• Rachel Bratcher
sep. – okt. 2023

Wes & Rachel Take on Ireland

Et 11-dagers eventyr av Rachel Les mer
  • Reisens start
    21. september 2023

    Day One: Dublin

    20. september 2023, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Arrived in Dublin this morning, got our rental car, and started checking out the city early. Early morning traffic in Dublin is no joke! Wes did well for his first time driving on the opposite side on the car and on the opposite side of the road. First stop the Drury Court Hotel to drop off our luggage since we couldn't check in yet. Then it was off to Trinity College, Ireland's oldest university, founded in 1592. We saw the Book of Kells, which is a handwritten copy of the four gospels of the New Testament. It is believed to have been written in the early 800's. Next it was on to The Long Room in the Old Library. It was beautiful! The library is about to start a restoration project and majority of the books have been removed. Thankfully, there were still a few shelves full of books for us to see. There are marble busts of the great philosophers, writers and individuals connected with Trinity College lining the Long Room. One of the few remaining copies of the 1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic can be found in the Long Room, as well as the Brian Boru harp, which is the oldest of its kind in Ireland.Les mer

  • Day One: Dublin

    21. september 2023, Irland ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Next stop was lunch and our first beers in Ireland at Gallaghers Boxty. On the way there, we stopped by the Molly Malone statute but she was getting all polished up from being graffitied. Then we stopped by Temple Bar to grab a photo and take a look around before going to the Dublin Castle. Dublin Castle was the seat of British rule in Ireland from 1204 until 1922. During that time, it served as a residence for the British monarch's Irish representative. In 1922, the castle was handed over to the newly independent Irish state. Today, Dublin Castle is used for important national events, such as state dinners ad commemorations. From the castle, it was on to the Christ Church Cathedral. Christ Church is officially claimed as the seat of both the Church of Ireland and Roman Catholic archbishops of Dublin. Christ Church was founded in 1030 by the Vikings. It was originally built of wood, and was rebuilt in stone in the late 12th century. It was renovated and rebuilt in the late 19th century. Underneath the church is a large, medieval crypt that houses a mummified cat chasing a mouse and a rare 14th-century copy of the Magna Carta Hiberniae.Les mer

  • Day One: Dublin

    21. september 2023, Irland ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Our next stop was a short walk down to Saint Patrick's Cathedral, founded in 1191 as a Roman Catholic cathedral, it is now the national cathedral of the Church of Ireland. The windows contain stories told within the stained glass. "Saint Patrick's Window" tells the story of the life of Saint Patrick in 39 different episodes. Hanging above the arches of the North Transept are the regimental colours (flags) that commemorate the Irish men and women who died in the service of the British Army in the 19th and eary 20th centuries. "Soldiers do not die, they simply fade away." Regimental Colours are left to decay slowly over time and eventually will fall from the flag poles at which point they are placed in a mounted display case on the walls.

    Around the corner from Saint Patrick's Cathedral is Marsh's Library, the first public library in Ireland. It opened in 1707 and contains over 25,000 books from the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries.
    Les mer

  • Day One: Dublin

    21. september 2023, Irland ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    We walked across the River Liffey to the north side of Dublin for dinner at The Church Cafe. We enjoyed a meal while listening to some trad music and watching the Irish dancers occassionally perform. We tried several different beers, Kilkenny Irish Red was a fav. After dinner, we strolled back across the River Liffey via the Ha'Penney Bridge. We found our way into The Temple Bar and ordered our first pints of Guiness in Ireland. We stopped by Molly Malone on our walk back to our hotel and she was all cleaned up and ready for a selfie. Wes is hoping that the legend of rubbing her chest brings him some good luck! We passed by Stag's Head on our way to our final pub of the night, The Hairy Lemon. We aren't sure how many hours we were awake on our first day, probably around 36, so after a final half pint, we called it a night and headed across the street to the Drury Court Hotel.Les mer

  • Day Two: Kilmainham Goal

    22. september 2023, Irland ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Never thought we'd be running to jail but that is how we found ourselves on our second morning on the Emerald Isle. Our day started with a visit to Kilmainham Goal. Kilmainham Goal opened in 1796 as the new county goal for Dublin. Most of the prisoners were common criminals, the youngest being just three years old! It also held political prisoners involved in Ireland's struggle for independence. We learned about prisoners such as Joseph Plunkett, his wife, Grace Gifford, Robert Emmet, Countess Markievicz and the leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising, 14 of who, were executed by firng squad in the Stonebreaker's yard. The Goal was closed in 1924.Les mer

  • Day Two: Guinness Brewery

    22. september 2023, Irland ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    After escaping from jail, we headed to the Guinness Storehouse. Guinness was founded in 1759 at the Saint James's Gate Brewery by Arthur Guinness, who signed a 9000 year lease on the property. We enjoyed looking at the different marketing campaigns that Guinness has used over the years, many of which have included the iconic Guinness Harp. Rachel's favorite was the fish on a bike!Les mer

  • Day Two: Guinness St. James Gravity Bar

    22. september 2023, Irland ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Perched atop the Guinness Storehouse, the Gravity Bar offers 360-degree views of Dublin to enjoy as you drink a pint of Guinness Stout. The Gravity Bar is designed to look like the head of a pint glass and is as tall as 300 pints of Guinness and it would take 2.6 million pints of Guinness to fill it! The skies were bright and sunny so we had a magnificent view of the city as we drank our pints of Guinness. Our Guinness moustaches need some workLes mer

  • Clonmacnoise, County Offaly

    22. september 2023, Irland ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    We left Dublin and headed west. Our next stop was Clonmacnoise, which is a monastery founded by St Ciaran on the banks of the River Shannon in the 6th century. It became one of Ireland's major centers of religion and learning. The ruins include a Cathedral, two round towers, three high crosses, nine Churches and over 700 early Christian graveslabs. The doorway of the Cathedral is known as the Whispering Arch. Monks would hear confessions there; they would stand on one side of the arch and the penitent on the other would whisper his confession. Due to the arch design, only the monk could hear them. The site is a burial place to many high kings. We got to experience some true Irish weather while there. We were enjoying the sunny afternoon when suddenly the skies became gray and a steady rain shower moved in. We sought cover in the Mass Shelter. The rain eased up and we started tour the site again. It started to rain harder but the Temple Finghin and McCarthy's Tower provided us with protection.

    The ruins of Clonmacnoise Castle, built in 1214, can be see from the monastery. It is known as the "Standing Stone."
    Les mer

  • An Evening in Athlone

    22. september 2023, Irland ⋅ 🌙 52 °F

    We checked into the Sheraton Athlone and raided the Club Lounge for water and snacks before heading out to explore the town of Athlone. We had dinner at Dead Centre Brewing, a local brew pub on the River Shannon. We tried some a few of beers, shared a burger and watched the sunset on the River. After dinner, we crossed the bridge and visited the Church of Saints Peter and Paul as evening mass was letting out. We passed the Athlone Castle as we walked to Sean's Bar. Sean's Bar is said to be the oldest pub in Ireland and Europe, dating back to 900AD. Rachel tried the Murphy's Irish Stout and thought that it was better than Guinness.Les mer

  • Irish Pedestrians & Kylemore Abbey

    23. september 2023, Irland ⋅ 🌧 52 °F

    We left Athlone and drove through the Connemara Mountains to tour Kylemore Abbey. The scenic drive to the Abbey was beautiful, even with the rain and the clouds. We passed a lot of sheep along the way, most were just hanging out in the fields but a few were trying to visit their friends in the next pasture over. The Abbey sits on a lough (lake) and it was difficult to tell if it was actually raining or if the strong winds was blowing that much lough water on us. We thought we had a break in the weather when we arrived so we walked to the walled Victorian Gardens. The garden includes a formal flower garden, vegtable garden, fruit trees, a rockery and herb garden; displaying only plants from the Victorian era.

    The rain began to pick up so we headed to the Abbey. The Abbey was originally Kylemore Castle, built in 1868, as a family home to the Henry family. In 1920, the Irish Benedictine Nuns purchased the Abbey castle and lands after they were forced to flee Belgium during World War I. The nuns ran an all-girl boarding school and a day school for locals for almost a century until it was forced to close in 2010. The Abbey has a partnership with the University of Notre Dame and hosts academic programs for ND students.

    Our last stop was at the neo-Gothic Church that was built in 1877 in honor of Margaret Henry. The neo-Gothic architecture replaced the typical gargoyles of gothic structures with delicate flower, bird and angel features. The inside of the Church was beatiful, with the stained glass, detailed carvings and marble pillars. The color of the marble represented each of the four marble regions of Ireland; green from Connemara, black from Kilkenney, red from Cork and white from Tyrone.

    Perched about three quarters up the mountain behind the Abbey, there's what appears to be a white speck. That white speck is the Sacred Heart statue. The statue was erected by the Benedictine nuns in 1932 to give thanks for their safe arrival during WWI.
    Les mer

  • Wild Winds and Galway's Latin Quarter

    23.–25. sep. 2023, Irland ⋅ 🌬 59 °F

    After touring Kylemore Abbey, we headed to Galway for a two night stay at The House Hotel. We took the longer route to get to the city which took us along the North Atlantic coastline. We stopped along the road to take in our first views of the ocen and smell the salt air. The wind was fierce and pushed Rachel back towards the car. We made our way into Galway and found The House Hotel. We strolled through the Latin Quarter, did some shopping; Rachel bought a Claddaugh ring and Wes made a friend. We had dinner at McDonagh's. It had a Mike Linning's atmosphere about it so we figured it would be good. The fish and chips were delicious! Wes was hoping to find a pub to watch some of Ireland's rugby match against South Africa in the World Cup. We found that there aren't many "sports pubs" in Ireland so we headed back to the hotel and watched it in our room.Les mer

  • A Soggy Everything

    24. september 2023, Irland ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

    Day Four was filled with several different adventures! We started the day by taking a 7 minute flight from the Connemara Airport to the Aran Island of Inishmore (Inis Mor). We rented electric bikes to get us around the small island. Inishmore is only about 12 square miles. We got a few miles in before the rain moved in. Along the way, we stopped to take selfies with a horse that head-butted Rachel and rode past an area known to have a seal colony. Unfortunately, we did not see any seals. We biked to Dun Aonghasa, the largest prehistoric fort on the Aran Islands. We made the short hike to the top of the sea cliff. The fort is over 3,000 years old and consists of three stonewalls surrounded by a chevaux-de-frise (a band of dense, jagged, upright stones used to impede intruders). The fort sits atop the edge of a cliff that's about 100 meters high. Visibility was poor due to the rain and the dense fog and the force of the wind kept us from getting too close to the edge. The winds were picking up as a storm approached us so for safety concerns, we decided to skip the Worm Hole. It was at this point that we started out on an adventure that neither of us will soon forget. It was raining so hard and we were soaked! It was at that time that Rachel decided to "Embrace the Suck." Our map had torn and Wes's phone screen/GPS wasn't working well. There were signs on rock walls with names and little hikers pointing us to the sites so we thought we were headed the right way. We continued on the path and saw lots of pastures divided by rock walls and the very occasional hiker. We started downhill on the E-bikes in the pouring rain on a path consisting of mud and slick limestone rocks. Both of us came close to losing control and wiping out. We climbed some step inclines that involved us pushing the bikes uphill. We weren't sure exactly where we were but on an island that's only 12 square miles, we figured that we couldn't have been that far from civilization. Finally, we came to a paved road and the realization that we were closer to our destination than we thought. After starting up a huge hill, we made the mutual decision to scrap the mission and head back into town. We turned the bikes in and headed to The Bar. We were soaked, cold, hungry and in need of a pint! We had some seafood chowder, brown bread and Wes enjoyed a pint of beer while Rachel tried an Irish coffee. We shopped for an Aran knitted sweater before making our way in another downpour to the ferry to take us by the Cliffs of Moher and back to Galway.

    It was foggy as the ferry approached the Cliffs of Moher but the luck of the Irish prevailed! Part of a rainbow became visible and the grey clouds made room for some blue sky. Seeing the cliffs from the water was pretty neat. From the top of the ferry, the cliffs do not seem as tall as they really are.
    Les mer

  • Murphy's Ice Cream & the Galway Girl

    24. september 2023, Irland ⋅ 🌬 59 °F

    We made it back to our hotel still soaking wet and cold. There was a towel warmer in the bathroom that doubled as a clothes dryer. After hot showers and dry clothes, we went returned to the Latin Quarter for a pizza at The Dough Bros. After dinner, we stopped in at Murphy's Ice Cream. Mmmm, it was so good! We met the Galway Girl; she wasn't interested in sharing any ice cream but did seem to like Wes. We checked out the Spanish Arch, which was built in 1584 but is an extension of the 12th century Norman-built town wall. It housed soldiers who kept watch and manned cannons on the roof.Les mer

  • A Church, A Castle & A Rock

    25. september 2023, Irland ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    Day 6 began early with a sunny sky which was very much appreciated after all the rain the day before. Our clothes were mostly dry thanks in part to a towel warmer, a blow dryer and the Galway newspaper. We decided to stop by the Galway Cathedral before heading towards Doolin. The Cathedral was dedicated in 1965 and is the youngest of Europe's great stone cathedrals. It was stunning inside! We didn't stay long since we had a lot planned for the day. Our second stop was Dunguaire Castle. Dunguaire Castle sits on the shores of Galway Bay and was built in 1520. Our next stop took us on an adventure as the roads became extremely narrow for two lanes. Thankfully, there wasn't much on-coming traffic as we drove to the Poulnabrone Dolmen, in an area known as the Burren. Poulnabrone is classified as a portal tomb and dates back to the Neolithic period, with estimates between 4200 BC and 2900 BC. Surrounding the Dolmen is a Glacio-Karst landscape that is the combined result of glacial activity and rainwater dissolution.Les mer

  • The Magical Cliffs of Moher

    25. september 2023, Irland ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    The weather was about as close to perfect as we figured we could get so we decided to head to the Cliffs of Moher from the Poulnabrone Dolmen. We parked at Guerin's Path and walked up to the cliff path. Pictures do not do justice for how beautiful the cliffs are. We walked along the path and took in the views of waves crashing below. We were able to see Hag's Head to the south and O'Brien's Tower to the North but did not venture to either. Our blue sky was being replaced by gray clouds and the visibility had decreased some but it was still spectacular to see.Les mer

  • Of Course We Found a Petting Farm!

    25. september 2023, Irland ⋅ 🌬 63 °F

    This was probably our most fun find on our trip to Ireland and somewhere that many don't even know exists. Moher Hill Open Farm is only about four minutes from Guerin's Path and the Cliffs. There are lots of animals to feed and pet and take some selfies with! We got to see alpacas, emus, minature horses, Galway sheep, a Highland coo, Jacob sheep, Kune Kune pigs, llamas, a minature donkey, Pygmy goats, red deer and Soay sheep.Les mer

  • Moher Open Hill farm 2

    25. september 2023, Irland ⋅ 🌬 63 °F

    A Galway sheep from the farm next door came over to the gate to get some of the feed that we had. It snubbed Rachel and would not eat from her hand, no matter how many times she tried! It would only take feed from Wes.Les mer

  • Doolin & Bertie

    25. september 2023, Irland ⋅ 🌬 63 °F

    We spent the night in the little town of Doolin. On our way to our B&B, Waze took us along the coastline and right past Doonagore Castle. This castle is from the mid 16th century and built of sandstone. The castle is not open to the public but we did stop for a photo op of this picturesque scene.

    We were welcomed to Sheedy's Doolin B&B by Bertie who wanted to play ball and get his belly rubbed. We got checked in and then headed into town to get dinner at Gus O'Conner's Pub.
    Les mer

  • Sunset on the Cliffs

    25.–26. sep. 2023, Irland ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    The evening sky was fairly clear so we decided to take advantage of an evening trip to the Cliffs of Moher to experience the sunset. It was not very crowded at O'Brien's Tower. The winds had picked up, making for a cool, crisp autumn night, but it was so worth it! This was definietly a highlight of the trip!Les mer

  • Doolin Pubs

    25. september 2023, Irland ⋅ 🌬 59 °F

    We took to the pubs that night and Doolin did not disappoint. Our first stop was at McGann's Pub. We were able to grab two seats at the bar and listen to some trad music over a few pints. After a few songs, we headed across the street to McDermott's Pub. McDermott's has been around since 1867 and was the pub to be at that night. The band Dubhlinn with Michael "Blackie" O'Connell was performing and the place was packed! Wes called them the "Beatles of Ireland." The bartender introduced Rachel to the addition of a lime to a Jameson and Ginger Ale. We made some friends from Chicago and closed down McDermott's with a few rounds.Les mer

  • Bunratty Castle & Folk Park

    26. september 2023, Irland ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    We enjoyed a delicious breakfast at Sheedy's (including some amazing fresh scones) before saying goodbye to Bertie and heading south to Dingle. We stopped at Bunratty Castle and Folk Park. Bunratty Castle was built around 1425. It has been restored with furnishings from the 15th and 16th centuries, making it the "most complete and authentic castle in Ireland." Wes took his seat at the head of the banquet table and we were "locked" in the dungeon. The winding staircases were steep and a little scary to navigate but they led to rooms filled with beautiful furniture, artwork, and detailed wood working. The Folk Park features over 30 buildings and is a replica of a 19th century village, including a rural section and a village street.Les mer

  • Pour Your Own Guinness at Durty Nelly's

    26. september 2023, Irland ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Tucked right next to Bunratty Castle, is Durty Nelly's. It was established in 1620 and was once a bar for the castle guards. The house is said to have belonged to a lady named Durty Nelly who was the first keeper of the toll bridge, then pub owner and creator of a "magic" whiskey brew. Lucky for us, the bar wasn't too crowded and the bartender taught us how to pour our own Guiness! (Yes, it really does taste better in Ireland.) Before we left, Wes added a LMPD patch to their collection.

    Nelly's Blessing: "May the road rise up to meet you. May the wind be always at your back. May the sun shine warm upon your face, the rains fall soft upon your fields and until we meet again, may God hold you in the palm of his hand."
    Les mer