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  • Brian Gallagher

Italy

A 39-day adventure by Brian Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 25, 2017
    Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 1. Bologna

    August 25, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    I forgot to mention we visited the oldest bookshop in the world in Lisbon. Bertrand' founded in 1774. Did not have the same aura as Livraria Lello.
    Have you ever had the feeling when waiting for your baggage that it is lost. We get that feeling every time in Italy. Alitalia was the airline that misplaced our bags many years ago and we still think it's going to happen again every time we visit.
    The bags finally arrived and we relaxed.
    Bologna is a city of 1 million and the street buildings gave lots of porticos for protection from the elements. They were welcome today to escape the hot sun. It has the worlds oldest university with Copernicus being one of its celebrated sons.
    Our Albergo is right in the centre of the historic district with many historical highlights within a 500m radius. This afternoon we tried to have a ride on Bologna's underground river and explore the underground tunnels. It was not to be. They have been cancelled as being too dangerous. We manage to take a photo but that was all.
    We thought the Basilica San Petronio was like a gian mausoleum , absolutely not atmosphere at all, unlike the narrow streets that surround it.
    A late afternoon snack at The iconic Caffe Tamburini was just what the Dr ordered as was the gelato that followed.
    Tomorrow's itinerary is planned and Shirl is writing her diary with the TV in the background.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 2. Exploring Bologna.

    August 26, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    In the cool of the morning we strolled up the porticos of the Via dell'Indipendenza to visit the Parco Montagnola passing through the market where you keep your hands on your valuables. The park was a disappointment, used as a camping ground for the immigrants who litter the park with rubbish. We passed quickly through it to the University Botanical Gardens. Not much open there although a queue had formed at a door due to be opened at 0830. It was after 10.
    The University museum was well worth the visit with magnificent ceilings and frescos. They have a wonderful collection of exhibits, as you would expect from the world's oldest University. It's naval rooms full of model ships were extraordinary.
    I gave a lecture in an empty auditorium and those not present missed my enlightening thoughts on the world. Shirl didn't seem impressed.
    We had a pleasant surprise in the Oratory of Santa Cécilia. Beautiful frescoes as where the ones in the Basilica of Giacomo Maggiore, where I practiced my Italian.
    Did you know that Bologna has its own leaning tower? Well one of its two towers has a distinctive lean.
    Lunch and an exploration of the old streets with a visit to the Basilica de Santo Stefano , quite interesting, followed by ice-cream and rest.
    Bologna is a compact, clean by Italian standards, with a nice feel about it. Well worth a visit.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 3. Pistoia.

    August 27, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    There were two places we wished to see before breakfast.
    To view the biggest sundial in the world inside the Basilica San Petronio. 67 m in length built for the study of the sun's revolutions, studied through a hole created in the dome. Created in 1655. The dates and times of the sun striking the sundial are listed on a poster near the gift office.
    Today it would happen when we were on the train.
    The second visit was to the chords di Santa Maria della Vitae to view the Compianto, a earthenware sculpture composed of seven natural size statues. Unlucky again as the church was closed.
    We settled for a coffee and brioche ciocolata.
    37+ here in Pistoia but the apartment is great and comfortable. Arrived too late to do the shopping but there is pasta and sauce here for us to cook.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 4. Pistoia.

    August 28, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    When checking my savings account last night there were 4 unauthorised transactions made in Kangaroo Point. The bank had sent a new card to Shirley which was taken from the letter box and used. So late last night I was on the phone to Sydney to advise the bank. So first thing we did the shopping.(we have to eat) Then coffee and brioche ciocolata. It is interesting to see how people attack the brioche. Shirl and I are nibblers. We start on the outside and work towards the Nutella centre.
    Into town to print out the card dispute form. The staff at the town hall were great but required passport details before I could use the internet. This necessitated a trip back to our apartment.
    Eventually all was completed and we celebrated with a gelato. Whilst eating an immigrant came up and said he wanted to lick the ice-cream. There was now way Shirl was going to let him lick her gelato. He just wanted one. I told him to order one and I would pay. He went off happily licking his ice-cream not Shirley's
    There was something brewing on the surrounding mountains and it looks like (we hope) that a storm is brewing and the hot weather will go.
    The security on our front door is over the top. That's what we hope and not something we need to be concerned about.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 5. Pistoia AM

    August 30, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Well the heavens opened last night, thunder, lightning and hail. It appears there's a change coming. Hopefully cooler weather.
    After purchasing tickets for this afternoon's tour we visited some of the churches. There are lots of them. In the U.K. It's a pub on every corner, here it's a church.
    Pistoia has a reputation for its fine pulpits and so we went to see the two finest examples. The ones in St Andrea and San Giovanni Fuorcivitas.
    We preferred the one in San Giovanni. As you will know they have the symbols on them for Mathew(prayer book), Mark (Lion) ,Luke (ox) and John (eagle).
    The ceilings(wooden) were excellent but sadly the frescoes that once covered the interior walls have all but disappeared.
    The best frescoes we have seen are in the tiny Holy Trinity Chapel, Hrastovlji in Slovenia.
    The churches here have a lot of white and green marble. It must be a Tuscan thing because Sienna Duomo has the same features.
    It was a pleasant morning and in the narrow alleys the temp was bearable.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 5. Pistoia PM.

    August 30, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    After lunch we headed off to the Spedale Del Ceppo, a former hospital, now just a blood donor's clinic. The front of the building is decorated with medallions by Della Robbia and Benedetto Buglioni.
    From the 17th century the hospital was home to a medical-surgical school whose clients were the dead from the hospital and the prisons, bisected on a marble slab in the anatomical theatre.
    From here we gained access to the underground tour.
    As the city expanded its wall did also and the tour was along the former river Brana now diverted. Over time roads,walls and buildings were built over the river. It was interesting to learn of the city's history through the foundations.
    There were two former mill wheels. One was used by the blacksmith the other by the miller.
    The hospital's toilets and waste products emptied into the river where the people washed their clothes and was responsible for 2/3rds of the city dying from the Black Plague.
    The excavation of the now dry river bed is an ongoing project, and knowing the Italians, I doubt if it will ever be finished.
    An interesting tour and recommended.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 6. Domesticity in Pistoia

    August 30, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Today was the day for washing and sorting ourselves out before we head off to Firenze and then the Via Francesco.
    I am busy finding accommodation for the walk. Due to the size and isolation of some of the places it involves a lot of work to choose the right option.
    I have included some photos from yesterday.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 7. Frescoes and Ceilings in Pistoia.

    August 31, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Pistoia, Italy's cultural capital for 2017, has many secrets to reveal, and this morning we found some of its frescoes and ceilings.
    There are traces of frescoes on all the walls of the churches and historical buildings. One can only wonder at what wonderful sight it must have been before time and neglect reduced their appearance.
    The wooden painted ceilings with their enormous beams makes me wonder about their construction. Quite a feat to man handle them into position.
    A very interesting morning which ended with gelato and Shirl jealously guarding hers from the licking ice cream immigrant, should he appear.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 8. Pistoia

    September 1, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We were surprised this morning as we were able to sight see. The forecast was for rain & thunderstorms last night but not much eventuated. So off we went having our normal coffee and brioche. I have just trained the barista to serve Shirl's coffee as she likes it. An expresso with a little hot water. They say "un americano" . I say no and eventually She got the message.
    Our intention was to visit the Fortress of Santa Barbara first but a pleasant surprise awaited us. The Dominican Library was open. We tried to visit yesterday but it was closed. An enthusiastic young man gave us a personal tour. The library itself was not much to see but we saw some interesting frescoes and sketches. At one time it was the friars intention to have a museum of sketches. These sketches are the artists design for the frescoes which are painted over them. They have technique which paints a coat over the fresco and when it sets they remove it and adhere to a plaster base. The original sketch is revealed underneath. I was allowed to take a photo of one example.
    One corridor in the building had its walls covered in the original sketches.
    Did you know the Dominican's are "The dogs of God". (Domini cane).
    Another coffee and brioche and then we visited St Paul's with its bare interior walls. No frescoes remain.
    Finally we arrived at the Fortress. What a disappointment. A derelict dump.
    A final Pistoia gelato and we headed home with threatening clouds above. They disappeared after several hours. The forecast is for storms tonight with up to 10 deg drop in temp. Fingers crossed.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 9, 10 & 11. Florence.

    September 4, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Our relocation to Florence created no problems for us but the conductor on the train was run ragged by people trying to avoid paying. You had to hand it to him, In difficult circumstances he did a good job.
    We are staying on the outskirts of town and the Via Francesco runs practically past our front door. It will reduce the first day's walk by over 3 kms.
    Our major task here is to visit the Basilica Santa Croce for our first stamp in the pilgrim passport. We were unsuccessful on the Sunday ( bookshop in Basilica closed) but today we succeeded.
    It was on the mid 90's we were here last during a two week Italian course. Shirl used to sightsee in the morning whilst I toiled in the classroom. We used to meet early afternoon in the Piazza della Signorina by the statue of David. It's all changed as the steps have been removed.
    We have revisited all the popular places along with thousand of other tourists. The queues for the Uffizi, Duomo and the Basilica were huge. The city is taking it in.
    We are anxious to start walking tomorrow and our plans are well advanced. Some of the places we were going to stay in are closed. They only open for the summer. It means a couple of longer days but it's manageable. There are several stages we won't due as the distances between accomodation are too long for us.
    We are ready to go and looking forward to tomorrow.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 12. On the road again.

    September 5, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Today, the first day of the Via Francesco, saw us leave Florence at 8am for a 21 km walk.
    There were no markings through Florence but we cleared the city limits new markings appeared which, I found out this evening had been placed there by the group that Sandy Brown was guiding to Assisi, 1 day ahead of us.
    We climbed steadily up to Settignano where it was time for coffee and brioche. Just after the town we started a quite steep descent down to the river Arno and the villages of Compiobbi (gelato there), Zellers, Le Falle and Sieci where we had a panini.
    From there it was a long climb as the temperatures increased and once we were over the top it was a long descent to Pontassieve.
    A tiring day because we had lost a lot of fitness during the month since Shirl's accident.
    After a shower we went shopping for some supplies for tomorrow as there is nowhere on route to buy anything.
    We had a really good meal and now it's bed before an early start tomorrow.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 13. Passo della Consuma

    September 8, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    A little stiff this morning as we eased ourselves up the mountain for Diacetto. A steady climb. Got lost once but we made it for coffee and dolci. This was followed by about 5 kms on a quiet lane. We met Kathren, Belgian, as we rested on a bench before entering the forest and the afternoon's climb.
    The track had been chewed up badly by the loggers and this made it difficult on the steeper sections. We had plenty of shade in the forest, which was welcome. The total climb was 1050 metres. We were glad to arrive in Consuma.
    Our hostess drove us about 500ms to the accommodation. We had a 3 bedroom house to ourselves. Irina drove us to and from for dinner and breakfast.
    Gerry and Alice(Americans) who we met yesterday were supposed to have dinner with us but they were billeted about 25kms away. Dinner was Kathryn, Ronald(Dutch) and ourselves. It made for a pleasant evening.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 14. Stia

    September 8, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Irina picked us up for breakfast at 7-30 and we breakfasted with K & R. We left at 8 but the other two waited for the Americans and the two Aussies we have yet to meet.
    We looked over pass but it was shrouded in mist.
    Today was supposed to be an easier day, mainly downhill, with some ascents. Didn't feel like that.
    Shirl was having back problems so it made it a very difficult
    day. Beat in mind the only way out is to walk. It was a struggle for her. I took the heavier items out of her to try and ease the load. We made it but what an ordeal for Shirl.
    Shirl's back injury is similar to the one she experienced on the South West Coast walk.
    As soon as we arrived she showered and after a massaged and some painkillers she went to bed to get as much rest as possible.
    In the meantime I had to re-arrange our itinerary. The biggest problem is transport in these remote areas.
    There is always. solution to all problems and by the time Shirl had rested the problem was solved
    We will remain on Stia tomorrow and then travel by bus for two days in Badia Prataglia, an original stop for us.
    Then two days in Sansecolpro before, hopefully continuing to walk.
    I had already programmed som rest days. Little later on and we will still have them.
    In the evening we went to dinner and finally met up with Sandie and Roxanne, two Aussies from Perth. There were 8 of us for a very pleasant dinner. Non stop conversation.
    A good night pity I left my mobile in the room.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 15 Stia. A restful rest day

    September 9, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We had a quit stroll after breakfast visiting the church before Shirl had a very good rest. In the evening we ate at the same restaurant as last night and had a good meal.
    Then a restful evening.

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 16. Badia Prataglia.

    September 9, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Today's journey to Badia involved two buses as it's out of the way. This was where we were suppose to walk to. Shirl's back is much better and tomorrow we might walk part of the track, without packs, to see how she goes.
    We don't plan to do a full day's walk for 4 days. It will give her back a good rest. After that we had planned to miss 3 long stages so hopefully by the time we reach Assisi all should be well.
    Well tonight in Badia Prataglia is the Festa dei Fochi. (Fie Festival). Their version of bonfire night. Quite spectacular but dangerous. With Italian precision it started 45 mins late.
    Then the fireworks until 2 pm.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 17. A dismal day.

    September 10, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We woke to thunder, lightning and heavy rain. Our thoughts were with those walking. A good day to be indoors.
    A lazy morning , resting and planning.
    After lunch we caught up with some fellow pilgrims we had seen in Stia. Isa and her dog, Kira, Francis and Annimie.
    They walked today and the forest gave them some protection. It was a short walk and they started late.
    In the evening they had a Choral concert in the church opposite. 3 groups from Pistoia. The first group were the best by far. An enjoyable concert followed by a pleasant meal with the other pilgrims.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 18 & 19. Sansecolpro

    September 12, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    It took us two bus and 1 train trip to Sansecolpro where we arrived at 2pm. We checked in and then found the laundromat. A successful day followed by a quiet evening meal
    Day 19 was reserved for sightseeing but first we sussed out the route out of town. The book had two options neither off which we acceptable to us so we planned our own quieter and shorter route.
    A visit to the Cathedral, several churches and the Civic Museum. The churches here of the early baroque style, not to our liking.
    The museum was a gem. Sansecolpro' s famous son is Piero della Francesca.. A painter of the early renaissance period. Paintings by him were displayed along with an early Michelangelo. Sculptures by Della Robbia and works by Luca Pacioli. Another Sansepolcro favourite son of the same period as Francesca. Quite a few frescoes on display as well as the synopsies.
    But the real gem was an exhibition by the American photographer Steven McCurrey. An exhibition which aroused the full gambit of human emotions.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 20. Agriturismo Le Burgne

    September 15, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Time to take it easy before the final stage to our overnight accommodation. The route out of town was a very busy and hair-raising so we left at 7 to avoid the worst of the traffic. Once clear of the major roads we sauntered along quiet, minor roads.
    We stopped for coffee and dolci in the very tiny village of Gricignano before continuing along flat roads.
    We missed out on a drink in Fighille due to poor instructions in our book so we continued up to Citerna. Quite a strep climb ensued but we arrived very early and so had lots of time to take it easy before the final stage to our overnight accommodation.
    We hadn't met any other walkers at this stage.
    The first part of the afternoon's walk was downhill and then, of course, it was up. We passed lots of tobacco fields.
    Nearing the top of the climb we were joined by Ralph(German) and we walked together to Le Burgne.
    Our hostess never stops talking. All on Italian and too bad if you don't understand.
    Dinner was delayed to await the arrival of Elizabeth (Austrian).
    For Shirl and I the meal was a disappointment. The soup was fine. It the rest was not to our liking.
    The
    Company and conversation made up for it.
    Shirl's back is OK and we will continue to Citta Di Castello tomorrow.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 21/22. Citta di Castello

    September 15, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Patrizia wouldn't serve breakfast before 0830 so it was 0915 before we were on our way. Ralf had left before
    Us but Elizabeth was still at Le Burgne when we left.
    Downhill to start with and then we commenced our first climb. We met Ralph at a buffalo farm as he was about to leVe after a rest.
    We continued the uphill grind together looking forward to a coffee at Lerchi. A most welcome break.
    As we're leaving Elizabeth arrived with news that Tony(French) would arrive on a few minutes. Ralf decided to wait for him as they had walk during previous day's.
    After about an hour we reached the top of the climb,thank goodness, and from there it was relatively easy descent into Citta.
    On our arrival in front of the Cathedral we had a refreshing drink and got into conversation with an English family who wanted to know about our travels. The Gerry and Alice arrived. They are the Americans we had dined with at Stia.
    We checked into our apartment and went shopping for food and drink bumping into Kathryn who told us that Roxanne and Sandi )Australians) from Stia were having coffee not far away. They were in good spirits and enjoying their walk.
    In the evening we met Ralf and went looking for a restaurant and met Tony and some Italian walkers together with Elizabeth. 9 of us sat down to dine. Ralf (German), Tony (French), Cinzia, Nadia, Rosa and Roberto(Italian) and Shirl and I. A wonderful evening.
    I spent a few hours the next day trying to sort out a few problems before we did the washing and sight-seeing.
    We wondered around the narrow streets of Citta visiting a few churches and admiring the old buildings.
    A quiet meal. Tomorrow it's a bus to Gubbio.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 23/24. Gubbio

    September 17, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The overnight rain continued in the morning until we left Citta at 12:30 to catch the bus to Gubbio. Whilst waiting for the bus we met Karl and Leslie an American couple who are also going to Rome.
    Getting off the bus at Gubbio we met Ralf and Elizabeth.
    We went for a coffee and ice cream and met Gerry and Alice who came in like drowned rats after their long walk. Not too happy. Shortly after we were joined by Kathryn.
    The arrangements for dinner did not eventuate as the Italians and decided not to join Ralf, Elizabeth and us. We were joined by Maria(German). A pleasant evening.
    Day 24 we made our way up to the Piazza Grande, via the market, to take the tourist train around the city. We return to the hotel for extra clothes, It was fresh.
    Our visit to see the church where St Francis's wolf is supposed to be buried was in vain as it was closed.
    We wander through the narrow streets up to the Funivia(birdcage) to go up to the Basilica of St Ubalfo. They store the ceris here.
    On May 15th each year they race the three ceris up to the Basilica through the city. The Ceri are 3 tall, heavy wooden structures on top of which are placed 3 statues. St Ubaldo, protector of the masons, St Giorgio, protector of the merchants and St Antonio Abate protector of the muleteers and peasants. They are dismantled to pass them through the narrow portes. ( see photo of Shirl with arms outstretched.
    I suggest you google this Festa to get some the excitement, even fervour it generates. I had the good fortune to see when I was studying Italian at Perugia. An unforgettable experience.
    We had a break after a ice cream as we wanted to visit two other Churches.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 25/26. Valfabbrica.

    September 18, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We spent the morning in Gubbio visiting other attractions we had missed yesterday before bussing to Valfabbrica.
    The bus was crowded with schoolchildren and we don't know if there would be a service without them.
    On arrival here we met Elizabeth and had a drink with her before we went to our accommodation. I think it's going to be a noisy night.
    We searched this small town for somewhere to eat tonight as Monday is not a good day for restaurants. We eventually found a pizza place. There's not much else.
    The next morning we had breakfast with Elizabeth, said goodbye, and then spent the day in Perugia. A lovely city with lots to see and do. We have been here before but it's that sort of city that deserves a return visit.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 27/28. Assisi

    September 21, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    The daylight hours are shortening and consequently the temps. It was 9 degrees when we left to walk to Assisi. A comfortable walk of 4 hours. Whilst walking through the woods we heard a pack of dogs close bye and we spent some anxious moments wondering if they were wild. Not so as we came upon some parked cars. They were probably hunting for wild pigs.
    The ascent into the city was quite steep with cars racing past.
    At St Francis Basilica we were stopped by military personnel and and had to show our pilgrim passport otherwise they would have searched our bags.
    We obtained our testimony and invited to the evening mass for pilgrims.
    All day we kept bumping into our fellow travellers and at the mass too.
    We dined with Karl and Leslie (Americans) along with their French friend Pierre. So I got to practice my French. A very enjoyable night.
    Our first task on the second day was the laundry which involved a bus ride to Santa Maria d'Angelli at the bottom of the hill. That done we went sightseeing and had the good fortune to come across an exhibition by a pilgrim who had walked 13,000kms in 15 months. His photos brought back many happy memories for us.    Read more

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