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British Columbia Coast

I am joining my two cruising buddies, Bill, on Mystery Girl, and Mike, on Little Joe, and will cruise the coast of British Columbia. Plan to spend two months on the water. Read more
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    🇨🇦 Area C (Discovery Islands/Mainland In…
    C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    Logging scars really show up on the mountain sides.
    If you look close, you can see the water boils.Wonder what this is laying on the beach?Looks like Kelsey Bay used some old ships as part of their breakwater.Some logging operation pieces. Log slide and a dock.Another photo of water boilsA video going through the water boils and eddies. Notice my speed. Ignore my sonar. It's not workingSpeed, 10.7mph, Fuel flow 8mpg. RPM 1500. (Normal would be 6mph and 4.5mpg.) 1.1 depth not working..Chatham PointMore logging scarsGretchen H and her tow. Currently waiting to go through Seymour.Discovery Passage was quite calm. (But with a bit of current behind me.)McMullen Point. Interesting dock or something...Just the dock, or whatever it is.A nice home as I approach Campbell River.April Point MarinaFortune 151My Inreach track today.

    Campbell River

    Yesterday in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    It was nice getting to the dock at Port Neville yesterday afternoon. As the evening came on, the winds were really howling out of the WNW at almost 30 mph. I was happy to be on the inside, or east side of the dock, and even better, another big trawler came in and docked on the other side from me, blocking more of the wind! It did die down over night, and today I had calm seas. I did have a 1.5 – 2 mph current on my bow and a couple times saw my speed slow to just shy of 3 mph. I finally put C-Traveler on plane and went over next to the shore, which seemed to have less current, allowing me to hold around 5 mph. However, that opposing current was only for about an hour and a half, and then I picked up a flood current. This was pretty much after passing Helmcken Island in Race Passage. As I passed Ripple Point, I was really picking up a nice push, of almost 5 mph for a while. With the tidal current, there were lots of eddies and what’s best described as boiling water, abeam Walkem Islands. I am currently anchored in Plumper Bay, waiting for Seymour Narrows rapids to slow down a bit. Right now the current is running 17 mph through there. I’ll wait until it’s less than 12 mph. Or until I see a local run it so I know exactly what path to take for the calmest water. (The wharfinger at Alert Bay said he ran it at that speed in his sailboat. So I think I can handle that…) With the current flowing that fast, there will be whirlpools and eddies on the other side. There is a Tug and barge (The Gretchen H), that is actually waiting until 5pm, when the current will be at 8 mph. He was running faster, a ways ahead of me, and hoping to make it earlier to catch the narrows after Low Water slack, before it picked p too much. High Water slack is at 6:15p. I left Johnstone Strait when I turned the corner at Chatham Point into Discovery Passage. Discovery Passage ends near Campbell River, into the Strait of Georgia. That’s another body of water, wider than Johnstone, that has a reputation for getting rough in wind. (Break. I’ll finish this later this evening.)

    I ended up following Gretchen H and a fishing boat through when the current was showing to be 8 mph. I think I could have ran it faster. There was a lot of eddies on the other side, but nothing that the boat couldn’t handle. In fact, I did watch one larger yacht go through when the charts said it was running 17 mph. I’m not sure those charts are accurate. While it showed 8 mph when we went through, I only picked up about 5 mph… Right after the narrows/rapids, there is a turn to the left. That’s where most of the turbulence happens, and then the eddies continue for a mile or so. I pulled into Discovery Harbour Marina in Campbell River at 6pm, but the marina offices closed at 5. I did not have reservations, nor did I know which slips were reserved and which might be open. I ended up going across the channel to behind Grouse Island, but decided it would be too deep to anchor and not enough swing room with the amount of scope I’d want to put out. However, I did fine plenty of room a mile away, behind Gowlland Island. Coming into the bay behind the island, passed an interesting marina with what looked like an old military ship… here is the information I found about that ship: The Fortune 151 (formerly known as HMCS Fortune, Greenpeace Two, and MV Edgewater Fortune) is a historic 152-foot Bay-class minesweeper. Originally built for the Royal Canadian Navy in 1953, the vessel was famously chartered by Greenpeace in 1971 to protest US nuclear tests in Alaska.
    Note: To see video coming out of Seymour Rapids, link to my youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FsjhBzBITAo    Read more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    Leaving Alert Bay
    1Telegraph Cove. (The marina is actually in a small cove just east of here.)Tug "Pervis Fury".1Pervis Fury, with her log boom in tow.This should look familiar from an earlier footprint. :-)Same dock, just forward more in position since the fishing boat isn't here.1My Inreach track today. Pretty straight.

    Port Neville

    June 13 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    I departed Alert Bay this morning just a little before 9 am. No rush, as I wanted to pick up the flood current, as it would give me a little push, and it didn’t start until just after 9. Ran in Johnstone Strait today, and it was relatively calm most the way. Later this afternoon the winds picked up some, so got a little chop, but still relatively nice for Johnstone Strait’s reputation. Five miles after leaving Alert Bay, I detoured into Telegraph Cove. I launched from there in 2018 to cruise around the Broughtons. They had a very nice whale museum, however lost it to a fire several years ago. Looks like they have replaced that pier, and are working on a new museum. There was very little activity in the marina, with only a half dozen boats at most. I think they have done more in developing their RV park rather than building up the marina. It is fairly tight in there, and best suited for small boats. I overtook one tug towing a log boom only going 1mph. Then passed another one that was running 3mph. They tow the logs pretty slow. A number of larger trawlers and yachts going north. This afternoon I am docked at Port Neville. We were here on our way north. I’m at the free dock again.Read more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    Thank goodness the winds and seas calmed down soon after going to bed.
    Another cruise ship in port today. One of its small boats taking passengers to tour the town.An old car I saw sitting in a drivewayGovernment dock. This is where the cruise ship small boats were bringing their passengers.The old Alert Bay Shipbuilding company. Peering inside a window.A large logging chain saw is inside the window also.A marine ways next to the building.The city honors its grads with displays on the lights posts.Description of next slide.See previous slide for descriptionA few of the homes in Alert Bay had their own totem poles."Christ Church". An Anglican Church.

    Alert Bay, Photo dump 1

    June 12 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    The winds and seas did finally calm down last night soon after I went to bed, and stayed relatively calm the rest of the night. This morning I checked in with the wharfinger to pay my dock fee and also see about moving over to one of the regular floats. I also decided to stay one more night. He didn’t have any other spots available at the time, but said I could slide over to one of the spots they usually use for larger boats, if no one came in before the office closed at 3p. However, later in the day when the regular wharfinger stopped by, he said I could go on float A, which was the one farthest into the harbor behind the breakwater. I moved over there this afternoon, and it is much calmer! After checking in, I walked over to the First Nations cemetery on the south side of town. Totem poles mark many of the graves. Walking just a little farther, I came across the old Alert Bay Shipbuilding marine ways building. Looking through a window, I saw some very old outboard motors and a very large logging chain saw. A local guy walking by stopped to talk with me. He used to work there as a kid and said a local resident had purchased the building, but wasn’t doing anything with it. Sure wish I could have gone through to see some of the old stuff in there. After that I went back to the boat to make lunch. Then I headed to the other side of town to the U'mista Cultural Centre, a modern museum and cultural education facility about the First Nations people. Across the street from the Centre, is where St. Michaels school once stood. The school operated from 1929 to 1974. Operated by the Anglican Church and funded by the Canadian federal government, it was one of the largest residential schools in the country. The red-brick building was officially demolished in 2015. The facility housed up to 200 Indigenous children at a time, forcing them to sever ties with their families and cultures. Many Survivors experienced severe physical, emotional, and cultural abuse within its walls. After the school closed, the building was temporarily used by the 'Na̱mg̱is First Nation. It was subsequently demolished in February 2015 in a ceremony attended by hundreds of Survivors, marking the closure of a dark chapter for the local community. While inside the museum, I met one of the employees that is related to Calvin Hunt, the master carver I met in Fort Rupert. The employee played a drum and sang in the room with a Potlatch display of various masks. In his family, he is the Grizzly Bear, and took over that roll from his dad, who took over from his grandfather. So during events at the Big House, he will wear the bear mask and guards the door. The grizzly bear is known as the "Chief of all land creatures". The mask symbolizes physical might, authority, vitality, and fearlessness. After exploring the exhibits at that museum, I walked up to the Long House. There are two totem poles in front of it, one is 173’ tall, the tallest totem pole in the world. New word for stop learned today, ‘wa ‘la. Indigenous language of the Wakashan family. Tonight’s blog upload will be another one that requires two footprints to upload all the photos.Read more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    Fuel truck that comes to the marina on Thursdays for boats that have set up fueling in advance.
    Does my math look right? :-)1I wonder what shape the boat inside this shed is?Tarkanen Marine WaysBet these set up a little vibration while running.Homes along the street I walked to town. It's amazing how thick the trees and vegetation is up here.One of three for sale. What do you think Rosanne? lolInteresting mural on this retaining wall.1How about this one Rosanne? Great view. I liked this one the best. ;-)First display you see when you walk into the Sointula Museum.I'm in to photography, and remember a few of these cameras.Another marine ways. Sointula did a lot of wood boat building at one time.A view of Sointula as I was leaving.A view coming into Alert Bay.These two tugs in the Alert Bay Harbour have seen better days.They pack them in tight here, rafted two and sometimes three, wide.Welcome to Alert Bay.Welcome to Alert BayCruise ship in Alert BayHouse in next slide.Description on previous slide.My Inreach track today, including my walks at Sointula and Alert Bay

    Sointula and Alert Bay

    June 11 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Checked in with the wharfinger (what they call harbor masters in Canada) this morning after the office opened up at 9am, to pay my dock fee. The fuel truck showed up around 9:15a, and we pulled the fueling hose down to C-Traveler. The nozzle was a little bigger than those on regular station pumps, but still fit in my fuel inlet. Just had to not squeeze the handle all the way to restrict the flow to a normal flow rate. Final price ended up being Can$1.63/liter, and with all the conversions, US$4.44/gal. Best price in Canada, and probably the US! After fueling, I walked into town. If I were to move to Canada, I think Sointula would be one of the first places I looked. Rosanne, if you are reading this, I captured some photos of homes for sale. Lol. Sointula is a quiet, rustic village on Malcolm Island. Founded in 1901 by Finnish settlers seeking to build a utopian community, its name translates to “place of harmony”. Today it is known for its rich history, local art, and abundant marine wildlife. It is home to the Sointula Co-operative Store Association, which was established in 1909 and is one of the oldest Co-ops in BC. In the late 60’s and 70’s, “back to the land” utopians and American draft dodgers moved to Sointula. Although these “hippies” were initially shunned by many traditional residents (and this was not because of politics but rather the hard working Finns felt the incoming outsiders were lazy), older generations eventually recognized that these newcomers shared the very same hopes for an independent, cooperative community as their original Finnish founders. I enjoyed walking around, meeting and talking with a few of the locals, including a retired nurse. She was burned out from Covid deaths as she worked with older patients with Alzheimer’s and Dementia, and the change from a patient care driven business to one money driven. She moved here from a larger city looking for a little peace and tranquility. Sound familiar? I enjoyed seeing the museum and talking with the docents there, learning more about the people of Sointula and its past history. I didn’t notice any First Nation residents, but the docent said there are a few that live here. I only mention that, as many of the communities I’ve been visiting have a vast makeup of First Nation people. I enjoyed lunch at a café near the ferry terminal. Did a little grocery shopping at the Co-op grocery store. (Lettuce salads and chips.) The fuel was from the co-op also. There was still a lot of residential area I didn’t walk to, but I saw the main part of “downtown”. Also found interesting one of the Marine Ways shops. Ship building was also prevalent here at one time. Early this afternoon then, I departed down the Broughton Strait for another 5 miles to Alert Bay. This has one of the best museums for learning about the First Nation peoples and another interesting town to walk through. The harbour has quite the diversity of boats, with little spare room. I was able to dock alongside the seaplane float. Unfortunately, this float is not fully behind the breakwater, and with westerly winds blowing around 15kts, it is a little rolly. I was tired of thejolt each time the end of my dock line was reached, so ended up putting my snubbers on the dock lines. That has helped with the jolt, but I’m still a rockin’. Hopefully the winds will die down over night as they sometimes do! I did walk briefly around town here, and found a pizza and burger place. Another meal I didn’t have to cook and cleanup. Looks like Bill and Mike are in Jennis Bay tonight, just north of Hooper Island. That’s still in the Broughtons, and just north across the Queen Charlotte Strait from where I am.Read more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    This little sea otter was pretty photogenic. Just layed there while I circled around in the boat.
    Cemetery at Fort RupertCemetery at Fort RupertTotems in front of Kwakiutl Band Administration Building, Fort RupertCanon from original fortFront of daycare buildingTotem pole in front of Fort Rupert residenceFront of Fort Rupert Long HouseIn shed next to Fort Rupert Youth CenterIn shed next to Fort Rupert Youth CenterMural on Fort Rupert residenceTallest totem pole in Fort Rupert. I believe Calvin Hunt's brothers.Several more totem poles in front of Fort Rupert residences.Next to Calvin Hunt's art galleryCalvin Hunt in his art galleryOne of Calvin Hunt's worksCalvin Hunt's art galleryC-Traveler waiting for me to come back from Fort RupertMy kayak and walk around Fort RupertPulteney Point Light House

    Fort Rupert and Port McNeill, photo dump 1

    June 10 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Last evening I watched two guys in a small open boat, with one guy using one paddle, to paddle the boat across the harbour. They didn’t look to be in peril, and were paddling away from shore, instead of towards it. But it was late, with rain showers, and would soon be dark. I finally decided to call the Coast Guard in Port Hardy to let them know. I eventually lost sight of the guys, and when I reported that to the Coast Guard, they said their headquarters had elected not to do anything at the time, as this apparently happens in this area often enough not to warrant going out. Made for a later night than I planned on, watching them, wondering if they ever made wherever it was they were going…
    This morning I decided to stop at Fort Rupert. It would involve anchoring in shallow water, over a mudflat at low tide, and peddling my kayak in to shore, as there was no dock. But the area had history along with a cemetery and some totem poles and wood carving I wanted to see. It was well worth the stop and getting there. This area was once the site of a Hudson’s Bay Company fort, built in 1849, first commanded by William Henry McNeill. The fort burned down in 1889. One of the remaining eight-pound cannons is displayed in front of the Longhouse. I met Master Carver Calvin Hunt at his Art Gallery, where he was working on several totem poles. He has works in the Chicago Museum and was working on a totem for somebody in Wisconsin. I believe he said he also has some works in the Music Museum in Phoenix. He holds dual citizenship, US and Canada, and has some great works. I saw one totem pole at a private house that was at least 50’ tall. I found out that was Calvin’s brother, and Calvin did some work on that totem as well. The cemetery also had many totems. A lot of native art in this town.
    I peddled back out to C-Traveler, and then headed the 18 miles to Port McNeill following the shoreline of Vancouver Island. I walked around Port McNeill, seeing the world’s largest burl. Their museum was closed for the season. Also stopped at a small office and gift shop that educates people on Humpback Whales and other sea life. And still no ice cream! There was one place close to the marina, but did not open until 4p. The other place I was told about was about 3 miles away. I watched the Alert Bay ferry come in and also talked to the Alert Bay bus driver. He was driving a 90 passenger ferry boat. The kids from Alert Bay, on an island 6 miles away, go to school in Port McNeill. I left Port McNeill to come 5 miles across the channel to Malcolm Island Lions Harbour Authority Marina in Sointula. I will fuel up here tomorrow by a coop truck that brings the fuel to the dock. At Can$1.73/liter, it’s the cheapest deal around. (At Port McNeill it is Can$2.22/liter.)
    I decided this evening, after two months, it was time for a haircut. Now I remember why I keep those clippers on the boat. It’s an old pair that has dull blades… so I have a few hairs still sticking up. Lol.
    Looks like Bill and Mike are directly across Queen Charlotte Strait from me, in Napier Bay, and did some hiking there.
    Too many pictures for one footprint, so this upload will require two footprints.    Read more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    A calm Queen Charlotte Strait.
    View of Port Hardy.One of several descriptive signs.Another descriptive sign.C-Traveler at the Seagate T-FloatsCanadian Coast Guard small cutter Pachena Bay.Port Hardy welcome center.Port Hardy park totem pole.Another view of the Seagate T-Floats. C-Traveler dwarfed by the ships.Port Hardy park memorial.One of several displays in the Port Hardy museum.Another display in the museumKing crab. Nope, haven't caught any of these...Mural on the side of a building.Walk around downtown Port Hardy.1Canadian Coast Guard cutter.Naiad Explorer, whale watching boat.Looks like an old boat on shore.My Inreach track today.

    Port Hardy and Patrician Cove

    June 9 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    Pulled the crab trap up this morning to find only two female Dungeness Crabs, that I had to release. Queen Charlotte Strait was flat calm most the way across today. It was pretty much straight across from Blunden Harbour to Port Hardy. Approaching Hardy Bay, the winds had picked up to around 20 – 25 kts out of the west, and the Strait was getting pretty choppy. I docked just outside of the Port Hardy inner harbor at the Seagate T-Floats. Enjoyed walking through a waterside park, and then stopped at the visitor/welcome center. There were several descriptive signs along the park walk, and a memorial in the center of the park for Canadian and First Nation Soldiers. Tired of my own cooking, I went out to Market Street Café. After lunch I visited the small Port Hardy Museum on the lower floor of the library. After that I went out looking for an Ice Cream shop. What’s wrong with these people up here? No Ice Cream shops, and the one market that did have a small choice of scoop ice cream, was closed for remodeling. I ended up getting a piece of cake for dessert at the Café Guido. I departed the dock to a rather rough choppy Hardy Bay, probably due to the westerly winds still blowing. Passed a large Canadian Coast Guard Cutter coming in, and then rounded Dillon Point, where the water calmed down. I was a little surprised having a whale watching boat overtake me on my starboard side, only 50’ away. Didn’t look like he had any passengers, so maybe just checking my C-Dory out? At least he was going slow so didn’t leave me much of a wake. A little farther ahead, he took off on plane. I then passed through Daedalus Passage and went to the end of Beaver Harbour to view Fort Rupert. I then returned a short distance to anchor at Patrician Cove. There has been a light rain off and on today, and this evening the light rain is mixed in with downpours. I’m ready for some warmer temps and sunshine, and see it in the forecast in a few days. Bill and Mike are in Blunden Harbour this evening, and plan to continue down that side of the Strait until probably Campbell River. If our timing works out, I’ll meet them there.Read more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    Galley
    Looking forward in the cabin.Looking aft in the cabin.Looking into the V-Berth. When Rosanne is not with me, her side of the bed is more storage. LOLStarlink is attached by a holder underneath the V-Berth hatch.Airhead composting toilet in the head.Dinette table. Refrigerator under forward seat. Seat back is convertible to face table or window.Plenty of storage under sink. Webasto heater, water heater, and diesel fuel tank.Cabin helm.Storage and battery charger under aft passenger seat.Another view of storage area under aft seat.Far aft closet compartment. Ditch bag and solar controller. Tool and fishing boxes, etc.Microwave. Emergency paddle outside back window.CockpitRoof. Solar panels and solar shower bags.Better view of solar shower bag on starboard side and kayak deflated.

    Living on C-Traveler for three months

    June 8 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Thought I’d take time to share the living arrangements on C-Traveler. C-Traveler is a 2009, 25’ C-Dory Cruiser. She is powered by a Yamaha 150hp 4-stroke Outboard, and as a backup, a Yamaha 9.9HP 4-stroke Kicker. Top speed is right around 30mph, but top cruise is better around 21 mph. Hull speed, or slow cruise is right around 6 mph. Fuel flow at the lower speed is usually around 4.5 mpg, and on plane around 2 mpg. She has a 100 gallon fuel tank, and 20 gallon potable water tank. Loaded, on the trailer, it all weighs around 8,100 lbs, and I pull it fine with a newer (2019) Ford F150 with the V8 5.0L. Most of my electronics are Garmin, and includes radar, Si-Tex AIS transceiver, two Standard Horizon VHF marine radios and a Garmin Autopilot. Electricity comes from three AGM batteries. Two group 31 for house batteries and one group 24 for starting. I can also plug into shore power and have an onboard battery charger. I also installed a 1200 watt inverter, and there are two red plugs you may see in the cabin photos that come from that. There is an Airhead composting toilet, and while there is a shower in the head, I conserve the boat’s water by using solar shower bags stored on the roof. (Bringing in a bag hose through the head window.) The galley has hot and cold water, the hot being provided by a small 2.5 gallon Bosch electric water heater. (Requires shore power or the generator.) I carry a small Honda generator to provide 110 vts AC power, when shore power is not available. There is also a small refrigerator that can be powered by either 110 vts. or 12 vts. There is also a small microwave that runs off 110vts. When needed, I also carry a small portable Engle Freezer that runs on 110 vts, or 12 vts. Several small 12vt fans help cool the boat or defog the windshield. There is also a small Webasto diesel heater that runs off a small diesel fuel tank and 12vts for its fan and circuitry. I removed the original galley stove, and installed a butcher block with storage underneath it, and use a small portable butane stove. There is ample storage in cabin compartments and compartments under the v-berth. C-Traveler has hydraulic steering to both its cabin and cockpit helms. The main outboard is controlled by a throttle at the cabin helm, whereas the kicker is controlled by its throttle at the cockpit helm. Rather than the standard kill switch and lanyard, I installed Fell’s MOB system. It includes a FOB carried by the operator (me…) and will shut the main and kicker outboards down if more than 60feet away, or under water. Additional FOB’s can be carried by passengers to sound an alert tone if they fall overboard. There are two, 100-watt, solar panels on the roof that help to keep the batteries charged, on sunny days. And lastly, there is a AM/FM stereo radio that I rarely use… Hope this entertains your questions of living on C-Traveler, and the photos I’ll upload should show a little more. (And remember, I'm currently living on the boat, so don't expect a "picked up house". LOL!)Read more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    The white shell area is the midden, on Blunden Harbour beach.
    Some beach relic.More of the midden.Another view of the midden. It stretches past the pier.Kayak ride today. The island I circled is a native burial site.

    Blunden Harbour, second day

    June 8 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Stayed another day here in Blunden Harbour. Rained all morning, and then just cloudy this afternoon. But windy. Winds out of the east around 20-25 kts. Nice to be here in this harbour rather out on Queen Charlotte Strait. Was hoping for some crab today. Yesterday I released two females in the afternoon. Then last evening I released one more. Later, I did have a male in the trap when I checked it, but I was on my kayak, so just put the trap back down and left him in there. This morning I pulled it up, and had one male and one female. Released the female and removed the male and put the trap back down in a different location. Checked it this afternoon, and nothing. So put it back where it was earlier. Keeping my fingers crossed for some legal male crab tomorrow. All have been Dungeness crabs. (They have to be 6.6” and male, to be legal. (Red Rock crab have to be 4.6”) Explored some more on my kayak, circling Byrnes Islet which is an old native burial site. Also walked along the beach looking at the midden. Read some as well. Winds have died down to just a very light breeze this evening.Read more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    In Allison Harbour, this cove had a log boom tied across the cove entrance.
    In Allison Harbour, this cove had a log boom tied across the cove entrance.Islands in the Southgate Group.Islands in the Southgate Group.1What my chartplotter shows while navigating through all the islets and rock shoals.The Tug North Arm WaveNorth Arm Wave's tow, several hundred yards back.If you look close, you can see the tug and its tow.My Inreach track today. (Starts in the cove beside Branham Island))Anchored in Blunden HarbourBlunden Harbour beachPrivate dock in Blunden Harbour.Not sure what kind of bird or duck this is.My kayak ride today

    Blunden Harbour

    June 7 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Bill and Mike left our anchorage this morning headed for Nakwato Rapids, a very short distance away. From there they would continue to Belize Inlet and Alison Sound. They plan to spend several days in that area exploring. Checking their Inreach, it looks like they are anchored in Alison Sound this evening. And Bill just sent me an Inreach message confirming that. I, on the other hand, departed in a different direction, a short distance in the Slingsby Channel, then down the Schooner Channel, out through the Southgate Group and into Queen Charlotte Strait. Along Schooner Channel, I detoured into Allison Harbour to check it out. There were two coves that had log booms stretched across them, so logging was/is prevalent in Allison. Then continued out into the Strait and turned into Blunden Harbour where I am anchored for the night. Out in the Strait I passed a tug and tow that were separated by a couple hundred yards. Saw at least half a dozen sea otters. They are kind of cute laying on their backs just watching the world go by. Unfortunately, they are not very photogenic, and manage to turn over and dive before I’m close enough to take their picture. Have been seeing Humpback whales every now and then also. In fact, Mike had one surface next to him while he and Bill were Kaboating around earlier. And Bald Eagles are everywhere. While Bill and Mike wanted to explore the scenery of Belize Inlet, I am looking to cross Queen Charlotte Strait in the next day or two, and explore some of the towns. We will all meet up again in a few days. So far, Blunden Harbour has been a productive crab location. I’ve already released two female Dungeness Crabs and had one legal male Dungee when I checked my trap again less than an hour later. I’ll pull it this evening and see what I end up with. Then I may spend an extra night here, before crossing over to Port Hardy. Peddled my kayak three miles around part of the large cove I’m in. Blunden Harbour is a favorite for the boats cruising to Alaska, or others, to get off Queen Charlotte Strait when the weather is bad, before or after crossing Cape Caution. It is a large open bay with plenty of room and great for anchoring at 30’ deep with mud bottom. It’s isolated from ocean and strait swells.Read more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    Today's ride in Queen Charlotte.
    Location of the video preceeding this slide.Still shot out on Queen Charlotte Strait.Getting a little rougher on Queen Charlotte.Location of preceeding video.Cape CautionVideo going around Cape CautionLocation of preceeding video. If you notice my depth, yeah, I was in pretty close to shore. :-)Bremner IsletMy Inreach track today.

    Anchor Island (Cove East)

    June 6 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    I woke up early this morning and started looking at a couple of weather forecasts along with the West Sea Otter Buoy. That buoy gives us real time data several miles out from Cape Caution. Earlier forecasts had made it look like Sunday would be the best day in the next several days, to cross around Cape Caution. However, the forecasts I was looking at contradicted each other a bit, and always seemed to change the closer you got to the date being looked at. This morning it looked like today would actually be the best day to get around the Cape. I called Bill on the radio after he got up, and talked to him about the weather and my suggestion that we just poke our bows out in the sound and if it looked good, to keep going and just keep an hourly eye on the Sea Otter Buoy updates. It was actually pretty decent out in Fitz Hugh Sound, with no wind, just getting some smaller swells the closer we got to Queen Charlotte Strait and the ocean. Once in Queen Charlotte Strait, the swells grew to between 4 and 5 feet. There was also some intermixed chop after we got in Queen Charlotte Strait, and the winds eventually blew out of the west at around 15kts. It wasn’t real comfortable, but it wasn’t bad. I mean my windshield stayed dry. LOL. Once we got around the Cape, and headed more easterly, we had the swells and chop behind us, so it was more comfortable.. And no rain today. Some clouds, but more sun. Still chilly in the mid 50’s. Not far after rounding Cape Caution, we turned into Outer Narrows. By that time I was a couple miles ahead of Bill and Mike. I got quite a ride as I entered Outer Narrows. Waves that eventually were building to 6 feet. Not square waves, just large waves. I also lost about 3 or 4 kts of speed. I think it was the current flowing out of that channel building up against the current in Queen Charlotte. Both Bill and Mike said the waves were not that big when they entered. The tide was beginning to turn when I arrived. As I got a little farther into Outer Narrows, the waves died down, along with the current. The Narrows become The Slingsby Channel. A little farther up that channel, we turned into a small bay behind the Anchor Islands, where we are anchored for the night.Read more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    Not sure if these were seals or sea otters. To far away to see if they had ears.
    Small cove in Joes BayWell, we know we are in the right place now. :-)My Inreach track today. Easy navigation.Anchored in Joes BaySmall rapids from Elizabeth Lagoon channel.A lot of foam. I think caused by incoming tide against the opposing rapids.Looking back at the rapids from farther away.Mystery Girl and C-Traveler in Joes BayLittle Joe is here too. But anchored farther away.You can see all three boats if you look close.Panoramic view in the north basin of Joes Bay.Just a scenic view with C-Traveler.1My kayak ride today.

    Joes Bay

    June 5 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Another short day for distance traveled. Bill and Mike departed Pruth Bay at 6am, while I departed at 6:30. We only had around 17 miles or so to go. I’ve decided that the crab like my boneless skinless chicken that I have for my meals, better than they like the stinky old fish head. I put chicken back in the bait bag, and had one barely legal Dungeness crab last evening when I pulled the trap up, and two more larger Dungeness crabs this morning. Cleaned and steamed this afternoon and ready to share. Easy route today. After leaving Pruth Bay, we crossed Fitz Hugh Sound, which was a little rough with 1-1.5’ chop and winds on the bow out of the east at 15kts. After crossing the Sound, we turned into Fairmile Passage and Souvenir Passage, then passed through Mcclusky Bay to enter Joes Bay, where we are anchored for the afternoon. After crossing Fitz, Bill and Mike explored Illihie Inlet and Mcclusky Bay first, before coming into Joes. They got their Kaboats down and went off to explore more of the area. I took care of the crab, then kayaked around the small bay here. There is a channel to Elizabeth Lagoon, that except for the upper tide levels, has a small waterfall into the bay here. Rain was off and on today, with a few periods of the sun shining through the clouds. We are watching the weather waiting for a window to cross back south around Cape Caution. We’re hoping Sunday the winds calm down some again.Read more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    In Lewall Inlet. Either a pictograph, or grafitti...?
    Chartplotter view of the Planet Group of Islands leaving Edward Channel.Planet Group Islands.Going across Hakai Passage.My Inreach track today.Map of the island and beaches. I did the West Beach trail.Watershed map that shows a good picture of Pruth Bay. We came in from the north today.Looking out into Pruth Bay from Hakai Institute grounds.Hakai Institute welcome center. Nothing going on today. They do not offer public tours.Sign at each end of the West Beach trail!West Beach trail had some boardwalk. Pretty overgrown next to the trail.And some of the trail was just a nice path.Good looking outhouse. lolWest BeachWest BeachWest BeachWest Beach panoramic photoWest Beach. This tree helped me take my selfie. (It held the camera. lol)Yours truely.Me again.Somebody must have stacked this drift wood.Tree art, (in a live tree) next to Hakai residential area.Hakai Institute dockMy trail walk today.

    Pruth Bay

    June 4 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 52 °F

    Today was a very short travel day with only 10 miles to go. Actually, Bill and Mike added a few more miles to that as they went around the north end of Underhill Island, which was right next to Stirling Island that Lewall Inlet is in. They were underway by 7am, and I left closer to 7:30am. Had one barely legal Red Rock crab in my crab trap this morning. Maybe I’ll catch some more today. No rain when I first woke up, but by the time I left the anchorage the rain was starting. It’s very scenic going through the Planet group of islands on the way out of Edward Channel into Hakai Passage. Passage was choppy with winds blowing around 15-20 kts out of the SE. Turning into the passage going to Pruth Bay calmed things down. Pruth Bay is home to the Hakai Institute. There are several trails open to the public, and I kayaked over to the Hakai dock to do the West Beach trail. Lovely white sand beach on the Pacific Ocean on the other side of Hecate Island that Pruth Bay is located on. Bill and Mike are over there now, but hiking several of the trails. (They went over after lunch, while the rain had stopped for a bit.) It’s been raining off and on all day. In between the sun tries to poke through the clouds, but the clouds hang around. Only 52 degrees F today. And a stiff breeze continues out of the ESE, but we are mostly protected where we are anchored. The last couple of days mark the mid point of our trip, as we are now making our way back down the BC coast. Bella Coola was the farthest inland we went, while Eucott Bay marked the farthest north we got. Yesterday was the farthest west we got.Read more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    Before this morning's sunrise in Lockhart Bay
    Following Little Joe into Rait NarrowsSome of the islands we cruised through.More of the islands we cruised through.Lots of islands todayVarious rock formations with the different islands.This is some of my routing through the islands. The black line behind and the magenta line ahead.One of the tightest areas I've gone through. Spider Channel.This is what it looked like on the chartplotter. Very little room for error!Port side coming out of the turn.Starboard side coming out of the turn.Waves/swells hitting rocks where I entered Nalau Passage.Route today starts just left of the top of Campbell IslandLooking towards Edward Channel from inside Lawall InletPanoramic of Lawall InletC-Traveler anchored in Lawall InletFrom a distance, this kind of looks like an old boat wreck...When I got closer, it was just a mess of deadwood.Several trees had large ropes tied on. Wonder if logging was here at one time?My 4 miles of kayak peddling today.

    Lewall Inlet

    June 3 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    Today felt like we were cruising the enchanted islands. Many islands, narrow passageways, all a different kind of scenery than we’ve been seeing. Started out by following Little Joe through Rait Narrows. Soon afterwards, as usual, I moved ahead since I tend to run a little faster. A quick blurb on that. Bill and Mike are running at 5 kts. Bill and I tend to run about the same RPM’s, and for this trip, and normal for my boat, 1500-1600 works most efficiently for me in slow cruise. Bill has been running 1500, however, at 1500 I get about a mile or mile and a half faster. Mike tends to set whatever his engine runs for 5 kts. I had different anchorage expectations than Mike and Bill as well. We’re all responsible for our own comfort levels, and I tend to like calm anchorages. Bill and Mike were looking at some possible anchorages that would be affected by ocean swell coming into them. Bill and Mike were also doing a little different route as they were weaving through some of the islands, whereas I tend to take a more direct route. Just different interests, but we all try to end up at the same place at the end of the day. Because I chose a different anchorage, and was running ahead, I expected Bill and Mike would end up in a different anchorage tonight, and we’d meet up again tomorrow. They ended up here, several hours after I anchored. My route today involved a number of channels, including running some out in the ocean, or sounds just off the ocean. The first open ocean run was somewhat protected by the Goose Group of islands, and I only experienced some very gentle 3’-5’ swells. Winds appeared to be less than 5 kts. However, the second open spot, was open to the ocean, and along with the same swells, the winds had picked up to around 15kts out of the SW and I was seeing some rough chop with the swells. I ended up putting C-Traveler up on plane to get thru that spot a little faster. The waterways I cruised via were Joassa Channel with Rait Narrows, Tide Rip Passasge, Spider Channel through the Stopper Group (and that offered some of the most challenging navigation I’ve done, through some very narrow and winding passages), Brydon Channel (which had some more narrow channels), Kittyhawk Group, Kildidt Sound, Nalau Passage, Edward Channel, and finally a turn into Lewall Inlet, where we are anchored. The inlet is basically a L shape that dead ends at the north end. Once I was anchored, I set my kayak up and peddled around the inlet. Forecast for rain, but it held off until around 5:30p. It has stopped for now, but more in the forecast. While we like the sunshine, it’s nice to get the fresh water rinse to clean off all the salt!Read more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    We left the other boats in Eucott this morning at 6:30am.
    Interesting to see where logging has been done and trees replanted. (They are shorter here).Heck of a private yacht...Just googled it: Old canadian fishing tug "Swell"Shearwater Fuel ConversionsDryad Point LighthouseDryad Point LighthouseThis Raven hitched a ride on C-Traveler for a bit.This Raven hitched a ride on C-Traveler for a bit.This Raven hitched a ride on C-Traveler for a bit.Yesterday and today's Inreach trackVideo of Raven hitching a ride on C-Traveler. Yeah, it was windy out!

    Lockhart Bay

    June 2 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    There were already three other boats (two sailboats and a yacht) in Eucott Bay when Bill arrived there yesterday late afternoon. Mike and I got there at 8pm, and skipped the hot springs due to the late time and a crew from the sailboat were heading over there. The three of us pulled anchor and left Eucott Bay at 6:30a. We had a nice ebb current of between a knot or two, giving us a nice push. As usual, I ran a little faster and by the time I reached Shearwater, was a good 5 miles (1 hour) ahead of them. I decided to stop at Shearwater to top off my fuel tank, only needing 12 gallons. Then walked up to the store for some ice cream while Mike and Bill caught up. Mike’s Little Joe has the smallest fuel capacity at 40 gallons, so he also fueled up. Bill bypassed Shearwater and I headed out to catch up with him. Our route took us through Gunboat Passage again, a narrow and scenic waterway. Overall, a pretty comfortable ride, but there were areas that would have a little more chop. A lot depends on the wind and current. I saw a pretty neat old tugboat come through Shearwater before I left. I passed the scenic Dryad Point lighthouse. And then had a Raven swoop over C-Traveler and land on my bow spot light, where he/she hitched a ride for a good minute or so. Bill and I pulled into Dundivan Inlet off the Seaforth Channel, and anchored in Lockhart Bay. Mike showed up a little over an hour later and joined us. Gas price at Shearwater went down some, from 2.63/l a few days ago, to 2.50/l today. More pricey than Bella Coola, and at US $$$ came out to $7.21/gallon. Late note. Just found this about that tug: The Swell is a historic 1912 wooden tugboat that has transformed from a hard-working steam vessel on the British Columbia coast into a luxury, eco-tourism expedition ship. Today, it takes small groups of passengers on remote wilderness and wildlife tours through areas like the Great Bear Rainforest and Haida GwaiiRead more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    Bella Coola Museum
    Notice the fitting of the logs.Another museum photo. Mike looking in the window.Not sure if that is grafitti on the rock, or suppose to be there.Pretty waterfallLand for sale. Found some dilapidated buildings when we walked down the driveway.We couldn't make out what brand/model this old car is.Another waterfall.Bella Coola Harbour has a tidal grid. Tide is up above the grid.Our ride into town and walk back.Where I spent part of my afternoon.Nice map of the area.My fuel math.

    Bella Coola Day Two

    June 1 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    The fueler showed up this morning on time at 9am, but needed 20 minutes or so to close out his books for May. Bill and Mike arrived around 8am and docked at the breakwater dock. I had moved over to the fuel dock just before they got here. I took on about 60 gallons of gas to top off my tank. (It holds 100g). There was only room for one at a time at the fuel dock, and Mike came over next. Bill came over last, and then he headed out. I went back to the dock I was at overnight, and Mike went back to the breakwater dock. Then the two of us headed into town. It’s about a mile and a half walk. We had just left the marina area, when another local boater and his wife offered us a ride. Our new friends dropped us off at the Credit Union down town, as I wanted to exchange some US cash. I wanted to do my laundry at the marina, and the machines only took coins…Plus I owed Mike Can$10 and figured I could use Canadian currency later… (Long story. I was fixated on using my credit union debit card, but the ATM kept denying the transaction. Ended up that the system would not use a Visa debit card. And it didn’t help that I had never used this card, and it’s been a long time since I even used an ATM. I was giving up, until I realized I was at a Credit Union and they should be able to change my US currency! LOL! And they did!) Mike had forgot his jacket in the pickup of the folks that gave us a ride. Fortunately, our fueler, whose office was there in town, knew the couple and had their number. They would be back at the docks between 2-3p and Mike could get his jacket then. We walked back to the marina, and then I started my laundry. On the walk back, we stopped to look at the Museum, which was closed. Saw a couple waterfalls, and a large rock that had some plaques about Sir MacKenzie. Also saw a land for sale sign, and when we went up that driveway, found some caved in buildings. Mike got his jacket and was off the dock around 3, and I finished my laundry and was off the dock around 3:30p. We are both currently underway, back to Eucott Bay. Bill ran pretty slow, and just got there. My ETA is around 8pm, unless I start getting an ebb current with a little push. I’m currently underway as I work on my blog, and will nuke (microwave) my supper soon.
    Also, if I did my math right, we ended up paying $5.45/gallon in US dollars. I had to do a few more computations, as I also purchased 4.5 gallons of diesel that I use in my Webasto heater, along with about a half a gallon of gas for my little generator.    Read more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    This photo got stuck in my iPhone, so it didn't make the upload last night.
    Mama bear was about 50 yards from her cubs.The cubs.Another photo of the cubs.While there was mostly written graffiti, there was this one drawing.Perhaps an old wharf at Green BayThe Northern Sea Wolf overtaking me.An old tug at the Tallheo CanneryTallheo CanneryC-Traveler at the F dock in Bella Coola. Northern Sea Wolf at the ferry dock.Just some Bella Coola information for anyone else that might come here.Current Bella Coola fuel prices. Cheapest along our cruise so far.Just some more Bella Coola information.My Inreach track today.

    Bella Coola

    May 31 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 37 °F

    Woke up this morning and watched some bears outside my window. They were over on the other side of the bay. Eucott reviews talk about the bears, so it’s definitely a place to see them. This morning it looked to be a mama and two older cubs. Mike and Bill took off early as they were going to go check out a couple other hot springs on the way to Bella Coola, and anchor out somewhere along the way for the night. I had planned to stay one more night in Eucott Bay, but ended up heading to Bella Coola today. I’ll spend two nights in the marina. Bill and Mike ended up anchoring about 7nm away at Green Bay, and will come here tomorrow. We’ll fuel up here tomorrow and plan to leave early Tuesday morning. I turned out of Eucott Bay this morning, back on Dean Channel, then Lobouchare Channel to Burke Channel. Right after turning onto Burke Channel, around Mesachie Nose, I noticed a lot of graffiti on a large rock face on the north side. I had a good tail current of at least 1 mph coming down Lobouchare and some current on Burke. Burke splits at Tallheo Point into the North Bentinck Arm, which ends at Bella Coola, and South Bentinck Arm, which is where Bill and Mike explored a little more. It got a little choppy as I got closer to Bella Coola. But the area is known to almost always be windy. Green Bay, where the Nooseseck River comes in, had what appeared to have been a wharf at one time. Just before Bella Coola, and on the other side of the Bentinck Arm, is an old Cannery, the Tallheo Cannery. The BC Ferry, Northern Sea Wolf, passed me today on her way into Bella Coola. I found space here in the marina, which has a lot of boats, but most dock space is first come first serve. And we are still fairly early in the season. And there is still plenty of space for Bill and Mike when they get here. One last note. Regarding my Starlink. I was told by some on FB groups that 100GB would not be enough. Well, at midnight tonight, I'll be giving up close to 20 of my 100 GB. Anyone considering getting Starlink, if you are just using it for email and daily blogging, 100 GB is enough. I've been dong a lot more scrolling on social media in the last couple of days, just to get the data I paid for. lol! When I don't have access to cell phone data, I only use about 1 GB a day, 2 GB max. The 100 GB roam plan is plenty in my use of it.Read more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    Old logging dock of some sort. Bridge in background to right.
    Overturned boat hullMarine railwayCabin in the treesFairly large cabin. Doesn't look lived in anymore.Old logging road coming down to the water near Frenchman Creek.Pictographs near Hokonson Point.Mackenzie RockApproaching Eucott BayBald Eagle.Panoramic of Eucott BayC-Traveler anchored in Eucott Bay.View of Eucott Bay from hot springs.Me, Mike and Bill in Eucott hot springs.Some bears sizing us up from a couple hundred yards away.My Inreach track today.

    Eucott Bay and Hot Springs

    May 30 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    This morning we all left Ocean Falls at 7am. Cloudy chilly day. The sun did come out between the clouds this afternoon and warmed into the mid 50’s. Coming past Martin Valley on Cousins Inlet, we passed some kind of old dock not far past Martin Valley. Then a little farther on we passed an old upside down boat hull. Since Mike and Bill had seen that earlier on their way in, I had asked Les (back at the OF Marine Ways building) about that. He said that was one of two built there along the shore, but that one was never completed, and just left there. Next to the hull I also noticed a marine railway probably for launching boats. However, I suspect stormy waters had pushed that rail over to on top the rocks. Saw a few cabins along Cousins Inlet as well. Just about every channel we’ve been on, we see cabins here and there along the shore. Some in better shape than others, but none that look used any more. These are not the nicer shore homes or cabins that do appear to be lived in, but rather old ones that have probably existed for some time. We turned into Dean Channel, where the water got a little choppy after Thorenson Point. But it did smooth out later, about 3 or 4 miles before we turned into Eucott Bay. Eucott Bay has some very hot springs in an enclosure of roughly poured concrete among rocks. The temperature is controlled by a stick placed inside a pipe inlet. I’m estimating the pool was around 100 degrees. And did NOT smell like sulfur. Since I run a tad faster than Bill and Mike, I got to Encott Bay about 30 minutes before they did. As I entered the bay, just before anchoring, I watched a Bald Eagle circle close by me and then dove down to catch a fish. I didn’t waste much time getting anchored and getting my kayak down, then headed over to the shore to check out the hot springs! There was one other person and his dog there. As we soaked in the ht springs, we chatted and I learned a little more history about the people here. Mike and Bill got here, and since I had earlier told them it looked like there was a couple and their dog over there, they just explored some with their Kaboats. The other guy left after an hour or so, and I went back to my boat until Bill and Mike got over to the hot springs. I went back to join them. The heat of the water is controlled by a stick stuck into an inlet pipe that supplies the water. As we were getting out, I noticed three bears a couple hundred yards away, on the grassy shore. Later this evening, Bill saw three bears over on the other side of the bay from us. Reviews of this bay speak of bears frequently on the shores at low tide.Read more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    Spring water cascading down the rock face next to the road between Ocean Falls and Martin Valley
    Fairy village. Along the road between Ocean Falls and Martin Valley.Fairy VillageSolid picknic table between Ocean Falls and Martin Valley.Looking out at Cousins Inlet from Martin Valley. Notice the launch ramp?Homes in Martin Valley.Rock just off the end of the road in Martin Valley.Pumper fire truck in Martin Valley.Burned house right across the street from that Pumper truck. I wonder what the story is?Ocean Falls Cemetery in Martin Valley.Just to show the steep rock face along the road between Ocean Falls and Martin Valley.Just a pretty flowerAnother one.Marine Railway inside Marine Ways building.Cables to haul in and haul out boats on the marine ways. At low tide. High tide water just below.Cable drums.Museum stuff.More museum stuff.Still more museum stuff.There was a lot of museum stuff!Ok, final picture of museum stuff.I've never seen a microwave reflector before. This is one.

    Second Day Ocean Falls, part 1

    May 29 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Today I learned a lot more history around Ocean Falls and Martin Valley while walking around and talking with a couple of the locals. I’m also over my allowance of 25 photos per blog footprint, so I’ll be uploading two footprints this evening. I walked over 6 miles today, starting this morning (after breakfast) with walking to Martin Valley. This included some time walking through the Ocean Falls Cemetery, which is located in Martin Valley. Bill and Mike arrived here in Ocean Falls around 11am. At the time, I was getting a tour of the Ocean Falls Marine Ways building and museum. After that I returned to my boat to eat lunch. Then walked back up towards the Ocean Falls Dam to meet up with Bill and Mike, who had hiked a little farther past the dam to Link Lake. Coming back through town, Mike and I went farther inside the Cypress Apartments and Hotel. Both these buildings are deteriorating and falling apart. Les, who owns and lives in the Marine Ways building with his wife, told me that the other apartments that look like they were knocked down, the Garden Apartments, are deteriorating like that from the weather and environment after folks have scavenged through them. He mentioned that from folks coming in and shooting video to publish, has caused vagrants to come in the past, and scavenge the buildings. He said that when he moved here in the late 90’s, the apartments were still nice enough to rent out. I will be jumping around some with this blog, as I remember the day. Eva is the “harbour master” for the Ocean Falls Municipal dock. She was not feeling well last night, so did not come to collect the dock fee. She was not here yet by around 9 this morning, so I headed out for my walk to Martin Valley. She came while I was on my walk, but then stopped when driving by me on her way back to Martin Valley. We talked a bit and she said she’d be back this evening between 4p and 5p to collect the dock fee. I asked her about anything to see in Martin Valley and she suggested the cemetery. I actually find cemetery’s interesting as they too can give a little look into the area’s past. While at the cemetery I found a lot of Japanese baby graves. Some that died the day of birth, and some that barely made it to two years old. I met another local, Josh, who is renting in Martin Valley and looking for a place to buy here. He shared that Martin Valley use to be a farm, and in the 50’s started selling land cheap, and spillover from the company town of Ocean Falls started buying that property that provided private ownership. Also, if you can spot the launch ramp in my earlier blog photos from yesterday, or in the photo today looking out on the water, there was a large Japanese cemetery under that ramp pavement. In the earlier days when the ramp was needed, that cemetery was just paved over. Eva was not feeling well again this evening, so a gentleman, Rob, came to collect the dock fee. He used to live and work here when the paper and pulp mill was running. He shared quite a bit of information about life here. How quite a few of the kids would use the pool after school. If I didn’t mention it yesterday, several of the kids placed in Olympic swimming. The pool is now filled in with dirt and gravel, and hidden in a field behind bushes. Rob can remember living in the Cypress apartments and how nice they were in their day. One thing I’ve put together on my own, along with some information received earlier when we had the cannery tour back in the Vancouver area, is a lot of the labor in early years was Japanese. And anyone else that was willing to work for cheap. There was a lot of segregation also. Later this morning, Les gave me a tour of the Marine Ways building and museum. He shared the history of the building, which use to be the Mill company shop, how he came to own it, and some personal stories about a well known local, “Nearly Normal Norman”. Norman was an eccentric caretaker and self-appointed museum curator well-known among boaters and travelers for his warm hospitality and extensive collection of abandoned town artifacts. It was he who put together the museum in Ocean Falls. I have not read the book, but several have recommended, “Rain People, the Story of Ocean Falls”, by Bruce Ramsey. Finally, the BC Ferry, Northern Sea Wolf, that makes a weekly run here, came in this evening. The rest of the week, there is water taxi service from Bella Bella and Shearwater.Read more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    This morning's sunrise at Forit Bay
    Still several miles out, but you can see Martin Valley at the bottom of the mountains.Small water fall from Ikt LakeFirst views of Ocean FallsThe mermaid that watches over the marina.Ocean Falls Municipal boat harbour.The gift store was located at the right corner of this building.The post office and court house.I think this hotel was the Martin Hotel. At one time close to 400 rooms. It's in shambles now.Another building deteriorating.Inside the Martin Hotel building.The Bank Inn. This is where the ice cream is! Bakery across the street.Some abandoned homes.Abandoned church locked up.I think this was one of several apartment buildings.Ocean Falls dam on the Link River.Link RiverView of Ocean Falls power houses from dam area.I wonder if this still works?My walk today.My Inreach track today.This evening's low clouds. The boat "SeaMount" on the right is where I had happy hour.

    Ocean Falls

    May 28 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Up this morning in time to see the sunrise. Left Forit Bay into the end of Gunboat Passage and almost immediately crossed Johnson Channel to Fisher Channel and Cousins Inlet to Ocean Falls. Still several miles away you could see Martin Valley at the bottom of the mountains. Ocean Falls is just a few miles SE of Martin Valley, at the end of Cousins Inlet. The inlet makes a 90 degree turn at Martin Valley, so you don’t see Ocean Falls until you make that turn. Just before coming to Martin Valley, there is a small water fall on the north side of the Inlet, coming from Ikt Lake. There were several boats already at the Ocean Falls Municipal Dock, but there was still plenty of space. The docks are in good shape, and there is trash and recycling bins at the top of the dock pier, near a single room bathroom. Also a phone booth, but I didn’t check to see if the phone worked. Both 20 amp and 30 amp service is available along the docks. I used the 20 amp, which gave me an opportunity to use one of many different electrical adaptors I have on the boat. (It’s a 20 amp twist lock style receptacle.) Soon after getting settled in, the rain came, and it rained the rest of the afternoon. Fitting, as Ocean Falls is reputed as one of the rainiest locations in Canada, with an average of 173” of rain a year! After lunch I put on my rain suit and walked around town. There is an operating post office here, and I needed some stamps, so that was my first stop. Mail here comes in and out once a week, on Wednesday. The post office and courthouse are in the same building. Ocean Falls was built in 1906 and wholly owned by large pulp and paper corporations like Crown Zellerbach. Almost every resident worked for the mill, lived in company housing, and shopped at the company store. The remote community boomed to a population of nearly 4,000. However, following the mill’s closure in the 1970’s and 1980’s, it transitioned into an abandoned ghost town that today has only a few dozen full time residents. I had hoped to get some ice cream here, but found out they only take cash, and I didn’t have any Canadian currency, or enough small US bills to buy it without losing with the exchange rate. However, I did have enough ones to buy a cinnamon roll for tomorrow’s breakfast. Before returning to the boat, I walked up to the dam. Singing horribly out loud as several folks warned me about a Black Bear in the area. (I did have my bear spray with me.) Ended up putting in 4 miles walking around today, and never did see the bear. Later this evening I was invited over for “happy hour” at a neighboring boat, a 42’ Grand Banks. I had met Bob and Darlene last week at Port Neville. (Before that, I had seen then leaving a small cove we were entering.) Very common along the PNW coast to see the same boats occasionally as we cruise the same waters. A much more pleasant experience sharing with this Canadian couple, than the sharing I had with the guy in Shearwater! While the rain has stopped this evening, low clouds have moved in. I did drop my crab trap in when I got here, as I usually do. I pulled it up 5 hours later to find 1 starfish, and at least a half dozen sea urchins. I decided not to drop it again. Ocean Falls had a reputation with the boating community for good crabbing. However, another fisherman I met on the dock said he hasn't had any luck with crabs this year. ..Read more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    Some boats in the Shearwater Marine work yard.
    Some boats in the Sherwater Marine work yard.Front range marker at the west end of Gunboat Passage.A view of Forit Bay on my chartplotter. Just a nice little cove off the main channel.Forit BayForit Bay, looking out.Forit BayMy Inreach track today

    Forit Bay

    May 27 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Today was mostly a pretty chill day. The anchorage near the shore of the bay never got any worse than some breeze driven ripples, and over night the breeze died down and the water was flat calm. I enjoyed a break in travel until afternoon. I try to stay off politics in my blog, as I do enough of that on Facebook. But I had some Canadian hick come by and make a comment about my Trump flag. He was referring to my American Flag. I told him that flag did not represent Trump, but he wanted to argue the point and when I said it represented America he stated that America voted for Trump. I pointed out the Canadian flag that I have flying higher on my roof staff, and that I respected both flags. He said that flag wasn’t much better, and left. I didn’t like that interaction so I took my American flag down shortly after he left. For about 15 minutes…. Then I decided to put it back up. My love and patriotism for the country that I was born in, will not be dictated by those that do not represent what this country has stood for and continue to take the United State’s standing down on a global level!!! End of my political commenting.
    Bill and Mike arrived early this afternoon and took on fuel at Shearwater. I pulled up anchor and went over to the marina dock where they also came when they were done at the fuel dock. I shared some crab with them, and then borrowed Bill’s oil changer vacuum pump to change my engine oil. Mike used it after me. Bill had changed his oil several days ago. Fortunately, Shearwater had a recycling center were we could offload our garbage and I could dump the used oil. After that, Bill and Mike walked around a bit and then took off for their anchorage somewhere on the route they were taking around Yeo Island the next two days. I headed out towards Ocean Falls, where I’ll meet up with them on Friday, and stopped part way at Forit Bay. A nice small and protected cove just off the main channel. Leaving Shearwater, I used Wheelock Passage to Seaforth Channel. The winds were blowing again out of the west at around 15-20 kts. The water was 1’ of chop as I turned on Seaforth Channel with the winds blowing down it. As Seaforth ended into Gunboat passage, the water calmed down. Gunboat Passage is a narrow scenic passage with a range marker to use entering on the west end. Forit Bay, where I am anchored now is at the east end.    Read more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    Pointer Island
    Cape KuperOld ship in Old Bella BellaThis one looks like it has seen better days.Sign on top the fuel pier1Can you find C-Traveler squeezed in there?Totem pole in front of Bella Bella schoolNot sure what the building was, but it had one of the taller totem poles.Bella Bella Big House1Next couple of photos are inside the Big House.Panoramic photo inside the Big House.Approaching Shearwater, passed by some buildings on shore.Mural on Shearwater Marine Supply.Inreach track today. Tonight, Bill and Mike are in that cove/lagoon just before my track goes west.Good night.

    New Bella Bella and Shearwater

    May 26 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Sun came out today, and it warmed up to the mid 60’s! Winds eventually picked up to somewhere between 10-15 mph out of the west. Bill and Mike ended up anchoring in Rock Inlet by Namu last night. Their plans today were to hike there this morning, then make their way to Kisameet Bay to see it, and finally anchor this evening in Codville Lagoon. They plan to hike around there tomorrow morning, and then head to Bella Bella and Shearwater later tomorrow.
    I ended up with just the one crab that I took out of the trap last night. I steamed the two crabs that I caught over the last two days, and then headed out for Bella Bella. Route was back on Fisher Channel then turned onto Lama Passage. Lama started out a little choppy, due to opposing wind on current. (Head wind, but I had a ebb (tail) current. Lama Passage turned north, and after that it was fairly smooth. While I’m thinking about it, in yesterday’s blog I mentioned porpoises. A friend of mine pointed out those were actually Humpback whales. So the tails I saw were Humpbacks also. Just before Bella Bella, I passed by Old Bella Bella, where the Canadian Coast Guard cutter,Cape Kuper, is docked. Saw a couple of old ships near there also. Then over to the fuel dock at New Bella Bella. Fuel was 2.48/liter. I only put 25 gallons on, as I plan to fuel at Bella Coola where fuel is just shy of $2/liter. That should give me enough to get to Bella Coola, and return if for some reason they are out of fuel when we get there. With calculating liters to gallons and including the exchange rate, the gas at Bella Bella worked out to be $6.82/gallon in US dollars and volume. Bill and Mike plan to circumnavigate around Yeo Island after getting fuel and spending the night here tomorrow. I’m bypassing the extra mileage and will get back together Friday at Ocean Falls.
    After fueling, I found the only spot left on the public dock, with just enough space to fit. I looked around Bella Bella and went inside the “Big House. You can google Bella Bella Big House to learn more about it. Then I stopped at the store to buy some groceries. There are several large totem poles around town, including one in front of the school. Left Bella Bella and went around the north tip of Denny Island to Shearwater. Thought about doing laundry here, however the machines took coins. I chose not to have any Canadian money with me, as I’m just using my credit card. The harbor master said there was an ATM machine at the next building, but it was out of service. Not a big deal. My laundry bag is getting kind of full, but I still have plenty of clean clothes! I came across the bay from Shearwater and anchored. Winds are forecast to be out of the WNW at 5-10mph, so even though I’m open to the large bay, it should be pretty calm.    Read more

  • C-TravelerBritish Columbia CoastTraveler
    Kwakume Point.
    Little Joe at Kwakume Point.Cabins at Koeye Point.Friend just informed me this is a humpback whale. It did look to big to be a porpoise.The next group of photos are at Namu.We see a lot of Bald Eagles up here.The little stream I'm anchored by in Kisameet Bay.Kisameet BayMy Inreach track todayAnother view of that little stream. This time from my kayak.This tree has a 90 degree bend near it's base.A Kisameet Bay float. Not sure who owns it...C-Traveler anchored in Kisameet Bay

    Kisameet Bay

    May 25 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Last night was a little rolley with some higher winds pushing some of the outside swells into our anchorage behind Green Island. Not bad, just enough to gently rock the boats. Pulled up my crab trap this morning with one legal sized male Red Rock crab. He’ll get steamed later. Headed out to Fritz Hugh Sound with just a little chop in 1’ seas. Winds were very light out of the south or southeast. We stopped at Kwakume Inlet to check it out. Bill and Mike decided to explore more in their Kaboats, so I told them I would continue on and meet them in our planned anchorage this evening. Not long after I left Kwakume, just off Whidbey Point, I’m pretty sure I saw the tail of a whale come up out of the water a couple times along with a steam spout. Unfortunately, the whale never came up again so no photo. North of Whidbey Point, the winds had turned to a slight breeze out of the north. And the seas became mostly calm. Bill and Mike also stopped at Koeye River to explore there by Kaboat. On my way north, I pulled into the small cove at Koeye to check it out, and sent Bill and Mike a message on Inreach about the size and depth of the cove. Koeye Point had some cabins on shore and a few larger kayaks on the beach. Seas were a little choppy around Koeye Point, but smoothed out again a little farther north. I think some porpoises were playing as I was approaching Morehouse Passage. At least I could see a couple fins/backs come out of the water a few times. (A friend just informed me those were humpback whales. The dorsal fin gave it away.) I turned into Morehouse Passage to go check out Namu. As I pulled into Namu Harbor, I could see the old cannery and village there were in shambles. I did some quick research on the internet, and found this:
    Once a bustling and vibrant salmon and herring processing hub owned by BC Packers, Namu has devolved into an abandoned ghost town plagued by toxic environmental pollution. Diminishing fish stocks and shifting industry methods forced the cannery to close in 1970. Today, the ancient Haíɫzaqv (Heiltsuk) village site sits decaying as an ecological liability. The rapid decline of Namu involves a complex mix of industrial history, failed ventures, and environmental neglect:
    • Commercial Boom & Segregation: In the early 20th century, Namu was a massive aquaculture hub employing hundreds of people. Workers were strictly segregated into different camps and work hours based on race, including groups of First Nations, Japanese, Chinese, and White individuals.
    • Industrial Closure: The collapse of local salmon stocks led BC Packers to shut down the processing plant in 1970. The site was sold to a private developer in the 1990s with plans for a sportfishing resort, but those plans never materialized, leaving the town to rot.
    • Environmental Hazards: The decaying structures and rusting fuel tanks have leached dangerous contaminants (such as mercury and asbestos) into the ocean for decades. Derelict vessels—such as the abandoned Chilcotin Princess—further complicated the cleanup efforts and posed immediate marine pollution threats.
    • Corporate Dissolution & Reversion: With the last full-time caretaker leaving in 2013, the site's most recent corporate owner was dissolved, causing the lands to revert to the Crown.
    • Heiltsuk Claim & Cleanup Efforts: Because Namu is an ancient, thousands-of-years-old village to the Haíɫzaqv Nation, the nation never ceded the land. The Heiltsuk have long been fighting for the restoration, cleanup, and return of the territory to its traditional stewards.
    I left Namu Harbour via Cloverleaf Passage, and back out on Fitz Hugh Sound, which was still pretty calm. I turned into Fisher Channel. It was a little choppy where Fisher and Burke Channels split off from Fitz, but then smoothed out again. I entered Kisameet Bay, which has several small islands. I dropped my crab trap and anchored next to a small stream entering the bay. Just checked my crab trap after about 6 hours and had one legal Red Rock crab. Cleaned him and put the trap back down    Read more

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