Day 23 on the Camino

Well that was a fun ~33km today, who said the rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain? Not today.
As we set off from Vilei this morning, at a leisurely 7:30 we had cloud cover but no rain. It had been pouring all night, but broke for sun rise.
We decided to walk before breakfast and at around 6km through rural fields and tree lined paths we came across a breakfast spot. Perfectly times for a couple of reasons, it was spitting with ran and also they were just open. We managed to string out a croissant as two coffees each for an hour or so, as we watched the rain lash down. Many first time pilgrims, joining the Camino from Sarria trudged past with their new waterproofs and ponchos.
The rain eased enough for us to get underway - rain coats on and backpack covers too. We walked through oak Forrest’s and arable land, undulating all the way. Today’s chorus of song from the birds was also joined by a field of frogs croaking away. We were motoring away to lift the average pace up, our aches and pains being dulled by modern medicine.
Just before Portomarín we came across a Veggie bar - something we had to stop for, as Tracey had suffered a poor offering the night before The food in Spain is definitely orientated to the meat eater. But this was an oasis for all. The veggie burgers 🍔 were to die for and a smoothie to was it all down. The rain had eased, and so waterproofs came off, long sleeves packed away and fuelled we were ready for the last 15km.
We dropped steeply to the bridge across the river to Portomarín and suffered the long haul up the other side. The path for a change followed a road up (a reminder of a week back). Modern medicine was wearing off with 6km to go (or as I had said 5 point something kilometres... it was actually 6.1, but I didn’t want to demoralise the troops).
Again today was a walk through small farm villages, cows, pigs and sheep; and the view of the final village with our lodgings for the night was welcome.
Normal ritual happened, and rewarded with a big beer. Rest and a pilgrim dinner, only one more thing to do (after finishing the wine bottle) - bed. Earlier again!
Tomorrow a shorter day, only 27km and half the lost stage back. Pulpo...Read more