Recovering & relaxing in Phuket
11 juni 2025, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C
The journey to Phuket took us the entire day. First, our flight was delayed by 2.5 hours for no apparent reason—classic. Then, once we finally boarded and settled into our seats, the plane suddenly powered down. Lights off, AC off, everything off.
We waited about 30 minutes before the crew announced that the aircraft needed repairs—or that we’d be changing planes entirely. Back to the terminal we went. I wasn’t feeling 100% to begin with and was already running low on patience. I tried not to show it too much, and tried not to complain (too much). But let’s be honest, mildly grumpy was the baseline.
Eventually, they announced boarding for a new aircraft, an hour later. We boarded again, trying to be optimistic this time, and finally left Ho Chi Minh City with a 5-hour delay.
Honestly, it wouldn’t have been that bad if I hadn’t planned to meet up with my thai friend Tam and her daughter Vela that evening. They were leaving for Bangkok the next day, so every hour counted. But luckily, everything worked out in the end.
We had a lovely dinner with Tam and Vela that night, followed by a beautiful little boat trip with them the next morning. A short reunion, but a very sweet one.
The next few days we embraced full vacation mode: relaxing by the pool, sipping generous amounts of cocktails, feasting on seafood, heading to the beach, and exploring Old Town Phuket. The colorful shops, the vibrant streets and yes, the very questionable “Tom Yum Kung fish soup ice cream.” Jasper says: not recommended. I say: an experience.
For once, we made full use of the hotel facilities (for once not staying in a 10-bed hostel dorm): I did a cooking class, got two massages, and even went to a yoga class. Pure luxury after a month of backpacking with questionable mattresses and shared bathrooms.
For our final adventure, we took a scooter for the 80-minute ride to the airport. Looking back, possibly not the safest choice. But the hot air rushing past, the chaotic symphony of motorbikes, and the endless scenery made me feel totally alive—totally free. Even as we were speeding down the highway at 90 km/h, my backpack threatening to yeet me off the seat, eyes half-shut from exhaustion, I was just... thankful.
Speaking of thankful, I’m so incredibly grateful I got to share this trip with Jasper. Grateful that I had the chance to travel through Asia at all. It’s a privilege, and I know it. Seeing everything through four eyes instead of two gave everything more perspective.
We had so many ridiculously funny moments, and Jasper honestly took care of me like a big brother whenever I wasn’t feeling well. Sure, we annoyed each other occasionally and had a few tiny discussions, but nothing that lasted more than five minutes. Our friendship grew stronger than ever, surviving sleepless nights on sleeper buses and fever checks during food poisoning really do bond you for life.
Now I’m in Doha, sitting on the plane to Zurich. Going home is never my favorite chapter of the story, but it’s part of it. Reality hits, eventually.
I know I’ll return to Thailand. The culture, the warmth of the people, it all captured me in just three days. There’s still so much more I want to see.
But for now? Swiss mountains, I’m coming for you.
Let’s hike it off.
And with that, my backpacking through east asia has come to an end🫶Meer informatie
Ho Chi Minh Shitty
6 juni 2025, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C
As the title says our one and a half days in Saigon were not exactly great.
But let me start from the beginning.
We took the bus from Can Tho to the city, checked into our very nice hotel – Annie House – where we finally got a clean and large double room (hallelujah). Then we went for lunch at what’s supposedly the best Pho place in HCMC. And I must say it was actually really good.
Next stop: Annam, a delicacy supermarket – and you know my thing for supermarkets. I was honestly overwhelmed (in a good way) by all the gluten-free stuff. A mini happy moment.
Later, we went to a beer tasting where jasper quickly turned into a beer sommelier, I documented everything precisely and then headed back to the hotel to get ready for the night.
Matching outfits on, we fought the chaotic traffic to reach a fancy rooftop bar, had a Vietnamese dinner afterwards, and strolled down Bui Vien Street, a bar street, also called crazy street. But… wow. That place was next-level crazy. We looked at each other and decided, Nope. We weren’t that kind of crazy.
The next day: the misery begins.
We woke up, had an açaí bowl and coffee, and set off to do the touristy stuff.
But something was off. After the coffee, we both felt like someone had punched us in the gut. Still, we went to the War Remnants Museum, where my nausea really kicked in – but I chalked it up to the gut-wrenching content. Seriously, the images were horrifying – torture, prisons, corpses. It was heavy.
We moved on to the Post Office – one of HCMC’s “must-sees,” but honestly, surrounded by skyscrapers, it just looked kinda sad. Like a lost grandma in a techno club.
BUT: I got to send my 11 postcards. Victory? Almost.
We had a minor crisis: I had to lick 33 stamps. And I really didn’t want my tongue to touch those things. But here came Jasper, immune system of steel, who took over licking duty while I prepped the stamps. Fifteen minutes, some tears, and possibly PTSD later – we were done.
Then we ordered lunch from a gluten-free restaurant/bakery, yayy. I finally got my first Banh Mi! We shared everything so I could try more. A moment of pure joy.
Followed by disaster.
After lunch, my unwellness reached new heights. We ran to Starbucks because I needed a toilet to throw up – and yes, it was that bad. And yes, it got worse.
We Grab’d back to the hotel, where I fell into bed, proceeded to throw up multiple times, and tried to relax. Tried and failed.
Jasper went out to find a pharmacy. Did I mention it was monsoon season? He returned soaked to the bone, but with probiotics and ginger tea in hand.
After one final full-on vomit performance, I started to feel slightly better. Still, everything hurt, I was freezing and sweating at the same time, and my breathing was all over the place, like a broken accordion.
Jasper stayed by my side the whole time, comforting me, trying to make me laugh – and actually succeeding now and then. Especially when he decided I was about to die and started singing church hymns and performing last rites like I was a medieval pope. Honestly, I think I laughed-cried through the nausea.
The horror show went on for about 12 hours.
At 1 AM, I woke up and felt... not good, but slightly human. I even managed to sleep a little.
And the wild part? Jasper wasn’t feeling great either – but he still did everything to take care of me…
This morning, I woke up dehydrated like a raisin and with a giant headache – but the nausea was gone, so I considered that a win.
Now we’re sitting at the airport, waiting for our 2.5-hour delayed flight to Phuket.
Onwards, with hope... and probiotics.Meer informatie
When things got out of Hand
5 juni 2025, Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
We arrived in Can Tho two hours too early—at around 4 am with almost no sleep and the brain activity of overcooked noodles. We took a Grab to Ms Ha Homestay, and even though it was insanely early, we knocked on the door just to try our luck. To our surprise, the woman actually opened up. Without skipping a beat, she asked if we wanted to visit the local floating markets.
We agreed—because we were already awake, and honestly didn’t have a clue what else to do at 5:30 a.m. So off we went, just the two of us and Ms Ha, on a tiny motorboat down on of the Rivers of the Mekong.
Now, Ms Ha is a very cool old lady. But wow—she’s persistent. She INSISTED on taking dozens of pictures of us in every imaginable pose. I’m pretty sure she usually gets the Instagram influencer crowd who live for this stuff. Jasper and I? Not so much. Half the time we were cringing like crazy, and the other half we were laughing so hard we almost fell overboard.
We visited the local market and actually helped her with her weekly shopping. And not like, one or two things—she went full-on grocery mode. It was really cool tho walking around with a local, seeing how people shop, what they buy. She kept buying food for us, and by 8 a.m. we were already three meals deep and in a slight food coma.
Then she brought us to a place where they produce rice noodles. I even got to help out, which was fun! Jasper, however, had to watch from the dry zone because his super slippery sliders were NOT made for wet floors.
We also saw how soy sprouts are grown and walked past some local families. And then, because apparently this is just a thing you can do, Ms Ha walked into a house, picked up a baby, yes, a real human baby, and handed it to me. Just like that. For the next 20 minutes, I was walking around holding this tiny, squishy, silent bundle, sweating and desperately hoping it wouldn’t cry or spontaneously decide to yeet itself out of my arms. But honestly? It was also kind of cute and wholesome. That said, I was definitely relieved when she took it back.
Eventually we returned via boat, completely destroyed by the day. We collapsed for a two-hour nap that felt like five minutes. We also realized our average sleep per night is about 5 hours and 30 minutes, and that every third night we basically sleep like garbage, either on a bus, or by waking up stupidly early for something "fun."
After the nap we forced ourselves to walk around the city, even though we were still so tired we felt like someone had punched us in the stomachs and then played drums on our heads. The city itself? Honestly? Not really giving... anything. Seeing the Mekong was nice, we finally got to see the sunset from a rooftop bar, and we had a solid, gluten-free-safe dinner.
The actual highlight of the day: at the night market, we got T-shirts printed with photos from our trip. Possibly the most touristy thing we've done so far—and we loved it.
Then we fell into bed and prayed to every god that we'd sleep forever.
Well. Guess who’s awake at 6 a.m. again?Meer informatie
Fast and Furious Da Lat
3 juni 2025, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
Our journey to Da Lat wasn’t just another travel day — it was an action movie, a comedy, and a small miracle all rolled into one.
It all started in Nha Trang, when the bus organization casually texted us that the transfer bus to Da Lat couldn’t wait for us anymore. We were already running late, and their genius plan? “Get off your bus and take a taxi to catch up with the Da Lat-bound bus on the highway“ Right.
So basically, Fast & Furious: Vietnam Edition kicked off there. We jumped into a random cab, used Google Translate to explain our ridiculous situation to the driver (because of course, no English), and hoped for the best. Imagine: some foreigners telling you they need to chase a bus down and no, they’re not paying for the ride because some bus company with only a WhatsApp number is supposedly covering it.
And somehow—somehow—it worked. The taxi driver called the bus company, they yelled at each other over the phone for a bit, and 10 minutes later we were sitting safely in the Da Lat bus like nothing ever happened.
When we finally arrived in Da Lat, cold and starving, we went for bun bo and I impulse-bought a hoodie at the market because I was freezing. Turns out, that hoodie is now my favorite thing ever. Cozy, cute, and will forever remind me of that wild entrance into Da Lat.
After food, we went to a coffee farm where they showed us how to make that delicious Vietnamese drip coffee Jasper and I are obsessed with. We're still trying to crack the code to recreate it at home—some combination of patience, technique, and magic, I think.
Dinner was early-ish, and we went to bed exhausted but excited for the next day.
And what a next day it was. Before breakfast, we headed to a waterfall adventure park at 7 a.m., did an alpine roller coaster and ziplining—all while being the first visitors of the day, which meant we got the waterfall views all to ourselves. Total VIP vibes.
After that adrenaline kick, we scooted to town to meet Ladina for breakfast (best smoothie bowl with gluten-free granola ever, no exaggeration - i even vought some to bring with me from now on). Then it was off to the famous Mario Kart racing track. We each raced against each other wearing funny helmets to film the race and yes, I won the second lap against both Ladina and Jasper, thank you very much. After that, we rode our scooters back into town, jasper driving and me doing my best Google Maps voice from the back: “Turn left in... never mind, missed it.”
That evening, we met up with Ladina for Indian food, then wandered into Maze Bar—a bar that is literally a maze, designed by the daughter of Vietnam’s first president (who also designed the famous Crazy House we visited earlier that day).
Next day = new adventure: canyoning! Aside from a brief shoe-size crisis (jasper vs vietnamese feet), it was pure fun—waterfalls, rappelling, slides... the whole. Afterward, we visited the Da Lat winery, the biggest in Vietnam. The wines were, let’s say, charming but humble, but the experience was great regardless.
The scooter ride back from the winery, though? Monsoon level. It rained like mad. My socks were so wet I’m honestly considering throwing them out instead of letting them continue their sad, soggy existence.ä
And now, here we are. After our second round of that same amazing Indian food (yes, same restaurant, no regrets), we’re hopping on the sleeper bus to Can Tho. Bye-bye mountainy Da Lat, hello hot and humid Mekong Delta!Meer informatie
Charming Cham Islands
31 mei 2025, Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
If my skin tastes like salt, sweat, and sunscreen, I know I’m in the right place.
The thing about backpacking is: you have to be spontaneous. You see a chance, you take it. It’s a rollercoaster — the highs are sky-high, but the lows can be pretty low. All you’ve got is what’s in your backpack, your feet to carry you, a good friend by your side, and sometimes a wildly unreliable bus — with either ice-cold aircon set to 15°C, snoring seat neighbors, or roads so bumpy you end up headbutting the ceiling.
But still, it’s a free way of traveling. You don’t leave anything behind, you don’t really impact your surroundings — except the people you meet. You get to see places, at least to some extent, through the eyes of the locals. And that’s what I love about it.
Over the last few days, one thought kept repeating in my head:
"I’m so incredibly free."
We spent two wonderful days on the Cham Islands.
We stayed at a cozy homestay with the sweetest host. Only about 30 tourists stayed overnight — the rest were locals. Within the first ten minutes, Jasper managed to break half the balcony (but it was old anyway, so we’re not blaming him... too much).
We rented a scooter, checked out a few beaches, and made it all the way to the most remote one — only for the scooter to break down. Luckily, a kind guy drove us back to the village. No data, no help otherwise. On another road, the pavement was so wrecked we had to push the scooter — and then turn around and push it uphill, which honestly felt like punishment for being adventurous.
One of the absolute highlights was diving.
Two dives, each around 50 minutes (but felt like 10), and we saw puffers, lionfish, moray eels, lobsters, and coral that was still surprisingly colorful.
We spent loads of time on the beach, surrounded by palm trees, monkeys, and sunshine.
It looked like paradise.
And the seafood? Incredible. We went to this small restaurant and decided to come back the next evening after watching a gorgeous sunset.
Only downside: the waiter couldn’t read or write, and honestly, it felt like he barely spoke Vietnamese. After some classic miscommunication, I ended up getting glutened. But hey, me and my stomach got over it.
After those two exciting, never-boring, yet still peaceful and beautiful days on the islands (Jasper didn’t even want to go at first — now he admits it was amazing), we had to say goodbye.
We picked up our clothes from Bich’s place, had dinner, and headed to the bus station — ready for our next adventure: the night bus to Da Lat.
Plot twist: The bus was overbooked. They just told us, straight-faced, "No space."
Coolcoolcool.
So we sat around like sad backpackers do — until Jasper, the legend, started texting and calling every bus company out there. After juggling a few options, he found a route: Hoi An → Quy Nhon → Nha Trang → Da Lat.
We even considered flying the next morning to avoid the 18-hour chaos... but backpackers are also budget warriors.
With two hours to kill before the bus, we found a bar with live music. By pure coincidence, I ran into Ladina, a friend from ski school who had the exact same problem. We booked the same bus for her, had drinks, laughed, and enjoyed the music. It turned out to be a perfect night.
Then came the bus — 35 minutes late, of course. We sat on the sidewalk like total outcasts, but somehow felt so good. So free. So alive.
Eventually, the bus showed up. Tiny beds — absolutely no room. Ladina and I didn’t sleep at all. Jasper managed to snooze a bit (shockingly). And now we’re on our second bus, the roads are horrific, sleep is a distant dream, but... in 6 hours, we’ll be in Da Lat.
And we’ll see what happens next. :)Meer informatie
From styes to styles
29 mei 2025, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C
Sorry this is a long one but its super cool so read until the end:)
We arrived in Hoi An in the late afternoon, went to the hostel where we were greeted very warmly by Ernest, the owner, and took a little stroll around the old town before meeting Xaver and Jana for dinner at Silent Garden. Such a funny coincidence that one of our days in Vietnam overlaps—especially because they're traveling from south to north!
The next morning, I woke up at the hostel after a long and very good sleep… but with an eyelid the size of a balloon. I immediately texted Jasper that I had to go to the doctor and that this shady antibiotic thingy—which honestly looked like a knockoff perfume—had not worked at all. Quite the opposite, actually.
Jasper had already gone for a walk, but he came back prepared: he had Googled and found a good hospital. We walked there and I immediately felt very well taken care of.
The doctor was British, spoke perfect English, and led us to the Vietnamese eye doctor. We had to wait a little and fill in some forms. I told Jasper he could leave and that I'd text him when I was done—but he didn’t leave. And honestly, I was so thankful for that, even though I didn’t admit it at the time.
When we entered the eye doctor’s room, he asked (in very Vietnamese-English, mostly Vietnamese) what hurt, and I told him that even touching my eyelid was super painful. Well, this man did not CARE. At all. He squeezed and pressed and twisted my eyelid—tears started flowing immediately (partly from the pain, partly because the whole situation was a bit overwhelming). I was really suffering.
After five minutes, the nightmare was over. He smiled and just said “Okay,” then led me out. I was completely confused but figured he knew what he was doing. A nurse explained I had a stye, and if I took the medication, it should go away in a few days. I was handed two different antibiotics and an antihistamine. My bag felt like I'd just finished a day of shopping.
Obviously, I deserved a treat—so we bought a super nice shirt for Jasper (my suggestion, hehe—slightly jealous because it looks amazing), a top for me, and then went to Ellie’s Café for a delicious smoothie bowl.
We wandered a bit more through the city, and honestly, Hoi An is the most beautiful and authentic city I’ve seen in Vietnam so far. Since most tourists were just there on day trips, it was pretty empty and peaceful.
After the obligatory postcard hunting session, we went to Bông Taylor, where Bich is the shop owner—we’d heard great things about the place. She was super welcoming, and when we told her we were Lara’s friends (the one who had recommended the shop), she was thrilled and even gave us a good price! She took our measurements, which was actually quite funny for Jasper and me, and then we discussed what we wanted to get made (stay tuned for the big reveal).
We tried white rose dumplings for lunch (a local specialty), checked out of SnapStay Hostel, and moved to Wanderlust Hostel at the beach. Finally, we got to enjoy the sun, tan by the pool, and chill with another cute little doggo named Boogie (who didn't bite me this time, yay).
In the evening, we grabbed a ride back to the city center, had a cocktail, and then dinner at Morning Glory—super nice restaurant with great food and a lovely view. Ordering was, once again, a challenge. The waitress had to tell me five times that the dish I wanted wasn’t possible gluten-free.
Since it was Thursday, and Thursday is party night, we tried one of those wild “buy two, get four free” deals… but we still ended up just having two cocktails for the price of one. Totally fine. We went home a little tipsy and happy.
Jasper was super tired, but I wasn’t, so I started doing my nails (seriously overdue) and sat by the pool, just thinking and daydreaming. When Jasper came out, I told him to sit and enjoy the silence with me. It was such a peaceful and magical moment that I spontaneously suggested going to the beach.
We walked down, and although we weren’t the only ones with that idea, it was still so calm. We hardly spoke—we just watched the sea. Wave after wave, never stopping, never tired. It was probably the most recharging moment I’ve had in months.
I want to be like the ocean. No matter what happens in the world, it’s so tireless, always in its rhythm.
We went to bed around 12:30, after I did a little happy dance (yes, there's a picture). And yet, I still woke up at 5:15—with no alarm. So I thought, let’s see the sunrise and enjoy the calm, empty beach.
HAHA. Little did I know. The beach was packed with Vietnamese people doing tai chi, playing volleyball, digging holes in the sand, and just lying around. A group of Vietnamese people asked me if I wanted to play volleyball with them, so I joined for 30 minutes—and I absolutely loved the experience. We couldn’t really communicate because of my poor Vietnamese, but we understood each other well enough. It was such a heartwarming moment.
Now, Jasper and I are drinking coffee at a beach café and getting ready to try on our clothes at Bich’s tailor store.Meer informatie
Quick Stop in Hue
28 mei 2025, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C
Our night bus to Hue stopped in Tam Coc, so we grabbed dinner (roasted duck!) and a couple of drinks to mentally prepare ourselves for the long ride. We left at 7 PM and decided to watch Anyone But You, squeezing together into the same bunkbed — worked surprisingly well.
Sleeping however did not work: the night wasn’t as restful as I’d hoped. I probably slept about six hours total, but it was pretty disturbed sleep — the kind where you wake up not knowing if it’s 2 AM or Tuesday.
Next morning, my eye was swollen again — super glamorous. So our first stop, at 6 AM, was the pharmacy. We ended up checking out three different places in total, and all of them agreed: some kind of bacterial infection. I got some eye drops that should help… let’s see.
We left our backpacks at a hostel we’d booked for the night — only 2 euros! — and went off in search of breakfast. That turned into a mini comedy show:
“Gluten-free, please. No gluten. Zero gluten. Gluten I cannot. No granola, yes flaxseeds. No sugar in the coffee. No condensed milk. Yes toast — but no gluten. Gluten in bread. Gluten BAD.”
Honestly, it was a fight. But we won. Avocado toast, smoothie bowl, and Vietnamese coffee — victory.
Reinforced and finally caffeinated, we headed to the Citadel, where Jasper — like his dad — slipped right into tour guide mode. He explained everything about the gates, the buildings, the history… he’s great. I pay him in my company. ;)
After all that cultural input, we visited the biggest market in Hue, then went for another coffee. Jasper had a banh mi, and we walked back to the hostel to grab our bags.
We didn’t stay the night after all — instead, we booked the next bus to Hoi An, where we’re currently sitting. A short but nice visit to Hue, and honestly, I’m really glad we shifted our plans a bit to see the old capital.Meer informatie
Two rice grains in Pu Luong
27 mei 2025, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 21 °C
The next stop on our journey: Pu Luong.
Right in the middle of endless rice fields. No tourists. No bars. Barely any restaurants. No highways. Just rice. After the chaos of Ninh Binh, it felt like paradise.
On the day we arrived, we just wandered around aimlessly, tried (and failed) to open an unripe durian, threw some sticks, and generally fooled around while exploring. We stopped at a café for another absolutely delicious Vietnamese coffee, and Jasper called his parents while I wandered a bit more. I ended up playing with a small boy and chatting with two other kids—while their parents filmed us (which was kind of weird). I considered telling them to stop… but hey, if I randomly show up on Vietnamese TV, let me know. Maybe that’s how I become famous.
We tried harvesting rice ourselves—grabbed a stalk, cracked it open, and voilà: our first self-harvested grains! Then we hit a little existential crisis where we didn’t know what to do next. Relaxing is not our strong suit. So naturally, we rented a motorbike.
Since all the helmets were too small, Jasper was given a firefighter helmet, which was honestly iconic. Twice we drove straight into dead ends and got laughed at by locals (fair enough), but eventually we found a gorgeous road with panoramic views over the rice terraces.
Back at our hotel for dinner, I have to mention: this place was amazing. Infinity pool overlooking the fields, giant windows in our room with a stunning view, and—slightly awkward design choice—a toilet and shower separated from the rest of the room by only a glass wall. So yeah, you can literally lie in bed and watch the other person poop. But at this point, Jasper and I have transcended embarrassment. We truly do not care anymore.
Dinner was two kinds of fish, veggies, and rice. Huge portions. Big shoutout to Jasper, the human compost bin, for never letting food go to waste. We didn’t play Kniffel that night—instead, we watched Les Intouchables. What a movie.
Oh, and I forgot to mention: I had and still have some kind of eye infection, which explains why I look especially gorgeous in all the pictures. You’re welcome.
The next day, I finally got my birthday present: Jasper had secretly organized a trek through the rice terraces and a hike into a giant cave, guided by Tom, the hotel owner. The whole tour was breathtaking. We learned so much about the region, the people, the rice farming traditions, and the local culture—all while soaking up some of the best views of our entire trip.
Fun fact: In Pu Luong, elderly married women often have completely black teeth, which they get by chewing on certain plant leaves and charcoal. It’s a traditional sign of marriage and stains their teeth permanently. Also, people in the area live almost entirely self-sustained. They rarely use money—just occasionally to buy clothes—and they live together in tight-knit communities.
Pu Luong was closed off to tourists for a long time, so it remains beautifully untouched and quiet. We even saw the oldest village in the region and visited a local school. The cave we hiked into was absolutely massive, and we descended all the way down. The hike in total took about three hours. It rained, but honestly, who cares?
Back at the hotel, we had lunch, one last strong coffee (naturally), and then left Pu Luong by bus—on the bumpiest road known to mankind. Somehow, I still managed to sleep.
And now? We’re on our way to Hue. Back to civilization.Meer informatie
From dreamy to dead cats
25 mei 2025, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
So far, we had only seen the pretty parts of Ninh Binh—and there was still more to come. But by the end of that day, I saw things I wish I hadn’t, and that will leave me genuinely traumatized for the next few days.
We woke up at 5:30 AM and rode our bikes for about 20 minutes to be the first ones on top of Mua Cave. And yes—it was totally worth it. We felt a bit like a couple in their 50s: going to bed super early to beat the tourist crowds in the morning, then spending the rest of the day reading, eating, and chilling at the hotel. Early retirement vibes. After breakfast, we headed to Dong Van Wetland Nature Reserve. While Trang An had been super busy and touristy, Dong Van was the complete opposite—run entirely by locals, barely any people around, pure quietness, and just idyllic nature. We could observe so many birds and floated peacefully through the wetlands in a little wooden boat with Louane, a local woman who rowed us around. I even spoke a little Vietnamese with her and told her the place was xinh đẹp, meaning beautiful. She smiled—either touched or just politely amused.
Then, somewhere in that calm and peaceful moment, my brain decided it was time to panic about the dog bites on my leg. I asked Jasper what he thought I should do, and that’s when the drama began. He started googling and asking ChatGPT everything about rabies—which, obviously, only made me more terrified. We read that dogs with rabies often have paralyzed back legs and—guess what—the neighbor’s dog? His back legs don’t work. I freaked out. I got really quiet and scared. When we got back, I lay by the pool, headphones in, listening to podcasts and trying to ignore the doom in my head, while Jasper went for a run.
At lunch, I finally asked the woman at the hotel what I should do. She just shrugged and said the puppy is too young to be vaccinated but that he always bites playfully and that nothing would happen. That was a huge relief. Like, instant pressure-off-my-chest kind of relief.
The afternoon plan was to head into Ninh Binh city to check out the walking street and get dinner. The walking street? Pretty touristy, kind of okay, but honestly, not something I’d go back for. Then I had the genius idea to visit a real local supermarket, and we found one on Google Maps. But on the way there, we passed a market near the stadium and decided to walk through it. It was wild. Super busy, super crowded, and honestly overwhelming. People were mostly on motorbikes, zig-zagging through the market like it was a drive-through. At first it was kind of fascinating—but it got denser and denser, and we could barely squeeze through the crowd. I started feeling a little dizzy and off.
And then I saw something that completely shook me: a table with the skinned head of a dead dog, its body laid out next to it, and—on top of it—two dead cats, eyes wide open and empty. I instantly put my hand over my mouth and speed-walked in the direction of what I hoped was the exit. As soon as we got out, the tears came. I just couldn’t help it.
To recover, we went to a normal supermarket, and I bought some VEGETARIAN yogurt for the next morning—because honestly, I had been craving yogurt with fruit like crazy. Also, emotional support yogurt. We grabbed two bottles of soju (rice wine) and, even though I wasn’t really hungry anymore, walked toward a restaurant we found on TripAdvisor (one of only three open). We sat down, quickly realized it wasn’t going to be good or safely gluten-free, and thankfully decided to call a Grab and head back to the hotel—for a very good last dinner and a few comforting rounds of Kniffel.Meer informatie
Rain, Temples and Goats
24 mei 2025, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 26 °C
We were both super excited to arrive in Ninh Binh because – for once – we had booked a really nice hotel: Fairy Mountain Retreat, with a huge pool and a big garden. We’d be sleeping in our own little bungalow with a private bathroom – pure luxury compared to our usual stays.
But first we had to survive the journey: a four-hour bus ride in a very small (even for me!) van, completely packed and full of mosquitoes. By the time we arrived, I was bitten at least 4 times. Jasper managed to kill one, but it had sucked so much blood it looked like a massacre.
So walking into this peaceful little oasis felt like entering heaven. And then – the highlight – we were welcomed by the cutest dog ever (see pic). I was already thinking about how to snuggle him home… until, while playing, he suddenly decided that “let’s bite Lisa” was the game of the day. He bit me four times in the leg and left me bleeding. I‘m 90 percent sure he doesnt have rabies.
It was raining a lot when we arrived, so we were a bit unmotivated at first. But then we thought, “We’re not made of sugar,” grabbed two bikes from the hotel, and rode the 6 km to Tam Coc. On the way, we stopped for a delicious sugar-free coconut coffee (yum!) for me and a smoothie for Jasper. The streets were more like rivers at times, but that just made it more fun.
We saw a lot of goats along the way – I couldn’t get over how cute the baby goats were just casually hanging out on the street (see video).
Back at the hotel, we enjoyed the pool and made the most of the 3-for-2 cocktail happy hour (hihi). For dinner, I got to roll my own grilled fish spring rolls – probably my favorite dish so far!
Next morning: early wake-up to go to the Trang An boat tour at 7 AM – again by bike. We got the front seats on the boat and had amazing views, with almost no other tourists around. Later, we saw where the crowds had gathered and were really glad we started early.
It rained on and off the whole time, but our captain came prepared with umbrellas. The caves and karst mountains were breathtaking, but honestly, the entertainment highlight was the other two tourists on our boat, who spent the entire trip taking selfies and watching TikToks. We couldn’t look away.
Right when we got back to the dock, it started raining like crazy. Jasper said, “Well, if we have to bike back in this, it’s gonna be a vibe.” And a vibe it was – we were absolutely drenched by the time we got back.
After warm showers and a delicious breakfast, we took it easy for a bit. Since it was still raining, we both got hot stone aroma massages at the hotel (Jasper fell asleep). Then we just relaxed, read on our veranda, and later decided to visit Bai Dinh, the biggest pagoda in Vietnam.
We expected tons of tourists, but because of the weather, we were almost alone. It was super impressive – the size of the statues, Buddhas, and towers was just insane. After reaching our 10,000 steps, we headed back for dinner, where we tried local goat meat (who would’ve thought). I really tried not to think about the baby goats from the day before.
Now, after a long day and two rounds of Kniffel (I lost…), we’re more than ready to go to sleep :)Meer informatie
La Han was Fun, u get the pun?
22 mei 2025, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C
Today: Boat trip to Lan Ha Bay.
We weren’t entirely sure if we wanted to visit the area because we’d heard it was overly touristy, crowded, and that the water was quite dirty. But some Dutch travelers we met on the Ha Giang Loop had recommended a specific tour—so we thought, why not give it a try? If you never try, you’ll never know.
And honestly, I learned that you should always see things for yourself instead of blindly trusting what you hear or read—because oh my god, the trip was amazing from start to finish.
Our group was small—just 11 people—and everyone was super friendly, relaxed, outgoing, and interesting to talk to. Our two guides, Tyler and Hannah, along with the bartender Toni, were absolutely lovely.
We started by cruising through Lan Ha Bay, and it felt like a scene straight out of The Beach with Leonardo DiCaprio (watch it if you haven’t!). No other tourist boats in sight—just us on a beautiful little wooden yacht.
Toni soon offered to make cocktails. While most of the group saw that as the perfect excuse to start day drinking, I opted for a fresh mango-passionfruit smoothie, made right on the spot—and it was delicious.
Our first stop was kayaking through a cave that led to a peaceful lagoon. They gave us one-size-fits-all life jackets, which for me meant way too big. I looked like I needed a life jacket just to survive in that life jacket.
The kayaking was pretty relaxing on my end—Jasper had some energy to burn and paddled like a champion, so I basically just lifted my feet and enjoyed the view.
Back on the boat, we were served lunch and later stopped for a swim in another quiet lagoon. Once again, we were the only boat there, and it just felt incredible.
In the afternoon, we visited what they called a sanctuary for groupers—an endemic fish species. But we’re pretty sure it was actually just a fish farm set up for tourists—sanctuary just sounds better than farm, I guess. Still, we got to see some massive fish and even pet them. We got a liiiitttleeeee tiny sunburn, but lisa (clearly the mom for this trip) of course had aloe vera back at the hostel:)
In the evening, I was once again grateful to be traveling with Jasper. I couldn’t decide what to eat—fried rice, pad Thai, or salad—so I ordered all three, took a mini portion from each, and passed the rest to Jasper, who devoured it all without hesitation.
Later, we went for drinks in Cat Ba Town with the people we’d met on the boat, chatted to them, hot recommendations for our next stops and then caught a moto-taxi back to the hostel. Another truly amazing day.Meer informatie
CatBa!! CatBa!!
21 mei 2025, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C
The sleeping bus was a surprisingly comfy way to travel through the country. Sometimes I got woken up by honks or a bump in the road, but overall, it was better than expected—and definitely an experience. I had the deepest and best sleep around 4:30 AM, but guess what happened at 4:31? The driver suddenly started shouting, “CAT BA! CAT BA!” and quite literally threw us off the bus.
That’s when things started to get kind of funny. A small bus picked us up and brought us to the ferry terminal in Haiphong. There, the driver took a picture of us and sent us off on the ferry, where we were definitely the only Europeans—surrounded by cages full of hens, barrels of fish, trucks loaded with vegetables and tons of rice, and a bunch of Vietnamese people on scooters.
On the other side, a taxi driver recognized us (probably from the photo) and drove us all the way to our hostel—and we didn’t even have to pay. We definitely didn’t expect that! We arrived at the hostel around 6:30 AM, but check-in wasn’t until 2 PM. After the Ha Giang Loop, all we wanted was a shower. Luckily, the hostel had a pool—thank god!
So there we were at 6:45 AM, swimming in the pool, followed by breakfast at 7. Then we rented motorbikes and, after a little “getting used to it again,” we rode around the island to explore some beaches. Unfortunately, most of them were pretty dirty and full of plastic. On one beach, we saw women opening mussels right on the shore—were they for food? We weren’t sure.
Later, we hiked in the national park, where we met Leopold, a German guy, and a few others we ended up spending the next two days with. During the hike, it got so hot I started sweating in places I didn’t know existed. My light green shirt had turned dark by the end—so it was definitely time to cool off in the pool again and grab a late lunch. We finally got to check into our room—and jackpot! Even though it had been quite cheap, we ended up with a whole room to ourselves, complete with not one, but two beds and a rainforest shower. After all the traveling and sweating, it felt like pure luxury. We spent a few well-deserved hours in our air-conditioned oasis just resting and recharging.
In the evening, we joined Leopold at his hostel for quiz night. Unfortunately, we came in third place (did you know Vietnam is the second-largest coffee exporter in the world? Or that Saigon was once called the Pearl of the East? We didn’t—but now we do).Meer informatie
Bumpy roads take me home…
19 mei 2025, Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
Another day on the Ha Giang Loop kicked off the way it should: with a strong Vietnamese coffee and a steaming bowl of phở. Fueled and ready, we set off toward a viewpoint that required a short hike. It was hilarious watching the crowd attempt the slippery trail in flip-flops and totally inappropriate shoes—mud and wet stones are not forgiving. Jasper and I, in our gear (proudly Swiss-prepared), passed them with ease and scrambled up some rocks for the ultimate panoramic view. Absolutely worth it.
For lunch, we stopped at a homestay, which meant the usual struggle to find safe, gluten-free food. I hate those sneaky soy sauces. But Jasper has been a true hero—so invested, always explaining the gluten issue to every cook, every host, probably about 10,000 times.
Also, fun fact: Jasper ended up with one of the smallest Easy Rider drivers. Pó, his rider, is basically half his size. You have to see the picture—it’s priceless.
Our second homestay that night was a dream: tucked between rice fields and right next to a waterfall. We jumped into the water to cool off after the long day.
I was the first one jumping head-first - call me stupid, I call it heroic hihi:)
At dinner, one thing was inevitable: happy water. It’s basically corn liquor and, as the name suggests, it’s supposed to make you happy. Mission accomplished—we ended up singing karaoke, skinny dipping in the nearby stream, and laughing all night. The hangover the next morning? Heavy. But totally worth it.
Fun fact: Before each shot, everyone yells, “Một, hai, ba, dô! Hai, ba, dô! Dô, dô, dô!” – i still hear it echoing in my head.
The Ha Giang Loop has been absolutely wild—some of the most breathtaking and diverse scenery I’ve ever seen. But it also stirred something deeper in me. Along the road, we passed many children carrying wood or plants. It hit me hard. School is free in Vietnam, but when work needs to be done and the school is a 1.5-hour walk away, it’s no surprise many don’t go. I can’t stop thinking about them. What are their hopes? Their dreams? Will they ever get the chance to leave, or is this life all they’ll ever know?
Back in Ha Giang City, we had some time to kill before our night bus to Cát Bà Island. We lugged our backpacks to a hostel with a rooftop café, reorganized our stuff, grabbed some food, and brushed our teeth like civilized backpackers. The bus was so late we almost thought it wouldn’t show up—but it finally did. Now we’re stretched out in our bunks, dusty, a bit smelly, completely exhausted, but so, so happy.
Jasper (who's basically a giant) even said the bus is surprisingly comfy—so fingers crossed for a good night’s sleep.
Next stop: Cát Bà Island.Meer informatie
Broken motorbike in the cloudy Ha Giang
18 mei 2025, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 22 °C
We took a bus from Hanoi to the city of Ha Giang, where we stayed in a shared room at a rather rural—to put it nicely—hostel. The next morning, we got up for breakfast, and I had to dig into my gluten-free muesli stash—huge shoutout to Mary, who had bought it during the time in Hong Kong for me. Honestly, I don’t think I’ve been eating much gluten otherwise, though I’m definitely not 100% sure. I’ve been feeling pretty good, aside from a bit of pain that’s been there every 3 to 4 days. It’s not normal, but it’s also not unbearable so far.
We were greeted by Slowly—yes, that’s his actual name—one of our guides, who explained the plan for the next three days. Then we met our drivers. I was happy to be driving with Minh Song, who I accidentally started calling Miso (like the soup). He’s a great driver and fun to talk to, or at least try tp talk to in some vietnamese-english mix.
We set off and covered around 85 km through stunning mountain landscapes, where the mist brushed the peaks, across sunny valleys, through pouring rain, over high passes, and down steep paths—until Jasper’s bike suddenly broke down. The issue was that his driver didn’t have any money to get it fixed on the spot, nor a phone to contact us. In the end, we had to wait about 1.5 hours on the side of the road until my driver reached Jasper, gave the other driver some money, and Jasper’s driver, Bo, returned to us.
Despite this little hiccup, we still fully enjoyed the loop. The sun got out more than expected, thats why i even got a sunburn. We finally arrived at a hotel and were able to take a real shower—OMG! We were absolutely covered in dirt, so it was very, very appreciated. After that, we had a delicious Vietnamese dinner, followed by some beers and ciders, and then a karaoke session—where we discovered that our drivers are also incredibly talented singers (see video; I’m not including the one where Jasper and I are singing—too strong contrast, haha). If they had grown up in Europe or elsewhere, who knows, maybe they could have made a career out of it.
Slowly told us that the only place he’s ever been outside of Ha Giang is Hanoi—and only once. It really hits me once again how lucky we are to travel the world like this. It’s not something to take for granted, and we should be more conscious of that.Meer informatie
Good morning Vietnam
16 mei 2025, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C
Colorful, loud, and vivid – Hanoi.
When I asked Jasper to describe the city in three words, he added in a fourth: chaotic.
On our flight, Jasper had an upgrade to business-class pillow: my shoulder, and slept from takeoff straight through to our happy landing in Hanoi. We grabbed our first Grab (taxi like uber) into the city, checked in at the hostel, and wandered around the Old Quarter. Jasper had his first banh mi (solid 4/10), and I had a coconut — priorities.
Then off we went to a one-star Michelin pho place before heading back to the hostel, both pretty tired and not very talkative anymore.
Our dorm situation? Let’s say... interesting. We shared the room with two slightly weird German guys and were welcomed by a lone pair of violet underwear. I immediately thought: Great. Me and three guys in a room without windows, 33 degrees in Hanoi...
But plot twist: the room turned out to be super well-ventilated, and the AC was set to the perfect temp. I actually had a restful 9-hour sleep, only interrupted once — when one of the guys stumbled in at 4 a.m.
Next morning: early wake-up, a bit of exploring, and a taste of the famous egg coffee. So sweet it should come with a diabetes warning. Jasper went for a noodle soup salad with beef, and then we joined a market tour plus cooking class.
We met some fun people from the hostel and made plans for dinner and drinks later that evening.
But first: massage time at Anna Spa (highly recommended), a quick stop at Train Street (where the train literally brushes past cafés), and a visit to the Temple of Literature. At Anna Spa, the two masseurs were living their best lives, making fun of Jasper for his body and foot size.
We took a Grab back — or tried to. My driver was completely lost. At some point, we ended up in the middle of the street, surrounded by honking cars and motorbikes rushing past us from every direction. Total chaos.
Mom, i‘m glad you did not see ths. At least I was wearing a helmet! (Already a level-up from the Dom Rep.)
Back at the hostel, the driver just grinned, charged me half the price, and said: "Welcome to Vietnam."
Later on, we did a Vietnamese liquor tasting — quite the experience. Dinner was bun cha (7/10), followed by rooftop drinks with the hostel people.
We played a game of guessing people’s nationalities, which lead to funny acquaintances. The night then got a bit out of hand — in the best way.
This morning I actually woke up early enough to stroll through the city on my own for a bit (Jasper had come home later and was in full recovery mode).
We then grabbed a Grab to a pagoda. And can we just say: it’s not just Jasper’s feet or body — his head is clearly also too big for Vietnam (see photo).
Lunch was bun bo nam bo — And wow, I need to learn how to make this at home. It was that good.
To wrap up our Hanoi chapter, we went back to Anna Spa, where she greeted us like old friends. Now we’re sitting on the bus to Ha Giang in the pouring rain (only six hours to go!) and can’t wait to explore the stunning north of this breathtaking country.Meer informatie
Hay day didn’t disappoint
14 mei 2025, Hong Kong ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C
Hong Kong in Two Seconds (Okay, Two Days)
The two days in Hong Kong felt like two seconds. On Tuesday, Jasper’s dad, Stefan, took a day off and took us to mainland China. Destination: Shenzhen.
After immigration, we were welcomed in the most flattering way—about 300 surveillance cameras pointing right at us. So that’s what being a superstar feels like. Fabulous.
We took the metro, which had different temperature zones. We wisely chose “temperate” to avoid freezing or melting. First stop: a peaceful, green park where we hiked up a hill to get a stunning view of Shenzhen, the avant-garde city of skyscrapers and speed. Stefan, our tour guide, absolutely nailed the timing of his stories—like a human audio guide that knew exactly when we’d pass a sight. Tripadvisor: 5/5 stars, would book again.
He even brought us to the 5th tallest tower in the world (599 metres—tragically one metre short of 600). Later, we walked through a massive tech market with 10 floors of pure madness: headphones, fake AirPods, drones, robot pets, lightbulbs, stamps.
Shenzhen was overwhelming, fascinating, and intense. I have to admit, when we crossed the border back into Hong Kong, I felt relief. Everything seemed calmer. People weren’t rushing around like caffeinated bees, and it felt less like the world was about to swallow me. (Dramatic? Maybe. Accurate? Also yes.)
In the evening, we had dinner at a Japanese restaurant. I borrowed Mattea’s clothes and was partner-looking with Stefanie, Jasper’s mom. I kinda felt like part of the family, and it warmed my heart more than the miso soup.
The food? So so so good, you can’t even imagine. But of course, the night didn’t end there.
We headed to a super fancy cocktail bar with expert recommendations. Thanks to my irresistible charm, we even got a little gin tasting (don’t take that too seriously).
Wan Chai Wednesday
The next morning kicked off with a stroll through the botanical garden. We hopped on the “ding ding” tram (which looks exactly like the Night Bus from Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban) and rolled into Wan Chai—a chaotic, colorful, and super lively part of Hong Kong.
In the afternoon, Stefanie took us to the M+ museum to see the Uli Sigg collection of contemporary Chinese art. A true oasis of calm in the middle of the city. 10/10, would recommend if your brain needs a quiet reset.
Next: Mong Kok. We checked out the flower market, bought a coconut on the way (as one does), and then proceeded to nearly demolish the entire mall trying to open it. But we did crack it in the end. hehe:)
Dinner that night was at home with the family. Then Jasper and I headed to the horse races. Yep, I’d never imagined this event could be that huge. We read betting predictions, ignored them, and instead picked horses with fancy names like “Hayday.” Very scientific.
And then? The legendary Wan Chai Wednesday began.
I’ll skip a few details but let’s just say: at one point, I found myself alone in a cab—with both mine AND Jasper’s phones, but no Jasper. Instead, there were two other people and... I ended up dancing on a bar. Yes, ON a bar. Don’t worry, Jasper and I eventually found each other again.
It was great. It was long. It was wild.
It was Wan Chai WednesdayMeer informatie
Peninsula Tea & Lions Rock
12 mei 2025, Hong Kong ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
On the flight to Hong Kong, I slept like a baby. Not sure if it’s my size or the exhaustion, but the seat felt like a royal armchair. The flight attendant even had to wake me up to ask if I wanted breakfast.
After the usual „did my backpack arrive“ - panic, Jasper picked me up and we headed to Hong Kong Island, where I met his lovely family. We went out for dinner—my first Hainanese chicken (delicious)—and then hit a rooftop bar. Great drinks, lots of gossip, and somehow we paid only half the bill. 10/10.
We started the next day by running up to The Peak. Yes, a literal mountain. I didn’t know Hong Kong was this hilly, but my 198 bpm heart rate and my burning calves made sure I will never forget. Anyway the views were great and i admired them through the pain while telling myself that it was character-building.
After breakfast, we explored the city. We strolled through dried fish markets (yes, there were dried sea cucumbers… and no, I still haven’t convinced jasper to eat one yet—bets are open). To balance out the earlier workout, we went full decadence mode with afternoon tea at The Peninsula. Super fancy, but honestly, 100% worth it. We had a full gluten-free étagère and fully embraced the “you only live once” mentality.
We ended the day with a hike up Lion’s Rock for more amazing views - and because more hills, why not?, then dinner at home, and a very stressful Zoom interview for a potential job that required a large glass of wine to recover.
Good night, Hong Kong—you’ve already made quite an impression.Meer informatie
A long way to Hongkong
11 mei 2025, Zwitserland ⋅ 🌙 11 °C
I began thinking about doing this trip in October 2024, when I realized that I wanted to start my Master’s degree right after finishing my Bachelor’s. I told my parents I wanted to go backpacking in Southeast Asia—preferably alone. Guess what? My mom wasn’t exactly thrilled about the idea.
It was kind of a coincidence that, as I was pitching the plan to them, Jasper happened to be at our place. So I just spontaneously asked if he wanted to come with me—and he didn’t say no :)
So here I am now, on my way to the first stop: Hong Kong, where I’ll spend a few days at Jasper’s parents’ place before heading to Hanoi, Vietnam.
I’m currently sitting in front of Gate 8 at Doha Airport in Qatar, waiting for boarding to start. I landed here about 1.5 hours ago, but it feels like only five minutes have passed. I’ve been to Amsterdam and Miami, but this is by far the biggest and most overwhelming airport I’ve ever seen—it took me about 20 minutes just to reach my transfer gate.
The change in climate hit me the moment I stepped off the plane. The humidity must have been at least 99%. Even though I’m tired, I feel incredibly happy. I can already feel the stress and tension of the past weeks melting away, as if my worries are just fading into the warm, heavy air.
I’m hoping to get a few good hours of sleep on the plane and I’m so excited for the next few weeks ahead!Meer informatie
Sand storms and memories
13 januari 2025, Marokko ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C
When I woke up, I saw Nadja already sitting on the dune, waiting for the sunrise. I joined her, and we sat in silence, waiting for the sun to appear. This time, it was different. The wind was still howling, and the flying sand clouded the view. By the time the sun finally peeked through, the wind had only gotten stronger.
As we started walking, it felt like we had stepped straight into a sandstorm. The wind, sun, and swirling sand combined to give me a mild headache, but I knew there was no point in fighting it—I just had to accept it. Within minutes, we were completely covered in sand. And I mean completely. I swear I even had sand between my buttcheeks.
We walked on in the storm, and eventually made it back to M'hamid, where we had started the tour three days earlier. It was time to say goodbye to Iahia and the camel driver (or should I say dromedary driver?). We tried our best to shake off some of the sand before getting into the car and beginning the long drive back to Taroudant.
Sitting in the car now, without the constant flood of new impressions, I finally have time to reflect on the past few days. Morocco is so much more than I imagined. It’s not just the coast with surf spots or the iconic dunes with palm oases. It’s vast mountains, endless dry plains, lush green acacia forests, rivers, and hidden oases. But most importantly, it’s the people who live within these landscapes, using what their environment offers and finding joy in the simplest of things.
I kept thinking about the nomads we’d seen, living with what seems like nothing, yet everything at the same time. Their happiness comes from just being, from living a simple life. I felt a small part of that over the past few days—three days without internet, using my phone only to capture photos. Everything slowed down. The constant rush of everyday life faded away, and I soaked in the present moment more fully.
As we drove on, I stared out at the landscape one last time, realizing that some of the deepest memories come from the simplest of experiences. Morocco gave me more than I could have expected, and a little sand in awkward places was a small price to pay for it.Meer informatie
The big „shmell“ scam
12 januari 2025, Marokko ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
I woke up already half awake—if that makes sense. I had slept terribly that night. It wasn’t because of the cold, but somehow, I ended up with the hardest mattress imaginable. It was so uncomfortable that my hips started hurting every 30 minutes, and I kept waking up to change position. (Am I already this old?) At least the sunrise was spectacular, and for a brief moment, it made me forget the misery of the night.
After breakfast, we set off and walked for a few hours until our first break. We snacked on dates, dried apricots, and nuts, which were so unbelievably good that I’m certain I’ll never find anything like them back in Switzerland. The dates and apricots practically melted on my tongue—pure perfection. We continued walking under the burning sun for another hour before finding some shade under an acacia tree to have lunch. Even though it’s winter here, the midday heat can be intense.
I should probably mention that hygiene had pretty much gone out the window by this point. We all smelled like camels (or worse) by the end of the first day. Our nails, which we both forgot to trim before traveling, were hopelessly dirty, and our hair looked like it had been dipped in oil. Honestly, I’m not sure if shampoo could save us at this point—buzzing it all off might be the only option.
Speaking of smelly camels... After lunch, Nadja and I were chatting with Iahia, trying to improve our Arabic. (We’ve picked up quite a bit and can proudly say we have a solid vocabulary now!) Out of curiosity, we asked him what "camel" is in Arabic. Feeling confident, we started calling our camels by their new Arabic name—until Iahia dropped a bombshell. These weren’t camels. They were dromedaries, which, in Arabic, are called shmells. Nadja and I lost it. We were promised a camel driver and camel trekking, and here we were, trekking with shmells! Scam or not, we were stuck with them.
Before setting off again, we even got to ride the dromedaries for a while. It was so much fun, and I wished it had lasted longer. They’re like horses, but way fluffier and much calmer. Afterward, we walked on and eventually reached our campsite for the last night—a gorgeous palm oasis nestled between the dunes.
After the sunset, while Iahia was busy cooking, Nadja and I climbed the tallest dune nearby. It was January 12th, exactly one year since my grandmother passed away. To honor her, we lit a candle on the dune and watched it burn as the sky shifted from orange to pink and finally faded into darkness.
Back at the campsite, our camel driver revealed a hidden talent: baking flatbread. He made it right on—or rather in—the fireplace. I didn’t get to taste it, but watching the process was fascinating. For dinner, we had tajine, which, as always, was absolutely delicious.
That night, since it was our last, Nadja and I decided to sleep outside on the dunes instead of in our tents. It started off okay, even though the moon was ridiculously bright and a dog wouldn’t stop barking. But around 3 a.m., the wind picked up, and sand started blowing in our faces. After trying to endure it for a while, we gave up and retreated to the tent where we usually ate our meals.
The wind kept getting stronger, and we were honestly a little worried that the tent might collapse on us. But, to our surprise, we survived the night. Adventure complete!Meer informatie
Second Day in the Sahara
11 januari 2025, Marokko ⋅ 🌙 21 °C
When we woke up, it was quite cold, but the golden sky and the sunrise quickly made us forget our freezing hands and faces. The beauty of the morning was enough to warm us—at least mentally—until we could actually heat up with some coffee and tea. A good breakfast followed, and once we’d packed up our things, we set off for the day’s trekking.
We walked for 2–3 hours before stopping for lunch. Afterward, I was handed the rope of two camels and got to show off my immense talent as a camel driver. It was all fun and games until one of the camels decided to drip its saliva on me. Yummy. Despite my new perfume, I was constantly amazed by the ever-changing landscapes. At one point, we were walking over soft, sandy dunes, then suddenly the terrain turned to endless fields of stones stretching for kilometers. A little while later, everything became green, with plants springing up all around us. Some areas were dotted with acacia trees, while in others, we even saw flowers growing.
At one point, we stopped at a mausoleum, which is essentially a house-grave. Nadja, ever the adventurer, found an animal leg and proudly showed it to me like it was some kind of treasure. I wasn’t quite as impressed. For a moment, we were worried that we might actually be camping there (and, let me tell you, I had no desire to sleep next to or above a graveyard). Thankfully, we trekked on for another hour before finally stopping for the night.
This time, we were much faster at setting up our tents, giving us plenty of time to soak in the absolutely stunning sunset. Dinner was once again soup—this time a delicious gluten-free bean soup that I loved—followed by another fantastic tajine. Seriously, I don’t know how Iahia does it, but the man is a culinary genius. And all of this, in the middle of the desert!
We went to sleep in the tents, full and happy, and I couldn’t wait to see what the next day would bring.Meer informatie
From Roads to Dunes
10 januari 2025, Marokko ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
We left Foum-Zguid after breakfast, just as the sun was rising. The colors of the houses, the mountains, and the sand were breathtaking, creating a picture-perfect start to the day. We had another four hours of driving ahead of us, but the stunning landscapes made the time fly by. David and Hamsa shared stories about the country and its people, giving us insight into life here. In one valley, we passed many nomads with their sheep, goats, and camels. At one point, we even had to stop as a group of camels casually crossed the road - desert traffic jam.
We stopped for coffee in Zagora, a pleasant city in the Draa Valley. The others picked up pastries from a bakery, while I bought an avocado from a small market on the side of the road. We continued driving, stopping at a few viewpoints along the way. Each one was more beautiful than the last. By around 2:30, we reached M’hamid, the last village before the desert begins. I ate my avocado with rice crackers that David had kindly bought for me, while the others enjoyed their bread. In M’hamid, the road simply ends, giving way to the vast expanse of the desert.
There, we met Iahia, our cook, and Mubarak, the camel driver. By the time the camels were loaded and everything was ready, it was already 4 p.m. It felt so surreal—I had to remind myself several times that I wasn’t dreaming. I turned around to take it all in: there I was, walking beside camels through rolling dunes under the bright January sun.
At around 6, we stopped at a shaded spot where Iahia and Mubarak set up the main cooking and eating tents. While they worked, we pitched our own tents, drank hot Moroccan tea (a mix of green tea, mint, and plenty of sugar), and watched the sunset. The view was incredible, and I’m pretty sure the photos I took would hold their own in National Geographic.
Dinner was soup and tajine served in the main tent. Unfortunately, I couldn’t have the soup because, although it didn’t contain wheat flour, Iahia had added spaghetti noodles without realizing. Thankfully, the tajine was gluten-free and so delicious that I didn’t mind missing the soup.
Sleeping in the Sahara was an experience in itself. Our sleeping bags, rated for temperatures between -5 and -20 degrees, were absolutely necessary. By 3 a.m., the air was so cold that every part of my body not fully tucked into the sleeping bag (mostly my face) felt frozen. Despite this, I slept surprisingly well. Nadja, however, didn’t sleep as much, but we figured there was still time to get used to sleeping in the desert.Meer informatie
On the Road to Foum-Zguit
9 januari 2025, Marokko ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Today we had breakfast at Complex El Kasbah (we decided to give it another try), and this time we weren’t disappointed. The food was quite good, and they seemed to understand gluten-free options after I showed them a Google Translate note explaining what I could and couldn’t eat.
I’ll keep it short this time since we need to go to bed soon to be ready for the Sahara tomorrow.
David and Hamsa picked us up in Taroudant around 11 a.m., and we drove for five hours to Foum-Zguid. Along the way, the landscapes and vegetation changed several times. We saw argan trees filled with goats climbing them, followed by many acacia trees and bee boxes for honey production. Later, we passed through oases with countless palm trees.
We stopped at a saffron farm to drink saffron tea at the house of a local whom David has known for 15 years. Now we’re staying at a very nice hotel in the middle of nowhere. The garden and rooms are fancy, but dinner was rather strange: they served a kind of Moroccan-Italian fusion dish. It was kefta tagine (essentially meatballs in tomato sauce) paired with spaghetti. So, it was like spaghetti napoletana with a Moroccan twist.
Since I couldn’t eat the spaghetti, they brought me a tuna salad with tomatoes instead. Let’s just say it was a wild combination and leave it at that. Moroccan cuisine can be incredibly delicious, but I’m looking forward to returning home to my usual salads and veggies!
Now, in the morning, we‘re having breakfast and then leaving for the Sahara. I will give my next sign of life on the 13th evening, if i have not been eaten by a camel by then.:))Meer informatie
Adventures, escapes and culture shock
8 januari 2025, Marokko ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
Our day started off quite amusing. This morning, as we went to brush our teeth after breakfast, we were surprised to find a little cat sitting on our sink. We turned on the tap, and the cat, clearly thirsty, happily drank for a while. After letting it enjoy its little moment, we headed out to get cash from the ATM and buy water.
We stopped by a shop selling pretty mugs, and as we browsed, the shopkeeper started chatting with us. He ended up telling us the story of his life, wrapping it up with two life lessons: enjoy your youth and always think a lot about your parents. (Don’t worry, Mom, I already do!)
After this unexpected wisdom, we headed back to camp to check out, enjoying the Riad and its roof terrace one last time. At 11, a taxi driver came to pick us up. He drove us for 1.5 hours to Taroudant, a city nestled between the Atlas and Anti-Atlas mountains. The ride was quiet—almost too quiet—and for a while, we weren’t entirely sure where he was taking us. Thankfully, he eventually stopped in front of a house that turned out to be the Airbnb David, our guide, had organized for us.
Since we had the rest of the day free, we decided to check out the market. Before that, though, we each had a small snack—fruit for me, bread for Nadja, and a protein bar for me. It wasn’t nearly enough, but I’m still here writing this, so clearly I survived.
We wandered into the city without much of a plan. The streets were bustling and full of life, with hardly any tourists around. That’s when I realized my sleeveless top was a poor choice. While my long black pants were fine, my bare arms definitely weren’t. I’m pretty sure I was the only person in a 20-kilometer radius showing any arm skin. It wasn’t ideal, but there wasn’t much I could do except feel slightly out of place.
As we entered the sprawling market, an older man approached us and offered to show us around. Not for money, he said—just to be friendly. He ended up guiding us through what felt like half the market. We visited the Berber area, the Arabic area, and even met some of his friends. Naturally, he also took us to his shop.
That’s where I fell in love—not with a Moroccan guy (don’t worry, Mom), but with a scarf. It was perfect, especially since I really needed to cover my arms. The quality was amazing, and the price was so good that I’d never find anything like it in Switzerland. Obviously, I had to buy it.
Afterward, our guide took us to a restaurant where we could eat tajine, then left to have dinner with his family. Nadja and I kept wandering, and soon another man on a bike stopped us. He presented himself as Ibrahim and asked us where we were from. At some point Nadja mentioned she wanted to buy cinnamon, so he offered to show us where to find it.
On the way, we ended up being shown even more of the market. We passed through another Berber area, carpet shops, jewelry stalls—you name it. At one point, we entered a tiny stone hut where a young man, Ismail, was sitting and eating. They invited us to join, but we just stayed to chat. Ismail helps at Ibrahims shop from time to time, but actually comes from the Mountains, where his family works in agriculture. They told us about Arabic culture, dialects, and history before finally showing us the cinnamon (and, of course, their own shop).
This time, it was a shoe store. Nadja actually wanted shoes, so she tried some on, but after a long back-and-forth, she decided not to buy any. Even another cousin of them arrived with more shoes, trying to concinxe Nadja. Escaping the shop was one of the biggest accomplishments od the day.
We also asked Ibrahim for a good Tajine place and he lead us to the SAME place, where the old man had brought us. I guess this has to be some kind of cousin of all of them. They surely all know eachother. We went back to the b&b and got ready to go out for dinner in a restaurant that Nadja remembered from two years ago.
On our way, we passed the stone wall of Taroudant and caught the sunset, which was stunning. Unfortunately, the food at the restaurant was pretty bad. Looking back, we probably should’ve stuck with the cousin’s place. Now Nadja and I both have heavy bloating. Fingers crossed we’ll feel better tomorrow because David will be picking us up for a long drive to the desert. I’m excited and ready for what’s next!Meer informatie
Cats, Dogs and Spices
7 januari 2025, Marokko ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
Today was a good day. Now, after dinner and lying in bed, I still agree.
After breakfast at 9, we headed to another beach because the waves were smaller there. I really liked this one because you could see all the way to Taghazout. Fouad was our coach, and he started us off with a dry session on the beach to make sure we had the right position on our boards. The surf session wasn’t as great as expected, given the waves, but in the end, I caught one last big green wave and surfed it all the way to the beach. After this heroic moment, I decided to end my surfing for this trip on a high note.
We had couscous for lunch at the beach. This morning, I once again had a long debate with the kitchen guy about whether it was actually gluten-free. Eventually, I gave up. We’ll see tomorrow. (I know, Mom, you’re not happy about this, but so far, I’m feeling good.)
After eating and resting, we walked to Taghazout to check out the cute but very touristy village. On the way back, we noticed the others hadn’t waited for us: our towels, bags—everything—were gone. So, we had to walk all the way back to Tamraght at 3 p.m. under the blazing sun, obviously without water. We had a few dirhams and my phone, but no connection. Somehow, we made it back to camp and took a very refreshing shower.
When Nadja went off for her massage, Max and the Austrian guy joined me for a trip to the small market around the corner. We bought spices and a ginger smoothie (because hydration matters eventually) and wandered around the town. It’s way less touristy than Taghazout but also much dirtier. Garbage is everywhere—there aren’t even any bins. I feel like if they had some kind of recycling system and, you know, actual bins, the place would look completely different. But I guess that’s easier said than done. Also, the number of cats and dogs in this town is wild! Surprisingly, they all look super healthy—apparently, people feed them everywhere.
After coming back, we decided to join yoga at 6. It was a very relaxing (read: borderline boring) stretching session, but at least it happened during sunset. Honestly, I’ve never had such a view while doing downward-facing dog or any other yoga position.
For dinner, we had tajine again—very welcomed, as always. We stayed at the table for a long time, chatting with the others from the camp. Then we talked about our plans for tomorrow and headed to bed. Tomorrow, we’re off to Taroudant—our first stop on the way to the desert! I’m super excited!Meer informatie
ReizigerNice to have a good trip. It was more than 50 years ago i was in Marocko. But as always the time change and im not so sure if the changing makes the life better? But just enjoy the trip and have fun.
ReizigerMy friend Nadja was also there 4 years ago and told me that a lot has changed and become much more touristic. However I think it depends on the area. Still, we had a great time and i‘m sure for Nadja it was also quite interesting to see how a „tourism boom“ can affect a place...
Hamam & Massage Heaven
6 januari 2025, Marokko ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
This morning, we froze our butts off while surfing. The day started with us having breakfast on the rooftop—again in the dark, because apparently, we’re committed to the “rustic adventurer” vibe. By 8 a.m., we were at the surf spot, ready to catch stronger waves than the day before.
Catching a wave was like winning a battle, but every victory came with a price: being pushed all the way back to shore and then fighting our way back to the lineup. At one point, Nadja and I were both trying to paddle past the breaking waves, only to realize we were going absolutely nowhere. Every few meters of progress was met with yet another wave slapping us right back to where we started.
To make matters worse, the sun wasn’t shining, so it was freezing. My whole body was shaking, and when my toes started turning suspiciously white, I decided that was my cue to bail. (Don’t worry, my toes are fine now.) Once out of the water, Philip—a guy from our surf camp—Nadja, and I walked back to The Riat (our camp) for a hot shower. On the way, we made a pit stop for coffee (Philip and me) and an Oreo chocolate milkshake (Nadja). Priorities.
After our shower, we had lunch on the terrace, where I heroically tried to study a bit. Eventually, the sun came out, and things started to feel less like north pole.
By 4 p.m., it was time for our Hammam and Massage appointment. I had never been to a hammam before, but let me just say—it was an experience. First, we were served Moroccan tea (complete with two obligatory sugar cubes), and then we were handed two bags for our clothes.
Two women brought us to another room, where they massaged us with oil and scrubbed us from head to toe—basically exfoliating us into a state of rebirth. They even removed the calluses from our feet (which, to be honest, felt a little personal). Afterward, they washed us with some special soap, gave us a head massage with shampoo, and finished with a fancy hair treatment.
The hammam hour was followed by an hour-long relax massage. And wow, it lived up to its name—I think I melted into the table at one point. Nadja loved it so much she immediately booked another session for tomorrow.
After this blissful experience, we went back to the camp to watch the sunset, had another shower (we’re basically clean freaks now), and then walked down to the beach for dinner. We were craving tajine, but, naturally, all the restaurants we tried were out of it. After wandering around, we finally found a tiny spot right next to The Riat, where the staff assured me (after some good French-English-Moroccan negotiations) that their tajine was gluten-free.
It was just amazing. The food was delicious, and the people working there were incredibly kind, which made the whole experience even better.
Tomorrow is supposed to be sunny and warm, and I can’t wait. Fingers crossed we can actually feel our toes after surfing this time!Meer informatie
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Reiziger
Also ich find ja sOvaltineglace wild😂😂
ReizigerDaas hemmer leider ned probiert😅 mues wider zrugg