Warm and Sunny January
January 5, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
Yesterday, when I left Zurich in the morning it was minus 5 degrees, very foggy and the streets were pure ice. Switzerland really wanted to tell me to get away as soon as possible. I took the train to Basel and met Nadja on the Bus to the Euroairport. We had booked an Easyjet flight to Agadir with only handluggage. The hand luggage - thing had caused quite a tragedy & a small panic attack the night before but let‘s not get into that… In the bus we got a message from easyjet that the flight was going to be delayed 2 hours, but then at the airport we didnt read that anywhere anymore, so after 2 hours, the security and passport control and the boarding, we were sitting on the plane, ready to depart in time.
We were lucky to have a window seat, so we got to see the Atlas from above, otherwise i just read a bit and slept.
In Agadir we got picked up by Mustafa who drove us to the camp in Tamraght. The car ride was quite ehm impressive/shocking/scary - anyways he drove like crazy through the traffic, but we got to see a very pretty sunset, which deistracted us from the street and his way of driving:). When we arrived at camp they gave us dinner & all the information we needed, showed us our room and we went go sleep. Today we woke up at 7 and had breakfast on the roof terrace in the dark. It was quite cold so early in the morning so we were all wearing warm clothes. There was freshly squeezed orange juice ready for us and they had glutenfree pancakes, fruits, yogurt, nuts and honey. A perfect start of the day. We got ready quickly and made our way down to choose out surfboards, leashes and wetsuit and headed to the besch with one of the buses. At the beach it was very cold since the sun hadnt risen, especially the sand and our feet were freezing, so we put our wetsuit on and started running around to keep us warm. Eventually the warm-up started and shortly after we were ready to catch some waves. As we were walking to the water we caught the flrst rays of sun and it was just beautiful:) Nadja and I are in the same group and we had a lot of fun. The first couple of waves were gread and I was able to catch them. As time went by and i got more and more tired, also the waves got pretty bad. Therefore after about 2hrs we decided to head back to the beach, where we had lunch, sunbathed, read a bit and walked around. Luckily, thanks to the sun, it had gotten much warmer than in the morning. We walked to a little café at the beach to get a smoothie and passed by a Tajine restaurant (picture of the elder man). After we had walked back to the camp we finally got to appreciate how pretty it is by sunlight. I‘ve rarely seen such a pretty building and I love how everything is so „open“ and how green it is. We stayed on the rooftop terrace and read, talked to others and I even studied, until the sunset. After sunset we were served typical maroccan tajine for dinner, which was delicious. However, Nadja and I both still struggle a bit with all the beans and this food which is rather jard to digest.. let‘s hope we get used to it fast! After dinner we stayed at the table with some other people from camp and chatted with them. Now we decided to head to our room to get enough sleep for the day tomorrow:)Read more
Hamam & Massage Heaven
January 6, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
This morning, we froze our butts off while surfing. The day started with us having breakfast on the rooftop—again in the dark, because apparently, we’re committed to the “rustic adventurer” vibe. By 8 a.m., we were at the surf spot, ready to catch stronger waves than the day before.
Catching a wave was like winning a battle, but every victory came with a price: being pushed all the way back to shore and then fighting our way back to the lineup. At one point, Nadja and I were both trying to paddle past the breaking waves, only to realize we were going absolutely nowhere. Every few meters of progress was met with yet another wave slapping us right back to where we started.
To make matters worse, the sun wasn’t shining, so it was freezing. My whole body was shaking, and when my toes started turning suspiciously white, I decided that was my cue to bail. (Don’t worry, my toes are fine now.) Once out of the water, Philip—a guy from our surf camp—Nadja, and I walked back to The Riat (our camp) for a hot shower. On the way, we made a pit stop for coffee (Philip and me) and an Oreo chocolate milkshake (Nadja). Priorities.
After our shower, we had lunch on the terrace, where I heroically tried to study a bit. Eventually, the sun came out, and things started to feel less like north pole.
By 4 p.m., it was time for our Hammam and Massage appointment. I had never been to a hammam before, but let me just say—it was an experience. First, we were served Moroccan tea (complete with two obligatory sugar cubes), and then we were handed two bags for our clothes.
Two women brought us to another room, where they massaged us with oil and scrubbed us from head to toe—basically exfoliating us into a state of rebirth. They even removed the calluses from our feet (which, to be honest, felt a little personal). Afterward, they washed us with some special soap, gave us a head massage with shampoo, and finished with a fancy hair treatment.
The hammam hour was followed by an hour-long relax massage. And wow, it lived up to its name—I think I melted into the table at one point. Nadja loved it so much she immediately booked another session for tomorrow.
After this blissful experience, we went back to the camp to watch the sunset, had another shower (we’re basically clean freaks now), and then walked down to the beach for dinner. We were craving tajine, but, naturally, all the restaurants we tried were out of it. After wandering around, we finally found a tiny spot right next to The Riat, where the staff assured me (after some good French-English-Moroccan negotiations) that their tajine was gluten-free.
It was just amazing. The food was delicious, and the people working there were incredibly kind, which made the whole experience even better.
Tomorrow is supposed to be sunny and warm, and I can’t wait. Fingers crossed we can actually feel our toes after surfing this time!Read more
Cats, Dogs and Spices
January 7, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
Today was a good day. Now, after dinner and lying in bed, I still agree.
After breakfast at 9, we headed to another beach because the waves were smaller there. I really liked this one because you could see all the way to Taghazout. Fouad was our coach, and he started us off with a dry session on the beach to make sure we had the right position on our boards. The surf session wasn’t as great as expected, given the waves, but in the end, I caught one last big green wave and surfed it all the way to the beach. After this heroic moment, I decided to end my surfing for this trip on a high note.
We had couscous for lunch at the beach. This morning, I once again had a long debate with the kitchen guy about whether it was actually gluten-free. Eventually, I gave up. We’ll see tomorrow. (I know, Mom, you’re not happy about this, but so far, I’m feeling good.)
After eating and resting, we walked to Taghazout to check out the cute but very touristy village. On the way back, we noticed the others hadn’t waited for us: our towels, bags—everything—were gone. So, we had to walk all the way back to Tamraght at 3 p.m. under the blazing sun, obviously without water. We had a few dirhams and my phone, but no connection. Somehow, we made it back to camp and took a very refreshing shower.
When Nadja went off for her massage, Max and the Austrian guy joined me for a trip to the small market around the corner. We bought spices and a ginger smoothie (because hydration matters eventually) and wandered around the town. It’s way less touristy than Taghazout but also much dirtier. Garbage is everywhere—there aren’t even any bins. I feel like if they had some kind of recycling system and, you know, actual bins, the place would look completely different. But I guess that’s easier said than done. Also, the number of cats and dogs in this town is wild! Surprisingly, they all look super healthy—apparently, people feed them everywhere.
After coming back, we decided to join yoga at 6. It was a very relaxing (read: borderline boring) stretching session, but at least it happened during sunset. Honestly, I’ve never had such a view while doing downward-facing dog or any other yoga position.
For dinner, we had tajine again—very welcomed, as always. We stayed at the table for a long time, chatting with the others from the camp. Then we talked about our plans for tomorrow and headed to bed. Tomorrow, we’re off to Taroudant—our first stop on the way to the desert! I’m super excited!Read more
Adventures, escapes and culture shock
January 8, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
Our day started off quite amusing. This morning, as we went to brush our teeth after breakfast, we were surprised to find a little cat sitting on our sink. We turned on the tap, and the cat, clearly thirsty, happily drank for a while. After letting it enjoy its little moment, we headed out to get cash from the ATM and buy water.
We stopped by a shop selling pretty mugs, and as we browsed, the shopkeeper started chatting with us. He ended up telling us the story of his life, wrapping it up with two life lessons: enjoy your youth and always think a lot about your parents. (Don’t worry, Mom, I already do!)
After this unexpected wisdom, we headed back to camp to check out, enjoying the Riad and its roof terrace one last time. At 11, a taxi driver came to pick us up. He drove us for 1.5 hours to Taroudant, a city nestled between the Atlas and Anti-Atlas mountains. The ride was quiet—almost too quiet—and for a while, we weren’t entirely sure where he was taking us. Thankfully, he eventually stopped in front of a house that turned out to be the Airbnb David, our guide, had organized for us.
Since we had the rest of the day free, we decided to check out the market. Before that, though, we each had a small snack—fruit for me, bread for Nadja, and a protein bar for me. It wasn’t nearly enough, but I’m still here writing this, so clearly I survived.
We wandered into the city without much of a plan. The streets were bustling and full of life, with hardly any tourists around. That’s when I realized my sleeveless top was a poor choice. While my long black pants were fine, my bare arms definitely weren’t. I’m pretty sure I was the only person in a 20-kilometer radius showing any arm skin. It wasn’t ideal, but there wasn’t much I could do except feel slightly out of place.
As we entered the sprawling market, an older man approached us and offered to show us around. Not for money, he said—just to be friendly. He ended up guiding us through what felt like half the market. We visited the Berber area, the Arabic area, and even met some of his friends. Naturally, he also took us to his shop.
That’s where I fell in love—not with a Moroccan guy (don’t worry, Mom), but with a scarf. It was perfect, especially since I really needed to cover my arms. The quality was amazing, and the price was so good that I’d never find anything like it in Switzerland. Obviously, I had to buy it.
Afterward, our guide took us to a restaurant where we could eat tajine, then left to have dinner with his family. Nadja and I kept wandering, and soon another man on a bike stopped us. He presented himself as Ibrahim and asked us where we were from. At some point Nadja mentioned she wanted to buy cinnamon, so he offered to show us where to find it.
On the way, we ended up being shown even more of the market. We passed through another Berber area, carpet shops, jewelry stalls—you name it. At one point, we entered a tiny stone hut where a young man, Ismail, was sitting and eating. They invited us to join, but we just stayed to chat. Ismail helps at Ibrahims shop from time to time, but actually comes from the Mountains, where his family works in agriculture. They told us about Arabic culture, dialects, and history before finally showing us the cinnamon (and, of course, their own shop).
This time, it was a shoe store. Nadja actually wanted shoes, so she tried some on, but after a long back-and-forth, she decided not to buy any. Even another cousin of them arrived with more shoes, trying to concinxe Nadja. Escaping the shop was one of the biggest accomplishments od the day.
We also asked Ibrahim for a good Tajine place and he lead us to the SAME place, where the old man had brought us. I guess this has to be some kind of cousin of all of them. They surely all know eachother. We went back to the b&b and got ready to go out for dinner in a restaurant that Nadja remembered from two years ago.
On our way, we passed the stone wall of Taroudant and caught the sunset, which was stunning. Unfortunately, the food at the restaurant was pretty bad. Looking back, we probably should’ve stuck with the cousin’s place. Now Nadja and I both have heavy bloating. Fingers crossed we’ll feel better tomorrow because David will be picking us up for a long drive to the desert. I’m excited and ready for what’s next!Read more
On the Road to Foum-Zguit
January 9, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Today we had breakfast at Complex El Kasbah (we decided to give it another try), and this time we weren’t disappointed. The food was quite good, and they seemed to understand gluten-free options after I showed them a Google Translate note explaining what I could and couldn’t eat.
I’ll keep it short this time since we need to go to bed soon to be ready for the Sahara tomorrow.
David and Hamsa picked us up in Taroudant around 11 a.m., and we drove for five hours to Foum-Zguid. Along the way, the landscapes and vegetation changed several times. We saw argan trees filled with goats climbing them, followed by many acacia trees and bee boxes for honey production. Later, we passed through oases with countless palm trees.
We stopped at a saffron farm to drink saffron tea at the house of a local whom David has known for 15 years. Now we’re staying at a very nice hotel in the middle of nowhere. The garden and rooms are fancy, but dinner was rather strange: they served a kind of Moroccan-Italian fusion dish. It was kefta tagine (essentially meatballs in tomato sauce) paired with spaghetti. So, it was like spaghetti napoletana with a Moroccan twist.
Since I couldn’t eat the spaghetti, they brought me a tuna salad with tomatoes instead. Let’s just say it was a wild combination and leave it at that. Moroccan cuisine can be incredibly delicious, but I’m looking forward to returning home to my usual salads and veggies!
Now, in the morning, we‘re having breakfast and then leaving for the Sahara. I will give my next sign of life on the 13th evening, if i have not been eaten by a camel by then.:))Read more
From Roads to Dunes
January 10, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
We left Foum-Zguid after breakfast, just as the sun was rising. The colors of the houses, the mountains, and the sand were breathtaking, creating a picture-perfect start to the day. We had another four hours of driving ahead of us, but the stunning landscapes made the time fly by. David and Hamsa shared stories about the country and its people, giving us insight into life here. In one valley, we passed many nomads with their sheep, goats, and camels. At one point, we even had to stop as a group of camels casually crossed the road - desert traffic jam.
We stopped for coffee in Zagora, a pleasant city in the Draa Valley. The others picked up pastries from a bakery, while I bought an avocado from a small market on the side of the road. We continued driving, stopping at a few viewpoints along the way. Each one was more beautiful than the last. By around 2:30, we reached M’hamid, the last village before the desert begins. I ate my avocado with rice crackers that David had kindly bought for me, while the others enjoyed their bread. In M’hamid, the road simply ends, giving way to the vast expanse of the desert.
There, we met Iahia, our cook, and Mubarak, the camel driver. By the time the camels were loaded and everything was ready, it was already 4 p.m. It felt so surreal—I had to remind myself several times that I wasn’t dreaming. I turned around to take it all in: there I was, walking beside camels through rolling dunes under the bright January sun.
At around 6, we stopped at a shaded spot where Iahia and Mubarak set up the main cooking and eating tents. While they worked, we pitched our own tents, drank hot Moroccan tea (a mix of green tea, mint, and plenty of sugar), and watched the sunset. The view was incredible, and I’m pretty sure the photos I took would hold their own in National Geographic.
Dinner was soup and tajine served in the main tent. Unfortunately, I couldn’t have the soup because, although it didn’t contain wheat flour, Iahia had added spaghetti noodles without realizing. Thankfully, the tajine was gluten-free and so delicious that I didn’t mind missing the soup.
Sleeping in the Sahara was an experience in itself. Our sleeping bags, rated for temperatures between -5 and -20 degrees, were absolutely necessary. By 3 a.m., the air was so cold that every part of my body not fully tucked into the sleeping bag (mostly my face) felt frozen. Despite this, I slept surprisingly well. Nadja, however, didn’t sleep as much, but we figured there was still time to get used to sleeping in the desert.Read more
Second Day in the Sahara
January 11, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ 🌙 21 °C
When we woke up, it was quite cold, but the golden sky and the sunrise quickly made us forget our freezing hands and faces. The beauty of the morning was enough to warm us—at least mentally—until we could actually heat up with some coffee and tea. A good breakfast followed, and once we’d packed up our things, we set off for the day’s trekking.
We walked for 2–3 hours before stopping for lunch. Afterward, I was handed the rope of two camels and got to show off my immense talent as a camel driver. It was all fun and games until one of the camels decided to drip its saliva on me. Yummy. Despite my new perfume, I was constantly amazed by the ever-changing landscapes. At one point, we were walking over soft, sandy dunes, then suddenly the terrain turned to endless fields of stones stretching for kilometers. A little while later, everything became green, with plants springing up all around us. Some areas were dotted with acacia trees, while in others, we even saw flowers growing.
At one point, we stopped at a mausoleum, which is essentially a house-grave. Nadja, ever the adventurer, found an animal leg and proudly showed it to me like it was some kind of treasure. I wasn’t quite as impressed. For a moment, we were worried that we might actually be camping there (and, let me tell you, I had no desire to sleep next to or above a graveyard). Thankfully, we trekked on for another hour before finally stopping for the night.
This time, we were much faster at setting up our tents, giving us plenty of time to soak in the absolutely stunning sunset. Dinner was once again soup—this time a delicious gluten-free bean soup that I loved—followed by another fantastic tajine. Seriously, I don’t know how Iahia does it, but the man is a culinary genius. And all of this, in the middle of the desert!
We went to sleep in the tents, full and happy, and I couldn’t wait to see what the next day would bring.Read more
The big „shmell“ scam
January 12, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
I woke up already half awake—if that makes sense. I had slept terribly that night. It wasn’t because of the cold, but somehow, I ended up with the hardest mattress imaginable. It was so uncomfortable that my hips started hurting every 30 minutes, and I kept waking up to change position. (Am I already this old?) At least the sunrise was spectacular, and for a brief moment, it made me forget the misery of the night.
After breakfast, we set off and walked for a few hours until our first break. We snacked on dates, dried apricots, and nuts, which were so unbelievably good that I’m certain I’ll never find anything like them back in Switzerland. The dates and apricots practically melted on my tongue—pure perfection. We continued walking under the burning sun for another hour before finding some shade under an acacia tree to have lunch. Even though it’s winter here, the midday heat can be intense.
I should probably mention that hygiene had pretty much gone out the window by this point. We all smelled like camels (or worse) by the end of the first day. Our nails, which we both forgot to trim before traveling, were hopelessly dirty, and our hair looked like it had been dipped in oil. Honestly, I’m not sure if shampoo could save us at this point—buzzing it all off might be the only option.
Speaking of smelly camels... After lunch, Nadja and I were chatting with Iahia, trying to improve our Arabic. (We’ve picked up quite a bit and can proudly say we have a solid vocabulary now!) Out of curiosity, we asked him what "camel" is in Arabic. Feeling confident, we started calling our camels by their new Arabic name—until Iahia dropped a bombshell. These weren’t camels. They were dromedaries, which, in Arabic, are called shmells. Nadja and I lost it. We were promised a camel driver and camel trekking, and here we were, trekking with shmells! Scam or not, we were stuck with them.
Before setting off again, we even got to ride the dromedaries for a while. It was so much fun, and I wished it had lasted longer. They’re like horses, but way fluffier and much calmer. Afterward, we walked on and eventually reached our campsite for the last night—a gorgeous palm oasis nestled between the dunes.
After the sunset, while Iahia was busy cooking, Nadja and I climbed the tallest dune nearby. It was January 12th, exactly one year since my grandmother passed away. To honor her, we lit a candle on the dune and watched it burn as the sky shifted from orange to pink and finally faded into darkness.
Back at the campsite, our camel driver revealed a hidden talent: baking flatbread. He made it right on—or rather in—the fireplace. I didn’t get to taste it, but watching the process was fascinating. For dinner, we had tajine, which, as always, was absolutely delicious.
That night, since it was our last, Nadja and I decided to sleep outside on the dunes instead of in our tents. It started off okay, even though the moon was ridiculously bright and a dog wouldn’t stop barking. But around 3 a.m., the wind picked up, and sand started blowing in our faces. After trying to endure it for a while, we gave up and retreated to the tent where we usually ate our meals.
The wind kept getting stronger, and we were honestly a little worried that the tent might collapse on us. But, to our surprise, we survived the night. Adventure complete!Read more
Sand storms and memories
January 13, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C
When I woke up, I saw Nadja already sitting on the dune, waiting for the sunrise. I joined her, and we sat in silence, waiting for the sun to appear. This time, it was different. The wind was still howling, and the flying sand clouded the view. By the time the sun finally peeked through, the wind had only gotten stronger.
As we started walking, it felt like we had stepped straight into a sandstorm. The wind, sun, and swirling sand combined to give me a mild headache, but I knew there was no point in fighting it—I just had to accept it. Within minutes, we were completely covered in sand. And I mean completely. I swear I even had sand between my buttcheeks.
We walked on in the storm, and eventually made it back to M'hamid, where we had started the tour three days earlier. It was time to say goodbye to Iahia and the camel driver (or should I say dromedary driver?). We tried our best to shake off some of the sand before getting into the car and beginning the long drive back to Taroudant.
Sitting in the car now, without the constant flood of new impressions, I finally have time to reflect on the past few days. Morocco is so much more than I imagined. It’s not just the coast with surf spots or the iconic dunes with palm oases. It’s vast mountains, endless dry plains, lush green acacia forests, rivers, and hidden oases. But most importantly, it’s the people who live within these landscapes, using what their environment offers and finding joy in the simplest of things.
I kept thinking about the nomads we’d seen, living with what seems like nothing, yet everything at the same time. Their happiness comes from just being, from living a simple life. I felt a small part of that over the past few days—three days without internet, using my phone only to capture photos. Everything slowed down. The constant rush of everyday life faded away, and I soaked in the present moment more fully.
As we drove on, I stared out at the landscape one last time, realizing that some of the deepest memories come from the simplest of experiences. Morocco gave me more than I could have expected, and a little sand in awkward places was a small price to pay for it.Read more
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