we didn’t know what to expect but no one expected what we got: Spacious double rooms with walk in showers, we even think we were the first guests. They started this resort in 2013 and they build additional houses. It isn’t finished yet but perfect for us anyway. We went all into the hot pool, all 15 of us. I have to say that our group is very very cool, it mixes so well, there are no groups, everyone sits with everyone and it is such a good ambience even arriving this late and having diner at eleven. We also have wonderful weather and everything is perfect other for some having a cold so there is not really a reason for bad mood but still, it is a really pleasant group. Not granted when you are 15 adults from so different backgrounds. And my mum is just awesome, I am so lucky to live, share and have such a good time with her.
    Tomorrow we will head to another tent camp, we hope, or Vitaly hopes to find a spot without snow for three nights with, fingers crossed, hopefully two successful volcano climbs!    Leggi altro

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    again a lot of snow

    19 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Aaaah, two nights in a row in a bed is pure luxury and breakfast was at nine, what do we want more. We packed all up and were ready for Mutnovsky and Gorely. We climbed or rather our sixwheel truck climbed up the road up to Viluychinskiy pass. What a beautiful view. We are so lucky. Down again the road to the Mutnovsky camp. Because of too much snow and water we weren’t able to reach it without risking being stuck so Vitaly decided to go near a Geothermal station. It would just double tomorrows hike to the crater, instead of 12km we had 24km. Vitaly reassured us that it wouldn’t be as difficult as Talbachik since we just had 700m of climbing. When our tent was ready and the fridge in the snow for the beers, too, we headed for a walk with a big surprise as there was a lot of geothermal action going in with mudholes and sulfur and just beautiful plants around it, we were enchanted. After diner we discussed tomorrow’s plan. Vitaly wanted breakfast at 7, starting time 7:30 with a time to the crater of 7h, then down 6h so being back at around 20h. We asked if he was ok to leave earlier because bad weather was predicted at around noon. In a nicely democratic vote we could decide to start either at 4, 5 or 6. Like in a good compromise the majority opted for 5. So breakfast at 4:30, very cool. Now a night in the tent (I made a little ditch around the tent in case of rain) the wind is very strong but I think we will be very fine, heavy rocks are holding it in place. (Hopefully!) I am so looking forward for tomorrow!Leggi altro

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    muddy bear wind

    20 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    What a day, yes, I repeat myself but today qualifies for that. So since we wished for it we got up at 4, had again delicious breakfast at 4:30 and at 5:15 we started under a beautiful morning sky in direction of the crater of Mutnovsky volcano. We were going at a good pace, unfortunately as predicted into fog. At some point it started to drizzle or even rain. We had strong winds but made our way to the top after only 5hours which was, as Vitaly said, the fasted group climbing up. It was approximately 12km wifh 700 height difference under rather difficult conditions with lots of snowfields. Those were as Vitaly promised way less difficult and exhausting as the one at Talpachik. Up there on the krater we saw not much. Mutnovsky means the foggy, blurry one in Russia. We still went down the crater and there were big holes with Sulfur coming out, stinking and being bright yellow, very impressive but unfortunately also a bit cold up there. We didn’t stay that long since the fumes out of those fumeres (my valcanic vocabulary increases with each day) are toxic (and it stinks of rotten eggs of course) and the cold so we started our way back. My shoes were already soaked. Completely soaked. I was already ok going up Gorely volcano the next day with a little pond around the feet. Oh, I forgot! On n the way up, suddenly someone screamed ‘BEAR’! And indeed! There was a male grizzly wandering around and watching us at a distance of around 150m! AMAZING! I was happy: Now everyone of the group has seen one and more importantly, the bear wasn’t interested in us, we didn’t see him anymore on the way. Our way down was wet and wetter but we made good ways, the ambience was good. Strong winds did almost blow us away. Back at the camp our caring guides were so nice to open the truck and put on the ventilation so soon after it looked like a trekking shop and sauna with very wet stuff. We met at the eating tent for tea and coffee. The winds got stronger and stronger so after diner we had to pack everything up but the sleeping bag and the matress in case we had to leave camp because of the wind. We had a meeting to discuss if we wanted to try to stay or pack up and to go to another camp with maybe less wind - or the hotel. We decided to try. The tents are not storm proof so they can get flat. Rebi and Martins was already flat so they changed the camping spot. While that Matthias and me were still in the eating tent but suddenly its fixation with soil and heavy rocks was not working anymore and so we risked that tent to collapse with us inside. We got out in time and tried to fix it, called Vitaly but obviously with that tent not safe anymore there and some more flat tents to come where you just can’t sleep in Vitaly decided to move. For us not stressful, our guides are so caring and professional and our team was showing some amazing spirit, we all helped eachother in the rain and wind, got all packed up, had a even more crowded truck and 1.5h later, at around 10pm, we were on the way back to the accomodation that is just luxury. The office was ok to pay that night at the hotel for us. I doubt that we could have set up the tents so easily in the same night since many of the sticks are, let’s say, not that straight anymore and the tents wet and dirty. We had a drive of approximately 2h and we arrived all safely at midnight at the hotel. There is even a dry room where we could put our gear, just perfect. We were in bed at around 1am, thinking of our crew that cleaned the truck and took care of everything else. Incredible what they did and still do for us. Vitaly was so sworried about us, I would like so much to tell him that he does an amazing job and that we are very ok with all his decisions and so on, but as said, only bits of English are understood. So mum and I try to show our happiness about this trip with good mood and happy faces and swiss chocolate for him. I mentioned already once, but living all that with mum is amazing. Unfortunately we have one person that is on one hand very appreciative when he has a good time amd thankful and funny, he has a really goid heart but when something is happening that is not at his gusto, he shows it loudly and clearly. Happened as we arrived at that nice hotel the other day he said that he booked adventure and not that, when we arrived at the Geothermic site he was telling to Christina that this place was shit (his words) and the same this evening, he thought that we will just hang around at the hotel and no alternatives and he was not ok with that. We tried to calm him down and wait for Vitaly. In my not much experience with such trips is that the guides always try to get us the best deal so most of us were not worried and well, who can change the weather. But as said, most
    of the time he is very cool and caring. Fortunately Vitaly does not get a lot what he is telling. Anyway, the program for tomorrow is not yet set, probably the waterfalls and Gorely - after all! - the day after. Honestly, who cares, we are all safe, not hurt, dry, fed and hydrated, a comfortable good nights sleep ahead and now we have a good story to tell, lucky us!    Leggi altro

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    fifty shades of grey

    21 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    The alarmclock went already after 6h of sleep but we were all punctual at breakfast at 8am. Vitalys suggestion was to go to Gorely volcano today since tomorrow the weather will be even worse. So at 10 we were ready for another climb with hopefully a glance into a crater with a bright blue lake of sulfur. We were optimistic but unfortunately the weather was rather foggy then sunny. Anyway in a good mood and much motivation we started to climb up. It was already windy in the beginning. Like right into the face that wind. It got steeper and windier, you really had to be careful not to fall because of wind. The ascent wasn’t that long, 6km in total with 800m, but that wind! It came in gushes and it was quite adventurous. We reached the top after 1.5h and we saw - nothing. Nothing at all. Nix, nada, zilch. Just grey in grey. Luckily the wind gusts were coming in the front so there was not such a big risk to fall into that boiling water. We wanted to have some lunch up there but the weather conditions got worse, the winds stronger, so Vitaly rushed us down at some point. And that was adventurous. My mum fell once because of the wind and all others were struggeling. We almost ran down that volcano. Still some groups headed the other way, some in sneakers. We did not envy them. Down again we had something to eat and up we went in the truck and back to the hotel. Shower and hot bath awaited us, wonderful. Since that night was not planned at the hotel and theoretically we could have stayed in tents we have to pay for that night, worth every rubel. Diner was delicious as always and for the first time we played cards. Again, what a day!Leggi altro

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    rest day

    22 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    After a looooong good nights sleep the day started at ten and an hour later we were off to some waterfall. With an easy walk first through bushes and then through snow we reached our goal under bright sunshine. It was supposed to rain. (We tried not to imagine the weather at Gorely.) Anyway it was a very relaxed and pleasant excursion where we ended thanks to Timon at some hot springs where we had a nice view on the valley. We had to climb 182 stairs to get there, mum counted. Back at the hotel we had lunch and then some of us stayed a bit longer and saw Vitaly, who did not eat lunch, cleaning the tents. We asked Anja to ask him if we could help and we told her to tell him that it would make us really happy if he let us help. We knew that he would say no otherwise. That convinced him and so Martin, Rebecca, Matthias, mum and me cleaned for 1.5h those tents. I have no idea how much time it would have taken him to do that alone. The other members were busy doing other stuff. Anyway, the cleaning water was very brown and Vitaly said we took some Mutnovsky with us. I was glad we could help. After that we had a long bath in the pool. Life can be wonderful. After shower Rebecca passed by. She and her husband Martin took care of the tipping business and created envelopes for each of our crew member. They did that wonderfully and it looks very personal. Since Christina and probably also Yvgeny will quit us tomorrow we will give it to all them tomorrow. The plan will be to leave when we are ready, to go for groceries again and then to the Avachinsky base camp. The weather forecast is not good for wednesday, the day that was planned for the ascent (of 1800m...) but thursday, our reserve-day look way better. Some want to go to Kuri lake to see the bears by helicopter. So we had to decide if we want to let the option open for the lake or the climb. Mum and me decided to try the volcano since it would be another 600€ each and we were not sure about to go or not in the first place and climbing up volcanoes is why we came here. So hopefully we will be lucky either wednesday or thursday for volcano number 4!Leggi altro

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    on the way to avacha

    23 luglio 2019, Russia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We had again a late start and after breakfast we gave our tipps away. Rebecca did that wonderfully and we all think they were happy about it. Even Larissa, our awesome cook that is only happy with us when we eat everything she serves us, took out her phone and took some pictures. We drove first to the supermarket where we got again our delicious coffee, to our disappointment it was another guy, that one being very motivated and efficient. We then headed to the Avachinsky volcano where we made ourselves comfortable in our huts. I am sleeping in a dorm with mum, Daniel, Rebecca and Martin, Walter and Christine, the Austrian couple. We went for a, I quote Vitaly, a little walk of 2h where we wouldn’t need water or backpack. That walk was up to the camel hill, created after an eruption in ‘45 (?) where the lava would come out like toothpaste and not flow but get stuck in place. We could climb up one of the camle hill which was only 300m of ascent. We started in fog and up there it suddenly cleared up and we could see until the Pacific. Wonderful. Even more since bad weather is predicted for tomorrow so the one going to Kuril lake won’t be able to climb up Avachinsky. After diner we had another round of cards and up we went to bed.Leggi altro

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