• Leaving

    27 Juli 2018, Jepang ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    That sickening moment when you wake up from a nap halfway through the 90 minute ride to the airport to the realization that you have left the passports in the hotel room safe.

    One $500 3 hour cab ride later and we are boarding. It will be good to come home.Baca selengkapnya

  • Dinner in Ebisu

    25 Juli 2018, Jepang ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    This is the third time this trip we have wandered into the Ebisu neighborhood from the Westin and found great food. Tonight it was a tiny bar with perfectly grilled rare wagyu beef. One of our most expensive meals so far (food is cheap here) but so insanely good.Baca selengkapnya

  • Edo Tokyo Museum

    25 Juli 2018, Jepang ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Very cool museum with incredibly detailed models of what Tokyo was like 400 years ago. There must have been 10 huge models, they were amazing and so helpful. Great English audio guide, totally cool building, learned a ton.Baca selengkapnya

  • Suginami Animation Museum & Monster Cafe

    25 Juli 2018, Jepang ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Very cool museum about 45 minutes from anything else, which was kind of a pain. But it was worth it, there were a lot of great exhibits about how to make anime including some hands-on equipment.

    Chris and I both found shows featured in the exhibits we watched after school in the late 70's/early 80's that were Japanese anime. Chris identified that Battle of the Planets = Gatchaman and I figured out the Star Blazers = Battleship Yamato I, II & III. And of course Speed Racer is anime from the same period.

    We took the train back into the center of town to try Monster Cafe in Harajuku. So very Japanese.
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  • Daitoku-ji Temple

    23 Juli 2018, Jepang ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    We have been surrounded by masses of people all day, and it's been sweltering. But we saw some really, really great stuff so we weren't really annoyed.

    Then we get to this complex of many small zen temples and we are nearly alone...just a handful of people around. The gardens are so stunning and the complex so peaceful and ancient that everyone is whispering. What an amazing way to end the day.Baca selengkapnya

  • Daimaru department store food court

    22 Juli 2018, Jepang ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    After lunch we took a taxi to the Daimaru department store pretty much exclusively to see the food department. It was fantastic, with loads of prepared foods, high end grocery items and quite a few fancy French and Japanese candy/pastry shops.

    Tired, we made our way back to the hotel for a swim in the pool and a rest before dinner.
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  • Kyoto - Fushimi-Inari-Taisha Shrine

    22 Juli 2018, Jepang ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    Headed out today anticipating another long walk. This shrine is one of the ones we were most excited about. The walk up the forested mountain is shaded by a series of 10,000 orange tori gates. At various points on the trail there are openings for cemeteries and temples, and we were lucky to see a few Shinto ceremonies in progress while we were climbing.

    Each tori gate is donated, with the donor's name and date carved on the back of the gate. The higher up you go, the more expensive the donation required. The shrine is dedicated to financial success, apparently. No, really...it is! It's focused on rice and foxes somehow.

    It took about 2 hours up and back...it was a lot of stairs. After we found another ramen place for lunch. We have eaten so many noodles here even Alex is starting to get tired of them!
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  • Gion - Okonomiyaki & Maiko

    21 Juli 2018, Jepang ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    After a short rest we took the Kyoto subway to the Gion district, where after a few false starts (restaurants are busy and tiny) we wound up at an okonomiyaki/teppanyaki restaurant that was great. Of course, part of the fun was watching all the Barrett boys try to eat dinner parked on a cushion on the floor. (OK, that was mostly enjoyable by me.) Also I had never tried beef tendon before, it's totally delicious. Tender and tasty.

    After dinner we walked around this historic district, which has been beautifully preserved and is lighted with lanterns at night. The weather cooperated, it cools off here at night. The district is very lively with lots of clubs and restaurants, lots of guys in suits (bouncers I assume) manning the doors.

    We saw 3 maiko (apprentice geisha) and I created a lot of angst with my crew by photographing one, which is supposedly a big faux pas. They are very easy to spot, their faces are extraordinarily white and their hairstyle is intricate. I justified by selfishness by pointing out that others were doing the same, but my family was not buying it. What can I say, they're right.
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  • Kyoto - Southern Higashiyama

    21 Juli 2018, Jepang ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    After dropping our bags at the hotel, we headed out to explore. A taxi dropped us off to walk up the Gojo-zaka road to the Kiyomizu-dera Temple. Along the way we saw tons of Japanese tourists tricked out in kimono with little umbrellas and wooden-soled slippers (the men as well.) They all clack-clack their way around the hilly streets taking tiny steps because the outfits are restrictive and the slippers have no grip. But I was so grateful they were willing to suffer for fashion, because they all looked great, the kimono are stunning!

    The temple is touristy and being renovated, but it's still incredibly beautiful and impressive. We walked through the Tainai-Meguri, which is a little pitch black walkway under one of the buildings in the temple - you follow the rope along the wall until you get to the only illuminated thing there, a large stone with Kanji carved in it. One touch of the stone gives you one wish.

    After that we headed down Matsubara-dori street to Sannen-zaka hill to the Ninnen-zaka area, where we had a late lunch at a little out of the way place.

    After lunch we went to the Maruyama-koen Park and on in to the Chion-in Temple. We finished up at the Shoren-in Temple and its beautiful gardens before walking back to the hotel to clean up and rest.
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  • Grand Sumo in Nagoya

    20 Juli 2018, Jepang ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    After the castle we made our way over to the Dolphin Stadium for the quarterly Sumo competition. It goes on all day for two weeks, we caught it on day 13. The matches are in order of rank, from the lowest ones in the morning to the highest at the end of the day, and the higher ranked wrestlers are on the last few days.

    We found our seats in the last row (these sell out as soon as they go on sale) and we were fortunate to have a very sweet retired English teacher seated next to us. She told us it was her first tournament as well, and that she had won her ticket in the newspaper. She still practices English when she can, and for fun she is learning German, French and Russian. She nornally watches the matches on TV, and sure enough there was a big bank of cameras and a press box to our left.

    The matches last about 5 minutes, about 10 seconds of which is actual wrestling. At the beginning of each match the wrestlers' names are sung out by a man in a kimono, then men with flags of companies awarding prizes walk around the ring. The more flags there are, the more prestigious the match. Then there is a lot of stretching and salt throwing (to purify the ring) and squatting as though they are ready to start and then getting back up again. The whole thing requires a lot of patience from the audience, which the Japanese seem to have in abundance.

    Once they actually start, this is a huge burst of energy followed immediately by a massive collision, which is incredibly exciting to watch. I like it a lot better than I thought I would! They tangle and push each other until one of them steps out of the ring or puts something other than a foot on the floor.

    The Japanese politely call out the name of the wrestler to cheer for them, and clap loudly at the end of each match. We stayed for about 2 hours and felt like we saw plenty.
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  • Nagoya castle

    20 Juli 2018, Jepang ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    We had a quiet final morning in Tsumago with a walk in town after breakfast, then took the train to Nagoya.

    Nagoya Castle was badly damaged in WWII and is being restored, so it's not open. But a 17th century palace that was in the castle grounds has been restored, and it's absolutely beautiful.Baca selengkapnya

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