Smokeys, Rockies & Red Rocks

September - October 2022
Headed out west on the ultimate camper van adventure. Plan to see the Smokey Mountains, the Gateway to the West, Colorado, the National Parks of Utah, the Grand Canyon, Las Vegas, Sedona and more. Read more
  • 56footprints
  • 1countries
  • 33days
  • 560photos
  • 37videos
  • 7.0kmiles
  • 68miles
  • Day 24

    Horseshoe Bend

    September 24, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Horseshoe Bend is a U shaped turn of the Colorado River around the canyon rim near Page, Arizona. We drove out of our way to see this.

    It costs $10 to park, and there is a three-quarter mile walk to the viewpoint. It was sweltering hot but so worth it. Glad we went.Read more

  • Day 25

    Rancho Sedona RV Park

    September 25, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    We made it all the way to Sedona last night. With a last minute reservation, we arrived here at the RV Park after dark and got ourselves set up by flashlight. This might just be the best RV Park ever, certainly the nicest one I've stayed at. Our premium site, the only one that was available, backs up to Oak Creek and we can here it bubbling from our RV site. These sites go for $114 a night, so they better be premium. Everything is stellar and the bath and laundry areas are very clean.

    It was dark driving in, so we are anxious to explore. Sedona is a lot different than I expected. It's chilly in the evenings high 50s. It's lush green, with trees and creeks and mountains. Downtown is quaint, upscale and a bit rustic like a small mountain lodge type of town.

    We made Spaghetti sauce and drank a bottle of wine before falling asleep with the windows open.

    Today we plan to go into town, do a jeep tour and come back for walking and shopping Sedona. Tomorrow, we're planning to drive and hike the 4 vortexes.
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  • Day 25

    Shopping Sedona

    September 25, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    We rode our bikes to downtown Sedona and had a couple of hours to shop before our Jeep tour. We got some caffeinated beverages for energy and hydrated well as it was very hot. We shopped for gem stones, hats, t-shirts and magnets. I bought a couple of stones, a carnelian and a lapis, and Kris bought a ring.Read more

  • Day 25

    Sedona Pink Jeep Tour

    September 25, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    We signed up for the Pink Jeep Touch the Earth Tour that explored Sedona's vortexes. Michelle was our tour guide and there were five of us on the tour.

    We drove past, around and behind Thunder Mountain, the very mountain that the Disney ride is modeled after. We went to Cathedral Rock which is one of the four vortexes. We learned about local wildlife including the many varieties of rattle snakes and the javelinas, but we didn't see any today. We did see plenty of cactus and prickly pear fruit, Juniper trees, agave, yucca, and the Ocotillo "Little Torches". We heard that we should make it a point to go to the Airport Mesa, another one of the vortexes.

    We went to the Boyton Canyon area and Fay Canyon. Here we went off road through steep and bumpy terrain and puddles to Mystic Vista for a view. We took a few minutes to feel the energy.

    Sedona is a dark sky community, meaning at night they have a lights out or low lights policy. The purpose of the dark sky policy is to protect plants and animals in their natural environment.. Another great benefit is that you can see all the stars in the sky.

    After the jeep tour, we headed across the street to the Cowboy Club where we enjoyed cactus fries and prickly pear sauce. Kris had a Prickly pear mojito that was so strong she could barely ride her bike back to the campground.
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  • Day 26

    Boynton Canyon Trail

    September 26, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    We woke up at 6 am to make it out early before the heat. We thought surely we'd be done by 10 am, so we brought only 1.5 liters of water each and some sunflower seeds.

    About 20 minutes in, the sweatshirts came off. It was 60 degrees. We took the first cut off to the right to go to the Vista. It was a beautiful view. We took a moment to feel the vortex, place out our stones and set our intentions. Yesterday, I purchased a lapis stone. I was attracted to this stone and asked the lady about it. "It's a stone of Egyptian origin that targets the throat Chakra." Of course it does. I've been struggling with using my authentic voice and have been experiencing severe jaw pain from aTMJ flare up. I receive a message... "Don't think about the whole project because that is shutting you down and preventing you from getting started. Instead receive guidance on what you should do each day."

    Only about 1.5 miles in, we contemplated whether this was the end of our hike or if we should go further. This hike not counting the one mile diversion we took, is 6 miles. Kris wanted to go a little further down the trail.

    As we hiked, we heard rumors along the way about a specific "alligator tree", branches on the ground specifying an alternative path, and a "birthing cave". Birthing cave got my attention. At this point, I wasn't sure we'd make it there and back but my fear of missing out would not let me turn around. Kris was hungry. We stopped and sat on some rocks to eat some sunflower seeds.

    I was using my All Trails app and kept checking it only to find out multiple times that we weren't on the right path. Three and a half miles in we made it to the "birthing cave" we thought, just based on what people on the trail were telling us. However, it was actually The Subway cave. There were two different ways up. One was a very steep narrow climb that required a lot of upper body strength and no falling or slipping. I made it one-third of the way up this and realized I couldn't do it, so I had to maneuver my way back down with a steep drop below me. I made it. Today was not my day to die. I found the alternate path around the side. That path was still a steep climb and I used branches and rocks to pull myself up.

    At the top, we sat inside a cave. I now realize this is not Birthing Cave, as that is on the Long Canyon Trail. I can't imagine the Hopi women coming up to this cave to give birth. It was a pretty strenuous hike. Whatever it is called, it was serene and had beautiful views. We rested and took it all in before hiking back down the three miles to the parking lot.

    It was a 6.3 mile hike that took us 5 hours. It had an 823 foot elevation gain, and we burned almost 2200 calories.
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  • Day 26

    Airport Mesa Grill

    September 26, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    The airport Mesa is another one of the four vortexes where the electric magnetic energy is stronger. People come to these vortexes not only for the beautiful views and sunsets but for healing and spiritual renewal.

    Kris and I were so exhausted after our hike that we almost didn't go. We also had rain this afternoon and it was cloudy, so we weren't sure how much of a sunset there would be. But regardless, at the last minute we decided to head that way.

    The last half mile of the hike did my knees in, so I couldn't walk from the restaurant to the Mesa overlook, but Kris did while I reserved a table.

    The Mesa Grill sits on the airport and from the patio area where we ate, we had beautiful views of the red rocks, airplanes landing and taking off, and the brilliant sky from the setting sun.
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  • Day 27

    Birthing Cave at Long Canyon Trail

    September 27, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    I had to go back to the Birthing Cave. I woke up and my knees were stellar, so I headed out in the early morning. As I approached the trailhead, there was a young woman there. "Are you going to Birthing Cave?" She asked. "Yes, I am," I replied. There was absolutely no phone signal there so we couldn't access All Trails or the maps. But, I was prepared and had downloaded the map ahead of time. I asked her if she'd like to join me.

    We headed down the trail. "We're looking for the wooden fence and we turn left there," I told her. We made one premature turn, but quickly got back on track. I could see Birthing Cave on the map and the GPS was working on my phone which allowed me to see exactly where we were on the trail.

    She is from Oregon and goes on road trips, camping in her Ford Explorer as she travels. She looks young, early 20s maybe.

    I told her about my hiking experience yesterday and how we were looking for the Birthing Cave. I told her I was a midwife and that's why I was so intrigued by the site. Well, it was almost like it was meant to be. This young Pilgrim who joined me on this trail is enrolled in a "midwife" program. She is enrolled in the Free Birth Society Birthkeeper's certification course. Apart from anyone's views on this newish trend in freebirthing, we could hold space together. She came to this place without ever attending a birth up to this day, but just knowing that birth should be a sacred space where a women holds sovereignty and power. We are here for the same reason.

    I applaud her for her journey, so young. She is birthing herself, starting a new business preparing and delivering meals for postpartum mothers. Starting out in life, hoping she will have her own children one day. I'm ready to retire and pass the baton to another.

    We make it to the top after a steep climb at the end which required careful foot placement and hand holding of rocks to steady and pull myself up, careful to avoid the cactuses.

    Once atop, the sun was hot and bright. It was steep and the rock was slippery and difficult to find a place to grip myself. How did the Hopi women get here and give birth here? Not impossible, for sure. These were strong women. Resilient women who were used to living in the wild. Another young woman from Minnesota was there. She also travels alone, sleeping in her pop-up tent on top of her vehicle.

    It was difficult to take pictures as the sun was so bright and I couldn't see the picture on my camera. I randomly snapped, hoping I would get a few good pictures.

    After 20 minutes in the Birthing Cave, it was time to make my careful descent down the steep slope, backwards. "What is your name?" I asked her. Victoria and I shared info and hopefully she will look me up and contact me.

    Thinking back, I wonder if Native American women did birth here or if they just named it Birthing Cave because it resembles a vagina. Well, it does!
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  • Day 27

    Page Springs Winery Tour

    September 27, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    I headed up to Page Springs to hit a few wineries before heading out of the area. This is a self-conducted tour, by the way. My first stop was Page Springs Cellars. This winery was delightful and I spent my time enjoying my plush suite indoors. The patrons around me were all European so their language only made the experience more exotic for this pure-blooded, at least fifth generation American.

    I ordered a flight tasting, a glass of my favorite Colibri Mourvedre, and the Mediterranean Sampler. Everything was wonderful and I left with two bottles. Behind the tasting room are some of their vineyards and barrels. I took a walk around before heading out to the next winery just yards away.

    My second stop was Oak Creek Winery. I ordered a mixed white and red flight of wine and enjoyed while sitting outside by a fountain that sounded like a live creek. Nearby was a group of seven African American military retirees with matching hats. They came in with a 2.5 foot loaf of French bread in a bag which they passed around the table and each pinched off a hunk. They get more and more lively the more they drink. One of them breaks out in doing and starts dirty dancing to Tiesta's The Business... I love hearing their chatter. They are from all over, several from Detroit and they vacation together. They've been vacationing together for many years now.

    My last stop is Javelina Leap. All of their wines are dry, bone dry, which means they have less than 1% sugar. I've never heard that terminology used before, but it is a thing. Bone dry is my style in wine. I talked to Kim who is the wife of the owner. The parents live on the back of the property and Kim is married to their son. They live at the front of the property with their two young sons. Their motto is to only make bone dry wines. If you like sweet, they serve sangria for you.

    I said goodbye to Kris today. At home, our friends and family are preparing for the imminent hurricane, Ian. Because of this, Kris feels called to return to check on everything sooner than I can drive her there. I know it's been a very tense time for everyone back in Florida. I keep having flashbacks to Irma (another hurricane that stared with I).
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  • Day 28

    Ghost Town, USA

    September 28, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    I slept at a Conoco near Flagstaff on 89 North last night. Got up early and headed out by 7 am.

    Driving on 89 North, I passed ghost town after ghost town. It left an unsettled, eerie feeling. This is Navajo country. It's desert sand for miles as far as you can see; no water, no cattle, no businesses besides an occasional gas station.

    On the sides of the road are Navajo arts and crafts for sale, flea market style, but they are closed; it's only 7:20 am. I passed communities of dozens of modular homes, each matching the other, and plenty of run down trailers. A single wide trailer might have ten parked vehicles outside and another ten that are junked nearby. On 160 East, I spied glittering specks in the terra cotta sand. Is it gold? No, it's broken glass and litter everywhere for miles up and down the road. It makes me sad and disappointed, but I'm not sure who or what to direct my disappointment. Poverty permeates this area, and I can only imagine all the vices and evils that accompany poverty are here as well. After watching Wind River a few years ago, a movie based on a true story of missing women in Wyoming tribal lands, my imagination runs wild. I do not stop here. I have no pictures.
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  • Day 28

    Four Corners

    September 28, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Four Corners is where four states meet... Arizona, Utah, Colorado and New Mexico all come together on a T. It's on tribal land, and they charge $8 per person to enter.

    This wasn't a planned stop, but it was on my route and I couldn't miss the opportunity. Four Corners is located in the middle of nowhere. The roads and property leading up to the actual center are run down. The bathrooms are closed and roped off with a sign that says, "No water." Along all four sides of the venue are booths with vendors selling Native American jewelry, t-shirts and other Native American artifacts and memorabilia. I bought a Four Corners magnet for Lil' Miss, took some pictures and headed out to Mesa Verde National Park.

    There was 10 miles of construction just east of Four Corners with rough gravel roads and potholes. I made it through and to Mesa Verde just a little over an hour east.

    At Mesa Verde, I stopped at the visitor center first and walked around outside, inside the museum exhibits and the gift shop. I stamped my passport and went to buy a stamp when I realized that I didn't have my wallet with me.

    I returned to the van and searched everything four times, trying to stay calm and focused.. I looking in every nook and cranny and even under the seats. It wasn't there. I tried calling Four Corners but just received a voice-mail message. Doug was helping me too by calling around and helping me stay calm. I went back inside the visitor center to see if it was there, retracing my steps and asking multiple park rangers. It was not in the lost and found. I left my name and number in case they found it, and returned to the van to look again. I checked my bank accounts and credit card accounts and nothing was unexpected.

    Four Corners was just over an hour away, even longer with construction delays, but I had to go back. I returned to Four Corners, receipt in hand, to retrace my steps. I talked to the lady at the entrance and the people at the administration office. I spoke to the vendor who sold me the magnet, checked the parking lot where I was parked, and drove real slow checking the sides of the road. Nada. At the construction stop, I asked the DOT employees, the girl holding the stop sign, and she radio'd to her team. I even called the tribal police department.

    I called the 800 number at Chase Bank to see about freezing my cards, followed all the prompts and waited for a representative. Finally, they said, "Sorry, we can't help you. Call back another time."

    My mind is obviously somewhere else today. I'm thinking about home and the hurricane making landfall this afternoon... my daughter and her family, Doug, my brother and sister, friends, and the birth center and staff. I'm thinking about them and praying for their safety.

    I proceeded to return to Cortez, Colorado the town nearby Mesa Verde, thinking about what I would do next. Certainly I will take pictures of all my cards in the future and place one card somewhere safe in another location. I did have $500 cash, and that could surely get me to a Chase Bank to get more cash to get home.

    Driving back into Cortez for the second time, I see that the Fiesta Twin Cinema is playing "Don't Worry Darling". That message is for me. I needed to stop at Walmart to get a new septic hose, as the one that came with with the van fell out of the compartment. The sewer hose compartment on this van is a flawed design that never would lock correctly. Doug and I had discussed this and knew it was just a matter of time before the slinky went slinking down the road behind Little Miss. Well today was that day.

    I pulled over in the Walmart parking lot and took a minute to see if I could stay there overnight. Yes, RV parking is allowed here. Very good. I reached down for Betty Boo (my pistol) and some cash to go into Walmart... and what did I see laying right there between the underneath of the passenger seat and the middle console that I created to store things? My wallet!

    Man, I was so relieved. I can not tell you how much. But still shaken from the stress of the day. I went in and bought my favorite Walmart bakery item, Peanut Butter Fudge No Bake Cookies, because I needed to stress eat. I got fuel in the van, cleaned the windshield, parked the van and set up for the night, and cooked dinner.

    Tonight I will be taking pictures of all the cards in my wallet and putting them in my phone and Google drive.

    I'd like to think there was some greater purpose for all the hoopla of the day, that I am exactly where I need to be. And now I can say that I literally went to the Four Corners of the earth looking for something.... and I found it. It was right here all the time.
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