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Brian Gallagher
Brian Gallagher

Brian Gallagher

traveled in 4 countries Read more
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  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 9, 10 & 11. Florence.

    September 4, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Our relocation to Florence created no problems for us but the conductor on the train was run ragged by people trying to avoid paying. You had to hand it to him, In difficult circumstances he did a good job.
    We are staying on the outskirts of town and the Via Francesco runs practically past our front door. It will reduce the first day's walk by over 3 kms.
    Our major task here is to visit the Basilica Santa Croce for our first stamp in the pilgrim passport. We were unsuccessful on the Sunday ( bookshop in Basilica closed) but today we succeeded.
    It was on the mid 90's we were here last during a two week Italian course. Shirl used to sightsee in the morning whilst I toiled in the classroom. We used to meet early afternoon in the Piazza della Signorina by the statue of David. It's all changed as the steps have been removed.
    We have revisited all the popular places along with thousand of other tourists. The queues for the Uffizi, Duomo and the Basilica were huge. The city is taking it in.
    We are anxious to start walking tomorrow and our plans are well advanced. Some of the places we were going to stay in are closed. They only open for the summer. It means a couple of longer days but it's manageable. There are several stages we won't due as the distances between accomodation are too long for us.
    We are ready to go and looking forward to tomorrow.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 8. Pistoia

    September 1, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We were surprised this morning as we were able to sight see. The forecast was for rain & thunderstorms last night but not much eventuated. So off we went having our normal coffee and brioche. I have just trained the barista to serve Shirl's coffee as she likes it. An expresso with a little hot water. They say "un americano" . I say no and eventually She got the message.
    Our intention was to visit the Fortress of Santa Barbara first but a pleasant surprise awaited us. The Dominican Library was open. We tried to visit yesterday but it was closed. An enthusiastic young man gave us a personal tour. The library itself was not much to see but we saw some interesting frescoes and sketches. At one time it was the friars intention to have a museum of sketches. These sketches are the artists design for the frescoes which are painted over them. They have technique which paints a coat over the fresco and when it sets they remove it and adhere to a plaster base. The original sketch is revealed underneath. I was allowed to take a photo of one example.
    One corridor in the building had its walls covered in the original sketches.
    Did you know the Dominican's are "The dogs of God". (Domini cane).
    Another coffee and brioche and then we visited St Paul's with its bare interior walls. No frescoes remain.
    Finally we arrived at the Fortress. What a disappointment. A derelict dump.
    A final Pistoia gelato and we headed home with threatening clouds above. They disappeared after several hours. The forecast is for storms tonight with up to 10 deg drop in temp. Fingers crossed.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 7. Frescoes and Ceilings in Pistoia.

    August 31, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Pistoia, Italy's cultural capital for 2017, has many secrets to reveal, and this morning we found some of its frescoes and ceilings.
    There are traces of frescoes on all the walls of the churches and historical buildings. One can only wonder at what wonderful sight it must have been before time and neglect reduced their appearance.
    The wooden painted ceilings with their enormous beams makes me wonder about their construction. Quite a feat to man handle them into position.
    A very interesting morning which ended with gelato and Shirl jealously guarding hers from the licking ice cream immigrant, should he appear.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 6. Domesticity in Pistoia

    August 30, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Today was the day for washing and sorting ourselves out before we head off to Firenze and then the Via Francesco.
    I am busy finding accommodation for the walk. Due to the size and isolation of some of the places it involves a lot of work to choose the right option.
    I have included some photos from yesterday.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 5. Pistoia PM.

    August 30, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    After lunch we headed off to the Spedale Del Ceppo, a former hospital, now just a blood donor's clinic. The front of the building is decorated with medallions by Della Robbia and Benedetto Buglioni.
    From the 17th century the hospital was home to a medical-surgical school whose clients were the dead from the hospital and the prisons, bisected on a marble slab in the anatomical theatre.
    From here we gained access to the underground tour.
    As the city expanded its wall did also and the tour was along the former river Brana now diverted. Over time roads,walls and buildings were built over the river. It was interesting to learn of the city's history through the foundations.
    There were two former mill wheels. One was used by the blacksmith the other by the miller.
    The hospital's toilets and waste products emptied into the river where the people washed their clothes and was responsible for 2/3rds of the city dying from the Black Plague.
    The excavation of the now dry river bed is an ongoing project, and knowing the Italians, I doubt if it will ever be finished.
    An interesting tour and recommended.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 5. Pistoia AM

    August 30, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Well the heavens opened last night, thunder, lightning and hail. It appears there's a change coming. Hopefully cooler weather.
    After purchasing tickets for this afternoon's tour we visited some of the churches. There are lots of them. In the U.K. It's a pub on every corner, here it's a church.
    Pistoia has a reputation for its fine pulpits and so we went to see the two finest examples. The ones in St Andrea and San Giovanni Fuorcivitas.
    We preferred the one in San Giovanni. As you will know they have the symbols on them for Mathew(prayer book), Mark (Lion) ,Luke (ox) and John (eagle).
    The ceilings(wooden) were excellent but sadly the frescoes that once covered the interior walls have all but disappeared.
    The best frescoes we have seen are in the tiny Holy Trinity Chapel, Hrastovlji in Slovenia.
    The churches here have a lot of white and green marble. It must be a Tuscan thing because Sienna Duomo has the same features.
    It was a pleasant morning and in the narrow alleys the temp was bearable.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 4. Pistoia.

    August 28, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    When checking my savings account last night there were 4 unauthorised transactions made in Kangaroo Point. The bank had sent a new card to Shirley which was taken from the letter box and used. So late last night I was on the phone to Sydney to advise the bank. So first thing we did the shopping.(we have to eat) Then coffee and brioche ciocolata. It is interesting to see how people attack the brioche. Shirl and I are nibblers. We start on the outside and work towards the Nutella centre.
    Into town to print out the card dispute form. The staff at the town hall were great but required passport details before I could use the internet. This necessitated a trip back to our apartment.
    Eventually all was completed and we celebrated with a gelato. Whilst eating an immigrant came up and said he wanted to lick the ice-cream. There was now way Shirl was going to let him lick her gelato. He just wanted one. I told him to order one and I would pay. He went off happily licking his ice-cream not Shirley's
    There was something brewing on the surrounding mountains and it looks like (we hope) that a storm is brewing and the hot weather will go.
    The security on our front door is over the top. That's what we hope and not something we need to be concerned about.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 3. Pistoia.

    August 27, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    There were two places we wished to see before breakfast.
    To view the biggest sundial in the world inside the Basilica San Petronio. 67 m in length built for the study of the sun's revolutions, studied through a hole created in the dome. Created in 1655. The dates and times of the sun striking the sundial are listed on a poster near the gift office.
    Today it would happen when we were on the train.
    The second visit was to the chords di Santa Maria della Vitae to view the Compianto, a earthenware sculpture composed of seven natural size statues. Unlucky again as the church was closed.
    We settled for a coffee and brioche ciocolata.
    37+ here in Pistoia but the apartment is great and comfortable. Arrived too late to do the shopping but there is pasta and sauce here for us to cook.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 2. Exploring Bologna.

    August 26, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    In the cool of the morning we strolled up the porticos of the Via dell'Indipendenza to visit the Parco Montagnola passing through the market where you keep your hands on your valuables. The park was a disappointment, used as a camping ground for the immigrants who litter the park with rubbish. We passed quickly through it to the University Botanical Gardens. Not much open there although a queue had formed at a door due to be opened at 0830. It was after 10.
    The University museum was well worth the visit with magnificent ceilings and frescos. They have a wonderful collection of exhibits, as you would expect from the world's oldest University. It's naval rooms full of model ships were extraordinary.
    I gave a lecture in an empty auditorium and those not present missed my enlightening thoughts on the world. Shirl didn't seem impressed.
    We had a pleasant surprise in the Oratory of Santa Cécilia. Beautiful frescoes as where the ones in the Basilica of Giacomo Maggiore, where I practiced my Italian.
    Did you know that Bologna has its own leaning tower? Well one of its two towers has a distinctive lean.
    Lunch and an exploration of the old streets with a visit to the Basilica de Santo Stefano , quite interesting, followed by ice-cream and rest.
    Bologna is a compact, clean by Italian standards, with a nice feel about it. Well worth a visit.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 1. Bologna

    August 25, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    I forgot to mention we visited the oldest bookshop in the world in Lisbon. Bertrand' founded in 1774. Did not have the same aura as Livraria Lello.
    Have you ever had the feeling when waiting for your baggage that it is lost. We get that feeling every time in Italy. Alitalia was the airline that misplaced our bags many years ago and we still think it's going to happen again every time we visit.
    The bags finally arrived and we relaxed.
    Bologna is a city of 1 million and the street buildings gave lots of porticos for protection from the elements. They were welcome today to escape the hot sun. It has the worlds oldest university with Copernicus being one of its celebrated sons.
    Our Albergo is right in the centre of the historic district with many historical highlights within a 500m radius. This afternoon we tried to have a ride on Bologna's underground river and explore the underground tunnels. It was not to be. They have been cancelled as being too dangerous. We manage to take a photo but that was all.
    We thought the Basilica San Petronio was like a gian mausoleum , absolutely not atmosphere at all, unlike the narrow streets that surround it.
    A late afternoon snack at The iconic Caffe Tamburini was just what the Dr ordered as was the gelato that followed.
    Tomorrow's itinerary is planned and Shirl is writing her diary with the TV in the background.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherPortugalBrian Gallagher

    Day 17. Tram 28.

    August 24, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    I didn't mention that last evening we were entertained by some some street dancers/acrobats who were very good.
    What followed was a journey down into the bowels of the earth(Baixo Chiado metro station) to purchase day transport tickets for today.
    Bright and early we were at tram stop to board the #28 tram. Am iconic tram on an iconic journey in Lisbon. The queue was so long it was the 3 rd tram for us.
    It was great fun rattling around the streets, some so narrow you could touch the sides of the street. I have sympathy for the locals because the tourists take all the seats.
    One good thing we discovered were the Basilica was and visited it. A much more impressive building. As the botanical garden was opposite a tour of that followed.
    The #28 took us back into the centre for a visit to post some cards before a ride on the Elevator de Laura.
    Lunch followed before we got out of the heat.
    It was disturbing to see the armed police in Rua Augusta which is Lisbon's Las Ramblas. They normally are visible if they have cause for concern. We hope not.
    A final stroll in the cool of early evening, a final Super Bock, dinner and we retired to prepare for an early departure tomorrow morning.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherPortugalBrian Gallagher
    A tired Shirlsy

    Day 16. Judgement Day

    August 23, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Our visit to the Sao Joao Hospital was successful but expensive. The Drs removed Shirl's bandage and declared it no longer needed covering or the sling. They prescribed some cream to be applied twice a day and we left very relieved. Shirl celebrated by buying a new long sleeved shirt. Necessary for protecting her arm from the sun.
    Coffee and Pasteis followed with a visit to the Se (The Cathedral). Not impressed.
    We strolled along the waterfront admiring the views with the intention of visiting the Basilica. Got lost and ended up in the Market instead. We like markets.
    Lunch at a Brazilian Cafe and an interest conversation with a young, Bangladesh , man about cricket. He fancies their chance against us next week. To be honest so do I.
    The afternoon was spent blogging and writing diaries as well ad planning what to do tomorrow.
    TAP have advised a Border Force strike tomorrow and Friday. Fortunately at this stage Schengen countries are not affected. Don't fancy fronting up at the airport at 4 am for a 8-45 flight.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherPortugalBrian Gallagher

    Day 15. Sintra and beyond

    August 23, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    A guide took us to Sintra first thing in the morning where we saw first hand "tourist pollution ". There were thousands of them fighting for parking spaces etc.
    Our first destination was the Palace of Pena a former home of Portugal's royal family. We were taken to a small entrance, away from the maddening crowds, to purchase our tickets. Only for the gardens and Palace terrace. Buying Palace tickets depended on the queue.
    On our arrival at the main entrance it was quite obvious we were not visiting the Palace. The waiting time in the queue was estimated at 1 hr30 mins. In the heat we would have become boiled lobsters. Not on.
    From the Palace terrace we headed to the high cross. The highest point with great views all around. From there in the shade of the garden, quite extensive, we headed down through the Valley of the lakes to meet our guide Nunu.
    The Quinta da Regaleira was our next port of call. An exhuberant collection by some of Portugal's best artists. The ceiling panelling were fantastic.
    The gardens were a labyrinth and despite being discombobulated several times we managed to see all the highlights, which included the following;
    The Iniciatic Wall. A submarine tower that sinks 27 metres into the earth by a spiral stairway and the exit was through a tunnel.
    The Regaleira Tower, the Grotto, the Balnearium Fountain and the Chapel.
    Weary and dusty we then drove to the most Western point in mainland Europe. The Cabo da Roca. Very dramatic coastline.
    I might add we manage lunch amongst all the activities.
    A walk round Cascais with an ice-cream and we were ready to return to Lisbon. Tired, dusty but very satisfied.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherPortugalBrian Gallagher

    Day 14. Lisbon.

    August 22, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Bus trip to Lisbon was uneventful, passing through an huge area of cork trees. No evidence of bushfires that were on the news.
    We are accommodated in the Baixa area of Lisbon and on arrival there was a noticeable difference in temp. Cooler. The hot weather is going to follow us for the next few weeks with no change in sight.
    Passed the afternoon strolling around the area with lots of other tourists.
    Tomorrow we hope to take a trip to Sintra and Cabo da Roca the most western point of Europe.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherPortugalBrian Gallagher

    Day 13. Evora

    August 21, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Up bright and early on the bus to EVORA. On arrival we took the city tour bus to get a general feel of the city.
    The Chapel of the bones attracted our interest and so we visited. Built with bones from a previous time it is interesting but macabre. Like the one in Paris in it's subterranean passages.
    A Cathedral visit and the nearby Roman temple followed but the heat was too much so we had lunch and headed back to Estremoz.
    EVORA is not the place to visit in the August heat.
    After a siesta ( it is one of the things that prolongs your life) we dined and had a beautiful meal and evening.
    Shirl soaked her feet in the bidet to soften her toenails for trimming.
    Lisbon tomorrow and hopefully the weather will be cooler.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherPortugalBrian Gallagher

    Day 12. Estremoz.

    August 19, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    We changed our plans today staying in town to visit the weekly market instead of going to EVORA. 42deg predicted there today against a cool 😜😎37 here.
    The market was of two parts. Flea and veggies. Always interesting to see the locals engaging in animated bartering and conversation. Not much of interest and we retired to a bar for cold drink. It was one dominated by men and the owner frowned at Shirl sitting at the bar.
    With nothing left to do but escape the heat we retired to await the cool of the evening.
    We heard that there have been bush fires near EVORA and with this heat and winds they will be difficult to see. Tomorrow we might see, experience the extent of them. Let's hope they are not too severe.
    The evening saw us visit the local church and as we approached a group of young musicians entered the church. Shirl immediately thought"concert". Not to be. It was the music for the mass. Ursula, up there with St Peter must have been having a good old laugh. Us two sitting through a mass.
    We tried the Asado Polvo for dinner. Roasted octopus. Quite tasty. I have included a photo from the men's toilet telling men not to sprinkle on the floor.
    A pleasant evening.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherPortugalBrian Gallagher

    Day 11. Estremoz.

    August 18, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    First off this morning we headed off to the hospital to have Shirl's arm redressed. We approached what looked like a derelict building and entered with some trepidation.
    Inside it was clean, spotless.
    I was greeted by an older woman who clearly wanted nothing to do with us and told us, in Portuguese of course, to go down the hall to room at the end.
    There were several rooms and one with a doctor. I explained our problem. She consulted her computer terminal and, of course we were not on it. She spoke to someone and told me to go back with our passport to the counter. Phew! A younger lady, who spoke a little English, took the passport and Medicare card and proceeded to enter the details, with difficulty and consternation. As usual everyone joined in giving her advice. Eventually a smile and obvious relief and the task was completed. I returned down the hall and the wound was already redressed. The doctor entered details into the system and told us to return to the counter to pay.
    I paid with many thanks to the young lady and we left, very satisfied.
    Shirl told me she nearly had a heart attack as she thought the cost was €70. It was €4-70. ($7).
    The wound is healing nicely and several of the tapes that held the skin together were removed. I think Shirl is praying all will be well so we can walk St Francis Way in Italy. I remain unconvinced.
    The Correos(Post Office) was our next port of call with me wishing I had learnt more Portuguese. All was well and the hound man spoke excellent English. The parcel of Shirl's purchases is on its way.
    A visit to the medieval part of town on the hill was next before it became too hot.
    The visit to the local museum depicted the old way of life provided some relief from the heat.
    Not much to see elsewhere ,but we came across a gallery of marble sculptures. Wonderful pieces. Several we would have bought if it was possible. A long, interesting conversation with proprietor followed.
    Returning to town for lunch and an escape from the afternoon heat.
    Surfacing in the relative cool of the early evening we copied the locals and found a cafe by the square. (In the shade)
    A Super Bock and Ginger Ale were enjoyed whilst observing the locals. A passeggiata around the square finished the day got us.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherPortugalBrian Gallagher

    Day 10. Our journey to Estremoz.

    August 18, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    At breakfast we were able to pass on our knowledge of Fozcoa to a fellow traveller, newly arrived. She had been kept in the dark about what was on offer here.
    Our bus journey was uneventful but interesting. At our 3rd stop 4 locals plus a nun came on board and an animated, loud, debate amongst them about who sat where, followed.
    After 15 mins calm and quiet returned(thank goodness).
    Throughout the trip the burnt out countryside was all around us. Portugal has had terrible bush fires and 64 people perished.
    Estremoz is to Portugal what Carrara is to Italy. They mine marble. Each will tell you there's is the best.
    The bus terminal seats, floors and walls were made of the stuff. Outside the kerbstones and cobbled streets were marble.
    Opposite the new terminal is the old one with it's protected tiled scenes. A more charming edifice.
    Fortunately our hotel was close by as one does not linger on the searing heat. 38degs. Once inside the air conditioned comfort we stayed until we.ventured out in the cool of the evening.
    Weather forecast is for the hot weather to continue.
    Looks like morning sightseeing and afternoon siestas.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherPortugalBrian Gallagher

    Day 9. Foz Coa.

    August 16, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    This morning we made a change to our itinerary, cancelling our proposed 5 day walk from Fidenza, over the Passa della Cisa to Pontremoli. Instead we have booked an apartment in Pissoia, giving Shirl,s arm more time to heal before the Via Francesco.
    We discovered that yesterday was Assumption day( Public Holiday) in Portugal perhaps explaining lack of interest by the Tourist and Hostel Staff.
    Shirl discovered a walking trail to the Museum 4 kms away. Newly sign posted it was easy to follow. The countryside reminds us of Port Augusta. We came across a shepherd and his flock of sheep blocking the road. He invited us to walk through them which we did with trepidation. No problems. I thank him and we went on our way with the flock following us.
    We were surprised on arrival at the museum to be told that there were spaces available on the afternoon's tour. Then disappointed when told the starting point was 14 kms away and we needed to make our own way there. We settled for a tour of the museum. Very informative. The artists scribed over the work of other previous ones, making it sometimes difficult to see the images.
    We discovered why I had no response when trying to book a tour. All spots taken by tour groups.
    The predicted temp today was 36degs, so perhaps a blessing we didn't go.
    We left to return to the town and came across a group of young boys and their guardian who told us that a free tourist train operated 3 times each morning to correspond to the tours. We jumped at the offer of a free ride to town. The guardian tried to arrange a private guide but all slots were full.
    A good lunch then we returned to escape the afternoon heat.
    Evening saw us having a drink at the Sunset Bar before walking into town and enjoying the relative coolness of the evening breeze.
    Shirl has suggested that she carries her own rucksack tomorrow to relieve the pressure on me. We'll give it a go.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherPortugalBrian Gallagher

    Day 8. Vila Nova de Foz Coa

    August 16, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Where on earth is Foz Coa? It is on the eastern side of Portugal near the Spanish border.
    The purpose of the long bus ride to the other side of the country was to visit the Pre historic Rock Art site. I was unable to book a visit on their site (quite useless) and this was confirmed by the staff at the hostel.
    On arrival I left Shirl drinking a coffee whilst I went to visit the Museo Office. Could not locate it. Then the Tourist Office. a most unhelpful woman confirmed she could not book visits and was unsuccessful in ordering a taxi for me.
    I did not appreciate humping both bags 1 km to the hostel, which is the only accommodation in town. (I will Check this out tomorrow)
    The staff in the hostel were indifferent to us but the room is very good.
    I was very grumpy at this stage but later we managed to find a good tapas/restaurant and enjoyed a pleasant meal. The beer went down well.
    We will explore tomorrow.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherPortugalBrian Gallagher

    Day 7. JK !?'l/(#*+ Rowling.

    August 14, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    First up a visit to a clinic to have Shirl's dressing replaced. The wound is healing up nicely. Not quick enough for Shirl as she knows that it needs to be well and truly healed before we start walking again.
    Today is the day I cursed JK Rowling and Harry Potter.
    She lived and taught English in Porto in the 1990's spending a lot of time in the Majestic Cafe and the Livraria Lello (Bookshop Lello).
    We decided to have coffee at the cafe. Bad idea. Full of Japanese tourists paying €30 ($47) per person for breakfast. Too rich for our tastes. Took a photo and moved on to the Livraria Lello. It cost 8€( $13) to enter after 1 1/2 hours wait in a queue. I was all for moving on but Shirl wanted to see the inside. All Harry Potter fans will recognise the staircase. A replica featured in Hogwarts Library. Very impressive.
    JK Rowling has a lot to answer for.
    Afternoon spent doing the laundry in preparation for our move to Vila Nova do Foz Coa.    Read more

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