maj – aug. 2023

Road to Mongolia

20,000 km east from Vienna to Mongolia. Follow me on my 3 months trip while I explore Turkey, Georgia, Russia, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan and Mongolia with a BmW GS 1200 Läs mer

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Dag 26
torsdag 22 juni 2023 10:59
☀️ 26 °C
Höjd över havet: 109 m
Uzbekistan Qo‘ng‘irot Tumani 44.844397, 56.18426344°50’40” N 56°11’3” E
Desert to the Aral Sea
22 juni 2023, Uzbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Border crossing into Uzbekistan with 35°C
Once over the boardroom, we exchanged some money on the black market organised motorbike insurance and got a Sim card.
After a night in a dirty and overpriced hotel at the border, we then set off with our goal being the Aral see.

The Aral see is one of mankind’s biggest made environmental disasters, as this huge lake has almost been completely evaporated. Back in USSR times the water flows were altered for crop irrigation leaving entire villages hundreds of kilometres away from the coast of the sea.

To get there, we filled up the bikes with all canisters we had and drove 200km through the desert only to meet a beautiful canyon with a view on the lake where we stayed the nightLäs mer
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Dag 27
fredag 23 juni 2023 10:37
☀️ 23 °C
Höjd över havet: Havsnivå
Aral Sea 44.503808, 58.23305544°30’14” N 58°13’59” E
Aral sea! 🌊🚱
23 juni 2023, Aral Sea ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
After waking up at the shores of the Aral Sea 🌊. We decided to drive down to the shore. Where is saw a couple of yurts. The people they were building housing for tourists so they could offer them a night at that. I will see you for 13 dollars or 130 000 Som.
after a couple of fixes on Markus motorbike and a quick swim in the Aral Sea, which is 20% salt. So floating with no hands or feet in the water as easily possible.
The locals offered us a shower, photo attached, and then we head back through the desert to Munyak which used to be a port city.
The way back, exhausted us a lot as it was very sandy and difficult to drive. We had a slightly bigger incident and mild concussion on the way but we got back safely.Läs mer
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ResenärSwimming in Aral Lake is truely a rare adventure and most likely something witch is only possible for a short time. Make a big checkmark in your bucketlist !!
2023-06-24SvaraÖversätt
ResenärDone ✅
2023-06-24SvaraÖversätt
ResenärLieber Nils ich hoffe sehr das es euch beiden schnell wieder besser geht und die Gehirnerschütterung one Probleme wieder vorbei geht. Vielleicht lasst ihr es in den nächsten Tagen mal ein wenig ruhiger angehen. Pause tut doch auch ganz gut. Danke für die vielen tollen Fotos und Berichte. Mir persönlich wäre es dort zu trocken, staubig und zu steinig. Georgien war mehr so mein ding. Pass gut auf dich auf und weiterhin gute Reise. Liebe Grüße Chaya
2023-06-24SvaraÖversätt
ResenärWir passen auf uns auf, heute Ruhetag !! 😎
2023-06-24SvaraÖversätt
ResenärGute Erholung nach dieser Anstrengung!
2023-06-24SvaraÖversätt
9 gilla-markeringar
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Dag 29
söndag 25 juni 2023 08:08
☀️ 22 °C
Höjd över havet: 49 m
Uzbekistan Mo‘ynoq Shahri 43.789678, 59.03419243°47’23” N 59°2’3” E
Muynak Ship Cemetery
25 juni 2023, Uzbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
It seems like the two days in the desert, visiting the Aral Sea was too much for my European skin.
Sun stroke meant that i stayed in a hotel for 2 nights, drinking lots of water and tea.
The people were super nice and all took very good care of me 🫠.
As it got better again we set off to see some old ships which had been set into the sand where there used to be the Aral sea.Läs mer
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ResenärFreue mich, dass es Dir wieder gut geht, aber Du bist noch nicht in Europa, Sonnenschutz ist angesagt. Gute Weiterfahrt!
2023-06-26SvaraÖversätt
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Dag 30
måndag 26 juni 2023 18:06
☀️ 35 °C
Höjd över havet: 105 m
Uzbekistan Khiva 41.377603, 60.36174741°22’39” N 60°21’42” E
2 1 2
Nokus and Khiva
26 juni 2023, Uzbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C
Still taking it easy, we travelled two days to the cities of Nokus and Khiva, the letter which has a UNESCO world heritage site.
A beautiful town, which is more than 2500 years old where i met many other traveler’s from around the world . A little more expensive that other parts of the country though.
In Nokus we visited a museum and our bikes also got an indoor stay.Läs mer
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Resenär Sieht gut und sauber aus!
2023-06-28SvaraÖversätt
Resenär Würde mir auch gefallen😀
2023-06-28SvaraÖversätt
Resenär Super schön hier! Ich kann es nur empfehlen
2023-06-28SvaraÖversätt
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Dag 32
onsdag 28 juni 2023 11:56
☀️ 35 °C
Höjd över havet: 238 m
Uzbekistan Bukhara 39.77322, 64.41999739°46’24” N 64°25’12” E
2
Bukhara
28 juni 2023, Uzbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C
After a long, six hour ride between an oasis and desert with the sun burning at 40 *C we arrived in Bukhara. Unfortunately, we had to stay on the desert highway the green water region which We could sometimes see was the board to Turkmenistan and we weren’t allowed close.

Bukhara itself is another very old city with great architecture from its time. Upon arriving late, I could enjoy the views at night and woke up in the early morning to make a round in daylight. Also visited an old woman’s house and had plenty of time to read books in a great HotelLäs mer
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Resenär Wäre schade gewesen, hättet Ihr das nicht gesehen
2023-06-28SvaraÖversätt
ResenärJa sehr!
2023-07-03SvaraÖversätt
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Dag 33
torsdag 29 juni 2023 17:10
☀️ 33 °C
Höjd över havet: 706 m
Uzbekistan Koshbakaly 39.664417, 66.98252839°39’52” N 66°58’57” E
Samarkant
29 juni 2023, Uzbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C
Samarkant would be the last city in Uzbekistan. It was nice but i feel the cities were all quite similar and riding between the cities meant going through hot desert like plains during the days. And the cities themselves were also very hot.

I met a British biker called Eddie on a custom cafe racer triumph bike. He had lost his passport unfortunately but was still in a good mood and super helpful with tipps. He
Made a cool video of his UZ trip so far https://www.instagram.com/reel/CuJ2F6eoMo2/?igs…

After some sight seeing in Samarkant we met Hermino a Spanish rider, who would join our group of now 3 to enter Tajikistan 🇹🇯.

Plus i had my first flat tyre, quick and easy fixLäs mer
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Dag 35
lördag 1 juli 2023 09:58
☀️ 10 °C
Höjd över havet: 2 410 m
Tadzjikistan Ozero Azor-Chasma 39.095878, 67.85329539°5’45” N 67°51’12” E
1 1 2
Seven lakes TJ
1 juli 2023, Tadzjikistan ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C
After a smooth border crossing from Uzbekistan to Tajikistan we headed to the famous seven lakes.
The way there was wow, beyond amazing. Beautiful dirt roads climbing to 2,300 meters. One lake after another, some big others small. At the bottom few lakes some people live, and the higher up you go the leas people you find. All the way at the top we were alone with only one other cycling camper.
Stayed a total of two nights. Went for a hike into the mountains on day two.
As we tried to set off the next day Markus motorbike broke down, he is now waiting for a pick up and will need to find the nearest garage.Läs mer
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Resenär Ein Traum!
2023-07-04SvaraÖversätt
Resenär Könnte in der CH sein😀
2023-07-04SvaraÖversätt
Resenär Wer ist wer?
2023-07-04SvaraÖversätt
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Dag 36
söndag 2 juli 2023 19:36
☁️ 33 °C
Höjd över havet: 826 m
Tadzjikistan Badakhshon 38.566942, 68.81022838°34’1” N 68°48’37” E
Entry to Dushanbe
2 juli 2023, Tadzjikistan ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C
Hermino had left the day before from seven lakes and Markus bike had broken down at the lake. So i helped organize an old Russian truck for Markus to load his bike onto and set of to Dushanbe, capital city.

I drove the way with peter a senior biker who has been traveling with world on his transalp.
We drove through the famous 5 k long tunnel of death, and met 6 more polish bikers on the way! We had some good chats and beers in the night.

In Dushanbe we all stayed in a famous biker hostel where i met people coming from Pamir highway ( my next destination) the night was spent sharing stories and beer.

In the morning my bike got a quick service and i went to get a Sim card, permit to drive the Pamir highway and stocked up on supplies for the 10 day tour through Pamir Mountains.

Exciting stuff ahead, great photos and landscapes to come, stay tuned! 🏔️Läs mer
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ResenärWeiterhin viel Glück 🍀
2023-07-04SvaraÖversätt
ResenärDanke!
2023-07-08SvaraÖversätt
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Dag 38
tisdag 4 juli 2023 20:35
☁️ 12 °C
Höjd över havet: 1 274 m
Tadzjikistan Obikhumbob 38.456642, 70.78789538°27’24” N 70°47’16” E
2 1
Pamir highway D1
4 juli 2023, Tadzjikistan ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
On day, one of the Pamir highway, we (Herminio and I) set off from Dushanbe to a small village on the Afghan / Tajik border.
Of course i did not fuel up in Dushanbe where there was good petrol… so i got a refill on the way.
Day one started with a good amount of off-road already, with minor water crossings and a spectacular climb to 3200 meters.
A special landmark we came across was the tulip mountain.
The village in which we wanted to stay in a hostel was unfortunate full… but the owner was so nice to offer us a sleeping place on his balcony for $10 a person with dinner. The entire village was full as a group of 40 Chinese tourists in 10 cars arrived.
This we had a short night on the balcony because we needed to get up early next morning anyways.Läs mer
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ResenärWhat happened to your side cases?
2023-07-08SvaraÖversätt
ResenärSince im doing a loop, and heading back to Dushanbe anyways i thought it would be smart to reduce weight and leave them.
2023-07-08SvaraÖversätt
Resenär 🫢
2023-07-08Svara
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Dag 39
onsdag 5 juli 2023 18:01
☀️ 11 °C
Höjd över havet: 3 175 m
Tadzjikistan Yamchin 36.981738, 72.2625836°58’54” N 72°15’45” E
2
Pamir D2
5 juli 2023, Tadzjikistan ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C
Day two, starts very early alarm at 4 am hit the road at 4:30. The reason was construction on the road we wanted to take, there would be a roadblock from 7 am onwards due to construction. We made it past just-in-time and set off for a very long 500 km stretch again with mostly off-road parts.
On my bike suffered two small injuries, loosing screws from the windshield which were fixed with some cable ties and a flat tire which was also quickly repaired.
The majority of the day we drove in the Wakhan corridor, the border between Afghanistan and Tajikistan. The two countries were separated by a river along which we drove. There were small bunkers along the river.
A quick lunch break and then a final stretch to the famous Fatima hot springs where we spent the night. The hot-springs were on 3200 meters and boiling water came out of the mountain 🤷‍♂️.Läs mer
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Resenär 🫡
2023-07-08Svara
Resenär Was für ein Luxushotel 😀
2023-07-08SvaraÖversätt
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Dag 40
torsdag 6 juli 2023 16:44
⛅ 12 °C
Höjd över havet: 3 608 m
Tadzjikistan Murghab 38.168045, 73.96360838°10’5” N 73°57’49” E
1
Pamir D3
6 juli 2023, Tadzjikistan ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
We spent the night at 3300 meters to acclimatise for our next destination which would be even higher. We passed my some historic ruins which had a great view on Afghanistan and the valley.
First 200 km of the day were very tough dirt and gravel roads, my bike lost two more screws from the wind shield and the back breaks have an oil leak thus i only have front breaks left.
We hit 4300 meters where the air becomes noticeably thinner. We met a Korean guy who was cycling up there… crazy!
Last 100 km were somewhat asphalt and spectacular views, on a plateau of around 3900 meters.
We finally reached murghab, a village far away from any internet or hot water.Läs mer
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Resenär 👍🏻
2023-07-08Svara
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Dag 41
fredag 7 juli 2023 08:49
☁️ -1 °C
Höjd över havet: 4 423 m
Tadzjikistan Murghob District 38.564908, 73.62705338°33’54” N 73°37’37” E
1 2 1 1
Pamir D4
7 juli 2023, Tadzjikistan ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C
The goal for today was to go to the highest point of the highway, where there is a large lake and the Kyrgyzstan border.
The roads are not in particularly good shape and while stopping to meet some other cyclists and motor bikers. I realised my front suspension was broken.
The plan was initially to do The Bartang valley back to Dushanbe. But as this is the most remote part of the Pamir we decided against due to my badly hurt bike.
Instead we had great lunch and a nap at a yurt and climbed to the highest point of my journey 4600+ meters.
From now on its limp home mode with 700 km off-road back to the mechanic.Läs mer
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ResenärDas Du den höchsten Punkt erreicht hast, gefällt mir , finde ich super! Dass Dein Fahrzeug kaputt ist, ist natürlich 😣. Aber was das arme Ding auch aushalten muss, außer einer Wäsche im Fluss
2023-07-09SvaraÖversätt
ResenärSitze jetzt in der Hauptstadt und warte bis die Ersatzteile ankommen
2023-07-10SvaraÖversätt
Resenär Ich bekomme langsam Fernweh☹️
2023-07-09SvaraÖversätt
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Dag 42
lördag 8 juli 2023 15:52
☀️ 15 °C
Höjd över havet: 1 435 m
Tadzjikistan Finjom Tirja 38.3977, 71.15055838°23’52” N 71°9’2” E
Pamir D5&6
8 juli 2023, Tadzjikistan ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
The way back to Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan was along the M41 highway. This is the official Pamir Highway where also the trucks drive, and the main border traffic between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan is going through.
I thought to take this route back as it will be the easiest on my broken suspension.
Along this route, there were many road closures due to construction. So we had to wait a couple of hours every now and then.
In parallel, I had already ordered new suspension and it was waiting for me in Dushanbe. I will be stuck there for a couple of days waiting for the parts to arrive.
In the meantime, washing cleaning, reading and preparing for the next part of the trip.Läs mer
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ABC Going strong [Alessandro]
2023-07-13SvaraÖversätt
ResenärLots of Coffee for me !
2023-07-16SvaraÖversätt
ResenärGute Entscheidung, wenn auch ungewollt. Fährst Du alleine weiter?
2023-07-13SvaraÖversätt
ResenärJap :)
2023-07-16SvaraÖversätt
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Dag 46
onsdag 12 juli 2023 11:36
☀️ 37 °C
Höjd över havet: 838 m
38.570013, 68.81155338°34’12” N 68°48’42” E
Bike repaired!
12 juli 2023 ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C
And after five days in Dushanbe, the suspension arrived, and it was a matter of hours until it was in the Bike.
I spent the days I had with a Ukrainian motorcyclist who has been on the road for two years and the Turkish female moto traveller.Läs mer
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ResenärSuprisingly fast :-)
2023-07-16SvaraÖversätt
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Dag 47
torsdag 13 juli 2023 17:19
☀️ 40 °C
Höjd över havet: 370 m
Tadzjikistan Pakhtakor 40.246017, 70.22779740°14’46” N 70°13’40” E
Leaving Tajikistan
13 juli 2023, Tadzjikistan ⋅ ☀️ 40 °C
43° and not a lot colder in the night, made a tough to sleep, but the campsite was worth it.
Was a nice spot just before the board to Uzbekistan, which I tried to cross the next morning. On my way to Kyrgyzstan.
And of course, I got stuck in the sand 💪Läs mer
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Dag 49
lördag 15 juli 2023 06:37
☀️ 20 °C
Höjd över havet: 1 054 m
Kirgizistan Rodnik Dzhida-Bulak 40.716162, 73.33584740°42’58” N 73°20’9” E
1
Made it to Kyrgyzstan
15 juli 2023, Kirgizistan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
After a long day entering, then leaving Uzbekistan on the same day, I made it to Kyrgyzstan.
I entered close to the capital Osh, it was around 45° and super busy on the streets - traffic. So I decided to grab some money get a Sim card and headed to the mountains. Had enough of cities after 5 days Dushanbe.
This one guy really wanted me to film him making Plof 🍚Läs mer
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Resenär Gute Fahrt!🍀
2023-07-17SvaraÖversätt
ResenärHow was the plof?
2023-07-19SvaraÖversätt
ResenärMuy bueno ;)
2023-07-21SvaraÖversätt
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Dag 49
lördag 15 juli 2023 14:54
☀️ 23 °C
Höjd över havet: 2 048 m
Kirgizistan Shibe 41.569672, 73.22171741°34’11” N 73°13’18” E
2 1 2
Lake Kara Suu
15 juli 2023, Kirgizistan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Kyrgistan is just beautiful lots of nature and beautiful roads.
I spent a night at kara Suu lake on around 2000 meters. The road to there was difficult and heavy off-road causing yet another puncture.
Quite a few locals were this lake too.
Had time to watch the sunset in peace lots of cows walking past and a time to read my bookLäs mer
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Resenär🫶🏼
2023-07-18Svara
ResenärHast Du Ersatzreifen mit, oder war ein weiterer Werkstattbesuch nötig? Ich wünsche Dir 🍀
2023-07-18SvaraÖversätt
Resenär Dauer
2023-07-18Svara
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Dag 51
måndag 17 juli 2023 10:01
☀️ 11 °C
Höjd över havet: 2 987 m
Kirgizistan Ozero Beshtash 42.210055, 72.48378842°12’36” N 72°29’2” E
Lake Besh Tash
17 juli 2023, Kirgizistan ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C
After enjoying the lake so much, I decided to visit another one, as they are in abundance here.
What I did underestimate I was that it’s at 3000 m and in the night it was close to 0°. Meaning I had quite a cold night with not too much sleep.
The way there was perfect again, beautiful, grasslands, smooth of road. As I tried to leave, a family of kyrgis is invited me to have a picnic with them.Läs mer
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ResenärWie gastfreundlich 👍🏻
2023-07-21SvaraÖversätt
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Dag 51
måndag 17 juli 2023 22:37
🌙 12 °C
Höjd över havet: 2 261 m
Kirgizistan Korumdu 42.219288, 73.69968442°13’9” N 73°41’59” E
Re united NL
17 juli 2023, Kirgizistan ⋅ 🌙 12 °C
After a spontaneous check in with Geertjan and Sigrid, a dutch couple i crossed Russia with 3 weeks ago it turned out that we were very close to each other. Thus we decided to have lunch together and spend a night in an interesting ski/youth hostel.
Next night i spent once again, at a lake.
Also had a nice river crossing 💦Läs mer
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ResenärDu hältst das Bike schön sauber😀
2023-07-21SvaraÖversätt
ResenärGenau ahah ;)
2023-07-21SvaraÖversätt
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Dag 53
onsdag 19 juli 2023 19:43
☁️ 15 °C
Höjd över havet: 3 014 m
Kirgizistan Sarybulak 41.873997, 75.01421441°52’26” N 75°0’51” E
2 1 1 1
Amazing son Kul
19 juli 2023, Kirgizistan ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
I spent two amazing nights at the lake son kul. It’s a lake and 3000 m.
I got a tip from my Belgian friends which I met there again that’s on the 20th that would be the Kyrgise famous horse games know as kok boru. In this game, a bunch of men would play horse polo, but with a goat. It is quite a violent sport. Interesting to see how well they control their horses. Of course the game ball was eaten afterwards at dinner.
I stayed in my first Yurt, with a lovely local family, we spent the days playing frisbee, cards and watching horses.
It also turned out that a french horse trekking group would stay at the same yard camp. They spent three weeks on a horse which is quite impressive.Läs mer
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Resenär Werden dort die Felle getrocknet?
2023-07-23SvaraÖversätt
ResenärAlles andere von den Tieren außer die Felle ;)
2023-07-23SvaraÖversätt
Resenär Supi!!!
2023-07-23SvaraÖversätt
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Dag 56
lördag 22 juli 2023 14:11
☁️ 16 °C
Höjd över havet: 3 262 m
Kirgizistan At-Bashinskiy Rayon 40.807675, 76.26324540°48’28” N 76°15’48” E
1 2
Road to köl Suu
22 juli 2023, Kirgizistan ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
Köl Suu is a very remote lake. It’s required to get a special permit as it is so close to the China border region. I request it at the start of the week and it was ready for pick up by the end.
The way there was magnificent, quite difficult and as a result also to light bike falls and 10+ water crossings
By the time I go to the lake, a huge storm is brewing, it would’ve been another 9 km walking, which I then decided to skip and escape from the rain.Läs mer
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Resenär 🥱
2023-07-26Svara
Resenär Ach du Schande!!
2023-07-26SvaraÖversätt
Resenär😂😂
2023-07-26Svara
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Dag 56
lördag 22 juli 2023 18:13
⛅ 14 °C
Höjd över havet: 3 117 m
Kirgizistan Tash Rabat Caravanserail 40.823088, 75.28866740°49’23” N 75°17’19” E
Stone Rabat
22 juli 2023, Kirgizistan ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
A fully day of off-road. Ending with Stone Rabat as a highlight.

Tash-Rabat is the most extraordinary stone monument in all Central Asia and along the Silk Road. This caravanserai is a stone walled, 15th-century roadside inn that served as a Silk Road stationLäs mer
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Resenär👍🏻👍🏻
2023-07-24Svara
5 gilla-markeringar
Road to Mongolia Resenär
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Dag 57
söndag 23 juli 2023 17:05
⛅ 24 °C
Höjd över havet: 1 620 m
Kirgizistan Tong 42.155658, 77.05798342°9’20” N 77°3’29” E
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Beach day!
23 juli 2023, Kirgizistan ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
Lovely day at the waterside relaxing!
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Resenär Hast Du verdient
2023-07-26SvaraÖversätt
6 gilla-markeringar
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Dag 58
måndag 24 juli 2023 12:20
☀️ 12 °C
Höjd över havet: 3 332 m
Kirgizistan Choloktor 41.725033, 77.89399741°43’30” N 77°53’38” E
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Gold mine
24 juli 2023, Kirgizistan ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C
This is the best maintained off-road rout in the country. It leads through multiple glaciers and is on 4000 meters +. At the end of the road there is a gold mine, and they maintain the road so well to ensure smooth transport of all necessary things to the mine.

On the road i met some polish couples here for a week trip. We checked out a waterfall close by and had some great conversations.

An amazing day that ended at the beach once again.Läs mer
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Resenär 👍🏻 diesmal nicht durchs Wasser!
2023-07-27SvaraÖversätt
Resenär 😻
2023-07-27Svara
Resenär Bringst Du ein paar Klumpen mit😀
2023-07-27SvaraÖversätt
6 gilla-markeringar
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Dag 60
onsdag 26 juli 2023 12:43
☀️ 33 °C
Höjd över havet: 1 342 m
Kazakstan Rodnik Kaykyn 43.228533, 79.19890543°13’43” N 79°11’56” E
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Road to Almaty
26 juli 2023, Kazakstan ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C
After a amazing kyrgistan , my next goal was in Kazhastan and Almaty.
The journey there was amazing, and I stayed a night in a hostel, where some lovely Indian friends cooked for me.
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Resenär Lecker!
2023-07-29SvaraÖversätt
5 gilla-markeringar