Day 26 - Monbus from Fisterra to Sarria

I woke up to my 6:30 am alarm and hastily got ready, made my breakfast and lunch, cleaned up, and packed my backpack. Checked out of the apartment at 8:00 am to catch my first of two busses. The first from Fisterra to Santiago de Compostela and then a transfer from there to Sarria. In the summer, theses busses are packed with a capacity for over 50 people and run frequently throughout the day but today there were only half a dozen people onboard. The later season has definitely deterred many people from walking the camino with it being wetter, colder, and fewer things open.

Dan met me at the albergue in Sarria after taking a taxi 40 km from O Cebreiro. Toby and Dunyao will catch up with us later this week or in Santiago on the 29th. Many pilgrims we've met are several days behind so we may not see them again before we leave.

She reported today had been a miserably cold and wet day to walk from other people so she was really glad she had an excuse to take a taxi. She had originally bought a bus ticket but missed the bus texting with me. She also talked about how cold and windy it had been in the mountains the last few days. The last place she stayed at was all brick with no proper heating and insulation so it was colder inside than outside! She was relieved it was noticeably warmer in Sarria which is sitting around a high of 9 degrees celsius vs 0 degrees in the mountains.

I had gotten groceries before arriving at the albergue so I could cook a hot soup for her before she arrived. I changed my mind when the owner told me there was an extra 10 euro charge to use the kitchen. I wasn't willing to pay it on principle when the listing never mentioned it and included photos of a full kitchen. I will return the groceries for a refund and we'll go get some seafood instead.

On the topic of food, Dan also told me she has gotten addicted to churros and hot chocolate after I introduced them to her in Leon. She has been to 3-4 different churro places since I last saw her so we decided to go to one before dinner today. There are always variations of the hot chocolate or churros so it's nice to try different restaurants. Sometimes the hot chocolate isn't great bc it is just hot milk with a pack or cocoa powder. We enjoyed the thick hot chocolate at the cafe we found but she found the churros a bit greasy.

We have both been frustrated by the lack of open cafes and restaurants and agreed that if we ever returned for another camino, it would be in the spring or fall - around September or early October. We really need good food to be happy!

Dan generously treated for churros and a seafood dinner. We had so much paella left over that it will be our breakfast tomorrow morning. We got back after 10 pm and I was so tired I fell asleep quickly.Read more