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  • Day 7

    11. Food Observations

    May 6 in Iceland ⋅ ☀️ 43 °F

    A few notes about food...

    The language spoken here is Icelandic, though everyone we've met seems to be anywhere between competant and fluent in English. Food labels at the grocery stores are mostly in Icelandic so the camera feature of Google Translate has been particularly useful.

    Food prices are very high here - appetizers run $15-30, dinners run around $25-60, (the $25 options are bread-based foods like sandwiches, burgers or small pizza), a glass of house wine about $16. We did find one local fish'n chips take-out for about $23. Veggies are rarely served with meals, and are roughly twice the price at the store of what we are used to in the US. I've been munching on store bought carrots, lettuce, apples and a red pepper in the car as we travel. Not unexpectedly, the quality & taste of these products shipped here from abroad is less than what we're accustomed to in the US. Craig's snack of choice is crackers with peanut butter, or pb & banana sandwiches. Yes, I've had a few of those too!

    Some of the meals have been delicious, most just kind of average. The lamb, cod & arctic char are wonderful . I made the mistake of trying a local dish called "Icelandic moss soup", served up in a local farmhouse turned cafe. The moss was fine, but the broth tasted like sugared oatmilk, which I think is what it actually was. I try to roll with the punches, but I confess to finding it downright inedible. (When the waiter asked, I told him it just wasn't quite what I had expected. He smiled indulgently - I'm pretty sure I wasn't the first person to say this).

    Anyway, our self-drive tour includes buffet breakfast at each hotel, and the offerings were varied. The best ones included hot food like scrambled eggs with bacon & brown beans, but they all include breads, rolls, croissants, & pastries, yogurt, oatmeal, cereal, and processed meats & cheeses. Sometimes there is canned fruit cocktail & sometimes fruit like bananas & apples.

    Bottom line - you need to like fish/meat, potatoes and bread to survive here. Fruits & vegetables just aren't readily available. One of our healthiest and least expensive meals was found at the gas station convenience store - a tip we picked up from a fellow blogger.
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  • Day 7

    10. Kayaking thru Icebergs

    May 6 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    Today we had the super fun experience of kayaking through the icebergs at Vatnajokull National Park in southeastern Iceland.

    At 8500 sq km of surface area, Vatnajokull is the largest glacier in Europe, covering 8% of Iceland's landmass. We joined 4 other people, including our guide Gudaney, and others from Kansas, Colombia & Australia, in paddling our way in blow-up boats through the maze of icebergs that had broken off from the glacier and were floating through the fjord.

    Gudaney (quite sure I've misspelled that) happily answered our questions about growing up in the remote parts of the country. Her school had 16 people, ages 6-16, and her age level boasted a class of 4. Her description of a happy childhood just reminded us how you don't miss what you've never had.
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  • Day 6

    9. Husavik & Djupivogur

    May 5 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Our trip took us through some quaint fishing villages that we stopped to visit.

    I chatted with the woman who owns the coffee truck in Djupivogur harbor. She moved here from Reykjavik years ago; she was a school principal and her husband the mayor before they retired. Now they live a quiet life in a village of about 500 people that caters to tourists, including those visiting from cruise ships. Apparently there are currently up to 4000 tourists descending upon the town daily during the season. Sheesh! The town has been overwhelmed by the influx, and the legislature is currently working on regulations to limit it to 2000.Read more

  • Day 5

    8. Northeastern coastal drive

    May 4 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    We have found the northeastern part of the ring road to be much prettier and more interesting than the west, probably because we were hugging the coast much of the way.

    We've run into a little weather here and there, some rain, some drizzle, and some fog, but Craig has navigated the driving expertly and we are none the worse for wear.Read more

  • Day 5

    7. Hverfjall Crater plus

    May 4 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    The Hverfjall Crater, located in northern Iceland, stands 1300 feet high with a rim diameter of over 3300 feet, making it one of the biggest craters of its kind in the world. We hiked up and around the diameter to enjoy a little exercise and the view.

    We also stopped at Dimmuborgir to stroll through the lava caves. Dimmuborgir was made famous when a part of Game of Thrones was filmed here one winter.
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  • Day 4

    6. Hotels (so far...)

    May 3 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    3 hotels down, 3 to go. Our 7th hotel will be a repeat of the first.

    We were not surprised by the minimalist nature of the hotel rooms, which is not saying we have any complaints. All have been clean, functional, and pleasant. We expected the Icelandic style of furnishings and accommodations to lean towards that of other Nordic countries: small, modular, practical, efficient.

    That said, the locations have been peacefully remote and the natural beauty surrounding them (except in the city of Reykjavik), stunning.
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  • Day 4

    5. Scenery - Water, Ice & Snow

    May 3 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    Even though we've only travelled a small part of the Island, our first impressions of Iceland leave us thinking this is the least likely country in the entire world to have water resource issues. Since reaching the north part of the island, the landscape is filled or scattered with snow capped mountains, partially iced up ponds and fjords, and saturated meadows turned into bogs.Read more

  • Day 3

    4. Icelandic Waterfalls & Hot Springs

    May 2 in Iceland ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    We're not huge waterfall fans, but waterfalls are part of what Iceland is all about. The Barnafoss and Godafoss Falls were our first sightings - I think the best is still yet to come.

    The Barnafoss Falls come with an Icelandic tale about 2 boys that fell off a bridge over the falls and drowned. Charming.

    We've also seen quite a few geothermal hot springs in our day - anyone who's been to Yellowstone is familiar with them. Again, Iceland wouldn't be complete without including them. Our first experience was at Namaskard.
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  • Day 3

    3. Western countryside

    May 2 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 34 °F

    We left Reykjavik and travelled north through the countryside. The landscape in this part of Iceland was initially less than spectacular, but we gradually came upon more picturesque mountains & waterways. There were quite a few individual residential buildings standing in meadows or on mountains in the middle of nowhere, and I had to wonder what life would be like in the middle of winter in a place like that.

    A few pix...
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  • Day 2

    2. Day 1

    May 1 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Ok - our enthusiasm may have been wanting a bit - our first day here was actually a bit of a blur. Neither one of us slept well the night before the alarm went off at 4A for our 7A flight to LA then NY, nor did we sleep well on the ensuing red-eye we took out of JFK to Keflavik airport. We arrived around 9:30A a bit bleary-eyed, but we had an itinerary to follow, so off we went!

    Today's itinerary sent us directly from the airport to the southwestern corner of the island called the Reykjanes Peninsula, where we viewed the Reykjanes Lighthouse and volcanic coastal region before heading north to our hotel in the capital city of Reykjavik. We checked in and wandered the downtown area where we found a delightful locals-style seafood restaurant, where you set and bus your own table. Love it. Did you know that even in restaurants that provide table-side service, tipping is neither solicited not expected? No credit card processors that prompt you to tip 20-40%. Makes up, at least a little, for the extremely expensive cost of food here.

    BTW - the famous Blue Lagoon, which was on our itinerary for today, has been closed due to a volcanic eruption at nearby Sundhnúkagígar. The Blue Lagoon is a man-made geothermal spa that is the most visited paid for attraction in Iceland. There are plenty of geothermal spas here and we're not big fans of crowded tourist attractions, so we'll happily go find another.
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