• 30. Tanzania - Arrival

    9. juni 2023, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Another 4:30 AM departure brought us to the Malawi / Tanzania border by 7, where we lost 2 hours due to a "systems down" situation that had the immigration officials processing visas on paper. (Craig, ever the prepared boy scout, made sure we had obtained our visas in advance, but we had to wait for others).

    Heading into the highlands after that, we noticed an immediate improvement in the standard of living. Honestly, Malawi was a bit of a bust for us. Here in Tanzania, homes were larger, looked maintained, and we could see power lines connected to some of them. Some had glass windows. The area was lush with vegetation and agriculture, including bananas, tea, coffee, & pineapple.

    Along the way, we encountered a grouping of baobab trees. The baobab is one of the most iconic and majestic trees in Africa, growing to up to 30 meters tall with a trunk diameter of over 10 meters. It can live literally for thousands of years. We stopped to take a few pix.

    As we continued heading across Tanzania towards Dar es Salaam & the eastern coastline, traffic became increasingly congested. Dar houses a major cargo port which is accompanied by an influx of trucks. So many trucks!
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  • 29. Malawi: Chitimba Beach

    8. juni 2023, Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    We travelled north towards Tanzania, stopping at another Malawi beach-based campsite in Chitimba. Our room had no power or water, and the campsite had no wifi. There was nothing happening at the beach other than locals trying to sell their wares (which the guides recommended we avoid), so we kept busy with a 3.5 hour hike up the local mountain to see the falls, followed by a motorcycle ride up to the David Livingstone Museum at the top of the mountain, then back down to our campsite.

    The hike, which was more for the exercise than anything else, felt good, but the motorcycle ride was pure torture. The road back to town was really no road at all. We spent the better part of an hour poised uncomfortably behind our drivers, clutching a bar behind us for balance, and holding on for dear life as our drivers navigated the path of rocks, sand, pothole-laden dirt. The bone-jarring roads we had previously experienced in the truck were nothing compared to the beating our bodies took on this ride. When we finally got back, I couldn't uncurl my hand from the death-grip I'd been keeping on the bike. I stumbled to the room, and grabbed 3 advil and an hour's nap to try to recover.

    Welcome to Africa Karen!
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  • 28. Malawi: Kande Beach - Village Walk

    6. juni 2023, Malawi ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    We had a grueling 14 hour day in the truck yesterday, encountering bone-jarring brain-rattling roads that occasionally tossed us out of our seats. The border crossing to Malawi took an hour, but was a welcome respite to stretch our legs. Having departed our previous campsite at 4:30A, we arrived at Kande Beach on Lake Malawi at 6:40P, in the dark. Tough travel day for sure.

    The next day we opted into a guided village walk. We had passed by many such communities on the road, and had been wondering what village life was like.

    We also got exposed to how economically important tourism is to the communities here, and how they have managed to maximize monetization of this. We visited a school (which solicited and received a donation), and a clinic (which solicited and received a donation). As we set off on our tour, our tour guide brought along 3 friends to walk with each of the 3 of us on the tour as we headed to the village. The guide got a tip. Each of the friends expected a tip. Upon arriving back, just outside of our camp, the 3 friends steered us towards their friends, each of whom had various trinkets to sell to us. Although initially a bit offended by the manipulation, every dollar spent means so much more to them than it does to us, and goes a long way towards improving the lives of the villagers.
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  • 27. Zambia - South Luangwa Nat'l Park

    4. juni 2023, Zambia ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    South Luangwa National Park in eastern Zambia covers more than 9K sq km, and because of the water source provided by the Luangwa River and its many lagoons, has one of the most intense concentrations of wildlife in Africa.

    We engaged in a evening game drive while there. I was wondering how this would work, thinking that the animals would bolt if a flashlight was beamed down upon them, but that's not the case. They look up, but seem somewhat unaffected otherwise.

    Here we spotted the coveted leopard, and watched a narrow miss as it stalked some impala. We also went up close and personal with a lioness and her cubs. Super cute.
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  • 25. Zambia: Wildlife Camp, Luangwa River

    4. juni 2023, Malawi ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Our 13 hour trip led us to Wildlife Camp, a peaceful, remote location where animals are free to roam through the campsite. We are poised on the Luangwa River, so the location has the benefit of attracting animals looking for water.

    What a treat this morning. We got up at 6:30 and looked out our window to see a herd of hippos active in the water. We drew our camp chairs to the river's edge, and spent an hour watching them move about before heading to our campsite for breakfast. (This is what is referred to as African TV.)

    I'm realizing that the very large animals like elephants and hippos move quite slowly. When we watched the elephants queue up for water at Elephant Sands, they would take a few steps forward, wait 10 minutes, then jockey for a better position, wait another 10 minutes, then take another step forward. Frustrating if you're trying to get a video and move on, but a surprisingly pleasant way to pass the time if you have it. I think the elephants and hippos might be my favorites.
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  • 23. Zambia: Livingstone - Victoria Falls

    31. maj 2023, Zambia ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Victoria Falls, aka Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, aka "Thundering Smoke", is located on the border of Zambia & Zimbabwe and is one of the world's largest waterfalls, with a width of 1,708 m (5,604 ft). While it is neither the highest nor the widest waterfall in the world, the Victoria Falls is classified the largest, based on its combined width of 1,708 metres (5,604 ft)[7] and height of 108 metres (354 ft),[8] resulting in the world's largest sheet of falling water.

    We viewed the falls from the Zambia side, then popped over to Zimbabwe via the Victoria Falls Bridge.
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  • 19. Botswana: Nata - Elephant Sands 2

    28. maj 2023, Zambia ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    More elephants...

  • 18.Botswana: Nata - Elephant Sands Lodge

    28. maj 2023, Zambia ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Elephant Sands Lodge is described as a magical place to stay, and the reality does not disappoint. The owners have created an elephant watering hole viewing station that allows visitors to be as close as 5 feet to the elephants. At one point, I thought one of them was going to reach over and pat my head with his trunk.

    We sat, mesmerized, for hours.
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  • 17. Botswana - Okavango Delta

    27. maj 2023, Botswana ⋅ 🌙 72 °F

    We crossed the border from Namibia to Botswana without fanfare, and found our way to the Okavango Delta. This delta earned the title of UNESCO World Heritage Site because it is one of the few interior delta systems that do not flow into a sea or ocean, with a wetland system that is largely intact.

    We visited a bushman camp, accessible via mokoro, a dug-out canoe that is propelled by poling (similar to punting). There we stayed overnight in their very rustic camp - no electricity, no running water. We enjoyed a few guided bushman walks while we were there.
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  • 16. Namibia: Windhoek

    23. maj 2023, Zambia ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Leaving Etosha, we headed south and stopped in the capital city of Windhoek before heading east towards the Omaheke region.

    Windhoek, with a population of 200K+, is small by global capital standards, and is fairly unremarkable. Our campsite was cute - we engaged in tent camping in a pre-erected tent.Læs mere

  • 11. Namibia: (ENP) Etosha National Park

    20. maj 2023, Namibia ⋅ 🌙 50 °F

    Etosha National Park was awesome!

    One of the most popular destinations in Namibia, ENP is home to 100 mammal species, 340 bird species, 110 reptile species and 16 amphibian species. The park covers an area of 22,270 square kilometers and features a large salt pan that can be seen from space.

    We saw some animals as our truck brought us to our campsite, and then did a full day game drive in open air vehicles the next day. There were many animals near the road - we were so often so close!

    Craig said to me a few days ago that it doesn't entirely feel like we're in Africa until we see the animals. We know we're in Africa now!

    BTW, I can only upload 2 videos per post, so there will be multiple Etosha posts.
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  • 11. Namibia: Spitzkoppe

    19. maj 2023, Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Spitzkoppe is a group of granite peaks known as the "Matterhorn of Africa" because of its shape and height. The highest peak of Spitzkoppe is about 1,784 meters above sea level, and it's granite rocks are estimated to be more than 120 million years old.

    We took a brief tour of the ancient rock paintings made by the local San people that used to inhabit the area, then spent the afternoon and evening climbing the rocks, exploring the area, and enjoying a beautiful evening in front of the fire under the stars.
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  • 10. Namibia: Swakopmund

    18. maj 2023, Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Leaving Naukluft Park, we crossed over the Tropic of Capricorn then spent the night in the coastal town of Swakopmund as we headed towards Spitzkoppe.

    I've been out of school for many years now - but how bad is it that I honestly couldn't remember the significance of the Tropic of Capricorn? Had to look it up. It is the latitude line demarking the southernmost point on earth where the sun can be directly overhead. OK.

    Swakopmund was honestly nothing to speak of. The town has morphed into a central location for tourist activities like sky-diving, bush walks, dolphin cruises & sand surfing. Outside of that, it is just a stopping point on our way to other destinations. Since Craig and I are saving our "optional activity" money for game drives, we spent our free afternoong tracking down wifi at a local cafe that is totally ripping off the Starbucks logo. Ha.
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  • 7. Namibia - the Gariep River

    14. maj 2023, Namibia ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    The border crossing to Namibia was smooth and uneventful, and we continued north, stopping for the evening at Felix Unite on the Gariep (Orange) River. Once again we had delightful accommodation, right on the river.

    Although the accommodations have been lovely thus far, this is not a "glamping trip". The tour requires participation in daily chores such as cooking, washing dishes, and cleaning out the truck. We have been divided into 3 groups of 4 people each, and we rotate the different chores daily. Everyone participates willingly and cheerfully. I know my mother is looking down at me from above, thinking, finally, she's domesticated!

    We also visited Fish River Canyon today, which is the reputedly the second largest canyon in the world. It doesn't quite live up to the Grand Canyon in scope, but we enjoyed a beautiful sunset with the gang.
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  • 6. SA: Western Cape

    13. maj 2023, Namibia ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Our first night with the tour group found us travelling through South Africa's western cape to Highlander's Camp, a vineyard nestled in the Cederberg Mountains. We settled in, then went to the bar where we watched a rugby game (with some very passionate local fans) before dinner, and got to know the rest of our group a bit.

    Our group of 12 (+ a driver and tour leader) includes representation from the U.S. (just us), Australia, New Zealand, France, Germany, Ireland, Singapore, and Zimbabwe. The tour offers 2 sleeping options: tent camping or accommodated (indoor room). We opted for the latter, while 9 others are camping.

    Our tour truck is named "Shashe". At first I was a bit disappointed as several of the features they advertised (tables throughout the bus for people to sit at, charging stations, and overhead storage for day bags) were not available. That said, we have cheerfully adapted and are gradually falling into a routine.
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  • 5. SA: Cape Town - Sightseeing Bus Tour

    10. maj 2023, Sydafrika ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    On our last free day in Cape Town, before our official tour started, we decided to take the city bus sightseeing tour. The “blue route” gave us views of the city, the waterfront, and the upscale communities at Houts Bay and Camps Bay (on the Atlantic) and False Bay (an inlet). According to the guide, this is where you might run into the likes of Charlize Theron or Leonardo DiCaprio. (We didn’t).
    Here are some pix of the area…
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  • 4. SA: Cape Town - Overview

    10. maj 2023, Sydafrika ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Cape Town is located at the southwestern tip of South Africa where the South Atlantic and Indian Oceans converge. It's known as the "Mother City", because it was the first European settlement in SA, but perhaps better known for its "apartheid era" lasting from 1948-1994, during which the white minority enforced segregation and inequality amongst racial groups that oppressed the indigenous people. This ended with the election of Nelson Mandela as president in 1994.

    The city boasts a clean, bustling, cosmopolitan environment and is unexpectedly inexpensive. We strolled down to the waterfront after our hike to relax with a beer. ($9 for 2 pints, including tip)
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