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Africa 2023
  • Karen Hechinger
  • Karen Hechinger

Africa 2023

A 76-day adventure by Karen Read more
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  • Trip start
    May 8, 2023
    Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler

    1. Africa 2023 - Itinerary and Prep

    May 3, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 30 °F

    It's happening.

    The trip Craig and I have been talking about, investigating and planning since we got back from South America (early 2020) has become real. Delayed for a few years largely due to pandemic related restrictions, our overlanding trip to Africa, using 3 different tour companies, will last 2 1/2 months and take us through 12 countries from Capetown, South Africa to Cairo, Egypt.

    Our first tour with overlanding travel company Acacia, leaves Capetown on March 18, and takes us through 10 countries in 8 weeks as shown on the attached itinerary map. This includes:

    South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Malawi, Tanzania (including the island of Zanzibar), Kenya, Uganda & Rwanda.

    This tour's travel vehicle is an overlanding truck that can accommodate up to 24 people. Most travellers will be about 1/2 our age (or less), which is great because the roads are described as unpredictable, and we are all expected to "help" if the vehicle gets stuck. I'm not sure exactly what that means, (can 24 people push what I imagine to be a 10,000 pound truck out of a ditch?) but I'm at the gym 4-5 times a week trying to bulk up, just in case.

    The tours are booked, the flights scheduled, travel insurance (including repatriation of our remains, as needed) purchased, and our trip is registered with the State Dept. We've obtained our vaccines, malarial medication, and visas.

    By the way, our luggage is restricted to a 90 litre duffel bag (needs to fit in a locker on the truck), plus a "day-travel bag". Packing is going to be interesting. Hauling a 50 pound backpack from the truck to our accommodations each day will be equally interesting. Craig better start adding more weight to his weighted squats at the gym.

    Our final 2 weeks has us on a flight to Addis Ababa for a tour of Ethiopia, followed by a flight to Cairo for a tour of Egypt including a cruise down the Nile.

    5 days to go...    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    On our way
    Ugh, not even halfway there...Landing momentarily: Table Mountain and Devil's PeakWe're in!

    2. We Made It!

    May 9, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 45 °F

    We're here!

    Having left the house in Reno at 3:45A on Monday, we arrived in Cape Town at 3:30P on Tuesday, chalking up around 25 hours of travel time. While not my first international flight, it was my first long-haul flight of 14 hours from Dulles to Cape Town, and I have to confess I was dreading it.

    I had booked window seats for us, one in front of the other, and upon learning that Craig's row had an open middle seat while mine did not, I shamelessly guilted him into switching seats with me. Begging aside, I remain eternally grateful for his acquiescence.

    Despite getting very little sleep on the plane, the flight was otherwise pleasant. The food was surprisingly good (for airplane food), the flight attendants attentive and accommodating, and the conversation engaging. My South African born seat mate, who was travelling home for a family visit, was currently making a living as a stewardess on a 14-person cruise yacht operating out of Ft. Lauderdale. You always meet interesting people on the plane, right?    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    View of Table Mountain from the waterfront
    Up we go...Platteklip TrailYou got this Craig!1We made it!Wandering around the topWindeeeeeee!1View of Cape TownDescending in the cable carOur reward

    3. SA: Cape Town - Table Mountain

    May 10, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    The next day, to stretch our legs after our long flights, we elected to do one of the Table Moutain hikes. We chose the Platteklip Gorge Trail, which ascends 2100 ft over 1.6 miles, and is much like climbing large, rocky, uneven stairs for 2 hours. Great fun and just what our bodies needed.

    Table Mountain is a 2 mile wide plateau offering beautiful views of the city and the South Atlantic. It can be accessed by cable car, which we opted into for a quick descent.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    At the waterfront
    Am I confused? Is SF closer to here than Chicago?Town square at the waterfrontRobben Island houses the prison where Nelson Mandela was held captive for so many years

    4. SA: Cape Town - Overview

    May 10, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Cape Town is located at the southwestern tip of South Africa where the South Atlantic and Indian Oceans converge. It's known as the "Mother City", because it was the first European settlement in SA, but perhaps better known for its "apartheid era" lasting from 1948-1994, during which the white minority enforced segregation and inequality amongst racial groups that oppressed the indigenous people. This ended with the election of Nelson Mandela as president in 1994.

    The city boasts a clean, bustling, cosmopolitan environment and is unexpectedly inexpensive. We strolled down to the waterfront after our hike to relax with a beer. ($9 for 2 pints, including tip)    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    Our sightseeing tour - we opted for the blue line1An open air mallThe mall had this beautiful shared working space - I thought it was pretty neat.

    5. SA: Cape Town - Sightseeing Bus Tour

    May 10, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    On our last free day in Cape Town, before our official tour started, we decided to take the city bus sightseeing tour. The “blue route” gave us views of the city, the waterfront, and the upscale communities at Houts Bay and Camps Bay (on the Atlantic) and False Bay (an inlet). According to the guide, this is where you might run into the likes of Charlize Theron or Leonardo DiCaprio. (We didn’t).
    Here are some pix of the area…    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    Our tour truck is named "Shashe"
    Inside of our tour truck, looking forwardHakuna Matata means "no worries"Catching a rugby match at the Highlander's Camp barWine tasting1Our room for the evening2

    6. SA: Western Cape

    May 13, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Our first night with the tour group found us travelling through South Africa's western cape to Highlander's Camp, a vineyard nestled in the Cederberg Mountains. We settled in, then went to the bar where we watched a rugby game (with some very passionate local fans) before dinner, and got to know the rest of our group a bit.

    Our group of 12 (+ a driver and tour leader) includes representation from the U.S. (just us), Australia, New Zealand, France, Germany, Ireland, Singapore, and Zimbabwe. The tour offers 2 sleeping options: tent camping or accommodated (indoor room). We opted for the latter, while 9 others are camping.

    Our tour truck is named "Shashe". At first I was a bit disappointed as several of the features they advertised (tables throughout the bus for people to sit at, charging stations, and overhead storage for day bags) were not available. That said, we have cheerfully adapted and are gradually falling into a routine.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    The Gariep River
    This is where the tent campers sleep1This is where we sleep :)Oatmeal and banana breakfast on the river from our patioSunset view from our cabinI'm on cooking detail tonightFish River CanyonSunset at Fish River Canyon

    7. Namibia - the Gariep River

    May 14, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    The border crossing to Namibia was smooth and uneventful, and we continued north, stopping for the evening at Felix Unite on the Gariep (Orange) River. Once again we had delightful accommodation, right on the river.

    Although the accommodations have been lovely thus far, this is not a "glamping trip". The tour requires participation in daily chores such as cooking, washing dishes, and cleaning out the truck. We have been divided into 3 groups of 4 people each, and we rotate the different chores daily. Everyone participates willingly and cheerfully. I know my mother is looking down at me from above, thinking, finally, she's domesticated!

    We also visited Fish River Canyon today, which is the reputedly the second largest canyon in the world. It doesn't quite live up to the Grand Canyon in scope, but we enjoyed a beautiful sunset with the gang.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    Tropic of Capricorn in the bottom line. Equator & Tropic of Cancer above it.
    1Tropic of Capricorn videoHeading through the mountains towards the coast.Swakopmund, Namibia. Not really much to see here.We tracked down some decent wifi at this cafe thats ripping off the Starbucks logo...

    10. Namibia: Swakopmund

    May 18, 2023 in Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Leaving Naukluft Park, we crossed over the Tropic of Capricorn then spent the night in the coastal town of Swakopmund as we headed towards Spitzkoppe.

    I've been out of school for many years now - but how bad is it that I honestly couldn't remember the significance of the Tropic of Capricorn? Had to look it up. It is the latitude line demarking the southernmost point on earth where the sun can be directly overhead. OK.

    Swakopmund was honestly nothing to speak of. The town has morphed into a central location for tourist activities like sky-diving, bush walks, dolphin cruises & sand surfing. Outside of that, it is just a stopping point on our way to other destinations. Since Craig and I are saving our "optional activity" money for game drives, we spent our free afternoong tracking down wifi at a local cafe that is totally ripping off the Starbucks logo. Ha.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    This will be our campsitePicture from the top of one of the rock formations - our truck far belowOur bushman paintings tourThe rhino is always painted with his nose pointed towards the nearest water sourceOne of my tourmates catching some sunAnother travelmate enjoying some solo timeHello there little guy!A local artifactSpitzkoppe video - windy dayThe sky's color changes so quickly during sunsetPrepping for dinner - look at the beautiful violet skyMarshmallows around the fire - good times...

    11. Namibia: Spitzkoppe

    May 19, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Spitzkoppe is a group of granite peaks known as the "Matterhorn of Africa" because of its shape and height. The highest peak of Spitzkoppe is about 1,784 meters above sea level, and it's granite rocks are estimated to be more than 120 million years old.

    We took a brief tour of the ancient rock paintings made by the local San people that used to inhabit the area, then spent the afternoon and evening climbing the rocks, exploring the area, and enjoying a beautiful evening in front of the fire under the stars.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    We know we're in Africa now!
    Our game drive started early in the morning12 people in 2 trucks gave everyone a great viewSouthern yellow-billed hornbill

    11. Namibia: (ENP) Etosha National Park

    May 20, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ 🌙 50 °F

    Etosha National Park was awesome!

    One of the most popular destinations in Namibia, ENP is home to 100 mammal species, 340 bird species, 110 reptile species and 16 amphibian species. The park covers an area of 22,270 square kilometers and features a large salt pan that can be seen from space.

    We saw some animals as our truck brought us to our campsite, and then did a full day game drive in open air vehicles the next day. There were many animals near the road - we were so often so close!

    Craig said to me a few days ago that it doesn't entirely feel like we're in Africa until we see the animals. We know we're in Africa now!

    BTW, I can only upload 2 videos per post, so there will be multiple Etosha posts.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    WindhoekThe town square/zoopark is tucked in there somewhereDoesn't look like you're allowed to have fun hereOur Windhoek lodging - Urban CampSpots for camp vehiclesSpots for tentsOur home tonight

    16. Namibia: Windhoek

    May 23, 2023 in Zambia ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Leaving Etosha, we headed south and stopped in the capital city of Windhoek before heading east towards the Omaheke region.

    Windhoek, with a population of 200K+, is small by global capital standards, and is fairly unremarkable. Our campsite was cute - we engaged in tent camping in a pre-erected tent.Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    Our ride to the camp in a mokoro
    Very quiet, peaceful & sereneI guess better flies than mosquitos, right?Our overnight lodging and ensuite bathroomCampsite decorOur bushman walk guides, looking for the animalsThe elephant was here!The elephant and zebra were hereBack to camp

    17. Botswana - Okavango Delta

    May 27, 2023 in Botswana ⋅ 🌙 72 °F

    We crossed the border from Namibia to Botswana without fanfare, and found our way to the Okavango Delta. This delta earned the title of UNESCO World Heritage Site because it is one of the few interior delta systems that do not flow into a sea or ocean, with a wetland system that is largely intact.

    We visited a bushman camp, accessible via mokoro, a dug-out canoe that is propelled by poling (similar to punting). There we stayed overnight in their very rustic camp - no electricity, no running water. We enjoyed a few guided bushman walks while we were there.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    View from our cabinViewing areaThis trunk is heavy, think I'll rest it on my tusk

    18.Botswana: Nata - Elephant Sands Lodge

    May 28, 2023 in Zambia ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Elephant Sands Lodge is described as a magical place to stay, and the reality does not disappoint. The owners have created an elephant watering hole viewing station that allows visitors to be as close as 5 feet to the elephants. At one point, I thought one of them was going to reach over and pat my head with his trunk.

    We sat, mesmerized, for hours.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    1
    1We were SO close to them

    19. Botswana: Nata - Elephant Sands 2

    May 28, 2023 in Zambia ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    More elephants...

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    1We descended through the jungle to the river running under the fallsKeep your possessions secure - the baboons will steal anything not nailed down1The mist & splash from the falls soaked usThe famous Victoria Falls Bridge connects Zambia to Zimbabwe1Walking across the Victoria Falls Bridge1Shot from the Victoria Falls Bridge1Remote view of the falls from our lodge - this is why they call it "Thundering Smoke"1We ran into this warthog on the side of the road as we visited a local Zimbabwe townThey walk around on their front knees as they grazeLocal entertainment2Partying with the locals

    23. Zambia: Livingstone - Victoria Falls

    May 31, 2023 in Zambia ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Victoria Falls, aka Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, aka "Thundering Smoke", is located on the border of Zambia & Zimbabwe and is one of the world's largest waterfalls, with a width of 1,708 m (5,604 ft). While it is neither the highest nor the widest waterfall in the world, the Victoria Falls is classified the largest, based on its combined width of 1,708 metres (5,604 ft)[7] and height of 108 metres (354 ft),[8] resulting in the world's largest sheet of falling water.

    We viewed the falls from the Zambia side, then popped over to Zimbabwe via the Victoria Falls Bridge.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    Sleeping on top of each other
    View from our roomOur charming cabin at Wildlife CampTheir heads are heavy and they like resting them on the sandbar1Hippos actually can't swim. They are always touching bottom with their feetSymbiotic relationship - the birds get easy access to insects, and the hippos get their skin cleanedLined up & napping. Check out the huge one on the leftLuangwa River

    25. Zambia: Wildlife Camp, Luangwa River

    June 4, 2023 in Malawi ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Our 13 hour trip led us to Wildlife Camp, a peaceful, remote location where animals are free to roam through the campsite. We are poised on the Luangwa River, so the location has the benefit of attracting animals looking for water.

    What a treat this morning. We got up at 6:30 and looked out our window to see a herd of hippos active in the water. We drew our camp chairs to the river's edge, and spent an hour watching them move about before heading to our campsite for breakfast. (This is what is referred to as African TV.)

    I'm realizing that the very large animals like elephants and hippos move quite slowly. When we watched the elephants queue up for water at Elephant Sands, they would take a few steps forward, wait 10 minutes, then jockey for a better position, wait another 10 minutes, then take another step forward. Frustrating if you're trying to get a video and move on, but a surprisingly pleasant way to pass the time if you have it. I think the elephants and hippos might be my favorites.    Read more

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