• Brian Gallagher
agosto 2017

Portugal

Una aventura de 16 días de Brian Leer más
  • Inicio del viaje
    9 de agosto de 2017

    Day 2. Morning Alcobaca.

    9 de agosto de 2017, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Why Alcobaca you may ask?. The Cistercian Monastery here was one of the most important and powerful Abbeys in the Cistercian order. It was founded in 1153.
    It has many Azurlejo. The hand painted tiles which. Depict major historical events. The tiles are about 150mm square. Many fine examples here. The church was the first Gothic church in Portugal.
    While wandering around the cloisters we heard this beautiful singing. We arrived at a chapel just as the singing ended. It was a Japonese lady and a falsetto. A male contralto. We spoke to him, Joao Paolo Ferreira. a Brazilian. He sings for the different touring groups. We sat down and he sang for us. A special moment. We continued our tour and shortly after we heard Joao Paolo singing Ave Maria. We met him again and asked if he had a CD. Yes, but in the square when he busks. I asked if he would sing Ave Maria for Shirley but unfortunately he had another appointment.
    Later we located him singing and I bought a CD. He then sand Ave Maria for Shirl who was moved to tears. The events of the last few days had caught up with her.
    A coffee, very good, and a Portuguese custard tart. Delicious.
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  • Day 2. Batahla afternoon.

    9 de agosto de 2017, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    After lunch we caught the bus to Batahla, to see the Dominican monastery built to commemorate the battle that ensured the indépendance of Portugal. (1385)
    A very impressive building. What impressed was
    The stone masonry. A brilliant extravaganza of superb workmanship. It is the most important example of the Gothic style in Portugal with the most important example of medieval stained glass windows.
    In one of the photos you will noticed a cleaned steeple. If only they could afford to clean all the building it would be an extraordinary sight.
    Whilst there we saw the changing of the guard for the war memorial to the fallen of the First World War. I couldn't' resist photographing the intricate lacing of the guards boots.
    A visit to the military museum concluded our visit.
    Tired but pleased we returned to our hotel to prepare for our journey tomorrow to Coimbra.
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  • Day 3. Coimbra

    10 de agosto de 2017, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    What a day. Brian in his wisdom decided to take the advice of travel advisor and take the train to Coimbra. No more today trains.
    The bus was at 1635 so it made sense to take the 1130 train from Valado as suggested.
    Sitting on a deserted platform in the middle of nowhere is. It the best place to spend your time, particularly when the train is late and indicates it is going to a different place. The train was clean enough on the inside but all the carriage had been graffitied and you couldn't see out of them.
    With relief we eventually reached our destination.
    Today Shirl needs her arm checked and re-bandaged.
    All is well to our collective relief
    Unfortunately no photos as yet.
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  • Day 4. Coimbra (Quimbra)

    11 de agosto de 2017, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Much relieved after our visit to the hospital we were ready for being tourists today. As usual washing was the first port of call at the laundrette nearby. Once completed we headed off to find the cafe that has a fado concert tonight. In no hurry we strolled through the old part of the city with it's narrow and interesting streets. In one shop they had a huge tomato of the old variety, they look badly malformed but are red and juicy. You pay a premium in Australia where we have been seduced into only buying perfectly formed fruit and veg. These old tomatoes are delicious.
    Shirl is enjoying being a tourist and all tourists is buying little nicknacks to go with the cork handbag she bought in Alcobaca.
    On the pavements are the Pilgrimage placards indicating the way to Santiago de Compostelle in Spain.
    The Aussie invention of the screwtop virtually destroyed the Portuguese cork industry, being the worlds major supplier. It looks like they have hit on a winner with these handbags. How durable they are time will tell.
    We eventually found the fado cafe and booked for tonight's concert. (A separate post on the concert to follow)
    The Monastery Santa Cruz was close by and we popped in for a visit. Inside was beautiful azulejo tiles depicting religious historical scenes.
    The organ was a masterpiece as was the choir stalls.
    Buildings like this abound in Portugal and are testament that they, alongside England and Spain, they were a major power. Spain and Portigal have fallen by the wayside and, sadly, England is going the same way.
    Today, unlike previous days, was starting to warm up and we sought they shade and returned to the hotel.
    After lunch Shirl took it easy while I paid a visit to the Post Office.

    I
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  • Day 4. Fado.

    11 de agosto de 2017, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    On the way to the concert I decided to check out the post office. Why you may ask? I have been traumatised by my experiences with the Italian Post Office and do not want a repeat experience. Compared to the Italian Post Office, Australias' is efficient and productive.
    With trepidation we entered and all appeared normal. Phew!
    Now Shirley's purchases can be sent home.
    All afternoon I had been racking my brain for the name of a guitar piece we had heard played by a busker earlier. As we sat down for the concert it came to me. The adagio from the Concierto d'Aranjuez. A very beautiful piece of music.
    Fado is a tradition of the Coimbra University students. The University was founded in 1290 and has a long and distinguished reputation. Fado was sung/played by the male students wooing the young girls but during the dictatorships of Salazar and Caetarno it was used to pass on messages of protest. Nowadays song are sung emphasising the love of country.
    The musicians play the Coimbra guitar, founded on the traditional guitar and the sitar. And the classical guitar.
    We had a very entertaining and enjoyable evening.
    Dinner was enjoyed in the nearby Placa in a barmy evening.
    Tomorrow we head off to Porto. The weather forecast is for a couple of hot days before a return to pleasant temps.
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  • Day 5 Porto

    14 de agosto de 2017, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    A large group of Dutch cyclists were at breakfast today. Having cycled from Holland to Lourdes and Santiago they were heading off to ride to Fatima in Central Portugal. We chatted to two ladies and they explained their ride.
    The bus took us to Porto and it was hot. Mid 30s, not the temp for touring. We were quite content to have a lazy, shady afternoon.
    We had a quiet dinner and looking forward to touring tomorrow.
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  • Day 6. Porto

    14 de agosto de 2017, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The day started with a tourist sightseeing bus taking in the historical parts of the city. I had an urge to leap off the bus, scrubbing and paint brushes in hand. There are a lot of dirty and derelict buildings throughout the city. Then I remembered that Portugal is broke, deep in debt to the EU banks. There is some redevelopement going on but, at the moment, it is not enough.
    There are many beautiful tile mosaics on churches, in the railway station and on significant government buildings.
    One mosaic on the Santa Caterina chapel has over 14,000 tiles. Quite impressive.
    Only two small trams remain from a once extensive network. The tourists love them.
    We joined the hordes crossing the Douro river high on the Luiz 1 bridge to vista Vila Nova de Gaia on the opposite bank to Porto. An impressive view of the city.
    We did visit some churches and a monastery.
    A busy day and we were quite happy to dine and retire for the night.
    Luckily a cool change is on the way for tomorrow.
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  • Day 7. JK !?'l/(#*+ Rowling.

    14 de agosto de 2017, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    First up a visit to a clinic to have Shirl's dressing replaced. The wound is healing up nicely. Not quick enough for Shirl as she knows that it needs to be well and truly healed before we start walking again.
    Today is the day I cursed JK Rowling and Harry Potter.
    She lived and taught English in Porto in the 1990's spending a lot of time in the Majestic Cafe and the Livraria Lello (Bookshop Lello).
    We decided to have coffee at the cafe. Bad idea. Full of Japanese tourists paying €30 ($47) per person for breakfast. Too rich for our tastes. Took a photo and moved on to the Livraria Lello. It cost 8€( $13) to enter after 1 1/2 hours wait in a queue. I was all for moving on but Shirl wanted to see the inside. All Harry Potter fans will recognise the staircase. A replica featured in Hogwarts Library. Very impressive.
    JK Rowling has a lot to answer for.
    Afternoon spent doing the laundry in preparation for our move to Vila Nova do Foz Coa.
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  • Day 8. Vila Nova de Foz Coa

    16 de agosto de 2017, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Where on earth is Foz Coa? It is on the eastern side of Portugal near the Spanish border.
    The purpose of the long bus ride to the other side of the country was to visit the Pre historic Rock Art site. I was unable to book a visit on their site (quite useless) and this was confirmed by the staff at the hostel.
    On arrival I left Shirl drinking a coffee whilst I went to visit the Museo Office. Could not locate it. Then the Tourist Office. a most unhelpful woman confirmed she could not book visits and was unsuccessful in ordering a taxi for me.
    I did not appreciate humping both bags 1 km to the hostel, which is the only accommodation in town. (I will Check this out tomorrow)
    The staff in the hostel were indifferent to us but the room is very good.
    I was very grumpy at this stage but later we managed to find a good tapas/restaurant and enjoyed a pleasant meal. The beer went down well.
    We will explore tomorrow.
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  • Day 9. Foz Coa.

    16 de agosto de 2017, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    This morning we made a change to our itinerary, cancelling our proposed 5 day walk from Fidenza, over the Passa della Cisa to Pontremoli. Instead we have booked an apartment in Pissoia, giving Shirl,s arm more time to heal before the Via Francesco.
    We discovered that yesterday was Assumption day( Public Holiday) in Portugal perhaps explaining lack of interest by the Tourist and Hostel Staff.
    Shirl discovered a walking trail to the Museum 4 kms away. Newly sign posted it was easy to follow. The countryside reminds us of Port Augusta. We came across a shepherd and his flock of sheep blocking the road. He invited us to walk through them which we did with trepidation. No problems. I thank him and we went on our way with the flock following us.
    We were surprised on arrival at the museum to be told that there were spaces available on the afternoon's tour. Then disappointed when told the starting point was 14 kms away and we needed to make our own way there. We settled for a tour of the museum. Very informative. The artists scribed over the work of other previous ones, making it sometimes difficult to see the images.
    We discovered why I had no response when trying to book a tour. All spots taken by tour groups.
    The predicted temp today was 36degs, so perhaps a blessing we didn't go.
    We left to return to the town and came across a group of young boys and their guardian who told us that a free tourist train operated 3 times each morning to correspond to the tours. We jumped at the offer of a free ride to town. The guardian tried to arrange a private guide but all slots were full.
    A good lunch then we returned to escape the afternoon heat.
    Evening saw us having a drink at the Sunset Bar before walking into town and enjoying the relative coolness of the evening breeze.
    Shirl has suggested that she carries her own rucksack tomorrow to relieve the pressure on me. We'll give it a go.
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  • Day 9. Photos

    16 de agosto de 2017, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    The only plants that grow well here are olive trees and grapes. The rest wither in the boiling temps.
    There is a Camino walk through here to Santiago. Not a summer walk.
    Enjoy the photos.

  • Day 10. Our journey to Estremoz.

    18 de agosto de 2017, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    At breakfast we were able to pass on our knowledge of Fozcoa to a fellow traveller, newly arrived. She had been kept in the dark about what was on offer here.
    Our bus journey was uneventful but interesting. At our 3rd stop 4 locals plus a nun came on board and an animated, loud, debate amongst them about who sat where, followed.
    After 15 mins calm and quiet returned(thank goodness).
    Throughout the trip the burnt out countryside was all around us. Portugal has had terrible bush fires and 64 people perished.
    Estremoz is to Portugal what Carrara is to Italy. They mine marble. Each will tell you there's is the best.
    The bus terminal seats, floors and walls were made of the stuff. Outside the kerbstones and cobbled streets were marble.
    Opposite the new terminal is the old one with it's protected tiled scenes. A more charming edifice.
    Fortunately our hotel was close by as one does not linger on the searing heat. 38degs. Once inside the air conditioned comfort we stayed until we.ventured out in the cool of the evening.
    Weather forecast is for the hot weather to continue.
    Looks like morning sightseeing and afternoon siestas.
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  • Day 11. Estremoz.

    18 de agosto de 2017, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    First off this morning we headed off to the hospital to have Shirl's arm redressed. We approached what looked like a derelict building and entered with some trepidation.
    Inside it was clean, spotless.
    I was greeted by an older woman who clearly wanted nothing to do with us and told us, in Portuguese of course, to go down the hall to room at the end.
    There were several rooms and one with a doctor. I explained our problem. She consulted her computer terminal and, of course we were not on it. She spoke to someone and told me to go back with our passport to the counter. Phew! A younger lady, who spoke a little English, took the passport and Medicare card and proceeded to enter the details, with difficulty and consternation. As usual everyone joined in giving her advice. Eventually a smile and obvious relief and the task was completed. I returned down the hall and the wound was already redressed. The doctor entered details into the system and told us to return to the counter to pay.
    I paid with many thanks to the young lady and we left, very satisfied.
    Shirl told me she nearly had a heart attack as she thought the cost was €70. It was €4-70. ($7).
    The wound is healing nicely and several of the tapes that held the skin together were removed. I think Shirl is praying all will be well so we can walk St Francis Way in Italy. I remain unconvinced.
    The Correos(Post Office) was our next port of call with me wishing I had learnt more Portuguese. All was well and the hound man spoke excellent English. The parcel of Shirl's purchases is on its way.
    A visit to the medieval part of town on the hill was next before it became too hot.
    The visit to the local museum depicted the old way of life provided some relief from the heat.
    Not much to see elsewhere ,but we came across a gallery of marble sculptures. Wonderful pieces. Several we would have bought if it was possible. A long, interesting conversation with proprietor followed.
    Returning to town for lunch and an escape from the afternoon heat.
    Surfacing in the relative cool of the early evening we copied the locals and found a cafe by the square. (In the shade)
    A Super Bock and Ginger Ale were enjoyed whilst observing the locals. A passeggiata around the square finished the day got us.
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  • Day 12. Estremoz.

    19 de agosto de 2017, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    We changed our plans today staying in town to visit the weekly market instead of going to EVORA. 42deg predicted there today against a cool 😜😎37 here.
    The market was of two parts. Flea and veggies. Always interesting to see the locals engaging in animated bartering and conversation. Not much of interest and we retired to a bar for cold drink. It was one dominated by men and the owner frowned at Shirl sitting at the bar.
    With nothing left to do but escape the heat we retired to await the cool of the evening.
    We heard that there have been bush fires near EVORA and with this heat and winds they will be difficult to see. Tomorrow we might see, experience the extent of them. Let's hope they are not too severe.
    The evening saw us visit the local church and as we approached a group of young musicians entered the church. Shirl immediately thought"concert". Not to be. It was the music for the mass. Ursula, up there with St Peter must have been having a good old laugh. Us two sitting through a mass.
    We tried the Asado Polvo for dinner. Roasted octopus. Quite tasty. I have included a photo from the men's toilet telling men not to sprinkle on the floor.
    A pleasant evening.
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  • Day 13. Evora

    21 de agosto de 2017, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Up bright and early on the bus to EVORA. On arrival we took the city tour bus to get a general feel of the city.
    The Chapel of the bones attracted our interest and so we visited. Built with bones from a previous time it is interesting but macabre. Like the one in Paris in it's subterranean passages.
    A Cathedral visit and the nearby Roman temple followed but the heat was too much so we had lunch and headed back to Estremoz.
    EVORA is not the place to visit in the August heat.
    After a siesta ( it is one of the things that prolongs your life) we dined and had a beautiful meal and evening.
    Shirl soaked her feet in the bidet to soften her toenails for trimming.
    Lisbon tomorrow and hopefully the weather will be cooler.
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  • Day 14. Lisbon.

    22 de agosto de 2017, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Bus trip to Lisbon was uneventful, passing through an huge area of cork trees. No evidence of bushfires that were on the news.
    We are accommodated in the Baixa area of Lisbon and on arrival there was a noticeable difference in temp. Cooler. The hot weather is going to follow us for the next few weeks with no change in sight.
    Passed the afternoon strolling around the area with lots of other tourists.
    Tomorrow we hope to take a trip to Sintra and Cabo da Roca the most western point of Europe.
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  • Day 15. Sintra and beyond

    23 de agosto de 2017, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    A guide took us to Sintra first thing in the morning where we saw first hand "tourist pollution ". There were thousands of them fighting for parking spaces etc.
    Our first destination was the Palace of Pena a former home of Portugal's royal family. We were taken to a small entrance, away from the maddening crowds, to purchase our tickets. Only for the gardens and Palace terrace. Buying Palace tickets depended on the queue.
    On our arrival at the main entrance it was quite obvious we were not visiting the Palace. The waiting time in the queue was estimated at 1 hr30 mins. In the heat we would have become boiled lobsters. Not on.
    From the Palace terrace we headed to the high cross. The highest point with great views all around. From there in the shade of the garden, quite extensive, we headed down through the Valley of the lakes to meet our guide Nunu.
    The Quinta da Regaleira was our next port of call. An exhuberant collection by some of Portugal's best artists. The ceiling panelling were fantastic.
    The gardens were a labyrinth and despite being discombobulated several times we managed to see all the highlights, which included the following;
    The Iniciatic Wall. A submarine tower that sinks 27 metres into the earth by a spiral stairway and the exit was through a tunnel.
    The Regaleira Tower, the Grotto, the Balnearium Fountain and the Chapel.
    Weary and dusty we then drove to the most Western point in mainland Europe. The Cabo da Roca. Very dramatic coastline.
    I might add we manage lunch amongst all the activities.
    A walk round Cascais with an ice-cream and we were ready to return to Lisbon. Tired, dusty but very satisfied.
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  • Day 16. Judgement Day

    23 de agosto de 2017, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Our visit to the Sao Joao Hospital was successful but expensive. The Drs removed Shirl's bandage and declared it no longer needed covering or the sling. They prescribed some cream to be applied twice a day and we left very relieved. Shirl celebrated by buying a new long sleeved shirt. Necessary for protecting her arm from the sun.
    Coffee and Pasteis followed with a visit to the Se (The Cathedral). Not impressed.
    We strolled along the waterfront admiring the views with the intention of visiting the Basilica. Got lost and ended up in the Market instead. We like markets.
    Lunch at a Brazilian Cafe and an interest conversation with a young, Bangladesh , man about cricket. He fancies their chance against us next week. To be honest so do I.
    The afternoon was spent blogging and writing diaries as well ad planning what to do tomorrow.
    TAP have advised a Border Force strike tomorrow and Friday. Fortunately at this stage Schengen countries are not affected. Don't fancy fronting up at the airport at 4 am for a 8-45 flight.
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  • Day 17. Tram 28.

    24 de agosto de 2017, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    I didn't mention that last evening we were entertained by some some street dancers/acrobats who were very good.
    What followed was a journey down into the bowels of the earth(Baixo Chiado metro station) to purchase day transport tickets for today.
    Bright and early we were at tram stop to board the #28 tram. Am iconic tram on an iconic journey in Lisbon. The queue was so long it was the 3 rd tram for us.
    It was great fun rattling around the streets, some so narrow you could touch the sides of the street. I have sympathy for the locals because the tourists take all the seats.
    One good thing we discovered were the Basilica was and visited it. A much more impressive building. As the botanical garden was opposite a tour of that followed.
    The #28 took us back into the centre for a visit to post some cards before a ride on the Elevator de Laura.
    Lunch followed before we got out of the heat.
    It was disturbing to see the armed police in Rua Augusta which is Lisbon's Las Ramblas. They normally are visible if they have cause for concern. We hope not.
    A final stroll in the cool of early evening, a final Super Bock, dinner and we retired to prepare for an early departure tomorrow morning.
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    Fin del viaje
    24 de agosto de 2017