Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang, the most charming city in Laos, offers a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural experiences, and laid-back vibes. But before we could enjoy all that, we were greeted by a mass of Chinese tourists waiting to board the train we were getting off of as if it was the last train they could ever take again. As soon as Matthias stepped out as the last person exiting that car, the crowd started squeezing in hard, not caring about the luggage which Matthias was pulling, such that the luggage got stuck in between people, hindering Matthias to exit the train fully. Fun times, especially given that when you buy a train ticket, you have a seat assigned to you so that there is no need to squeeze into the train for anyone ever.

In total, we spent 12 days in Luang Prabang and were staying at SaSa Lao (https://www.sasalao.com/) where we did a Workaway (more details about that in a separate footprint). Besides working, we also did some sightseeing, which Luang Prabang has to offer a lot of. We visited the stunning Kuang Si Waterfalls with a private driver who brought us there and picked us up again once we were ready to leave. While the site is very beautiful, it got incredibly crowded toward noon. We also went up to Phousi Mountain, which is a hill in the center of Luang Prabang with some temples on it, from which you can see beautiful sunsets and get breathtaking views of the Mekong River. Another great opportunity to see nice sunsets and wonderful views of the surrounding landscapes is on a sunset cruise on the Mekong River. Since SaSa Lao is also offering such sunset cruises, we were invited to join one for free. Finally, the vibrant Night Market is perfect for exploring local crafts and cuisine, which we did regularly. Other attractions, such as the Pak Ou Caves, National Museum, and Tat Sae Waterfalls, remain options for those with more time to explore.

Besides sightseeing, we did some other recreational activities. Marina took relaxing yoga classes at the Grasshopper Yoga Studio and at the Jungala Lounge (with river view). Two very nice places to recharge energy. One morning, we visited Big Brother Mouse, where volunteers like us can engage in English conversations with local students. One inspiring encounter was with Herbert, a young man from a rural area who earned a scholarship to study computer engineering in Luang Prabang despite never having a computer before we met. It is very nice that youngsters like Herbert have a place like this to learn English with foreigners.

However, in general, communication in Laos can sometimes be a challenge, as many Laotian locals don’t speak English well or at all and even google translate was often far from doing wonders. Despite this, their warm hospitality and friendliness make every interaction a memorable part of the journey. By now we have also learnt and experienced that Laos is a very safe place. That’s why it is common to see female solo travelers all the time. Marina also met a girl called Julie at a yoga place who was travelling by herself through several countries. How amazing!
On the streets, traffic is chaotic but fascinating. Helmets are rare, scooters often carry up to four passengers, riders use mobile phones while driving or chat while riding next to each other. Traffic rules seem to not exist here. You simply “go with the flow”, entering the traffic stream without looking, navigating around potholes. And flowing toward the destination.
Most restaurants and hotels don’t have websites. Instead they have Facebook for more information like a food menu. Besides restaurants, street food is a common sight, with vendors grilling right by the roadside, often filling the air with smoke or burnt oil. A very special thing when it comes to serving meals is that the meals are ready when they are ready. The appetizers might arrive with the main course, and one person’s meal may come long before another’s.

After almost two weeks, it’s time to head to our next destination. Again by train. The journey from SaSa Lao to the train station of Luang Prabang was strange for Marina because she had the feeling of going back home to Switzerland. After all, two to three weeks is the usual duration of vacations we took so far. The train station itself has basic facilities, with squat toilets and no toilet paper. As in a lot of places in Laos, you don’t really have toilet paper, not even soap for washing your hands. We have also learnt that sewage often flows into the Mekong, trash isn’t recycled, and much of it is just burned.

In case you want to visit a good restaurant, café, or bar in Luang prabang, here are our recommendations:
- M & M Restaurant (Indian Food)
- Khaiphaen Restaurant (Laotian Food with local ingredients - Try the typical Laotian dish “Laab” here.)
- Il Tavolo (Italian food)
- Popolo Restaurant (Italian Food)
- Jungala Lounge & Bar (For drinks in the evening)
- Grasshoper Café, Lounge & Restaurant (Great breakfast place)
- Zaori Café (Delicious breakfast - avocado toast & best coffee)
- Formula B (Cute Café)
- Indigo Café (For nice pastry)Read more