• 7 days in Siem Reap

    13.–20. jan. 2025, Cambodja ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Hi everyone,
    Last time we wrote, we were in Battambang. To get to Siem Reap, I thought it would be fun to take a boat. The boat part was pretty fun. What we didn’t know, was that the river was too low to use for a part of it at the beginning, so we would have to use a car. When we saw the car, we thought it was to take us to where the boat was, like a 10 minutes ride. We were happy to sit at the back of the 4 wheels drive: a new way of transportation we hadn’t tied yet. But the ride was over one hour on a very bumpy road… It was less fun after 30 minutes! But we finally got to the boat on the river, and it took us for another 5 hours to reach Siem Reap. On the way, we saw some fish (to the kids’ delight), some floating villages all along the river. During the rainy season here, the river can go up several meters, so most of the houses have big barrels attached under, to be able to float when the water rise.
    It is amazing how everyone here in Cambodia, adapts to any situation. This is by necessity of course, but it reminds us that we can always find solutions to any problem we are faced with.
    We arrived in Siem Reap and quickly, it is very noticeable that this is where the money is, because this is where the tourists are. It is very different from when I came here 13 years ago. Apparently during Covid, as there were no tourists, the city got a massive “facelift”. They redone a lot of the streets, and it looks a lot more modern. And of course, it is very touristy. This is where the Angkor temples are, which are the main reason why a lot of people come to Cambodia. Angkor Wat is on the Cambodian flag, and this is the only flag with a monument on it.
    Siem Reap is located on the north of the Tonle Sap, which is a big lake in the middle of Cambodia.
    When we arrived at our guesthouse, we were pretty tired, so we did a bit of walk around to situate ourselves, but after a quick dinner, we went back to our room to sleep.
    On the Tuesday, we went to visit the National Museum. This is obviously all about the Angkor period which run from the 9 to the 14th century. Angkor was the capital city of the Khmer empire. In this area, there are more than a thousand temples, some very run down and some still standing. They are protected as a UNESCO Word Heritage Site. The museum was a good introduction to the history and to have an idea of what those temples were about and what to look for when visiting (symbol we could recognise and so on).
    We then went to Khmer cuisine class, and it was amazing! We had to choose a starter, main and desert (we each tried a different one, so we could taste it all!) and we cooked it. Our teacher was brillant a showing us what to do, but without doing it for us (especially with the kids). We learn to use some of the spices to make some delicious sauces. I love watching the kids doing it by themselves and enjoying it! Then we got to eat the dishes, and they were all amazing! It was an excellent experience that we will try to do in different country.
    After that, we walk around the tourist area and because Andrew and Emma really really really really wanted to do it, and Andrew paid for it, we got a “feet massage by fish”: you know those tanks where you put your feet in it and little fish nibble on your dead skin. It was fun. If we had listened to the kids, we would have stayed there all afternoon! After that Emma treat us all with a full body massage (everything is cheap here). It was a remedial massage, and those masseuses are strong and work your body hard! They were nicer on the kids though! We all enjoy it (not too sure for Kev!) A bit more of walking around and back to bed for a big day of walking the next day.
    Wednesday was temples day. We choose to do a tour to get some information about the history and the details on the temples, but I am not a big fan of tour and will try not to do them in the future. The bus picked us up from the guesthouse with other travelers and of to the temples. To buy tickets, they have now a massive building with easily 30ish ticket boots and they were all with a line (there is so many people visiting the temples). After buying out tickets, we started with Angkor Wat, but we stopped so many times to let people took selfies and group pictures, that really got on my nerves! I am a pictures person, but how many pictures of yourself in front of something do you need! Anyhow, the guide was given us good information about the temple we were seeing. Angkor wat is beautiful, but it felt less magic that the last time I went there. They are doing a lot a reparation on the temple to make them look better, but I feel it is taking the magic away a bit. I want to see rocks that have been carved several centuries ago, not a new rock carved in the 21st century. They even put platform at different places for people to take selfies…. They took a lot of the statues away to expose them in museums. They are also, according to our guide, planning on removing some of the massive trees which have grown between the rocks as they are moving them and destroying the temples. I found it sad, as for me it is part of the beauty of this place, how the nature mixed with those beautiful temples. Anyway, it is still a wonderful experience to visit and look at the carvings on the walls and walk into hallway where people lived in 1000 years ago.
    There are a lot of temples to visit at Angkor and we visited a few of them: Angkor wat, Ta Phrom, Baphuon and Prasat Bayon (I’m writing the name as just the names sound magical!).
    We saw some monkeys and those were friendly. They were young and climbing on people playfully. I wasn’t too comfortable (they are wild animal!) but the kids loved watching them play.
    We finished the day watching the sunset on the hill of Phnom Bakheng. Some of the temples where you can climb at the top are not for kids under 12 years old. Which means that Andrew and Emma missed climbing up a couple of the temple, which was a bit sad. It was the case for the temple where you can watch the sunset from, but to be honest, it was nicer as we watched the sunrise from the hill slightly lower than the top, but it was still beautiful, and we were not stuck between thousands of tourists! We were exhausted by the end of the day, but it was an amazing day.
    Thursday was a bit more restful. We drove one hour and a half to the Kulen mountain, which is one of the most sacred mountain in the Khmer culture. There is a reclining Buddha carved at the top of a massive rock at 8 meter high and a river with 1000 carvings of yoni and lingams which are representation of the feminine (yoni) and masculine (lingam) symbols to invoke fertility in the riverbed. You can see the carvings just under the water. We also saw a source a water and we loved watching the water coming out of the sand at the bottom of the source.
    On that river, there are a couple of waterfall and we had a lovely time picnicking near the river and the kids splashing in the very cold water of the river. I had a couple of very brief dip!
    On the evening, we had dinner in a restaurant who has Apsara Dancers. Apsara dancer are traditional Khmer dancer. All their dances have a story. The women dancers use the position of their hands with very precise movement and position which each have a meaning. It was a great evening and I highly recommend finding a show of Apsara dancers if you come to Cambodia.
    Friday was Aquarium day. This is a new aquarium in Siem Reap and it was actually pretty good. We are going to do aquarium when we found one as the kids, especially Andrew, are obsessed with fish! It was a lovely visit. Emma ate something that upset her tummy the day before, so she was feeling a bit poorly, but she was all back to normal after a nap in the afternoon.
    In the evening, we went to see the Phare Circus. Because they are such a wonderful organisation, I want to do an entry on our blog just for them. So you can read it on our next post.
    Saturday, we went back to see more Angkor temples. This time, we just got a tuktuk to take us around the different temples, not a guide tour. And there were less tourists, as those are less known. It was really fun. The kids are getting a lot more confident and went by themselves around the temples. Some of them were a fair size and it was such a great time getting lost in them, and looking at the carving, the statues, the trees which grow in them (the one still there). We also played “spotted” with the kids. When one of us could spot the other first, we said “spotted”. It was a great time. I think we all enjoyed ourselves.
    The Angkor temples are amazing. I am a bit worried about the way they “restore” them. I feel that some of the magic is already gone with the removal of some of the massive trees which grow in the temples (even if I do understand that those trees are damaging the temples). I think it is a difficult line to walk between saving the magic of those old temples caught inside a forest and keeping the temples intact.
    If the Angkor temples are on your list of things to see, don’t wait too long to come and visit. I’m not sure what will be left in 10 years!
    Today we are having a rest day as it was a very busy week. We are writing our blog and not doing much!
    See you next time! Mel

    13.1.2025. Off to our next destination. A boat ride from Battambang to Siem reap. Found out because the river is really low we need to go by car for a bit first. After an hour or more in the back of a Hilux we found a boat. Looks nothing like the picture but hey! As we ventured further down the river towards the lake known as the Tonle sap, the river became deeper and wider. Small villages on the riverbank popped up, shops and schools. People living on the river. Cruising around in boats like we do in cars.
    14.1.2025. Off to the museum! Get some info before stumbling around the ruins. Useful idea, great museum.
    Mel's idea next, we went and did a cooking class. I was skeptical as my insides are still not happy with me. Turns out I'm a pretty good authentic Khmer chef. Food was bloody great, we all had a go at each other's dishes. If you ever get a chance to try fried banana with passion fruit do it, trust me.
    What do you do with yourself after a massive meal? Stick your feet in a tank full of hungry fish to nibble all the dead skin off is what. Followed by a proper massage of course.
    15.1.2025. Angkor Wat. An extraordinary series of temples and buildings surrounded by a huge moat. Abandoned and lost to the forest for centuries, only to be found again by a French explorer when they occupied the area. Kids had their first real contact with monkeys here. The guide was playing with some and one climbed on Emma and gave her a playful bite. Freaked out a little she did, but so would I.
    We explored Angkor Wat for a whole day, but it was nowhere near enough time. There is so much to see here. Finished with watching the sunset after walking up a bit of a mountain.
    16.1.2025. Car trip to Mount Kulen where we saw a huge lying Budda carved into a massive rock, walked up and down a river and checked out the 1000 lingas carved into the river bed. From there we went to a waterfall. Before anything else tho we had to eat. My appetite was somewhat back so I grabbed some chicken on a stick. Or so I thought, was actually chicken livers on a stick. Still pretty good but that first bite was surprising. Deep fried battered banana was next, yum. The water was lovely tho freezing . We went a little up the river and the kids played in the water for ages, while we sat and watched. I got in for a bit but not too deep. Emma doesn't seem to notice the cold. Andrew did but he played shivering anyway.
    Back in Siem reap, we walked around the city centre a bit, had a couple beers in a bar (nearly nodded off). Then went for dinner at Robam, an place that offers a free Apsara show with dinner. Good food and a great show, kids were buggered but wouldn't leave until the end of the show.
    17.1.2025. Aquarium day! Emma spewed twice during the night! We're all buggered straight up! Except Andrew, who is as annoying as ever (kidding). Was a pretty reasonable experience with a free return bus. Met a few Aussies there. A dad, daughter and grandson. Saw otters, Otters! Everyone loves Otters. They're bloody loud when they know the foods coming tho. Saw tigers, at an aquarium that's right.
    After that, we had lunch back in Siem reap. Fried chicken and rice. Yep my appetite is back. Back at the room, Emma is asleep (she had a rough day but did so well) and the rest of us are blogging.
    It's the evening and we're on the move again. Tuktuk to the Circus! Dinner and a show. What a show! The youngers kids gave us a glimpse of their talents during dinner. Was great. Didn't know what to expect of the show, certainly didn't expect it to be as good as it was. Language barrier didn't matter, you could follow the storyline through the actors. The acrobatics were impressive. So much energy. Home late, straight to bed.
    18.1.2025. We decided to do more temples, but not with a guide or group. Had breakfast and found a Tuktuk driver who would take us around for the day. Mel didn't like the guided tour earlier, this allowed us to explore at our own pace. It was like a green light to Andrew, we let him off on his own as long as he was careful. Not a single square inch of that first temple was left unexplored by Andrew. He loved the freedom. Emma is still crook, so she stuck with me for the first part of the day. She got better during the day and more confident with going off on her own a bit. Mostly following Andrew. Five more temples explored today I think, or was it six. Dinner and bed.
    Kev

    Hi it’s me Emma. On Monday, we took a car to a river and then a boat to Siem reap. On Tuesday, we went to a museum and saw thousands of Budha statues. Then we went to a cooking class and learnt how to cook. After that we went to a massage where fish nibbled dead skin off our feet, then we got a full body massage. Then we walked around the tourist area and then walked back towards the river. On Wednesday we did a tour with a guide to temples. First we visited the Angkor wat then we looked at sculptures. And after that we went to Ta Prohm Temple then the Angkor Thom with monkeys. Then last but not least we walked up a hill to watch the sun set. On Thursday we went and saw a laying Budha on top of a big rock. After that we saw the 1000 Linga river and then we went and played in a waterfall. After that we had a great dinner because we saw an Apsara show. On Friday, we went to the aquarium then we had a afternoon rest. After we went to a circus and it was a must see! On Saturday, we went on a tuktuk to MORE temples but without a tour guide which was good because I think he took to long taking selfies.
    Emma (8 years old)

    It is yet again the amazing, the awesome, the great, drum roll.
    ANREW BRIDSON
    Please enjoy.
    On the 13th we didn’t do much we were supposed to go on a boat to go to Siem reap but a bit of the river was dried up, so we had to go on a car for a bit. After a while we reached the bit where we could go on the boat, there were lots of fish, like eels, little fish, big fish, catfish there are lots of catfish in Cambodia. When we got there, we walked around a bit to look at the place and to find dinner, we found a good restaurant had dinner then to the hotel.
    On the 14th we went to the museum it had a lot of artifacts and paintings, but it also had some swords and armer which was interesting. There were also canons and ships it was cool there were lots of jewels and valuable stuff if I sold everything in there, I would be a millionaire. After that we went to something called a cooking class someone taught me how to cook a bit of Khmer food, I learnt how to cook spring rolls, curry, and these little white desert balls. After that we walked around for a bit and then I saw this tank of fish that I could put my feat in and they would nibble all the dead skin of my feet. Then we went to a massage. After that we walked around then went back to the hotel.
    On the 15th we went on a tour to Angkor Wat and a few other temples, Angkor Wat is a temple. Most of the temples had bits collapsed and there were lots of different broken sculptures plus there were lots of passageways. I walked around but I had to follow a tour guide it was annoying I couldn’t go where I wanted. In one of the temples there very friendly monkeys, I could stick my hand out and they would jump on me. I didn’t do it because there was three and is one jump on me the other two would jump on me too. At the end of the day, we went up a hill too watch the sun set we waited for while so I climbed some trees. I got told to slow down did I listen, NO. Why would I? I only stopped when I hurt my hand swing around the tree trunk. When we saw the sun set it was lovely. Then we went back to the hotel.
    On the 16th we went to a mountain that we climbed up it was not that much of a climbed a car drove us most of the way. At the top of the mountain there was a statue of a Budha (an important person in a religion). After that we went to a river that had sculptures in it so I couldn’t swim in it after we went to a waterfall it was COLD, plain old cold, stupidly cold. VERY COLD. After a while I got use to it and it got fun, I caught a lot of water spiders with my own hands after that I tried to catch fish, they were only about a centimetre long but I couldn’t catch it. When we went back it was dinner and I was hungry, my mum wanted to see apsara dancers and there was a restaurant with an apsara show so we went to see it. Its slow dance and I can’t explain it its complicated after we went back to the hotel to sleep well, I tried to stay up it was a big failure.
    On the 17th we went to an aquarium well it’s a zoo and aquarium it was awesome it had tigers, otters, snakes, scorpions, sun bears, crocodiles, birds, spiders, lizards, turtles and porcupines, and that’s just the zoo sections. In the aquarium section there were arapaima, sting ray, sea horses, archer fish, mud sipper, sharks, barramundi, big cod, trevally, Mekong catfish, moray eel and a lot more don’t know their name. When we went back to the hotel we rested for a bit and then we went to the circus it is unexplainable except one part IT WAS AMAZING. It was funny it was stunning the music was great if you every go to Cambodia go to Siem Reap the circus is called the Phare circus it is a must see. After that I went to sleep.
    On the 18th we went to some different temples without a tour guide so we could go were every we want, the first temple was really fun there was passageways everywhere I ran around discovering new passageways. And then I sneakily followed my mum around for fun till they saw me when we went to anther temple, we moved around by tuktuk. We went to a lot of different temples we also saw some monkeys it was a tiring day I was exhausted at the end of the day then we took the tuktuk home.
    Today I wrote my blog sent it to my mum then they posted it on the blog platform and you read it.
    To be continued……
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