Hangzhou, China

We waited anxiously for guest Chef Hannah Che to finish signing an autograph sticker for Jorge. He will add it to his copy of her cookbook once we return home. There was still time to catch birthday cake with Nicki if we hurried to the main dining room. Her anticipated 21st had finally come, though we dined apart to enjoy this exceptional vegan dinner featuring tastes from Shanghai.

Orange and yellow dust from the Gobi desert cast a haze in the sky like ashes smothering the embers of a campfire. Morning came especially early after partying late also celebrating keyboard player Dave’s birthday. We dashed off to ride the high speed rail to Hangzhou for the day. A meager lunch leaves us unsatisfied. We arrive to West Lake, supposedly an important retreat. Thick haze keeps the area’s beauty secret. Uncomfortable, rushed, crammed into a small boat, it was clear this wasn’t going to be an easy day.

We tried to appreciate what was before us. Stressed guides failed to explain the context of where we were heading before exiting the bus on a highway and walking for 30 minutes to the temple gate. Curious about the Buddhas carved into the cliff, we fantasized about having more time so we could explore the winding paths between them. Fifteen minutes were up but still hours to go, we headed back to the bus for our excruciating return to Shanghai.Read more