Heritage Tour

Bike tour visiting European roots. もっと詳しく

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日26
2019年7月4日木曜日 20:00
⛅ 19 °C
海抜: 2,126 フィート
クロアチア Bunić 44.6756, 15.6466644°40’32” N 15°38’48” E
Big Day: Too Much For Six Pictures
2019年7月4日, クロアチア ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
We left Dalmatia behind, following an 800 year old gravel road over the mountains that separate Dalmatia from the rest of Croatia. We saw dozens of markers honoring those who died in battle on the pass during the War of Independence. Signs beside the road warn of landmines that still exist. We dropped into a beautiful valley with farms and had goulash for lunch. We ran into Zora, who was selling her own honey and jam and local cheese beside the road, and she offered us her cute one bedroom cottage for the night, Zora was an engineer with the road department who became a refuge with two young daughters during the war. She treated us like family.もっと詳しく
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Fernando BertonAwesome scenery and how very nice of Zora.
2019/07/05返信する
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日27
2019年7月5日金曜日 20:04
⛅ 25 °C
海抜: 551 フィート
クロアチア Cerovac Vukmanicki 45.43826, 15.587345°26’18” N 15°35’14” E
2
Quiet Day - Logged Some Miles
2019年7月5日, クロアチア ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
We worked our way north on a busy highway slowly dropping into the Carpathian Basin, a huge watershed in Central Europe that drains to the Danube. Along the way we passed a national park that is known for its waterfalls. This part of Croatia has close cultural ties to both Hungary and Austria. Tommorow we go to Karlovac and Zagreb. The third photo is a fortress built by the Hungarians to defend against the Ottomans. The first photo is a typical coffee bar, where we get our coffee in the morning.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 Looks like a lovely place to hang out.
2019/07/07返信する
Kim Schwab Don't you just love the flowers on the balconies and piazzas.
2019/07/08返信する
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日28
2019年7月6日土曜日 18:28
⛅ 29 °C
海抜: 410 フィート
クロアチア Popovec Šašinovečki 45.852, 16.1429445°51’7” N 16°8’35” E
1 1
Out Of The Balkans Into Central Europe
2019年7月6日, クロアチア ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C
The Yugoslav Wars were only 25 years ago. The outskirts of Karlovac was a major battle front and remembrances are everywhere. Pushing through Karlovac, we crossed the Sava River at Zagreb, which separates the Balkan Peninsula from Central Europe. Zagreb is the largest city in Croatia with a regional population of over 1 million. We spent the afternoon touring the old city then moved to the outskirts for lodging. Susan scored again; we haven't camped out yet.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 Hope you guys are riding "skinny"! Not much room on that road for bikes. We are enjoying the pics and the narrative.
2019/07/06返信する
旅行者What a great trip you two are having! Thanks for all the commentary and photos. John
2019/07/07返信する
Kim Schwab Love castles.
2019/07/08返信する
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日29
2019年7月7日日曜日 19:40
🌧 17 °C
海抜: 489 フィート
ハンガリー Egyeduta 46.42098, 16.746946°25’16” N 16°44’49” E
1 1
"Where's Your Car?"
2019年7月7日, ハンガリー ⋅ 🌧 17 °C
Everything was going so well. We started the day riding through rolling hills and prosperous villages, We had lunch at a "fancy" restaurant, then hopped on the bikes, riding onto flat land with large-scale farms.

As we neared the Hungarian border, the rain hit. Not a drizzle; a dump. Wind, lightening, thunder, cold. Bravely, we pushed on to the old border crossing used before the toll expressway was built. The officer kindly told us that that crossing was closed and because we were on bicycles we had to detour 79 km to the crossing in Slovenia.

So, we rode 3 km over to the toll road, went backwards up an off-ramp and headed for Hungary, passing 2 lanes of cars backed up for 2 km as they waited to enter the Schengen Zone. Still storming like crazy.

The last border agent I saw winked, gave me a thumbs up, and said "Trump." These border agents greeted us differently. But, heck, what were they going to do, send us back into Croatia going the wrong direction on the toll road? So, we got into Hungary, headed for the nearest village, and it's really depressing. It' late and pouring, we checked around and found a decent hotel about 3 km away. No haggling tonight.もっと詳しく
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Linda BeirneWhat a day for you! I guess some days it's just not worth haggling. So glad after all that rain you made it to a hotel safely. Tomorrow is a new day. Safe travels 🙏
2019/07/07返信する
Kim Schwab We had the same intensity storm in Trento Dolomites at dinner. Played foosball on the patio while drinking chardonnay.
2019/07/08返信する
Kim Schwab Trento mountains are covered in vineyards and apple orchards.
2019/07/08返信する
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日30
2019年7月8日月曜日 19:00
⛅ 19 °C
海抜: 397 フィート
ハンガリー Balatonmáriafürdő 46.70195, 17.3692846°42’7” N 17°22’9” E
The Toll Road, Our Day And Food
2019年7月8日, ハンガリー ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Easy day today. Susan got her hair cut and colored and I got mine cut in Nagykanizsa. She bought new bike shorts and tights. Then we rode through mixed farmland and forest to Balaton, the largest lake in Central Europe. It's a big grape growing region and resort area. The people at our guesthouse snd the market were shocked that we are American. They see lots of Hungarians, Germans, maybe a Czech and once a Swede. But no Americans - they go to Budapest.

Regarding food, regrettably, the quality of our grub has declined steadily as we've traveled north. In Turkey, Greece and Albania we lived well on bread, salads and grilled meat, including fresh fish Quality fruit and vegetables were abundant But the food got heavier as we went north. More starches, sauces, cheese, cured meat and sausage. Hungarian food is really hearty stuff. We're shopping in the markets more but the selection is limitedもっと詳しく
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旅行者Maybe the lack of food selection is why they call it Hungary? (Sorry)
2019/07/08返信する
Linda BeirneSounds like a great day, shopping, haircut and colored. Susan, did you color your hair or did you have someone color it for you?
2019/07/08返信する
旅行者Cut and colored for about $25 USD after tip and she did a great job.
2019/07/08返信する
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日31
2019年7月9日火曜日 19:32
⛅ 21 °C
海抜: 492 フィート
ハンガリー Csittény-hegy 47.01487, 18.1608947°0’54” N 18°9’39” E
1
Lake Balaton
2019年7月9日, ハンガリー ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Balaton is a big lake, 48 miles long and up to 9 miles wide. Historically, the lake has been a retreat for the aristocracy from Budapest, only 60 miles away. Hungary came under one-party rule after WWII. The People took title to the grand homes and hotels, which then became the go-to place for Hungary's Communist elites. In the 60s and 70s the shoreline was extensively developed for tourism and to provide state-supported vacations for labor unionists and their families. It was a popular place for East and West German families to reunite annually. The lake is still a major venue for Hungarian families on summer vacation.

We rode the southern shoreline today at a leisurely pace. There is a dedicated bike route around the lake and it is really nice. The downside to the day is that we ended up in a dump. We should have kept looking. Take the good with the bad.もっと詳しく
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Linda BeirneUnfortunate that you ended up in a dump with all this beautiful scenery. Enjoy!
2019/07/09返信する
Kim Schwab Met up with a couple from Netherland in Venice area bicycling from Munich to Italy. Lovely pair.
2019/07/10返信する
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日32
2019年7月10日水曜日 18:00
⛅ 23 °C
海抜: 404 フィート
ハンガリー Gellért Hill 47.48819, 19.0565547°29’17” N 19°3’24” E
Budapest
2019年7月10日, ハンガリー ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
We finished our day in Budapest on the Pest side of the Danube. We found a great hotel in the old city. Top ten lists of beautiful cities usually include Budapest and we're all in on that. Plus, it has a young, hip feeling with a global business presence that has the economy buzzing. We're going out now to walk the city at night. We will probably take a layover day here.

Photo 2 is a traveling circus tent. Photo 3 is sunflowers and oil refinery.もっと詳しく
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日33
2019年7月11日木曜日 23:57
⛅ 14 °C
海抜: 404 フィート
ハンガリー Gellért Hill 47.48818, 19.056747°29’17” N 19°3’24” E
1
Day Off In Budapest
2019年7月11日, ハンガリー ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Budapest is a gorgeous city; it may be my favorite. The central market, built in 1896, is minutes from our hotel. The Eiffel influenced design of the building is beautiful. Inside are stalls and stalls of vendors selling fruit and vegetables, baked goods and butchered meat and sausages with urbane locals doing their daily shopping. We had morning coffee there before going to the Hungarian National Museum. Afterwards, we visited the largest synagogue in Europe and the most important church in Hungary, St. Stephen's Basilica. The design of both is incredible. We spent the rest of the day sightseeing on the Buda side of the river then wrapped up the day with a boat tour on the Danube.

Tomorrow we are back on the bikes, working our way upstream to Bratislava and Vienna.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 Beautiful pictures, Rog. Those don't look like "locals" in the foreground. Lots of tourists from outside Europe?
2019/07/11返信する
旅行者Wonder pics. Enjoying the narrated progress.
2019/07/11返信する
Kim SchwabAmazing. On my list!
2019/07/12返信する
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日34
2019年7月12日金曜日 19:33
⛅ 17 °C
海抜: 394 フィート
ハンガリー Malom-völgyi-patak 47.79455, 18.9117847°47’40” N 18°54’42” E
On The EuroVelo 6 Highway
2019年7月12日, ハンガリー ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Today we got on the EuroVelo 6, the most popular of the long distance cycling routes criss-crossing Europe. The route starts at the Atlantic in France and ends in Romania at the Black Sea, following the Danube for most of its length. It's a well developed network of bike paths. Flat, easy riding and very popular. We are seeing cycling tourists, literally, by the boatload. See the photos.

We had to take cover a couple of times today to escape the rain and managed to stay mostly dry. Stumbled across a beautifully maintained old school hotel about 10 miles from Slovakia. The hotel is run by a charming older couple. He is serving and she is cooking.もっと詳しく
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Linda BeirneAnother day of fun and great pictures, thanks!! Hey Roger, we need to see a picture of you occasionally.
2019/07/12返信する
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日35
2019年7月13日土曜日 20:11
🌧 19 °C
海抜: 367 フィート
スロバキア Komarno Port 47.75668, 18.1255247°45’24” N 18°7’32” E
A Leisurely Day
2019年7月13日, スロバキア ⋅ 🌧 19 °C
We got a slow start this morning, lingering over breakfast at the hotel. We rode a few miles, then stopped for espresso and waited for the ferry to take us across the river. Back on the bikes, we rode into Esztergom and were wowed by the basilica. Turns out Esztergom was the capitol of Hungary from the 10th to the mid-13th century, when it was moved to Buda. Esztergom has the largest church in Hungary, which we explored with a visit to the cupola. The city was also important beacause it marked the northwestern reach of the Ottomans.

In the afternoon, we crossed over the river to Slovakia. We left the crowds behind and rode through flat farmland and modest rural villages to Komarno, a working port city on the Danube. The local grocery store is first class and the hotel we settled on is new, modern and very nice. It has been raining cats and dogs since we got into our room.もっと詳しく
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Kim SchwabLook at those clouds. Very colorful pictures. Glad you are stopping to enjoy the culture.
2019/07/13返信する
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日36
2019年7月14日日曜日 18:43
⛅ 20 °C
海抜: 413 フィート
スロバキア Bratislava 48.14012, 17.1057848°8’24” N 17°6’21” E
In Bratislava
2019年7月14日, スロバキア ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
We rode through flat and sparsely populated farmlard into Bratislava. We left the tourists and spoken english behind on the Hungarian side of the river where, we discovered, the historic towns and sites are. And, for good reason. The Danube was the northern boundary of the Roman Empire in the Carpatian Basin and they built a network of castles, forts and outposts to defend the frontier and protect trade from the barbarians across the river. That network has grown through the centuries to what we see today. The farmland was good riding but looked a lot like Dixon, Davis and Woodland.

We found the crowds again in Bratislava. We are staying in a Radisson and the place is packed. Lots of english speaking tourist and LOTS of bike tourists. See the photo of the bikes in the hotel lobby. Those are guests' bikes, not the hotel's. Most are organized tours. Our bikes are in our room, which is very nice with a river view. Now, we are going out to walk the town.

The city is slammed with tourists. The US Embassy is 150 yards from our hotel's front entrance.もっと詳しく
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Linda BeirneLooking like another great day for you two. Have fun exploring. Safe travels 🙏
2019/07/14返信する
Linda BeirneEarlier I noticed you were hanging out in a parking lot, glad you found a place to stay.
2019/07/14返信する
旅行者We weighed in on the hotel scale and woohoo!
2019/07/15返信する
旅行者We rode from Vienna to Budapest and spent a couple of nights in this city. Did you eat at the top of the satellite
2019/07/24返信する
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日37
2019年7月15日月曜日 18:33
⛅ 24 °C
海抜: 600 フィート
オーストリア Bahnhof Wien Oper 48.20336, 16.3711448°12’12” N 16°22’16” E
1
Crossing Borders Is A Breeze
2019年7月15日, オーストリア ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
We rolled into Austria and everything seemed to get a little nicer. The farms are prettier and the villages are well-kempt. Coming into Vienna, we went the length of a large urban park that took us into the city center. Vienna is grand by all measures. It was the center of power for the Habsburgs and Austro-Hungarians, and is consistently named as the most livable city in the world. The city is simply overwhelming. There is nothing I can say here.もっと詳しく
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Linda BeirneThat was one of my favorite places when I went 44 years ago. It was such a beautiful place.
2019/07/15返信する
Kim Schwab Spectacular.
2019/07/15返信する
Kim SchwabBut is it expensive? I am always searching for a place to stay for a month at a time.
2019/07/15返信する
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日38
2019年7月16日火曜日 21:31
🌙 20 °C
海抜: 502 フィート
チェコ共和国 Poštorná 48.747, 16.8713948°44’49” N 16°52’17” E
1
A Day Bike Riders Dream Of
2019年7月16日, チェコ共和国 ⋅ 🌙 20 °C
The EuroVelo 9 route out of Vienna into the Czech Republic is a great ride. The landscape is beautiful, the trail is good and the weather was perfect. Austrian villages are right out of a storybook.

We came into the Czech Republic late in the day. We got an adequate place for a great price. Schnitzel dinner for two with cake and ice cream and a beer came in under $16 USD. I think we are back on budget.

Look closely at the 4th pic - there's something for everyone.もっと詳しく
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Kim Schwab Lovely trail!
2019/07/16返信する
Linda BeirneAbsolutely beautiful!
2019/07/16返信する
旅行者Wow! What a beautiful country!
2019/07/18返信する
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日39
2019年7月17日水曜日 21:14
⛅ 22 °C
海抜: 604 フィート
チェコ共和国 [Žabčice] church t.49.01102, 16.6024249°0’40” N 16°36’9” E
Another Beautiful Day
2019年7月17日, チェコ共和国 ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
The first half of the day we followed the Czech/Austrian border before turning north towards Brno. The Czechs aren't as fastidious as the Austrians, so their side is a little less perfect, but it's storybook nonetheless. This is some of the nicest riding I've ever done. Also, the food has improved steadily since leaving Hungary so we are eating much better.

The second photo is of a mom and her 5 year old, which proves that even a 5 year old can do this. The fifth photo is a grim reminder of the fence that was built to keep people in. It is a memorial to the 53 people that were killed trying to cross into Austria in this area from the Czechslovak Socialist Republic. The signage recognizes Ronald Reagan for his stand against that particular form of tyranny.もっと詳しく
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Jim DoddsHi: Hope you are riding on the Elbe River from Prague to Berlin. I have always wanted to do that ride. I have ridden from Prague to Krakow Poland. Your photos and narrative are great. Keep pedaling for us old cyclists. Jim Dodds
2019/07/17返信する
Linda BeirneAnother day enjoying your adventures. The food looks yummy. Enjoy and safe travels 🙏
2019/07/17返信する
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日40
2019年7月18日木曜日 20:23
☀️ 20 °C
海抜: 912 フィート
チェコ共和国 Plumlov 49.46282, 16.9965249°27’46” N 16°59’47” E
1
A Quiet Day With Surprises
2019年7月18日, チェコ共和国 ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
In the morning, we worked our way into Brno, the second largest city in the Czech Republic with a population of about 400,00. The city looks worn out and tired but it has a beautiful cathedral and castle, both dating back to the 14th century. The castle was used during the Austro-Hungarian period as a prison for the worst-of-the worst. In took us half the day to get through Brno.

With Brno behind us we had a nice restaurant lunch, got back on the EuroVelo 9, and rolled into the Moravian Karst Nature Reserve, a rugged woodland with caves, Neanderthal carvings and scenic gorges. We come out into rolling farmland, behind on our miles and late in the day. We bucked up to pound out the remaining miles, slogged up a couple of 15% grades, then hit a 6 mile downhill run on perfect pavement, ending at the front door of our pension. The is a God and today He took care of us.もっと詳しく
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Linda BeirneDad is watching over the both of you! Another day of beautiful pictures and great stories. Safe travels 🙏
2019/07/18返信する
Kim Schwab Lovely. Been watching Le Tour de France. Beautiful scenes of countryside.
2019/07/18返信する
旅行者The bike path arrow points to Krakow, Poland.
2019/07/20返信する
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日41
2019年7月19日金曜日 18:16
☁️ 23 °C
海抜: 850 フィート
チェコ共和国 Loštice 49.74538, 16.927849°44’43” N 16°55’40” E
Went Easy Today
2019年7月19日, チェコ共和国 ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
This morning we stumbled across a magnificent baroque castle in small village, then worked our way into Olomouc, a city of about 450,00. Getting into the city wasn't too bad because of the good network of bike paths. We found Olomouc to be nicer than Brno, but we didn't take many photos because it starting raining. There is a pic of the cathedral dating back to the 13th century.

The rain let up and we moved on to a cute village, taking a room in the hotel on the town square. The hotel dining room turned out to be very good. As we we eating the rain came back; it's supposed to storm through the night.

Tomorrow we go to the villages that my paternal grandparents came from.もっと詳しく
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Linda BeirneNice to see you had a easy day and enjoying the sites. Have fun!
2019/07/19返信する
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日42
2019年7月20日土曜日 23:00
⛅ 22 °C
海抜: 856 フィート
チェコ共和国 Dobříkov 49.99979, 16.1415649°59’59” N 16°8’30” E
New Friends In The Czech Republic
2019年7月20日, チェコ共和国 ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
We had a big day. We started with a gentle 1000 ft climb to 1800 ft elevation where we crossed the European Divide, going from the Danube to the Elbe drainage basins. If I hadn't been looking for it I wouldn't have known. It seemed as if it was just another hill.

Then we went into the town of Lanskroun, pop, 10,000, Lanskroun is identified as the place of origin of my paternal grandmother on the ship's manifest when she crossed to America. We had lunch and looked around then rode 5 miles to the village of Dolni Cermna, the birthplace of my paternal grandfather and found the property he grew up on.

Late in the day we met Pavel Pinkas who was laying stone on his property. Pavel is an IT consultant who built a beautiful home with impeccably landscaping. Pavel and his wife, Renata, generously offered to put us up for the night. They have a daughter, Anna, who is 12 and a son, PavelI, who is 21 and studying IT at a university. We had dinner with the Pinkas family and had thoroughly enjoyed the evening. Much thanks to the Pinkas. Their generosity is greatly appreciated.もっと詳しく
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Linda BeirneHow cool is that!! What a wonderful experience. You both are looking good.
2019/07/21返信する
Kim SchwabHow special for you to be in your country of origin. Love Susan's new color.
2019/07/21返信する
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日43
2019年7月21日日曜日 20:31
⛅ 18 °C
海抜: 1,660 フィート
チェコ共和国 Ústupky 49.8199, 15.6567349°49’12” N 15°39’24” E
Poppies
2019年7月21日, チェコ共和国 ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
We followed Pavel's suggestion and detoured off-route to visit two walled cities dating back to the 13th century: Litomysl and Policka. It was worth the detour and to our eyes the two cities were equally impressive. Only later did we learn that Litomysl's 16th century renaissance castle complex is a World Heritage site.

Otherwise, we had great riding today through hilly farmland and national forest. Since entering the Czech Republic we've seen fields of a long-stemmed plant that has a bulb on top and a flower that looks like a poppy. We've jokingly called it opium. Susan decided to investigate and broke a bulb open. She found poppyseeds; the crop is a breadseed poppy. We did a little research and learned that opium poppies and breadseed poppies are the same species, but there are varietal differences. Who would of guessed?もっと詳しく
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Kim SchwabTurkey raises poppies for opium. US is biggest market.
2019/07/21返信する
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日44
2019年7月22日月曜日 18:21
⛅ 26 °C
海抜: 1,411 フィート
チェコ共和国 Vyžlovka 49.98677, 14.7878949°59’12” N 14°47’16” E
On The Approach To Prague
2019年7月22日, チェコ共和国 ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
Not much to say today. We spent most of the day on busy two lane highway on the approach to Prague. We stopped 15 miles short to avoid getting into the fourth most visited city in Europe late in the day.

We've had wonderful riding across the Czech Republic. The countryside is gorgeous and each town has it's old center with a square and cathedral. The countryside is dotted with castles. The biggest difficulty we have is that we can't capture what we see on a phone camera. To do so properly requires a DSLR with multiple lenses, which just isn't practical bike touring.

No reason to waste money on protein powder in the Czech Republic when you can get a roasted pork knee dinner for about $8.50 USD.もっと詳しく
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Linda BeirneAnother wowzer day for you. The pictures are absolutely gorgeous! Stay safe!!
2019/07/22返信する
旅行者Who knew pigs have knees? I'm heading for Raley's right now.
2019/07/22返信する
Kim SchwabReminds me of ham hock and beans my mum used to make.
2019/07/22返信する
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日45
2019年7月23日火曜日 13:30
☀️ 30 °C
海抜: 725 フィート
チェコ共和国 St. Wenceslas statue 50.07989, 14.4303250°4’48” N 14°25’49” E
Prague
2019年7月23日, チェコ共和国 ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
Oh Boy, was it a hassle getting into Prague. We had to slowly wind our way through the suburbs. The roads were unfriendly as were the drivers. Flustered and fatigued, we got to the old city and grabbed a room with a view of the Czech Republic National Museum. (Photo 1)

Prague is another city that makes the top ten most beautiful cities in the world list. It is stunning but it is also a tourist trap - big league. Prague begs the question: Do you want old world charm with a Disneyland experience or can you settle for Disneyland's fantasy version of the old world?

Call us country mice but we'll go with the beauty and charm of the countryside and villages away from the mob scene in Prague.

It has been a nice change of pace to get a good hotel and take the better part of a day off.もっと詳しく
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Kim SchwabAsk the inn keeper when the crowds leave. Sept. or October?
2019/07/23返信する
旅行者I asked and was told that the slow months are January and February but not to come then. There is a Reuters article today about tourist hotspots that are victims of their succes.
2019/07/23返信する
Linda BeirneWow! All the people reminded me of Venice. It's amazing what a difference 30 or 40 years make. Safe travels 🙏
2019/07/23返信する
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日46
2019年7月24日水曜日 20:51
☀️ 29 °C
海抜: 633 フィート
チェコ共和国 Roudnice nad Labem 50.42365, 14.2605350°25’25” N 14°15’38” E
An Easy Day On The Bike Path
2019年7月24日, チェコ共和国 ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
We followed a really nice bike path that follows the Vltava River out of Prague. After a missed turn and a detour on a busy road we crossed the Elbe and got back on the bike path below the confluence of the Vltava and Elbe. There is another heatwave in Europe but we are handling it well. There is a lot of bicycle touring traffic now and we see riders that are visibly heat-stressed. We stopped 45 miles short of the German border at a town of 13,000. It too has a castle and palace but its heyday is past. It reminds me of the once-grand towns that I've ridden through in the Midwest and Northeast.

Photos: 1) slalom course for kayakers with man-made rapids; 2) hops; 3-5) rowing complex that is venue for European and World championship events; 6) our hotel.もっと詳しく
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Kim SchwabLe tour de France has not mentioned the heat in France. They are getting into the Alps today.
2019/07/24返信する
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日47
2019年7月25日木曜日 18:18
⛅ 34 °C
海抜: 367 フィート
ドイツ Lilienstein 50.92581, 14.0939150°55’33” N 14°5’38” E
Out Of Central Europe Into Germany
2019年7月25日, ドイツ ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C
We continued following a well developed network of bike paths along the Elbe out of the Czech Republic. The terrain was mountainous but since we followed the river, our trail stayed flat. We went through a series of towns and villages similar to the town we stayed in last night - once prosperous but now gritty. We passed many abandoned factory buildings and the people seem worn out. We met a man who turned out to be an environmental scientist. I asked him what keeps the area going. He said nothing today. The region had been a hub from the mid-19th century on for German industrial chemical manufacturing of dyes following the discover of analine, but that industry has died. The area got a double whammy because it was largely German and was depopulated after WWII due to resettlement. You may be bored by all this but I found it fascinating. FYI, Dan Fagin's book Tom's River covers the analine side of this story and the book is a great read.

We're in Germany and prices seem to have doubled. We opted for a site in a campground alongside the river. For the first time, after riding almost 2,500 miles, we broke out the tent and sleeping bags. But ... we packed up and moved on. There's more to this story but you will have to ask Susan. To keep it suspenseful I will tell you that a police report was filed. We found another place to camp and the day ended well.

Photos: 1) automated bike parking structure at train station; 4) Czech/German border; 5) rock climbing structure next to bike path.もっと詳しく
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Linda BeirneIs camping really worth it? Glad it ended well!
2019/07/26返信する
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日48
2019年7月26日金曜日 20:30
☀️ 27 °C
海抜: 371 フィート
ドイツ Riesa 51.30309, 13.3048851°18’11” N 13°18’18” E
"You Are In Saxony"
2019年7月26日, ドイツ ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
Yesterday, lathering up it the women's shower, Susan looked down and saw a hand holding a cell phone poked under the stall door taking pictures of her. A commotion ensued and the police were called. Two other campers came to me and apologetically explained per the statement in the caption. We pulled stakes and moved on to something much nicer.

This morning we were happy to discover that we left the blight up river behind and we went through a charming resort area. We found a nice place for breakfast that overlook a quaint village where movie scenes are being filmed. Back on the trail we were passed by a couple of dozen buck-naked old men on bicycles coming from the opposite direction. Corpulent guys about to give birth to twins, skinny guys with saggy skin and pot bellies, it was revolting.

We rode on to Dresden, the capitol of Saxony. Dresden was a jewel of a city before WWII that was leveled by Allied bombers. It has since been rebuilt and really is beautiful. But ... more people pulling luggage on wheels, tour groups, high priced bad food and shops selling the same luxury and not-so-luxury goods that you can find anywhere in the world. After Desden we've decided to skip Leipzig altogether, which would require a detour and cost us at least a day.

We were happy to get back on the trail, leaving the tourist traffic behind. The terrain has become pancake-flat and we moved along quickly through farmland and past villages following the river trail. Tonight's lodging was quite reasonable and we had a decent sitdown dinner in a comfortable restaurant.

As far a Saxony is concerned, I'm trying to keep an open mind. I don't want to form opinions on the country of my birth based on our encounters in one German state. But patience is not one of my virtues.もっと詳しく
Kim SchwabLife is full of unexpected surprises, but that was weird Susan. Great shots of the colorful villages.
2019/07/26返信する
旅行者Saxons have a reputation for being insular and for their dislike of outsiders. All I can say is that we can't give a positive recommendation about their treatment towards us.
2019/07/27返信する
Fernando BertonThe last person I would mess with is Susan!!!
2019/07/27返信する
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日49
2019年7月27日土曜日 18:52
⛅ 28 °C
海抜: 253 フィート
ドイツ Klöden 51.7602, 12.8282451°45’37” N 12°49’42” E
1
Germany Is Growing On Us
2019年7月27日, ドイツ ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C
This morning we left behind the nondescript town of Riesa and continued our pancake-flat ride following the Elbe. The was a stiff 20 mph wind from the right but it wasn't troublesome and the miles ticked off. We could have been in the Delta.

Then we came into an absolute gem of a town, Torgau. Torgau has a beautiful castle with the first Protestant church in Germany consecrated by the man himself, Martin Luther, in 1544. Torgau is also the place were US and Soviet forces first met during WWII. We spent several hours in Torgau and could have stayed longer. Truly a beautiful town without hordes of tourists. Keep the secret to yourself.

After Torgau the riding got more interesting. We passed through mixed woodland and farmland in gentle hills. Then we crossed over the river by ferry and came upon a very nice pension. The rooms were taken but we were offered a beautiful spot to camp on a lawn area next to the clay tennis courts. We soon learned that one of the owner's daughters played tennis for the Dons at USF.

Saxony was weird to the end. Leaving Saxony we saw the Canadian flag and the Stars and Bars flying side-by-side on someone's property. I can't imagine there is a rational explanation. Photo 5.

The castle, which was built on a hill, has a moat. Bears were put in the moat instead of water. Photo 4. The bike trail along the Elbe has covered picnic tables that are a good place to stop for a break. Photo 6.もっと詳しく
Kim Schwab Lucky bears.
2019/07/27返信する
旅行者Could there be a Justin Trudeau/Jefferson Davis connection?
2019/07/28返信する
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日50
2019年7月28日日曜日 19:46
☁️ 28 °C
海抜: 177 フィート
ドイツ Calbe 51.90286, 11.783351°54’10” N 11°46’60” E
Wittenberg
2019年7月28日, ドイツ ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
In 1517 Martin Luther posted his 95 Theses on the door of the cathedral in Wittenberg and sparked one of the greatest revolutions in human history - the Reformation. A Roman Catholic priest and theologian, he challenged the orthodoxy of his day.

Moving down river we went into Dessau and visited Bauhaus. Bauhaus is a famous German art school that Susan studied in college. Apparently everybody knows about this place but me.

Tiring of the bikeway along the Elbe, we broke off into the countryside to get over to EuroVelo 13 which follows the path of the Iron Curtain. For the night we found good lodging in a farmhouse with good food. Susan loves the place, I like the price - $30 euros.

Photos: 1) the "new" cathedral door, the original burned; 2) cathedral; 4) Bauhaus; 5) in a village that didn't get the memo; 6) view from our digs for the night.もっと詳しく
Jim DoddsRode by your house yesterday. All is watered and well.
2019/07/29返信する
旅行者Thanks Jim. We appreciate your ride bys.
2019/07/29返信する
旅行者Bauhaus was the beginning of modernism. I
2019/08/02返信する
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