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Travels with Dogs
Travels with Dogs

Travels with Dogs

In 2017 Harry finally admitted that yes, he did want to travel for months in a very small trailer with his wife, Renee, and two dog pals, Jack and Sam. This blog recounts their trials (many) and their tribulations (even more!) Read more🇺🇸Ashfield
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  • Travels with DogsOn the Road AgainTraveler
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    I'll take Manhattan!

    January 12, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ -2 °C

    Well, when I left off we were about to discover Manhattan, Kansas. Our hotel here was the Bluemont and it was right across the street from Kansas State University. I gravitate to staying in towns with universities. I like exploring campuses, checking out Libraries, and usually there is a lot of lawn for walking the dogs. Unfortunately the KSU campus was inundated with fat red squirrels which made walking the dogs difficult.

    I made two discoveries in Manhattan that I want to share - KSU has a great Library and we in Massachusetts have a connection to this town.

    When I went into the Main Campus Library (sans dogs) I introduced myself at the front desk and was immediately pressed to have a tour of the Library's best features by "Steve." Really nice guy. He told me that three years ago there was a major fire in the Library building and that what I saw now was after a $400 million dollar restoration. That means that the Library is a hub of fantastic up-to-the minute technology of which he was proud. He took me up to the top floor of the Library to show me what he called the "Hogwarts Room." This room was not destroyed by the fire even though it started in the roof, but suffered huge water damage. None of the Library's 300,000 million books were burned but they all had to be sent out to be cleaned and rid of the fire smell. What a mess that must have been.

    The Hogwarts Room is also known for four huge murals that were painted as part of the Public Works Art Project. Astonishing the reach of that Project. The murals, which you will see in this post, represent the four major areas of academic pursuit at the University - Agriculture, Industry, Arts and Home.

    The connection that Massachusetts has with Manhattan is that Manhattan was "founded" by "Free Staters" from Massachusetts brought in under the auspices of the New England Immigrant Aid Company. Reach back to third grade history and you will recall that a Free Stater went into a territory that was about to become a state and fought or lobbied to have that state come in as a non-slave state. Kansas did come in as a non-slave holding state.

    We liked being in Manhattan but time pressed so we loaded up and headed off to Denver. We hit our first bit of weather about 2 hours outside Denver. The I-70 was pelted with snow squalls and slowed traffic so we decided to take an alternate route into Denver which was not so great. In fact, it was kind of bad - limited visibility, snowy road, reduced speed, middle of nowhere, etc etc. Harry was driving and he did an amazing job of getting us to our port for the night just outside of Denver in Aurora at an Avid Hotel. Thanks Harry!

    Now we are heading to a dog park in an interesting part of town in Denver. It's not even 9:00 a.m. but I've been up since 5:00. The thing about time change is that the dogs don't get it. My well trained pup wants to go out at 7:00 Eastern time, even as we sit here in the Mountain time zone. Can't wait till we get the Pacific time zone! We are off to Green River, Utah after the dog park. Wish us luck getting through the Rockies!    Read more

  • Travels with DogsOn the Road AgainTraveler
    11

    Dang this country's wide

    January 11, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 0 °C

    But I think we've hit the half way mark!

    Let’s Review!

    On Day 1 we drove through Massachusetts, New York, and Pennsylvania

    Day 2 we continued through Pennsylvania, crossed the top sliver of West Virginia, into Ohio, and into Indiana, stopping at Terre Haute. We stayed the night in Terre Haute, home of Indiana State University and the square donut. We walked around the campus for our exercise and ate the donuts for fun. On to Manhattan, Kansas

    Day 3 we finished up one minute in Indiana (Terre Haute is on the border), crossed into Illinois, and then Kansas, where we stopped last night in Manhattan. Manhattan, Kansas that is. We will be exploring Manhattan later this morning and I will report back.

    We have stayed in some good places - starting with the famous Ohiopyle Suites, on to Home 2 Suites, and I’m writing from the Bluemont, across the street from the University of Kansas. That’s lucky because in past trips we stayed in some doozies. Two dogs limit your choices.

    We’ve had amazing weather. It was hot yesterday as we drove through Illinois - in the 50s most of the day, sunny. Friends have asked whether we’ve noticed the weather on California’s Central Coast, where we are heading? home to recent evacuation notices. Even the woman who owns the cottage we stay in has been in touch, I think to reassure us that the cottage was on high ground, since we have never heard from her before.

    Yesterday early evening when we rolled into Manhattan, under a wide blazing orange sky, we went first to a dog park to let the guys run. A dog owner there told us that it had been -5 degrees two weeks ago, probably the same cold front we had in Ashfield, but last night we stood comfortably around in 50 degree weather.

    Later today when we hit Denver, we will be facing our first weather challenge and we will have to bide our time in Denver to cross the Rockies. You can not get caught on I-70 in bad weather without chains - that’s up to a $1,000 fine. You can’t even get caught with tire tread below 3/16th of an inch. I mean, besides the potential fines, the threat of loss of life is also daunting! There’s a great website GoI70.com that gives great weather reports for crossing through the Rockies, and here’s what we are looking to avoid:

    "Snow continues on Tuesday morning ahead of a break on Tuesday afternoon. Heavy snow returns by early Wednesday morning and continues through Wednesday night. Dry Thursday through Saturday ahead of off-and-on snowfall during the week of January 16."

    So we are waiting for the “dry Thursday through Saturday” break, — we’ll be crossing January 12th. We are fortunate that we had enough of a taste of crossing in bad conditions when we crossed in 2021, during the height of the pandemic. So better to just get all the way through to Utah in one driving stint.

    And by the way, puppy has been doing great. He’s very Jack-like in that he sticks to his routine no matter where we are, he sleeps tons in the car, and he’s pretty cheerful. BUT he is still a puppy and needs lots of exercise and sometimes just gets into fits of naughtiness in part due to the restriction of being in the car for hours at a time. He’s a keeper.

    Finally, something has been bothering me — how can it be light so much later in Kansas then it is in Ashfield? Last night when we arrived here there was still a fair amount of light in the sky at 7:30 p.m. How do you explain that?    Read more

  • Travels with DogsOn the Road AgainTraveler
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    Ashfied to Ohiopyle, PA

    January 8, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    The 4th Great Western Migration - January 8, 2023

    Dedicated to Jack, January 2010 - August, 2022

    Gather round for I have tales to tell of strange new places.

    BUT FIRST! We had a pretty ordinary departure — we were out the door 100% on time, otherwise known as 9:30 a.m. It’s daunting to see that you have to cover 515 miles before you can put your feet up, but I try not to think about that too much. You also have to drive for a few hundred miles before you get your road legs.

    I had a low point about three nights before departure thinking about leaving and realizing that this would be our first westward journey without Jack. Made me sad - he was an extraordinary traveller. He had the back of the Subaru to himself and Sammie would have the middle seat. Now Kojak and Sammie sit together in the middle. There should be some pictures included here that I took right after I put them into the car, explaining that we would not be back for several months. I remember the first time we took off in 2017 when I actually had to pick Sammie up to get her in the car.

    Right now, as I look behind me, Kojak is sprawled across the whole back seat and Sammie is sitting upright in about 10% of the space. I don’t feel bad for her though because that pretty much mimics how I have to sleep every night - I get a 10% sliver to the right, Harry gets a 10% sliver to the left and Sammie and Kojac get 80% wherever they want it.

    We are spending our first night in Ohiopyle, Pennsylvania after 9 1/2 hours on the road. We came much the same way in 2021, but stayed the night in Somerset, Pennsylvania, which is the stopping point if you are going to the 9/11 memorial at Shanksville. I created this deviation off I-70 for this trip because somehow I noticed that Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater was in the area and I thought it would be fun to do something different our first day out. We are staying at The Ohiopyle Suites — just a couple of miles from Fallingwater.

    Getting to Ohiopyle was nerve-wracking because as we dipped south off the main road, I-70, for this detour it seemed that we descended further and further into nowheresville. We’ve been on the road for going on 10 hours. We are running on empty psychically, night surrounds us, and I can sense Harry’s growing unease. I’m the trip planner — this all falls all on me.

    But we roll into Ohiopyle and easily find out hotel which is cheerily lit up with blue Christmas lights. We are the only guests. We let ourselves into our room. We are indeed in the middle of nowhere but it feels interesting. The dogs are happy to be out of the car, we are happy to have a glass of white wine, and we eat our dinner of cheese and crackers, the dogs get kibble.

    Awaking this morning (6:30 - puppy time) we begin to realize what a gem Ohiophyle is. Our “hotel” is steps from bike and hiking paths that hook up with the Ohiopyle State Park, and next door to summer places closed for the season - kayak and bike rentals, coffee shops, bakeries. It looks cool. the Youghiogheny [yawki-gay-nee] River flows right by us, as does train tracks with a very active train schedule. As we set out on our walk, we cross the Youghiogheny. The river is rough and known to be difficult to cross, but people raft it. This area is also part of the Great Allegheny Passage bicycle trail which connects with the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal towpath trail to form a continuous 335-mile off-road trail from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania to Washington, D.C. In the morning, Harry thinks I’m amazing for finding this great place, and I feel relieved.

    We head out for our 10:00 a.m. reservation at Fallingwater. I’ve never been to a Frank Lloyd Wright house, but Harry has, in fact he’s been to Fallingwater. The website for the house says that many consider Fallingwater Wright’s masterpiece. It was built as a summer home in 1936 for Pennsylvania department store owners - Liliani and Edgar J. Kaufman. It is perched over the Bear Run waterfalls. It is listed as one of the 28 places you have to see in your lifetime by the Smithsonian Museum. Who knew? Here’s the list.

    I have pictures to show you which seem like a much better use of space than me jawing on about it but one thing I would like to point out to my gardening friends is that almost every path we walked was lined with towering rhodendrum bushes - can you imagine what this would look like in Spring? The Kaufman family owned Fallingwater until their son gave it to the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania in 1963. It’s astounding to me that in 1936 some people were so recovered from the depression that they could spend the kind of money needed to build Fallingwater.

    By 11:00 a.m. we were off to Terre Haute, Indiana. Catch you later!    Read more

  • Travels with DogsHere we go again ...Traveler

    Day 5 - more magnificent Rocky Mountains

    January 10, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We ended Day 4 at the Motel 8 I mentioned above in what can accurately be called an unhappy state. We were so freaked out about Washington and then this Motel 8 did not have the kind of room we asked for ahead of time - easy access to the outside. Again, we were stunned by the number of people walking around without masks. I just don’t get it. Since Harry had made this reservation he had to go in to deal with the front desk and I was worried about that. People around the front desk had to have a mask on, but workers were piling out of a van behinad me in the parking lot - none wearing masks. Finally, even though this was dog-friendly motel, there was no area to walk Jack and Sam. We disliked this motel so much we didn’t even take showers.

    I got Jack and Sam out early to try to find some place to walk them - 9 degrees weather and all. Things were better in the daylight, I could see that Dillon was nestled in high snow covered peaks, and that we were surrounded by pot shops. We scrambled around in the snow (Marcine will appreciate that I was doing this in my ankle boots with no socks). We packed up quickly eager to get back on I-70 but not before, yes, our soothing first stop at a Starbucks. Our normal breakfast was $1.00+ more here - which was explained by the Barista as the mountain town tax. The other interesting thing about Dillon was that there was an outlet shopping center - my blood quickened but we were too early for the stores to be open.

    We continued cruising through the Rocky Mountains much of the morning, high high up and very cold. Tried imagining what it would be like live in such a demanding environment. 78 of the 100 highest peaks of the Rockies are in Colorado. Also tried imagining how in the world did people actually cross the Rockies in covered wagons? But investigation reveals that the route that I-70 takes through the Rockies is not one of the paths taken by earlier explorers. The I-70 crosses the Rockies through the Vail pass, which was engineered by Charles Vail, in approximately 1940.

    We couldn’t resist going to take a look at Vail to see what all the bruhaha was about. The downtown and connected areas are crowded and everything is about skiing - people lugging their skis, getting on to buses with skis, being shuttled to ski areas. We on the other hand went in search of a dog park and we found a nice one - Stephen’s Park. The the first time in five days Jack and Sam were off leash and free. It seemed odd that this dog park was completely unfenced and next to a frontage road next to I 70 but - what the hay.

    We wanted to get to Grand Junction, CO for lunch - mainly because the name sounded romantic to us. The city gets the "grand" part of its name from the Grand River, which is now known as the Upper Colorado River. The "junction" refers to the confluence of the Colorado and Gunnison rivers. We were surprised to learn that this area has long been a grape growing and wine producing area (from the 1880s) and is also a long time fruit growing area. All of this development happened after the United States Government abolished the Ute (as in Utah) Indian Territory in 1881, forcing the Utes into a reservation so that the government could open this area to white settlers. Can you imagine? We got a nice salad and a nice sandwich from Dream Café in the interesting (picturesque) downtown area. The air and light was stunning. We told the staff at the Dream we were going to go eat in a park we saw on 4th street and the frontage road but were told not to go there because homeless people lived there. We were directed to a park near the Public Library where there were also homeless-seeming people, and some shady looking characters. Problem, Grand Junction?

    After lunch we hit the road hard heading to our destination for the night - St. George, Utah. We arrived there at about 7:00, exhausted as usual but kind of excited - tomorrow is our last day on the road.    Read more

  • Travels with DogsHere we go again ...Traveler

    Day Four - the Majestic Rockies

    January 6, 2021 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 3 °C

    Day Four - Salina, Kansas to Dillon, Colorado

    We left Salina in good spirits having found another Starbucks where we could get our now customary breakfast before hitting the road. We had our first “real” dinner last night too, getting a take-out steak dinner. Pretty good - beats crackers and cheese. But Salina, Kansas sure looked desolate and poor this morning when I took the dogs out for our first walk at 7:00.

    Back on to I-70: as it crosses Kansas I-70 is buffeted by the winds that blow hard across the Great Plains. I drove for the first hour and then Harry took over. It’s hard to drive when there’s a strong wind and even though the speed limit is 75 across the whole state, the trucks don’t go that fast due to the wind. The other strange thing about I-70 in western Kansas is that they have snow gates that they actually drop down to close the Interstate when there are bad conditions. They just close the interstate. I had never heard of that before.

    I started this entry saying we left Salina in good spirits but those spirits took a dark turn when we became absorbed in the catastrophe that engulfed our country this Wednesday, January 6. Everything seemed unreal - we were truly undone. We listened to the terrible news as we said goodbye to Kansas and slipped into Colorado.

    The change in landscape between Kansas and Colorado is immediate - although we were still surrounded by huge fields of grain and hay, they just looked more lush in Colorado. It doesn’t take too long to get to Denver and again, I-70 rolls right through the town which is fun. By the time we had Denver in the rear view we were already at 5,000+ feet - remember it’s called “the mile high city.” And when you are driving west through the city you see ahead that you are going to be driving into some serous mountains and gorgeous snow covered peaks. We took pictures which will show up in this blog someday. Very exhilerating. I was driving which was kind of fun because I drove through the city infrastructure and then into the mountains, including the Eisenhower Tunnel. That tunnel carries I-70 under the Continental Divide in the Rocky Mountains. The tunnel has a maximum elevation of 11,158 feet and is one of the highest car and truck tunnels in the world. We were spit out of the tunnel into very dramatic sunlight and began a seven mile descent! I made the descent in the slowest lane and probably did a number on our brakes. We have been hugely fortunate in this part of our trip because if we were having any kind of bad weather we would be required to put on chains, which of course we don't have, and there is up to a $1,000 fine if you do not carry chains from fall through spring. Who knew?

    Anyway, we landed in a Motel 8 in a mountain town called Dillon. I have never been in the Rockys like this before so it’s very interesting - there are Rocky Mountain towns that are just nestled along the road. I’ll be able to see more tomorrow and will report more. Now, I need a glass of wine and some time to digest what is happening in our country.    Read more

  • Travels with DogsHere we go again ...Traveler

    Day Three: Effingham, IL to Salina, KA

    January 5, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ -7 °C

    Day Three: Effingham, Illinois to Salina, Kansas

    Another grey start to our travelling day. Still pretty cold. Sammy’s better though. And our motel room last night was actually nice although still in a truck stop - The Baymont by Wyndham in Effingham, Illinois - pretty fancy. We had a Starbucks very close by where we got our now standard breakfast and found our way back to Interstate 70. Our mission to day is to drive 515 miles to Salina, Kansas where we will spend our third night on the road. I can still smell and taste, so so far so good. That's a COVID joke.

    Our first big landmark on today’s drive was St Louis, Missouri. It’s strangely exciting to see a city come into view when you are just driving and driving through countryside. 70 goes right through St Louis, no by-pass, which was dramatic. It’s like all of a sudden you are on Storrow Drive - very old looking infrastructure, and of course that beautiful arch, the Gateway to the West, which is truly huge. We also had to pass over a lovely suspension bridge which Harry took lots of pictures of but you know what? by the time I’m writing this at the end of a 10-hour day in the car, my desire to illustrate with photos is pretty minimal.

    I want to say right off the bat that Missouri has piss poor rest stops. Each stop has only one or two old vending machines and those vending machines are behind bars and have nothing you want to eat or drink, so why they have to be locked up is a mystery. On a more positive note, we had sunshine in Missouri and 49 degree weather. Another great thing about Missouri is that Lake of the Ozarks is IN MISSOURI!!! We have been watching Ozarks for the past several weeks but I had no idea Lake of the Ozarks is in Missouri. And the Osage River. That’s about it for Missouri but before we flew into Kansas, we went through Kansas City, Missouri - and then through Kansas City, Kansas. That’s gotta be confusing. Also, Missouri has great road signs - one fudge store boldly claimed there were no calories in road trip food. I’m afraid I am going to be living proof that is not true.

    I believe there is a reason we encountered our first 75-mile an hour speed limit in Kansas. You hit Kansas and say goodbye to rolling countryside and beautiful farms, and hello to acres and acres of, at this time of year, fields of hay and grain stubble. One interesting thing did happen while crossing Kansas, we crossed the center point of the contiguous United States. Also, we passed through Abilene Kansas, the home of Dwight D. Eisenhower before he came east at 20 to West Point and Russell, Kansas, the birthplace of Robert Dole.    Read more

  • Travels with DogsHere we go again ...Traveler

    Day Two

    January 4, 2021 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

    Somerset to Effingham, Illinois

    You might remember that I mentioned that Sammie was indisposed yesterday on the first leg of our trip - well, that also means that she was indisposed throughout the night which means one of us has to get up, get dressed and take her out into the very scenic parking area of the Days Inn.

    All this by way of saying we were not in the best mood when we woke up for Day 2 of this journey, one of us less so then the other. But it’s pretty darn hard to begrudge Sammie efforts on her behalf since we uprooted her from her routine and asked her to sit in the back seat of the car for ten hours. Good thing she can’t talk. And then there was the fact that it was snowing big fat flakes when I went out with the dogs at 7:30 - on a day we were not expecting more snow.

    However, things quickly turned sunnier when, while about to get on Interstate 70 going the wrong way (it’s really like objectively confusing) I noticed a Starbucks! So one breakfast sandwich and two coffee drinks later, we got on 70 going the right way. Yeah! AND the snow had stopped.

    So picture this: we are starting out in Somerset, Pennsylvania (9:30 a.m. departure again) and we are going to end up in Effingham, Illinois, and all we have to do is stay on I 70 the whole way. We are about to drive through Pennsylvania, the tiniest sliver of West Virginia, Ohio, Indiana and Illinois. It’s magic.

    The Pennsylvania land that we drove through was lovely rolling farm land with lots of silos and the feeling that we were in mountains. But winter bleak. We drove through Wheeling, West Virginia which oddly enough resonated with me because I had written about Joe McCarthy as an undergrad, and it was in Wheeling, West Virginia, at a talk before a woman’s club, that he first took out of his attaché case a fistful of papers that he waved around dramatically saying - I have here evidence of Communists in our Government! Next time you think we just escaped the worst political period ever remember Joe McCarthy - he was dispicable too.

    In Ohio we stopped at a lovely rest stop that had lots of park like grounds to walk the dogs and really good vending machines. This is what is important when you travel with two dogs. I also learned at this rest stop that Interstate 70 parallels and sometimes overlaps National Road 40 which has historial significance. National Road 40 is considered to be the first highway in the United States. Both Presidents Washington and Jefferson believed that a trans-Appalachian road was necessary for unifying the country, so this 820-mile long path through Pennsylvania, Ohio, West Virginia, Indiana and Illinois is considered the first federally funded road in the United States. When you are travelling on I 70 you will see exits to bring you down to 40 - side trips we are not able to take this time through. If you have some time, though, read about this road - it’s very interesting.

    We rode through Ohio, with our first glimpse of sun in three or four days, pleased to see big cities at Columbus and Dayton, into Indiana with a big city of course at Indianapolis and now here we rest for the night in Effingham, Illinois, having experienced our first time change. Effingham is at the crossroad of major north south roads and you cannot believe the number of trucks that are hunkered down here for the night - thousands. Another thing you won’t believe is that when we got to the office to check in here, there were three men standing in the check in office WITHOUT MASKS!!! Don’t worry, I called in to start the process and only went in after the maskless men exited. What is it with these people? when I see things like this I start to understand how we can have these ridiculous pandemic numbers - people are actually still not wearing masks!

    I have some pictures to download for this post but still have to figure out how to do it. Goodnight! onward to Kansas tomorrow.    Read more

  • Travels with DogsHere we go again ...Traveler

    First Leg

    January 3, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 0 °C

    January 3rd, 2020

    There is something enormously freeing about waking up one morning and saying okay let’s hit the road - California here we come!

    Harry and I did a good job of getting ready for this trip starting way back with organizing our barn in the unexpected warmer weather in November. Uh huh, that far back and yes it started with the barn. By the time we got up this morning at 7:00 we just needed to pack up our necessities and pile into the car by 9:30. Our first stop was Somerset, Pennsylvania which would bring us to the beginning of Route 70, which should take us directly west across Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinoise and all those “other states” until we hit Nevada Interstate 15 and head south on 15.

    Alas, between us and Somerset was a snowstorm that started about 3 1/2 hours into our trip. Lucky for me, that was the end of my driving stint and the beginning of Harry’s. He’s much better in snow. Three and a half hours of pretty intense snow. Poor Sammie has intestinal distress so we had to stop more times than we planned. In one of the stops we recognized that a half foot of snow had fallen. Also, at a Valero gas station in Pennsylvania two Amish horse drawn buggies went by in this very heavy snow fall at a very good clip. It was pretty dramatic to be at a regular old gas station and see these two buggies go by - beautiful horses, a fast clip.

    Well, we got to Somerset 10 hours after setting out and checked into a Days Inn Motel. Days Inn is our lot in life when travellng with two large dogs and wanting to be near the Interstate with access to our room through the parking lot. A lot of our friends are alarmed by the idea of us venturing across the country at the height of the pandemic and I totally agree but we weighed the risks and we told each other that we were making an informed decision The “informed” part of that sentence means that if something happens to us on this journey there can be no recriminations, second guessing, etc. And you have our permission to remind us of that.

    Back to The Days Inn - We are supposed to register from our car to minimize the only human contact we plan on having on this trip, and then just go inside to get the key. That didn’t happen exactly as planned at this first stop. I went into the office to show the clerk my driver’s license and to pick up our key. Both people working at the motel were behind a plexiglass petition but without masks. So far so good. I was in there for about 2 minutes when I realized I was hearing people talking nearer to me than they should be and looking up, I see a women (more than 10 feet away from me) talking to someone from behind the desk - WITHOUT A MASK ON. Major freak out. I told the clerk behind the plexiglass that I was leaving because I was super uncomfortable with someone not wearing a mask and rushed out to the car. Did I get COVID????

    Harry tended to the dogs while I tended to getting us ensconced in our room - we brought all of our linen, bed covers, food, a new hand propelled coffee maker, etc, and importantly wine for the evening. Getting us set up is a military field operation. All the while I am going back and forth into our room a guest from two doors down is outside her room smoking and trying to talk to me - which I am strongly discouraging since SHE IS NOT WEARING A MASK! Are these people crazy????

    And just to finish with a flourish - our room had an unidentifiable bug on the wall that Harry had to remove to the outside. Days Inn sucks. Two more things about Somerset - this is a town you might stay at if you wanted to visit the Flight 93 National Memorial - this is the area where the plane commandeered by the passengers and crew of Flight 93 on 9/11 went down. It is thought that the United States Capital was the terrorists’ destination thwarted by those brave folks. Also, Somerset abuts Johnstown, Pennsylvania which was the site of the largest flooding disaster in the 19th Century killing 2,209 people, and also the site of Clara Barton’s (founder of the Red Cross) first major disaster relief effort - the Johnstown Flood.

    Leg 1 completed - 482 miles. Tommorrow we set out for Leg 2 of the Great American Pandemic Get Away which starts us on Interstate 70 and ends at Effingham, Illinois.    Read more

  • Travels with DogsTravels with Jack and SamTraveler

    The party's over ....

    January 21, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    We rolled back into Ashfield on Saturday evening, January 21, 2018, temperature in the 20s, cold and gloomy. Hard not to think back on the sun we had left back in Fernandina, where I left you in my last post. From Fernandina we made our way to my sister's in Charleston, were we hunkered down for an extra day waiting for yet another ice snap to pass through the Eastern Seaboard. We had a really good time with Rita and Kurt, saw two movies and ate more bbq.

    We left Charleston on Thursday morning not knowing how far we would get that day nor whether we would spend the night in the camper or in a motel. We made it all the way to Roanoke Rapids, which is in North Carolina on the border with Virginia, went for the motel since we stopped driving late and had no water in the camper.

    We started our last day on the road a little on the late side - somewhat dragging our feet - and had a beautiful drive through Virginia - really stunning landscape that we vowed to visit in better weather. Our very last night on the road was spent at the the Microtel Inn and Suites in Hamburg, Virginia.

    Back to our Ashfield return: after spending Saturday night in Ashfield, we emptied and cleaned out our camper Sunday morning, and headed out for Montreal Sunday afternoon to return our camper. That was poignant - we had lived well in the 150 square feet provided by it and I didn't want to let it go.

    Since being back, our friends have asked several questions - what was the best part of your trip? would you do it again? how much did you spend on gas????

    These are hard questions to answer except for the last and we are in the process of calculating that. I think for me the best part of this experience was to strip away a lot of what goes on in my daily life. I was more present. I had fewer choices. We had no tv. I had four outfits and two pairs of shoes. I had to carry my toiletries to a communal bathhouse in the morning. I had to empty out anything I put into the trailer (or rather Harry did - thank you Harry!). I had to pay attention to Jack and Sam's needs. I had to be sure Harry was feeling good. In sum, everything was a little more immediate than what's typical in my ordinary daily life - and I am grateful for that experience. And yes I would do it again.    Read more

  • Travels with DogsTravels with Jack and SamTraveler
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    The long and winding road ...

    January 16, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Destin Florida January 13 |Fernandina Beach, January 14

    There is no denying we are on our way home. I could stay on the road longer but Harry is ready to turn in his driving gloves. Thank goodness we stopped in at Henderson State Park in Destin, Florida (think western Florida panhandle) before we started heading north. My cousin Diane mentioned this as a great place when we were heading west, but we couldn’t get in. This park is awesome. I think it may be the nicest place to stay in Destin. The beach is very built up on both sides of the State Park so it has that Miami Beach feel. But in the State Park stretch of the beach, when you leave your camper you walk down a long sheltered path until you get to a boardwalk that meanders to the Gulf of Mexico. Also, the individual campsites have a lot of vegetation so you feel private. Some may not like the fact that you can hear road noises in the Park, but we don't mind -- and are thrilled to be near restaurants, donut shops, etc.

    This is the whitest beach I have ever seen but I haven’t been to the Caribbean. I think it’s okay to post these pictures of a white sandy beach because I believe it is colder here in Destin today than it is in Ashfield. One fly in the ointment - no dogs on the beach! What?

     Fernandina Beach, Amelia Island, January 14

    We set out from Destin early on Sunday, 9:00 ish, and drove the whole day uneventfully on 10. Beautiful day. We rolled into the Fort Clinch State Park, Fernandina Beach, on Amelia Island at about 4:00 and we got a spot! This was the first time we didn’t have a reservation so we were feeling pretty lucky - this State Park is another great example of what I have said many times - check out the pictures below - you couldn’t stay in a nicer place than this on Amelia Island and it cost 28.00! We are going to go explore Fort Clinch shortly. If you come here, there's a tiny cuban breakfast/lunch place called Hola Cafe that has great media noches, Cuban coffee, empanadas, etc.

    But we are alas now in the eastern time zone, and when we hit the road tomorrow, we will be heading North.    Read more

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    Galveston! Oh Galveston!

    January 16, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Galveston Texas 1/10.

    We left Galveston this morning, January 11th, after spending one night at Galveston State Park. This State Park has both bay and ocean side camp sites and we went with ocean side which in this case is actually gulf side, as in the Gulf of Mexico. This Park was not as exciting to me as most of the others have been. I think when you opt for ocean side you are going to be out in the open, and steps from the ocean, so exposed. $25.00 a night though which you can not beat with a stick. We only stayed one night because we need to get serious about making our way back to the East coast and home. This was restaurant week in Galveston so we had a nice dinner (Red Fish - see dinner below) at Blvd. (That's the full name).

    We explored the old part of Galveston - The Strand - a little before heading for the ferry (free!) that connects Galveston to Port Bolivar and then Highway 87 heading east. Leaving the ferry we travelled over the smallest strip of land I’ve ever travelled over with the Gulf of Mexico on one side and Galveston Bay on the other connecting back to the Texas mainland at Gilchrist. Some of the pictures below are from along that strip with houses on top of stilts three stories high!

    We made our way to Lake Charles, Louisiana where we stopped for lunch. But before we got there we had our first super scary road event - a truck tire blew out right in front of us. Loud explosion, debris shooting out from the truck. I have to say Harry is one awesome driver. He did not freak out but drove around debris in the road and on we went. I was shaken up. This is why Harry is driving and I am writing.

    We had a lovely lunch at a Lake Charles restaurant called Luna Bar and Grill (see picture below). When we approached the restaurant we noticed they had a nice outside patio and asked if we could bring in Jack and Sam so all four were able to have a pleasant lunch and I broke my longstanding rule of not feeding dogs from the table. I’m hoping they will forget. I had shrimp scampi with gulf shrimp in a mustard sauce with sweet potato fries (do not know why they call it scampi), Harry had a hamburger with fries and we shared a crab cake. Crab cake got two enthusiastic thumbs up.

    Now we are on to Fountainbleu State Park in Louisiana where we will spend the night. This State Park is on the north banks of Lake Ponchatraine which I have always wanted to see.    Read more

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    Las Cruces to Texas

    January 13, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    We Left Las Cruces and headed to Davis Mountains State Park - deep in Western Texas. Why you might ask. One word - Marfa. We had heard of Marfa on our way to California earlier in December, and then our good friend Vince was going there - so we figured - better see it now because who knows when we’ll be this way again, etc etc. All we knew about Marfa was that it was a mecca for art installations and that “art installation” is sometimes considered a vulgar expression. We ended up going to Davis Mountains State Park because that is the closest state park to Marfa.

    I took some ordinary shots of landscape between Las Cruces and the Davis Mountains of Western Texas just trying to convey the vastness of Texas. Some are in my previous blog post and some I hope will be with this one. Beautiful light, beautiful expanses of land. Texas continues to amaze.

    We got to the State Park at a beautiful time of the day - the magic hour in movie parlance - and set up camp for the night. By the way, this State Park is beautiful and as usual, we paid about $25.00 a night to stay. The odd animal in this park is a Javalina, which looks like a boar but is called a peccary and is not in the pig family

    As we set up camp a family came by and told us about the McDonald Observatory which was just up the road, and something happening that night called a “Star Party.” The Observatory is affiliated with the University of Texas at Austin and is located at the top of one of the Davis Mountain Peaks. We went to an early twilight show, in addition to the “Star Party.” The earlier show was over my head, a grad student type talking about “plane of the ecliptic” and reporting there were actually 13 zodiac signs - the 13th one being Ophiuchus. I left the lecture and took the sunset picture below. At 7:00 we went to the Star Party and that was lovely. The Observatory takes light pollution very seriously - kids with those sneakers that make light had to get masking tape to put over their sneaks. Our lecturer was knowledgeable and accessible and we saw some great cosmic sites but the piece de resistance of the evening was going around to the various telescopes set up and seeing what was on the menu for this night. We went to two and saw nebulae and Uranus!

    The next morning we drove the twenty miles to explore Marfa. Marfa owes its fame to Donald Judd, an artist who worked from the forties to the beginning of the nineties. I thought I had read somewhere that Judd first became familiar with Marfa due to being stationed there, there used to be an Army base here, but have not been able to confirm that. He worked in many different mediums but what we went to see in Marfa were his concrete structures.

    I think Judd may have been one of the first artists to have others construct his work and he defended this practice arguing that methods should not matter as long as the results create art. He also advocated for permanent installations for his work and that of others believing that temporary exhibitions, being designed by curators for the public, “placed the art itself in the background, ultimately degrading it due to incompetency or incomprehension.” That’s a quote from Wikipedia! Judd rented his first house in Marfa, which is really truly in the middle of nowhere, in 1971 in part to have space for his art to be permanently displayed. Over the years he bought thousands of acres, some of them from the Army, and used all of them for various purposes related to his art, and of course, living space. Some of these lands are now managed by the the Chinati Foundation whose purpose is to keep art in the space in which it was created. Other artists are housed here as well, but we focused on Judd.

    A note on the town of Marfa itself: I don’t know what we expected but Marfa surprised us. It was on the whole very unprepossessing and hard to figure out. It is very underdeveloped except for some chichi hotels and stores which look crazily out of place. We did manage to find a really good place to have breakfast and I, of course, captured the food below.

    From Marfa we drove to Austin where we had mundane business things to take care of - car’s 12,000 mile checkup, etc. We did many of the same things we did in Austin on our first visit with the exception that we tried a different bbq place, The Salt Lick, located in Driftwood, Texas. You have to go to a place like that just because of the name, right? We left Austin after two nights to visit Galveston, a town that for some unclear reason I have aways wanted to see. Fortunately Harry agreed!    Read more

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    Apache Junction, Lost Dutchman

    January 9, 2018 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    We left Malibu for Apache Junction, Arizona where we stayed at the Lost Dutchman State Park which abuts not only Superstition Mountain which you will see in the pictures below, but also the Tonto National Forest. This was a really great camping ground - steps away from trails that led into Superstition Mountain. Inexpensive at about $20.00, but you should be careful about checking where your campsite is because the bathrooms can be quite far -- in fact, we drove to them!

    The Park is named after a German immigrant - Jacob Waltz - who actually never really was lost, and wasn't Dutch either, but the goldmine he discovered (allegedly) was lost. How does that happen? People still look for it. The Town is called Apache Junction because it is a cross road between an Apache Trail that the Apache took through the Superstition Mountains and the junction with U. S. Route 80. Finally, the mountains are called Superstition Mountains because there are many Indian legends surrounding the mountains so Superstition Mountains became a somewhat dismissive name given by the white folk to the Mountains.

    The most challenging hike at Lost Dutchman Park is climbing to the Flat Iron peak of Superstition Mountain which takes about three hours to do one way and involves hard climbing at certain parts (bouldering?) Neither of us are really prone to accepting physical challenges, except for Harry's days of marathoning, but I took it into my head to climb to a lower part of Superstition Mountain. After much stopping and starting, we made it. I believe we were in excess of 4,500 feet there, but let's be clear, the camping area is at 4,000 feet. This State Park would be a great place to train and eventually do the more challenging Flat Iron hike. I'm pretty sure some of my friends (Tamara?) would be able to do it just right out of the box.

    We were lucky to meet up with some great friends on this segment of our trip. We had a lovely dinner with Harry's cousins, Russ and Edna, while here and that was awesome! They live 30 minutes from Apache Junction but were kind enough to join us in AJ since we had driven all day. Thanks Guys! The next night we drove 30 or so minutes to Fountain Hills to have dinner with Harry's old Peace Corps pals Kirby and Linda. That was really fun.

    After two nights in Apache Junction we set off for Las Cruces where we had another great dinner, again with Harry's friends from the Peace Corps, Linda and Dan. Great seeing you Linda and Dan! We didn't spend too much time in Las Cruces, just enough to explore the Mesilla area, which borders Las Cruces, and we added a goat, Billy, to our camping family. I'm sure you will see him in later pictures. Mesilla is an authentic part of the old West, having affiliations with Billy the Kid, Pat Garrett and Pancho Villa. I think these guys were interested in Mesilla because it served as a stage coach hub for many years. But then when the railroad came through this area, it went through neighboring Las Cruces rather than Mesilla (they wanted too much for the land), which resulted in Las Cruces becoming a booming town and Mesilla staying small and joining the National Historic Register.

    I am including some pictures of the terrain going deep into East Texas - destination Davis Mountains State Park -- where we planned on visiting Marfa, Texas!    Read more

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    Happy New Year Malibu!

    December 31, 2017 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    We are creeping up to midnight as I write this from the coziness that is our camper. Harry and I spent all morning cleaning - Harry worked on the car which can get pretty gross with two dogs in it all the time and I washed clothes. We cleaned the inside of our camper and then we cleaned ourselves. I think we were getting ready for the New Year. Then we took the dogs to Leo Carillo State Park to romp. It was a drop dead beautiful day with very fresh air and people were just lying around basking in the sun on the last day of 2017. I'm not posting pictures because that seems unduly harsh for our many East coast friends - but the morning was deeply relaxing.

    We met dear friends for lunch, did some shopping for dinner, and then hustled back to our spot to ring in the New Year. And so picture us here on a bluff in a Malibu RV Park finishing our Moet & Chandon, sounds of disco from the Park's New Year's Eve party slicing through the air, the dogs curled against us in our bed, and us thinking of you and hoping that 2018 is good for all those we hold near and dear. Happy New Year!

    I am just going to add pictures that I took of my favorite park in Los Angeles, the Will Roger's State Park located in Pacific Palisades (and don't confuse it with the Will Roger's State Beach.) The Park has his house and his stables and the stable is gorgeous - I include pictures of it for my horse loving friends.    Read more

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    Jack London Square, Oakland, CA 12/28-29

    December 31, 2017 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Here's something you probably don't know about us - we love Jack London Square in Oakland California! We've stayed at the Waterfront Hotel for the last four years or so around Christmas time and love it. The hotel is on the Oakland Estuary, and abuts the Port of Oakland, one of the five largest ports in the United States. There is also a ferry just steps from the Hotel that can take you to San Francisco. The Square itself is very lively with lots of restaurants and bars (none of which we go to), and a movie theater! For two people who live 40 minutes from a movie theater, this is very exciting.

    Jack London had a strong connection to Oakland and Berkeley and later moved further north to the Sonoma area. The Square has preserved the log tavern where he drank, and the Square has about 5 sculptures from different aspects of his life - including one of White Fang.

    So we had two lovely nights here, got to see more of Trianda and Gunther, and our other dear Berkeley friends, and then, Friday morning, we reunited with our dear Camper, and headed to our last port in California before heading east - Malibu!    Read more

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    You Must See the South Oregon Coastline

    December 31, 2017 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    These are shots that I took on our journey from Portland to Oakland - we stopped in Eureka, CA after a very long day of driving, and got up early the next morning to continue onto Oakland. But this coastline - it is unbelievable - we were breathless.Read more

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    Portland!

    December 31, 2017 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    We arrived in Portland on Thursday, December 21, in the late afternoon, under a grey lowering sky. On the following day, Friday, Harry and I took Stella, Dino and Ary to see "Cinderella" at the Northwest Children's Theater, again under lowering skies. This was the first time that all three kids were old enough to be totally focused on the performance. Stella and Ary met all of the cast members after the performance and had their programs autographed! That evening the sky gave way and we had freezing rain or snow from that moment forward. These days in Portland were family-centered and lovely and very rejuvenating. Thank you all for putting up with us and Jack and Sam - We had a great time! On Wednesday morning, December 27, we regretfully left everyone behind and headed out on the long slog back to Oakland, arriving at our favorite hotel - The Waterfront in Jack London Square - exhausted but in time for the evening sunset.Read more

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    Our One Night Stay in Ashland, OR

    December 31, 2017 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 13 °C
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    Transition - California to Oregon

    December 24, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ -2 °C

    Up until Berkeley we had been in pretty amazing weather and we had gotten very very spoiled. But we learned that change was in the wind - freezing weather in Oregon. We had to unhitch in El Cerrito and leave our camper in front of Trianda and Gunther's house (Thanks Guys!) because the camper cannot be in freezing weather - remember the 10-hour drive from Austin to El Paso? So with mixed emotions (happy and happier) we set off for Portland, the end point of this first phase of our trip, with just the Subaru.

    Again, and I am grateful for this, we had a lovely drive to our chosen mid-way point, Ashland, Oregon. We chose Ashland solely for the fact that it divided the 10 hour drive to Portland nicely. One thing about the drive north was that neither of us had ever been on the northern parts of I-5 and it was interesting to see what the landscape was like up there - so that's what we have pictures of below - our drive from Oakland to Ashland, and then in my next post I will show you where we stayed in Ashland - which turned out to be awesome! stay tuned!    Read more

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    Berkeley IS the Center of the Universe

    December 23, 2017 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 -1 °C

    Hello out there! We had another uneventful trip (PTL) from the San Luis Obispo (Nipomo) area of California on upward to Trianda and Gunther's house in El Cerrito. We left Nipomo on Sunday, December 17 and arrived some 8 short hours later in time for a very lovely Sunday holiday dinner of chicken and squash and a beautiful grain salad prepared by T & G and my dear friend Jocelyn joined us.

    El Cerrito butts right up to the San Francisco Bay and next to the San Francisco Bay is the world's best dog park. It's acres and acres with lots of places for dogs to jump into the bay and swim if they are that kind of dog - we put in 2 miles with the dogs every morning we were there.

    The other great thing about this dog park -- its called Point Isabel Dog Park by the way -- is that right in the parking lot there is a dog grooming shop and a cafe where not only can your dog go but they are off leash! It was fun and Jack and Sam were in dogs' heaven.

    This was a lovely three-day stay where we got to catch up with Trianda and Gunther (who we hope is doing amazingly well after his surgery) and Jocelyn and Vince, and a few Christmas tasks. Our recommendations for Christmas shopping are the 4th Street Shops in Berkeley and the El Cerrito Plaza, and the food at Tacubaya is the best - do not pass up the fish tacos.

    Getting close to Christmas!    Read more

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    3 Days in Nipomo, 12/14-16

    December 18, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    I know many of you will have no idea where Nipomo is but it's worth a peek at your California maps - it's in the area of Santa Maria (as in Santa Maria bbq), near Guadaloupe. Our friends Casey and Susan Case live there with their two horses, Shamrock and Will, and they are at present down to one dog, Raleigh. We spent three perfect days there, along with their brother-in-law, Maurice, who was a refugee from the Carpinteria fires. He was pretty stressed out but still managed to make us fabulous Yorkshire pudding, guacamole and bread pudding out of panettone. The first pictures below are of scorched earth and smoke on our way up the coast.

    The dogs could not have been happier - Sammie tried to make friends with Shamrock, not so successful, and both Jack and Sam got to run and romp with Raleigh and Maurice's dog, Lily. I got to take 10,000 step walks with Susan, and Harry got to catch up with his dear dear friends from his Peace Corp and grad school days. sweet.

    The next two posts have more Nipomo pictures. xoxoxo to all    Read more

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    Malibu, Oh Malibu, tis of you I sing ...

    December 13, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    I love Malibu and Topanga Canyon. For me this is the quintessential California experience. I don't mean the tony Malibu Colony parts, but the surfers off the side of Pacific Coast Highway, the coastline stretching out in front of you, the impossibly blue sky, the scrub, the fauna (right now parched,) the local restaurants.

    We are in an RV park about 20 miles from Topanga Canyon, on a ridge, so that when we pulled into our spot we had a view of the Pacific and could hear the waves. Delicious. This is the most expensive RV park we've been in at about $80.00 a night but the view alone makes it worthwhile. But it's also a nice park - wide spaces, nice bathrooms (I'll spare you pictures of the bathroom this time), a laundry facility with the best view of any laundry facility in the country. When you stay someplace like this, you have to resist the temptation to pop into Santa Monica or LA because you will get caught up in traffic and spoil this experience.

    We went to my favorite LA restaurant on Monday afternoon - Inn of the Seventh Ray - with our dear friend Hollis who introduced us and her son Ethan. Very Topanga Canyon, my food was infused with special elevating vibrations, etc. etc. and lunch was many hours. It's beautiful and well worth a visit if you come.

    Our time here is devoted to visiting people so not anything too interesting for you but I do have some nice pictures to show you with more to come. Hope you are well! xoxo    Read more

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    San Diego and LA, 12/8 & 12/9

    December 12, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Did I mention in my last post that I was reluctant to leave Tucson? but we did, and were in the car for about 7 hours as we travelled to San Diego. Our campground is in Bonita, California, called Sweetwater. Another State Park and nice but not great. Of course the big thing being about the San Diego-area is the near perfect weather. At first I was not that excited about being in SoCal - I was not happy about the traffic and having the camper in 7-lanes of freeway traffic. But Harry has been fearless in his driving and he arranged our free day in San Diego (Dec. 9) so my spirits picked up.

    We went to Balboa Park which is 1200 acres smack dab in the middle of San Diego that has the Zoo and 17 museums (dinosaurs, the study of humankind, photographs, and automobiles to name a few) so enormous and we were there on a Saturday. Pretty much everything we do is dictated by Jack and Sam (thus the name of this blog) because museums, for example, are not yet pet-friendly. We would have liked to see an exhibit about cannabilism but had to content ourselves with taking pictures of the gruesome poster (see below) and except doggie treats from the docent.

    Saturday was also dictated by finding dog parks for Jack and Sam which we try to do often to compensate to them for their many hours of confinement in the car. We found an off leash park within Balboa but we had our real score when we drove up the coast 20 minutes to Del Mar and found a beach that allowed dogs. Del Mar is gorgeous, tony, and right on the Pacific. It also happens to be the very first place I ever visited in California way back when, so it was interesting to revisit.

    Next morning we did our usual pulling up of stakes and headed further up the coast to LA. I have to admit, I was still out of sorts, and Harry and I experienced our first bout of snipy behavior. In some ways that is not bad after living in each other's pockets for three weeks, but just the same, unpleasant. And that is the mood in which we arrived at Kathy Glasscock's memorial service at 2:30 p.m. in "The Valley." Kathy had many accomplishments, her most recent being as a landscape designer. Her memorial was a Buddhist 49th day after death service and we got to chant. Bayliss had people over to his house after and it was lovely to hang out with some old friends and experience the peace Kathy created in her own backyard.

    We spent this night at Hal and Ricki's back in LA, right next door to where Harry lived for many years. This was the first my mood started to lift because I did not have to pretend I was feeling anything but grumpy and I could solicit advice about how they dealt with being out of sorts with each other. Ricki seemed to think that I am a control freak which of course is not true, I just always know the best way to do something. There's a difference isn't there? What???

    Anyway, enough of this soul searching, you've probably stopped reading anyway. I am all better now and on Monday we moved to an RV place in Malibu for the next three nights, 12/11 through 12/13. Yummy. Don't hate on us although without my knowledge Harry did send a picture of me in the sunshine on a day when Ashfield was getting more snow. That was a low blow.    Read more

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