Stunning Chiang Rai

If there's just one attraction you HAVE to see in Chiang Rai, it's the White Temple, Wat Rong Khun.

On our previous visit we were unfortunate with the weather and Willi was determined he was going to get to film the temple in sunshine this year. We got up quite early and it paid off. There was hardly a cloud in the sky!

Completed at the end of the last century, it was badly damaged by an earthquake in 2014, but consequently restored and rebuilt by the original artist and architect Chalermchai Kositpipat.

The main temple is all in white with mirror mosaic and in the sunshine the result is a filigree, shimmering fairytale building which in its eccentricity, at least, reminds one of Gaudì. There are also grey elements, like the sea of outstretched hands outside the ubosot, and silver and gold. The public toilets are designed like a magnificent temple, all in gold. There is also a natural section in the form of a waterfall set in rock and a Buddha in antique style with a backdrop of plants and trees. And there is a temple dedicated to Ganesha.

It was difficult for us to tear ourselves away from the White Temple, but we wanted to take advantage of the light for the Hilltribe Village just north of the city and left just after eleven. There was just one tourist vehicle in the parking space and when we entered the village, we could understand why.

Here the lack of tourism since Covid has had disastrous effects. The village seems deserted and the number of local people here depleted by about two thirds, I would think.

We were "greeted" by people from the Akha tribe, who put on a fairly pathetic show for us, consisting of about 5 sullen old women in their complicated dress and headdresses and three men, who turned up one after another to beat out a rhythm with their percussion instruments. Instead of a smile, they grunted among themselves. A sign saying " Photo 50 Baht" put us off doing anything of the sort. We had just paid 300 Baht each for entrance fees!

There was noone to be seen in the Yao village and nobody in the Lahu section. The Yawans were also not at home. Instead there were badly broken wooden shacks and very many skinny chickens. But in the Karen village, around ten ladies were weaving half-heartedly and/or looking after their young children. The Karen ladies are gentle people and did not mind having their photos taken. I recognised some of them from 9 years ago and it was frustrating not to be able to communicate with them and tell them that. We gave a small donation.

I must admit we were a more than a little sad when we left the village. But our spirits were raised when we entered the Black House Museum. This is another eccentric project. It can be best described as a motley collection of artefacts, religious artefacts, farm implements, animal skins and bones, unusual North Thai buildings and works of all kinds by the artist Thawan Duchanee.

The outside museum attracts both locals and "farangs" and was full of visitors. We treated ourselves to a coconut in my case and a fruit smoothie for Willi and sat drinking them in a barn full of baskets watching the people come and go.

Today we had time to relax by the pool after being driven away from the swing seat on our small terrace by the mosquitos. What a lovely way to reflect on our busy day!Read more