Day 3 - PM - Zubiri to Pamplona

Today I arrived in Pamplona around 3:30 pm. I've realized some of the scenery doesn't seem familiar to me in the mornings even though I've done this camino route before. This is because in the summer I would leave the albergues by 6 am to beat the heat so my first walking hours were always in the dark.

I've enjoyed the less hurried pace of my fall hikes because there isn't a bed race, seeing the dew still clinging to leaves and berries in the morning, and the cool air on my skin. The rich carpet of crunchy leaves and leaves twirling down from trees is also a pretty sight.

It has been a challenge to predict how to dress for this new weather though. It was cool enough this morning that I was glad to have on my fleece lined pants but an hour or two into the walk, I was starting to peel off layers from the rising temperatures. Eventually I changed into shorts but when the sun was hidden and the wind picked up on the hill tops, it was cold enough to need to throw on a jacket. Tonight I felt like I needed all my warm clothes to walk back after dinner.

Another thing that has been different this camino is the lack of open cafes and albergues. I couldn't book some albergues I enjoyed in 2023 and snack/bathroom breaks are less frequent because many restaurants/cafes are closed. I had to walk much longer distances to find a bathroom which was very uncomfortable. I also regretted not packing more snacks because I was getting very hungry as well.

Luckily I came across a Spanish gentleman selling drinks, fruits, and nuts up on a hill. I still had 5 euros in cash and picked out some peanuts and an orange. He told me to pick up some more fruit to go but that was enough to tide me over until I got into Pamplona where I also used an ATM to withdraw more cash. To make sure I'm more prepared for tomorrow, I bought some snacks and have a leftover salad.

In the albergue, my closest bunkmate (Sam from England) asked if I had been in the municipal albergue in Zubiri. I said I hadn't so he told me that the police had to be called because a pilgrim had 300 euros stolen from him! They never caught the thief which makes me even more wary of carrying large sums of cash with me.

The walk from Zubiri to Pamplona had some difficult parts with narrow paths on high ledges or steep inclines and declines but much less than the previous two days. The inclines don't really bother me anymore but the declines are still bothersome. Yesterday my left knee was injured and today it was my right knee - no doubt protesting how much extra work they had to do yesterday. But walking through the pain seems to be the best answer because it eventually calms down. Walking backwards also helps gives my knees a break.

As I crossed a bridge into Pamplona, an elderly gentlement approached me and asked me where I was from. He nodded approvingly when I said Canada, then he gave me a list of proverbs I could reflect on for the camino.

I have found some simple but happy moments today like the unexpected fruit seller, learning I can do laundry for free in my albergue, and finding out I've been assigned a lower bunk!

To cap the day off, I got to eat some pinchos in Pamplona. We didn't end up doing our Asian dinner because the supermarket was too far after a day of hiking but I was very pleased to have some pinchos and a radler to wash it down. Our favourites were the pulpo and fried sausage! I will lose no weight if I keep enjoying all the yummy food!!Read more