mange, tu aimes

June - July 2019
my parents and me in russia Read more
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  • Day 21

    muddy bear wind

    July 20, 2019 in Russia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    What a day, yes, I repeat myself but today qualifies for that. So since we wished for it we got up at 4, had again delicious breakfast at 4:30 and at 5:15 we started under a beautiful morning sky in direction of the crater of Mutnovsky volcano. We were going at a good pace, unfortunately as predicted into fog. At some point it started to drizzle or even rain. We had strong winds but made our way to the top after only 5hours which was, as Vitaly said, the fasted group climbing up. It was approximately 12km wifh 700 height difference under rather difficult conditions with lots of snowfields. Those were as Vitaly promised way less difficult and exhausting as the one at Talpachik. Up there on the krater we saw not much. Mutnovsky means the foggy, blurry one in Russia. We still went down the crater and there were big holes with Sulfur coming out, stinking and being bright yellow, very impressive but unfortunately also a bit cold up there. We didn’t stay that long since the fumes out of those fumeres (my valcanic vocabulary increases with each day) are toxic (and it stinks of rotten eggs of course) and the cold so we started our way back. My shoes were already soaked. Completely soaked. I was already ok going up Gorely volcano the next day with a little pond around the feet. Oh, I forgot! On n the way up, suddenly someone screamed ‘BEAR’! And indeed! There was a male grizzly wandering around and watching us at a distance of around 150m! AMAZING! I was happy: Now everyone of the group has seen one and more importantly, the bear wasn’t interested in us, we didn’t see him anymore on the way. Our way down was wet and wetter but we made good ways, the ambience was good. Strong winds did almost blow us away. Back at the camp our caring guides were so nice to open the truck and put on the ventilation so soon after it looked like a trekking shop and sauna with very wet stuff. We met at the eating tent for tea and coffee. The winds got stronger and stronger so after diner we had to pack everything up but the sleeping bag and the matress in case we had to leave camp because of the wind. We had a meeting to discuss if we wanted to try to stay or pack up and to go to another camp with maybe less wind - or the hotel. We decided to try. The tents are not storm proof so they can get flat. Rebi and Martins was already flat so they changed the camping spot. While that Matthias and me were still in the eating tent but suddenly its fixation with soil and heavy rocks was not working anymore and so we risked that tent to collapse with us inside. We got out in time and tried to fix it, called Vitaly but obviously with that tent not safe anymore there and some more flat tents to come where you just can’t sleep in Vitaly decided to move. For us not stressful, our guides are so caring and professional and our team was showing some amazing spirit, we all helped eachother in the rain and wind, got all packed up, had a even more crowded truck and 1.5h later, at around 10pm, we were on the way back to the accomodation that is just luxury. The office was ok to pay that night at the hotel for us. I doubt that we could have set up the tents so easily in the same night since many of the sticks are, let’s say, not that straight anymore and the tents wet and dirty. We had a drive of approximately 2h and we arrived all safely at midnight at the hotel. There is even a dry room where we could put our gear, just perfect. We were in bed at around 1am, thinking of our crew that cleaned the truck and took care of everything else. Incredible what they did and still do for us. Vitaly was so sworried about us, I would like so much to tell him that he does an amazing job and that we are very ok with all his decisions and so on, but as said, only bits of English are understood. So mum and I try to show our happiness about this trip with good mood and happy faces and swiss chocolate for him. I mentioned already once, but living all that with mum is amazing. Unfortunately we have one person that is on one hand very appreciative when he has a good time amd thankful and funny, he has a really goid heart but when something is happening that is not at his gusto, he shows it loudly and clearly. Happened as we arrived at that nice hotel the other day he said that he booked adventure and not that, when we arrived at the Geothermic site he was telling to Christina that this place was shit (his words) and the same this evening, he thought that we will just hang around at the hotel and no alternatives and he was not ok with that. We tried to calm him down and wait for Vitaly. In my not much experience with such trips is that the guides always try to get us the best deal so most of us were not worried and well, who can change the weather. But as said, most
    of the time he is very cool and caring. Fortunately Vitaly does not get a lot what he is telling. Anyway, the program for tomorrow is not yet set, probably the waterfalls and Gorely - after all! - the day after. Honestly, who cares, we are all safe, not hurt, dry, fed and hydrated, a comfortable good nights sleep ahead and now we have a good story to tell, lucky us!
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  • Day 22

    fifty shades of grey

    July 21, 2019 in Russia ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    The alarmclock went already after 6h of sleep but we were all punctual at breakfast at 8am. Vitalys suggestion was to go to Gorely volcano today since tomorrow the weather will be even worse. So at 10 we were ready for another climb with hopefully a glance into a crater with a bright blue lake of sulfur. We were optimistic but unfortunately the weather was rather foggy then sunny. Anyway in a good mood and much motivation we started to climb up. It was already windy in the beginning. Like right into the face that wind. It got steeper and windier, you really had to be careful not to fall because of wind. The ascent wasn’t that long, 6km in total with 800m, but that wind! It came in gushes and it was quite adventurous. We reached the top after 1.5h and we saw - nothing. Nothing at all. Nix, nada, zilch. Just grey in grey. Luckily the wind gusts were coming in the front so there was not such a big risk to fall into that boiling water. We wanted to have some lunch up there but the weather conditions got worse, the winds stronger, so Vitaly rushed us down at some point. And that was adventurous. My mum fell once because of the wind and all others were struggeling. We almost ran down that volcano. Still some groups headed the other way, some in sneakers. We did not envy them. Down again we had something to eat and up we went in the truck and back to the hotel. Shower and hot bath awaited us, wonderful. Since that night was not planned at the hotel and theoretically we could have stayed in tents we have to pay for that night, worth every rubel. Diner was delicious as always and for the first time we played cards. Again, what a day!Read more

  • Day 23

    rest day

    July 22, 2019 in Russia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    After a looooong good nights sleep the day started at ten and an hour later we were off to some waterfall. With an easy walk first through bushes and then through snow we reached our goal under bright sunshine. It was supposed to rain. (We tried not to imagine the weather at Gorely.) Anyway it was a very relaxed and pleasant excursion where we ended thanks to Timon at some hot springs where we had a nice view on the valley. We had to climb 182 stairs to get there, mum counted. Back at the hotel we had lunch and then some of us stayed a bit longer and saw Vitaly, who did not eat lunch, cleaning the tents. We asked Anja to ask him if we could help and we told her to tell him that it would make us really happy if he let us help. We knew that he would say no otherwise. That convinced him and so Martin, Rebecca, Matthias, mum and me cleaned for 1.5h those tents. I have no idea how much time it would have taken him to do that alone. The other members were busy doing other stuff. Anyway, the cleaning water was very brown and Vitaly said we took some Mutnovsky with us. I was glad we could help. After that we had a long bath in the pool. Life can be wonderful. After shower Rebecca passed by. She and her husband Martin took care of the tipping business and created envelopes for each of our crew member. They did that wonderfully and it looks very personal. Since Christina and probably also Yvgeny will quit us tomorrow we will give it to all them tomorrow. The plan will be to leave when we are ready, to go for groceries again and then to the Avachinsky base camp. The weather forecast is not good for wednesday, the day that was planned for the ascent (of 1800m...) but thursday, our reserve-day look way better. Some want to go to Kuri lake to see the bears by helicopter. So we had to decide if we want to let the option open for the lake or the climb. Mum and me decided to try the volcano since it would be another 600€ each and we were not sure about to go or not in the first place and climbing up volcanoes is why we came here. So hopefully we will be lucky either wednesday or thursday for volcano number 4!Read more

  • Day 24

    on the way to avacha

    July 23, 2019 in Russia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We had again a late start and after breakfast we gave our tipps away. Rebecca did that wonderfully and we all think they were happy about it. Even Larissa, our awesome cook that is only happy with us when we eat everything she serves us, took out her phone and took some pictures. We drove first to the supermarket where we got again our delicious coffee, to our disappointment it was another guy, that one being very motivated and efficient. We then headed to the Avachinsky volcano where we made ourselves comfortable in our huts. I am sleeping in a dorm with mum, Daniel, Rebecca and Martin, Walter and Christine, the Austrian couple. We went for a, I quote Vitaly, a little walk of 2h where we wouldn’t need water or backpack. That walk was up to the camel hill, created after an eruption in ‘45 (?) where the lava would come out like toothpaste and not flow but get stuck in place. We could climb up one of the camle hill which was only 300m of ascent. We started in fog and up there it suddenly cleared up and we could see until the Pacific. Wonderful. Even more since bad weather is predicted for tomorrow so the one going to Kuril lake won’t be able to climb up Avachinsky. After diner we had another round of cards and up we went to bed.Read more

  • Day 25

    hours of games under the rain

    July 24, 2019 in Russia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Today bad weather was announced and it didn’t disappoint us: rain the whole day. I didn’t mind it, we were in a hut, we were warm and I had a lot of playing buddies. And that was what we did. We played all day long and it was fabulous. I will miss those people!Read more

  • Day 26

    avachinsky

    July 25, 2019 in Russia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Avanchinsky! 2741m high and beautiful with a lake of lava stuck in the crater, very unusual and with fumeroles and a view on the pacific and the avacha bay, just marvelous. And it was, just not until the very top for me. But from the beginning. We, that means the ones not going to Kuril lake today as in Marcel&Laura, Rebecca&Martin, Daniel, Timon, mum and me would get up at around 5:30, breakfast at 6 and then off we were at 7. Under a bit of fog but otherwise a freshly powered Volcano in sight with another one next to it we started our walk. It was wonderful. Just not my knees. They already didn’t like at all the going down I did and today they even hurt on the way up. It got worse and I know one shouldn’t think about the way down on the way up but knowing I had in total 1800m of going down I was a bit worried. Even more that I had already taken some pain killers and they didn’t work. We had a break at about 2000m and I actually decided to try it to the top but when we got into the snow field it was just painful. So I said I would turn around. I was so disappointed. Even more that Anya had to come with me since Vitaly didn’t want my mum (she decided to turn around, too) and me going down on our own because of fog. Although it was quite busy with lots of people going up and down so we were sure to be fine but Vitaly is so worried about our security that Anya had to come with us. Then the group left was one with different speeds and they now had to get all up - or all turn around in case. I felt bad. The walk down was pleasant when also quite painful but as we got the news over the walkietalkie that they all reached the summit I was relieved. We took our time going down, enjoying the gorgeous view, me still twisted if it was the right decision. Giving up not being an option normally. Being down we had a coffee and mum and me played some Yazzy waiting for the others to arrive. They did, quite later then expected because of heavy fog and a even more difficult descent. They were so tired but so happy to have been up there. The pictures looked like from another world. Just wow! We got back to our last hotel next to the airport and on the way I saw the old simple high buildings people live in and I thought that my ‘struggle’ with going up or not that volcano was just banal and I made peace with my decision. I also realized I don’t deal that well when I don’t achieve something I set the goal to, and luckily it isn’t something that happens to me often. Anyway at the hotel we met the others which had a gorgeous day as well with a lot of bears and salmons. There was big confusion about when and how we go to the sledge dog thing and in the end we got there. And actually it was amazing. There was a dance and some singing from indigenous people and it was in a wonderful place on a beautiful evening and we were so sorry that we were late. We had diner at ones family’s sledge dog shelter. They have 60 of it and they lived all up north until 2-3 years ago. They are always taking part of the big sledge race in March, 1500km with 14 dogs. It takes them approximately 21 days. They have frozen fish for the dogs to eat. Last year one guy from Moscow won and it is something they don’t want to be repeated next year. The daughter told as a lot of stories and it was just a fabulous evening to end that adventure. Vitaly somehow disappeared but I think saying goodbye is not his. We were so lucky to have him as a guide. We also said goodbye to some of the groups that either leave Kamtchatka later or go to somewhere else at another time. It is amazing how you get to like the people you are with for two weeks. As said, I’ll miss them.Read more

  • Day 27

    flying home

    July 26, 2019 in Russia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We met with Rebecca, Karin and the 2 Martins for breakfast and then Anya picked us up to drop us at the airport. We have quite a journey in front of us: leaving Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskiy (that is the real official name) at 1pm, arriving in Moscow at 1pm, leaving it at 6:25pm and arriving in Zurich at 9pm, all somehow the same day but with 10h of time difference. All that with some good company since are seven taking more or less the same flights. All in all: Kamtchatka and this whole trip including Saint Petersburg and Moscow with my parents has been exceptional, there are no words and I cannot express how grateful I am for it.Read more