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New Zealand Sabbatical

July - August 2015
A 49-day adventure by Mark Read more
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  • Mark SmithNew Zealand Sabbatical
    Day 10

    Treetop walk

    July 19, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    So it carried on snowing during the night and the transport agency indicated chains would be needed from Arthur's Pass. When we got outside it was a beautiful day, sunny with blue skies and a snow covering. Probably a couple of inches on the top of the car, but the roads looked to have been gritted and ploughed (we had heard snow ploughs going through in the night, Tash thought it was an earthquake).

    We brushed off the snow and drove to the cafe in town for a coffee. Just before the cafe was a checkpoint - we parked before and walked, stopping to chat with the old guy on the barrier. He said we'd be fine to drive through with the 4wd just take it easy and the longer we left it the more the roads would be clear.

    Fuelled by coffee and toasties (and a chocolate milkshake that turned out to be caramel) we set off. The roads were actually fine, largely clear of anything other than grit. We stopped at a couple of viewpoints to look down the Otira Gorge. The first one was on a side road up a hill, we went up followed by another car, who couldn only make it half way - the benefits of 4wd. Views were spectacular and the snow made it even better. We carried on to Hokitika and avfter about 15km or so the snow had vanished completely.

    Sam and I remembered Hokitika from our last trip - we'd stopped for a short bite to eat and there is a distinctive clock tower in the middle, reminiscent of Skegness!. The visitor information was open and we got tickets for the treetop walkway and went to their cafe for lunch. The walkway was interesting - about 5 stories up near the treetops, a bit bouncy to walk along and the floor was see through grills. Various stops around the way told you things about the rainforest. One stop was a taller tower, 47m up, with great views across to the snow capped mountains. The other notable one was a cantilevered gantry that bounced and wobbled when you were at the end. A good way to spend an hour.

    From the gift shop lady we got directions to Hokitika Gorge, about 40 minutes drive away she told us (the misleading map made it look about 10 minutes away0. The drive was nice with the mountains in front of us and we parked up and set off. 4 minutes in was a viewpoint down to the chain bridge which was 10 minutes in. The chain bridge was great fun, very wobbly as you walked and more so when certain people bounced up and down. We then went down to the waterfront, an amazing blue colour to the water and clambered over the rocks. Good views and experience for a relatively short walking time we decided.

    Back to Hokitika and the Shining Star Beachfront Accommodation. Got checked in and a recommendation for dinner (Stumpers pub in town) and went to our chalet, kids room upstairs. Straight onto the beach, which, as someone had told me, had lots of large lumps of driftwood on it. We spent 45 minutes down there, kids being chased by waves coming in, which were surprisngly fast, Ed struggling to outrun at one point.

    After food at Stumpers we called into the Glow Worm Dell across the road from the accomodation. Had to resort to the phone torch to see our way up the path. Turning it out at the end revealed hundreds of tiny spots of light in the bushes, real live wild glow worms. We turned in for the night, planning to visit the Kiwi Sanctuary in town next day.    Read more

  • Mark SmithNew Zealand Sabbatical
    Day 11

    Glaciers

    July 20, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    We spent the morning in Hokitika. First off on the beach again, no0one else there at 10am. Then went to the National Kiwi Centre to see....Kiwis. The Tua Tara dinosaur lizards were hiding away, too cold for them we thought. The eels (locally known as tuna but nothing like a tuna fish we would know) were a bit creepy - loads of them in a big tank, mostly 80-100 years old, with the oldest at 130. Out the back was an indoor lake with crayfish in it, with bait and hooks for you to catch them (and return them). The kids located one on the bottom and had it nibbling the bait, but Tash was a bit reluctant to actually pull it up, so I slowly wound it in with Ed on net duty. First effort it fell off just before getting the net under, but we dangled down the bait again and this time were successful. Pictures duly taken with our catch before returning it.

    Then on to the star attraction the Kiwis. Their enclosure was kept dark as they are nocturnal and we went in quietly and as our eyes adjusted saw movement toward the back. Moving further in we saw a kiwi running quickly aroun the enclosure, occasionally coming up towards us. After a few minutes watching we headed out and saw another kiwi right next to the glass, a great close up view. They are bigger than we had imagined.

    The kids got their crayfish fishermen certificates stamped and we went to look at some of the greenstone/jade jewellery shops. Nothing appealed (some items were very expensive and the cheaper ones clearly mass produced overseas). We visited the Co-operative Gallery, run by local artists and bought a small wicker pouch (Ed) and a painted stone (Sam). I went to move the car as our 1 hours were up and met the others back in a cafe for lunch. The cafe guy said actually the parking restrictions weren't operating at the moment so my moving the car was wasted effort.

    With more time know we went into the Wilderness Gallery (which like the Co-operative had been recommended on line). They had lots of nice things and we bought two wooden blocks with photos on of the beach and the gorge. Even better they were half price as they were odd sizes the owner wasn't producing any more. Ed bought two cute stones painted as a penguin and a kiwi. Jurgen the owner from Germany was very friendly and chatted about rugby amongst other things.

    Tash still wanted some jade so we went into a smaller shop, Heritage Jade and found lots of nice pieces, more reasonably priced than elsewhere and made by the guy in the shop, Colin. I bought a piece for Tash and Ed (as they are supposed to be given as gifts).

    Then into the car for the drive to Franz Josef. Took about 1 hour 40 minutes t get there as expected. We found our motel and checked in, nice room again then headed down to the glacier to have a look 0 it's about 3km out of town to the car park, another 90 minute round trip walk to the face from there. We decided to do the 20 minute round trip up to Sentinel Peak with viewing platform across to the glacier, then a short forest walk to the riverbed, where you would continue if you wanted to go to the glacier face - we decided it would be too dark by the time we got back so stayed there, with Ed jumping the glacial stream and throwing rocks in. The glacier has definitely receded quite a long way from when Sam and I were here in 2003 - it's right up the valley now.

    Back to the motel and food from the Chinese restaurant next door, ready for kayaking next day.    Read more

  • Mark SmithNew Zealand Sabbatical
    Day 12

    Kayaks and Glaciers

    July 21, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Day started at 8.30 at Glacier Country Kayaks, fortunately right next door to our motel. Us 4 and a lady from New York called Sarah were on the tour. Our guide drove us out to Lake Mapourika in a minibus with trailer behind full of kayaks. Quick lesson in how to paddle and dressed ourselves in rubber skirt and pogies (rubber gloves that fit to the paddle handle) and we got into kayaks. Eddie and me in one double, Sam and Tash in another.

    We paddled off with mist across the lake in patches and great reflections fo the surrounding trees and mountains - very tranquil setting. The sun came out and it started to warm up. Ed and I ere reasonable at paddling together. I was too tall to use the rudder so we had to steer using the paddles. Sam and Tash were less good and there was a constant banter of "Steer mummy, steer" and "paddle" from there boat. We stopped mid lake for some info on how it was formed - the melting end of the glacier displaced the earth millions of years ago, leaving the lake about 80m deep. We paddled further towards the Kiwi Sanctuary where a rare breed of Kiwi found only in this local area (historically it was cut off from anywhere else by glaciers on either side). The kiwi is being bred and released back into the wild and numbers are increasing.

    We paddled round to a hidden bay - Echo Bay - Ed shouted his name with a great echo coming back. Further into the bay the channel narrowed and we paddled in right tot he heart of Kiwi habitat. Needless to say Tash and Sam had few encounters with the banks. Some of the trees here were 800 years old.

    I'd had Ed's and my gloves balanced on my 'skirt' for a while and when we stopped towards the end of the creek one of each was missing!. Paddling back we found Ed's floating on the side of the creek and our guide found mine further up. Lucky gloves!

    We paddled back the ay we had come and despite the landing point seeming to never get any closer we made it. Ed had got cold hands and paddled only occasionally by now so I was getting very achy paddling me, him and the heavy double kayak. Tash and Sam were lagging behind and got a tow from our guide to bring them home quicker. Ed and I ran aground just off shore and needed a shove back into deeper water to approach the beach from a slightly better angle.

    Back on shore and into the minibus to the office. An enjoyable trip and great place for our first kayak experience.

    We got lunch on the Kiwi Wildlife Centre in town (great pies) as we had a couple of hours before check in for our glacier flight.

    At 1.45 we checked in and were taken over to the helicopter landing area. We had to wait a few minutes for our copter to return with some hikers and were entertained by the ground staff guy, who barely paused for breath. Another couple on our flight had never touched snow before! We took off with Steve our pilot and he gave a commentary on what we were seeing as we flew up the glacial valley, landing on the neve at the top. We spent just under 10 minutes on the snow up there, with the kids having snowball fights before returning back down the valley, with some extra banked turns thrown in for excitement. Really memorable flight.

    We went back to the motel and picked up towels and swimming costumes and headed to the Glacier Hot Pools. 3 pools at 36, 38 and 40 degrees. Sam had a massage while we started in the 36 pool. We switched to the 38 pool but this was definitely colder. The 40 one was much warmer and we spent most time in the 36. We were in for just under 2 hours altogether relaxing muscles from kayaking earlier.

    Tea was in the Landing where we got a special menu of burgers for free with our kayak booking. The burger was excellent, probably better then the ones in the Skygarden. Wine and desert good too and we left happy. Drive to Wanaka tomorrow, a long one.    Read more

  • Mark SmithNew Zealand Sabbatical
    Day 13

    Lots of Lakes

    July 22, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    We were up fairly early and away by about 9.15. It was a frosty morning and we used a spatula to scrape the ice off the windows. Our first stop was only 20km away at Lake Matheson near Fox Glacier. It still took half an hour to drive it as it was winding mountain roads up and down.

    The lake is famous for its reflecting views of Mounts Tasman and Cook, the two highest mountains in New Zealand. Sam and I had been years ago, but it had been upgraded since then with better car park and a cafe and gallery shop now on site - nothing there before.

    We set off to walk to the first and second viewpoints which appeared to be 20 minutes to the first then another 5 minutes or so to the second. We got to the first Jetty View Point after about 15 minutes and took some pictures though there was a slight breeze rippling the surface and disrupting the perfect reflection. We then went on to the second View of Views point, which turned out to be another 16 minutes or so further on - turns out the timings at the start depended on which way round the lake you went and they weren't actually close together. Ed and I took a picture here then headed back with Sam and Tash. The extra walk turned out to be a good thing as when we got back to the Jetty viewpoint the wind had dropped and the reflections were postcard perfect - spectacular.

    Then back to the cafe for bagel and monster egg, bacon and sausage buns - hoovered up by Sam and Ed. We headed off a little later than planned at about 11.45. 10 minutes up the road were were held at a stop sign as a one lane bridge was blocked by men on a hoist painting it. We waited about 15 minutes until more traffic had built up and the men felt it worthwhile stopping and allowing traffic through.

    Next stop was at a viewpoint over the ocean just before Haast -some cliff formations a little like the Needles and a toilet block too. Off again and past Haast another hold up as men were repairing the road, only a bit over 5 minutes this time.

    We carried on and missed Roaring Billy where we had intended to stop for a hort walk to the waterfall and instead stopped at Thunder Creek waterfall, which pleased Ed as you could climb down onto the rocks at the riverside. Waterfall was impressive.

    Continuing on we skipped the Blue Pools as the walk would take too long and kept going until stopping at a lake about 20 miles before Wanaka. There were some toilets and again we walked on the shore line where Ed messed around with driftwood and rosck. Lots of smoke was coming from the other shore creating an odd cloud formation over the lake.

    We pressed on to Wanaka, passing Puzzling World (a visit for another day) and found the motel, then headed into town. Tash bought a jumper and Ed a mug then we went into the iSite just before it closed. We booked a JetBoat ride for Friday morning then discussed skiing for Tash and Ed. They have a good intro 2 hour package for $99. They weren't sure so the lady said we could come back tomorrow and book and we could move the Jet Boat earlier if we wanted to do the skiing.

    Then food in Speights Alehouse and home as earlyish start tomorrow as flight moved from 11am to 9am o ensure we beat the weather.    Read more

  • Mark SmithNew Zealand Sabbatical
    Day 14

    No Milford Sound, but Jet Boats and Skis

    July 23, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    As instructed, called Southern Alps Air at 8am, who said din't look good for flight to Milford, but call again for final decision at 9. Weather was great in Wanaka, 10 degrees and no frost overnight. But wet and cloudy at Milford and 9am saw the trip called off and rolled over to tomorrow.

    So we set off to the visitor centre to see if we could move the jet boat to earlier this morning and book the beginners ski package at Treble Cone for the kids for the afternoon. We had a coffee while the lady sorted us out. Jet boat rebooked fo 10.20 today and skiing booked to start at 1.20. We used the spare time to hire some warmer waterproof trousers, coats and gloves in town and then just made it to the jet boat before 10.30. Turned out we were the only passengers apart from a guy from the company's office who had never doen it and so tagged along. Steve our driver took us and the boat over to the launch site on the Clutha River (which starts at Lake Wanaka). We got out life vests on and hopped in the boat. Ed, Tash and I in front with Steve, Sam and mystery guest in second row, third row empty.

    The trip was excellent, a fast start then a slower part towards the lake with great views of the mountains (including Treble Come where we were heading later). This section had a speed limit as it is popular with swimmers etc in the summer. We didn't go on the lake as it was quite choppy, but instead went further down the river.

    We went back up river weaving in and out of trees and rapids, with Ed and Tash grinning massively. The first Hamilton turn (named after the inventor of jet boats, a kiwi in the sixties) threw up a shower of spray to everyone's delight. We slowed again to look at old gold mining sites on the river banks where the water had been used in hoses to wash the bank away into sluices. Several thousand people had worked on each section at its peak. More turns and spins (the jet boat pushes out a bath full of water through its jet tube every second) and we headed back tot he start at full speed with maximum spins, twists turns and splashes. We'd been in the boat just over an hour but it didn't seem like it. Minibu back to the office and some quick directions to Treble Cone and we picked up the car and were off.

    Took about 35 minutes to get there, the last 15 minutes being up an unsealed (basically compacted earth) road up the mountainside, steep, twisty and turning. Ed started talking about the final scene of the Italian Job and was told to keep quiet. We made it up, parked and got our lift passes then kids were fitted out with boots, skis and helmets and met there instructor Connie. Sam and I watched for a bit then went to get some food, sitting on the terrace watching the area where the kids were learning. They started sliding on one ski, then progressed to two down a shallow couple of metre slope, then used the conveyor lift to slide down a 10 metre or so slope. Soon Tash was turing around cones (neither had poles - easier to learn without apparently). Ed found it a bit tougher as he (as ever) wants to be an instant expert, but he improved also and they moved on to the button lift up the big slope. Ed sat out for a bit until he had seen that Tash was having a great time then was keen to get back involved. He enjoyed this 'proper' skiing bit more than the initial training bits. Tash was brilliant and really enjoyed it. Ed did too by the end. We had tickets to go up the chair lift but didn't have much time and the kids wanted to keep going around the conveyor lift for a bit, so we skipped it. Grabbed a couple of hot chocolates then back down the death road!

    Safely back and Tash and I dropped the hire clothes back and picked up some pasta to cook in the chalet as we didn't fancy eating out tonight Another good day and maybe Milford tomorrow.    Read more

  • Mark SmithNew Zealand Sabbatical
    Day 15

    Milford Sound

    July 24, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    So this morning's call was good news and we were on for the Milford Flight, leaving at 11 once the fog had cleared a little, so had to be at Wanaka airport for 10.30. Ed was still keen on mini golf at some point so I checked the opening times and found a place called Take a Shot right opposite the airport that opened at 9, so we headed straight there.

    It was open, but unsurprisingly no0one else was there. The course was a good one with long holes. Ed managed to lose a ball, but still ended up winning by a couple of shots from Tash, with Sam third and me last. We finished about 19.29 and drove over the road to the airport and checked in for our flight (basically we paid) then headed over to the diner style cafe across the car park and had coffee and toasties. Ed bought a model plane and got a free poster and we headed off to the plane. Our pilot Nick put me in the front seat with him, with Ed at the back (he needed small people at the back to aid take off). The plane was a small single prop, with every one getting a window seat. We took off smoothly and flew across great scenery of snow capped mountains and lakes, photo opportunities galore. after about 40 minutes we reached the coast and turned into Milford Sound and flew along the length of it to land on the small airstrip.

    A 2 minute bus trip took us to the boat terminal where we got our tickets for the Mitre Peak Cruise boat. The boat was one of the smaller ones and wasn't too crowded. We had booked a packed lunch so ate that sitting downstairs until the boat started, then moved to the upper outside deck to take in the views. They were brilliant and because it had rained last night all the waterfalls were flowing, but we were in bright sunshine with blue skies, pretty much the perfect conditions. Most of the waterfalls created small rainbows in the sunshine. The boat went right out to the end of the Sound and just into the Tasman Sea, where it got a bit bouncy to the lids delight.

    On the way back the boat stopped and pulled close to some baby seals (Ed reckons some were sea lions) on rocks. Tash was very pleased to see real live wild seals. Further along we stopped at Stirling Falls and the boat went right up to the falls, covering us in spray - great fun. Last falls near the terminal were the Sutherland Falls, again spectacular and permanent rather than rain fed.

    We docked again and reversed the journey, this time flying part way up the sound after take off before turning and heading in land. The trip was a bit further south , coming across just north of Glenorchy and the Remarkables range around Queenstown and coming in round the back of Treble Cone and across the lake to the airport. We landed back just after 3 - a great few hours.

    From there we went straight to Puzzling World, full of optical illusions. One room was set at an angle so items appeared to be moving uphill (water, snooker balls and even a sliding chair you could sit on. It made you feel a bit sick as it confused your mind. Another room was full of concave faces of famous people which appeared to move and follow you around the room as you passed by. Yet another was angled =, but didn't appear so when viewed from outside so people in one corner looked much taller than those in the opposite corner.

    After a few more odd illusions we left the inside area and entered the outside maze. This was huge and included 4 or 5 sets of stairs. The idea was to visit each of the coloured huts in each corner then leave. The kids went off and claimed to have completed this quicker than Sam and I but we are suspicious they may have cut some corners. We used thr trusted technique of following the left hand wall and reached each coloiur anf the exit about 10 minutes or so after the kids.

    Went straight for food in Speights again - all very hungry after a full day.

    Ed's favourite was Puzzling World, though he liked the boat ride but wasn't so keen on the plane part - not so appreciative of the views. The rest of us loved Mil=ford and the flights, but Puzzling World was lots of fun too.

    Drive to Oamaru to see the Blue Penguin Colony tomorrow.    Read more

  • Mark SmithNew Zealand Sabbatical
    Day 16

    Blue Penguins

    July 25, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    We set off from Wanaka at about 9.30, another clear blue sky day with a bit of frost. We headed across the Lindis pass and stopped at the summit for a quick leg stretch and a photo. The Lindis pass was not as spectacular as some of the others, the scenery was more rolling and less snow covered. Probably harsh if you saw it first before say Milford Sound it would seem more impressive I'm sure. At Omarama we turned right towards Oamaru and stopped for a coffee, pies and toasties. The road from here followed the river to the coast and was pretty flat and largely straight - very easy to drive with the cruise control set to 100km/h. We passed a few damns on the river with hydroelectric power stations. About half an hour before Oamaru we stopped at Maori Rock Carvings. A short walk to some cliffs that looked like sandstone and we could jusy about make out some old Maori drawings on what would have been cave shelter walls. They were very faint but the guide boards showed what was there when they were fully visible, though some stone areas had been taken away to museums. The kids were shocked that there was graffiti on and around the carvings, presumably from a few years back as they were fenced off now.

    We pressed on to Oamaru and went straight to the Blue Penguin Colony and booked our tickets for the evening tour to watch them come ashore. We drove back a little way towards the town and parked up on the harbour side. We got an ice cream from the Penguin's Rest - raspberry for Ed. Kiwi fruit for me (I thought it tasted a bit like rhubarb We walked through the old town - lots of buildings built from the local stone, unusual for New Zealand where most buildings we had seen so far were wood construction. We bought some fudge, a stone painted as a penguin and a small, cuddly panda that looked lonely! After another coffee the kids went to the steampunk playground while I drove to our motel to pick up the key. The owner was a really friendly kiwi lady who used to live in Broomfield Road in Clapham! She gave me lots of tips about the local area.

    We had been told by the Blue Penguin lady who served us that we could drive up the coast a little and after about 3.30pm we might see some yellow eyed penguins. However the kids were having such fun in the playground (playing with a girl from Perth called Emily and some other kids on a big hamster wheel, zipline and slide, which Ed got too scared to come down) that we thought we'd stray there and head to the Blue Penguins just before 5. There were other places up the coast tomorrow where we should be able to see the yellow eyed penguins.

    We got to the penguins at 5 after taking some photos of the "Penguin Crossing" signs. Doors opened about 5.15 and we took our spot in the premium grandstand, closer to the penguins when they got to the top of the beach. Commentary started at about 5.30 and gave us some info on the penguins. The two fur seals we could see on the rocks ate fish not seals we were told. Th penguins assemble about 500m offshore and swim in in groups. The first was announced as coming in just after 6 and after a few minutes we spotted movement on the beach and could se some penguins standing still with their wings out - they do this to cool down apparently. Then they came up the beach and assembled in a big group about half way down and after a minute or two got the courage to head up. They ran surprisingly quickly through two channels in the fence and then too refuge under the raised walkway beyond. A couple of minutes later they popped out again and headed off to their burrows. They waddled with bodies almost horizontal to the ground rather than vertical like you would expect. Their were 21 penguins in this group. A few minutes later a second group followed a similar routine, this time with 5 or so. In between we had been watching a lone penguin on the far side of the rocks who didn't seem to want to come up on his own. A third group also came in and in total 48 penguins came up - the most so fat this winter season. We then saw three penguins huddled ina group a third of the way up the rocks. We watched them for a while but they seemed in no hurry to go anyway so we left for food ourselves, happy with the numbers we'd seen - a month or so ago for 6 weeks there had been none or 1 or 2 ashore due to stormy weather so 48 was brilliant to see.

    Food purchased from the supermarket and back to our room to eat.    Read more

  • Mark SmithNew Zealand Sabbatical
    Day 17

    moeraki - Boulders and Fleur

    July 26, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We headed out from Oamaru away from SH1 down Beach Road, which hugged the Pacific coastline. In parts the road was diverted inland because the old road had been partly washed away as the cliffs were eroded.

    We had intended to stop for a coffee in Katanui, but the cafe opens at 10 and we were there about 9.35, so we pressd on to the Moeraki Boulders. We parked up and walked down to the beach. Our timing wasn't great as the tide was in and some of the bigger waves were only leaving a little bit of beach to walk on and many of the boulders were part submerged. We walked to the boulders and took some pictures, Ed climbing on top of the most recently uncovered one. They were certainly odd and looked like they must have been placed there by someone rather than being a natural phenomenon. Tash started to panic that we were going to get washed away (!) so her and Sam headed back to the steps whilst Ed and I did a bit more climbing before rejoining them and getting a coffee in the cafe. It looked quite a new building and suspect like in other places is a relatively recent addition to the natural tourist attraction. The gift shop had Fleur's Place cookery books and Ed bought one from his own holiday money. The lady behind the counter was called Glad and told us to say hello to Fleur for her and that Fleur would sign the book if we asked her. She explained that the boulders were embedded in the cliffs and were gradually revealed as the sea eroded the sandstone.

    We headed off to Moeraki about 10 minutes down the road. The weather was brilliant, about 18 degrees according to the car gauge. We drove up the hill to the Millennium memorial, put up in 2000. The view from the cliff top along the coastline was again spectacular. The kids had noticed a small playground in town so we went there for half an hour or so until it was close to our 12.30 booking.

    As promised, Fleur herself was in the restaurant and spent a while talking with us and signing Ed's book and poses for a photo. The restaurant is quite famous in New Zealand and Rick Stein is quoted as saying it is his favourite restaurant. It's a simple building right on the water edge and serves whatever fish has been caught by the local fisherman. Fleur suggested we had the tasting plate with one fillet of each of the 5 fish of the ay on it - Tarahiki, Blue Cod, Sea Perch, , sole and one other we can't remember. We could then couple this with a starter and that should do us, Tash went for scallops in bacon and leeks and a creamy sauce, Sam the same without the sauce, I had the chowder (with clams, scallops and mussels) and Ed had the leek and potato soup of the day. All were delicious and came with some great homemade bread, including one with a hint of curry flavour. The main dish was equally good, the fish very frech and you could taste the distinct flavours of each. The fillets and the accompanying vegetables O(including a sprout or two) were quickly eaten. Tash then had chocolate soufflé for desert with Ed having Tunisian Orange cake with ice cream and passion fruit yogurt. He actually only anted the ice cream so I had the rest.

    The bill was reasonable and we left happy and full. A qucikm few minutes in the playground then we headed for Katakiki Lighthouse where seals and penguins are often seen. Walking down to the hide was quite steep and proved fruitless for animal spotting, though nice rocky scenery. We moved along the coast tp Shag Point, again renowned fro seals and penguins - none of the latter but one seal proudly sitting on a rock was exciting to see. Then off to Dunedin - buildings very English looking. Got a warm welcome at the motel with lots of suggestions of where to go and see, we need to decide what to fit in before our wildlife tour tomorrow afternoon.    Read more

  • Mark SmithNew Zealand Sabbatical
    Day 18

    Steep Streets and Wildlife

    July 27, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    We were up and about early to make the most of the morning before our wildlife tour pick up at 1. The museum didn't open until 19, so we headed off to the World's Steepest Street, Baldwin Street about a 6 or 7 minute drive away.

    We got there and it certainly looked steep and we started to walk up - it was steep and about half way up the gradient increased even more. We took some photos to show the angle and then headed down. We met a couple on the way up who got to the top and rolled an apple down from there - it certainly picked up some pace.

    We dropped the car back to the motel an walked a block across to the Otago Museum. It was still a little before 10 but the coffee shop was open so we had a drink and then went in. We wanted to see the Tropical Rain Forest with butterflies in it. This had a small cost but was well worth it as before the butterfly section there was an interactive part with all sorts of games illustrating physics and biology - one was an air hockey table and another involved wearing a headset and competing against an opponent to move a ball towards the other goal by using your brainwaves only. The more you relaxed the more the ball moved towards the opponents goal - Sam beat me!

    We then went into the butterflies. There were lots of colourful ones flapping around with a big waterfall in the room and a few birds too. Tash didn't like the flapping and sheltered near the door. The rest of us wandered round then at 11 one of the keepers came with a big case of new butterflies that had hatched that night. She took them out one by one and explained a bit about them to us (there were only 3 other people watching) and placed some on us 0 Ed took the first one. We had quite a few settle on us and Ed aqnd Sam had one on their heads. This part was awesome according to Ed, though Tash had to go back out and finish her colouring as she just didn't like them fluttering around hr.

    We then went up to the Animal Attic, which had various stuffed animals, eggs, skulls, insects etc in it. Proved very interesting especially to Ed who loves that kind of thing.

    A quick bit of lunch in the museum cafe then back to the motel to await our wildlife tour pick up. This came early and after picking up 3 other people our guide Tony drove us out to the Otago peninsula. It took about 40 minutes to get to the albatross centre. Whilst the wind was in the right direction Tony explained that there were 27 babies in the centre so 54 parents flying about. but each came back with food for about 10 minutes every 5 or 6 days so the chances of seeing on was slim. This proved to be the case and so we went into the visitor centre for a cake and aa souvenir then back into the minibus. Learned that albatrosses fly very close to the sea only a little way above the waves rather than high up as I had thought. Waited a few minutes for a couple of folks on the tour who had paid extra to see the albatross chicks, then off to the private land on the other side of the peninsula. We drove around a tidal inlet that was only about a foot deep and up onto the private farmland. We walked down fairly steep slopes to overlook a rocky shoreline where fur seals congregate. There were lots of baby ones (about 7 or 8 months old) and a few mothers. They were very cute and looked up at us as though asking for food. We also saw a couple of albatrosses from here, swooping just above the waves, though not the largest Royal Albatross but a slightly smaller species.

    We then climbed back up and down the other side of the headland to a sandy beach to see sea lions and penguins. The logs on the beach turned out to be sea lions when we got closer and there were 12 of them in total, out of a New Zealand total population of about 130. Of those only bout 10% are females. This is because females tend to stay where they are born whereas males roam off. The colony in NZ were roaming males, but a few years back one female came up with them from further south and as she was pregnant when she gave birth she stayed to look after the (female) pup and thus some females appeared in the colony and the n umber gradually goes up as more are produced. They were still sleeping from the feed the night before but starting to stir and several of them woke up briefly, yawned stretched and dozed back off. Just before the beach were lots of nesting boxes for Blue Penguins and one of the boxes had a little guy in it!

    We got very close to some of the sea lions and then walked to the other end of the beach where more yellow eyed penguins normally nested. Whilst waiting it transpired Tash was worried about being mauled by a sea lion and shut the little gate to the hide area we were in in case any of them sneaked up on us! We saw one quite quickly that was up the hillside. After a few minutes what looked like a duck swam ashore then stood up and was another penguin. It was very comical waddling across the beach (low tide meant it had a fair way to walk) then did some classic hops up some rocks before stopping a little way up the hillside. Shortly after a second one followed the same routine, though moving a bit quicker. These penguins are quite rare, only about 4,000 in the world. We walked back along the beach looking at the sea lions again, still sleepy and saw a fur seal in the surf. Sea lions can eat fur seals so the suggestion was he was a young guy a bit lost and would head for the rocks. We had learned that seals generally live on rocks and sea lions on beaches.

    Then it was back up the slope to the minibus.. About half way up we saw a sea lion had woken up and was moving across the beach and he woke up another couple and they started to play fight. Tash expressed relief that we weren't down there when they woke up - the rest of us had the opposite view!

    Once back to the minibus we drove back to town arriving just after 8 - didn't seem like we had been away for over 5 hours. We had a big tex mex dinner in the restaurant opposite the motel then retired to bed.    Read more

  • Mark SmithNew Zealand Sabbatical
    Day 19

    The Catlins

    July 28, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    We left the motel (nice place but the coffee hadn't been replaced from yesterday so a coffee shop was a priority( and headed for the station as it is renowned as a spectacular building. We parked up outside (a dollar for an hour, imagine that outside a station in the UK!) and took a few pictures, it was an impressive building, only used today for the tourist train that goes up into the hills outside Dunedin. Next stop a coffee shop across the road. Did a great bacon buttie and poached egss fo Ed - I got his toast when he had eaten the eggs. Tash eventually settled on a cream cheese bagel - when it came there was more cream cheese than bagel which she thought was great.

    We had spotted the Cadbury factory signs opposite the station so walked around the corner to the shop and bought a few souvenirs and some Jaffas, which turned out to be a little like dark chocolate orange smarties, but round rather than oval.

    Back to the car and off to Tunnel Beach. The walk down was longer than I had expected with the signs saying 1 hour round trip. It was steep and Ed got worried he wouldn't be able to climb back up so about half way down after taking a few photos we turned around and headed back to the car/ Back onto the State Highway and we headed for Kaka Point via Balclutha. We crossed the Clutha river at Balclutha - this was the other end of the river we had jet boated on in Wanaka.

    Kaka Point was a small seaside town, with a nice golden sandy beach. We got some food in the pub opposite the beach and then played in the waves for a bit before heading to Nugget Point Lighthouse.

    The Lighthouse car park was about 9km down a gravelled road. From the car park there were two lookouts, a clifftop one and the Lighthouse itself, 150m and 900m away. The first gave great views down to the sea and rocks way below. We then walked off to the lighthouse. It was a proper path and had only gentle slopes (though still enough to make Ed complain on the way back!) The views were spectacular and the nuggets like a larger more chunky version of the Needles on the Isle of Wight. A rainbow formed off to sea and we tried to capture it in our pictures of the nuggets, not sure how well it worked. The weather was once again great with us and as we were on the sheltered side of the rocks in the sun it was very warm (we learned folks in the UK had got there heating on today!).

    We walked back and drove towards Owaka, turing off for Cannibal Bay, a haunt of sea lions sometimes (called Cannibal Bay because human remains were found there years ago).

    The beach was deserted and again had great flat golden sands. No sea lions to Tash's relief, they were probably up in the dunes we learned later. More running from waves ensued, with Sam illegally blocking Ed at one point, causing wet feet and trousers!

    We had driven through a shower on the gravel road to the beach but it cleared up when we got there and once again the sun came out, a lovely location.

    It was now about 4.30 so we went to our b and b, Catlin's retreat. We were met by our very friendly host, with a roaring fire going in the guest lounge. We chatted about where we had been and could go tomorrow then tried to find somewhere to eat - both restaurants in town were closed Monday and Tuesday and the pub was not recommended so we went to the Foursquare for pizzas and oven chips which Robbie kindly cooked for us. We passed Teapoland on the way, a man's garden with all sorts of Teapots in it. Took a couple of photos and put $2 in the pot (Robbie was not impressed as the guy is a sponger on benefits apparently!)

    There was beer and wine in the guest fridge, special soap and chocolates in the bedrooms. A really nice place. Through the evening we chatted with Robbie about his time farming, shearing etc. Turns out he knows Fleur quite well (NZ really is like a small village with everyone seeming to know everyone!)

    We set breakfast fro 8.30 and retired about 10.30 - a late night for us but very enjoyable.    Read more

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