Johnston Canyon and Banff Gondola

We woke usual 6ish aiming to make an early start to head towards Banff and go first to Johnston Canyon, an easy walk to a couple of waterfalls. I had read it gets very busy, both parking and the train itself, so we wanted to get there early. Managed to pack everything away and get some breakfast and left hotel at 8.15. Followed highway 1 to Banff and went through the gates to the National Park (we had our passes so could go through the fast lane). We came off to the 1A at Banff and followed its for 20 minutes or so. The speed along here was 60 or 50 km/h so it was a gentle drive - we followed a sightseeing bus. Got to the car park and ther main one was about half full at 9am. Some nice toilets which we used then we began the walk. It was a smooth path, often cantilevered over the edge of the canyon (Tash thought a bit like a safer version of those scary paths you see on YouTube in China). The lower falls were about half a milky walk and we got there in about 25 minutes with lots of stops for photos. The canyon was cooler being out of the sun so we were glad we brought jumpers. At the lower falls we queued to go into a little cave that got you very close to the water - just about worth the 5 minutes or so wait. Chatted to a Canadian couple who recommended Maligne Canyon in Jasper as bit less busy and still nice.

We headed off to the upper falls. Kids were beginning to moan about the walk but we carried on and got there in about half an hour. Upper falls were 1.5 miles walk. Lots of people stopped at the lower falls so this was less busy. The track just ended in a bridge suspended over the river that gave you a view towards the upper falls, maybe 3 or 4 houses high with two streams coming down. You only got the best view right at the end of the bridge walkway so if it got busier later a real queue would develop here too we thought.

Then headed black and encountered a busier trail with people coming the other way. Arriving back at the start we just caught last breakfast order at 11 in the cafe before it shut for an hour, reopening for lunch at 12. I had an omelette (green onions and ham, very tasty) Sam and Tash had steak, Ed wasn't that hungry so he had the fried potatoes and some steak from then others plates. We hit the shop for fridge magent and a cuddly beaver and wolf. Then back to the car via the toilets again - ladies were being cleaned, which meant a huge queue for the disabled ladies one. Not great timing right in middle of day when crowds were huge. Car park was full, as was the overflow one when we drove past and people were parlayed all the way along ther road for probably a mile or so, so definitely good to get there early.

Sat nav was troublesome as no mobile signal, but got one when we reached Banff outskirts and found the hotel. Room wasn't ready but we parked there and walked into town, about 10 minute walk. We had coffee in Starbucks, then bought some souvenirs, including Christmas decorations form tthe hritsmas shop. Banff was much busier and more touristy than Canmore. Lots of slightly tacky souvenir shops bit like an English seaside resort. But also sone designer shops, like Fjall Raven and Lulu lemon that all meant something to Tash.

An ice cream shop had a huge queue, but we went into a sweet shop that also sold it, with some unusual flavours (I had scoop of male nut and of tiger (orange and liquorice strip like a tiger). Very nice in the heat. Was after 3 now so walked back to hotel, room still not ready. Finally got into it at 4, had only just been finished. Had panic when checked gondola tickets, I had thought they'd were for any time after 4.30, but looked like they were for 4.30. The car park up there was showing as full so we were committed to the bus, with the next one at 4.37. Hotel key card gave free bus travel, so all we could do was head for that and hope gondola would be ok. Bus was on time and took about 15 minutes to get there. Went to guest services who said our print outs were our tickets so just join the queue. They were boarding 5.00pm, and we were just allowed through to join the queue and were on board our 4 seater about 10 minutes later. Panic over. The gondola went fast and summit was very high. Sam was not keen on it and held on tightly to Ed. Views were obscured a Benoit Buu smoke from the forest fires. We got to the top after about 5 minutes. The complex at the top had 4 levels, open viewing on top which we headed to first and took lots of photos, coopting others into taking us in return for us taking them. Parks Canada have a red chair scheme where they put red chairs in odd places on hikes etc for people to find - there were two up here which we had obligatory pics with. Next level down was a discovery section, with lots of interactive exhibits. We spent a few minutes talking to a chap behind a stand with an elk, deer and cougar skull. He talked about the wildlife and Ed was fascinated as always. Cougars can attack and kill an elk, hunting alone. Out the window we saw our first Mountain Longhorn sheep - looked more like a goat and we heard many people calling them goats. Other exhibits which were good fun included tying knots, which we think we managed correctly, compass directions, lifting heavy backpacks and footproints and poo of various animals. The grisly paw print was huge, definitely wouldn't want a swipe from one of those.

It was time for our 6pm sitting. A lady from Yorkshire seated us and our friendly waitress brought water and menus. We had some nice Canadian Rose, with 3 scallop starters and pork belly and egg for me. All tasty. Main courses took ages to come, maybe because of them taking extra care with Sam;s dairy free. We both had bison (aka buffalo) steak, Tash had seafood medley (which didn't come out singing a selection of show tunes) and chicken supreme for Ed.They were all decently when they arrived. None of the desserts inspired us and we headed down. The food had been good but spoiled by the delay in getting it. Was decent value when compared with price of a gondola ticket on it's own.

Kids got t shirts from the shop and me a magnet. Gondola down had no queue and we got our photo taken, which came out nicely. At the bottom the bus was 6 minutes away so week timed. The indicator board was accurate, better than the lack of ones in Putney now.

Room wasn't air conditioned in bedrooms, just fans, though was in the lounge area. All told Canmore hotel was nicer and cheaper, but being in Banff in the National Parl comes at a premium.Read more