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Africa the Return
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Africa the Return

Back to Africa. Benin, Togo, Ghana and Botswana wuth a bit more of Namibia too. Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 11, 2025
    Africa the Return
    Airport time again 😀
    Proposed track to Singapore. Waved as we went past Useless Loop.Crossing the equator. Got to do it a couple more times on this trip.Orchid display in Changi AirportMore orchidsAnd more orchids. Those yellow flowers on the semi arches are orchids too.

    Outbound Perth to Benin

    September 11 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Waiting on our first leg to Benin. Left Perth about 5:30pm. In Singapore now if you had not guessed. Next flight is at 2:00am and deposits us in Ethiopia where we transfer to Benin. Singapore to Ethiopia is 10 hours so we'll try to grab some sleep.Read more

  • Africa the Return

    Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.

    September 12 in Ethiopia ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    End of leg 2. 15 hours of flying under the belt. 5 more to go. Adding another airport to the tally. So what do you do in Ethiopia even if you are stuck in the airport? Get a coffee in the land that gave us all coffee. Not bad.
    Layover here then on to Benin, our hotel and then fighting over who gets the first hopefully hot shower.    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    Ceiling decoration in Addis Ababa airport.
    11th of September is New Year in Ethiopia. According to their calendar, it is 2018.Jet setting.The rainy Atlantic Ocean. Today was hot, humidity and rainy. Not as rainy tomorrow.

    Benin Arrival

    September 12 in Benin ⋅ 🌩️ 28 °C

    Finally arrived in Benin to start our trip. So tired after all the flights and layovers. We were determined not to go to bed too early but nah mate. We have just ordered dinner at ten to four. Then bed. Not many photos due to the rain ever since we arrived.Read more

  • Africa the Return
    Statue of Dahomey Agojie, a warrior woman from Benin's past.
    The statue is 30m tall and dedicated to the women of Benin.This mural is 940m long and still growing. We walked it all.Edmund doubling as a photo shoot extra. His clothes are ordinary for Benin.A Fisherman on Lake Nokoue. Dab hand with that cast netDrum band came out to meet us. Well, they were booked but a great experience.Firewood, the house pirogue canoes and the household solar array.The kitchen. The smell of the wood fire was delicious.Organised and neat kitchen. Makes me embarrassed at the state of ours.View from the local bar. No, we were good people.Washing drying. The people dress so well, we are drab and scruffy by comparison.The restaurant where we lunched. We sat outside on the raked sand.

    Cotonou and Ganvie Water Village

    September 14 in Benin ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Quick trip to see a couple of sights in Cotonou and then then most of the day out on the water on Lake Nokoue which is covered in fish traps and fish aggregation devices made of tree branches and palm fronds.
    Visited the Ganvie stilt village which built out over the water. Visited the local shop and the shop owners house. Had lunch at a restaurant which I think was on one of the rare patches of land.
    Have ended the day in Abomey which is not far from Cotonou. Long drive tomorrow though with a 7am start.    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    One of the floating stalls in the Ganvie Monday Market.
    You can get lollies, fruit, breakfast, toilet rolls, ballpoint pens, pretty much anything.You can find the right stall or it comes to you.Market breaking up. At peak you could have walked across from boat to boat.As I said, pretty much everything.Kids being dropped off for their first day of school. Many had their own boats.Traditional boat maker. These little ones are hardwood and cost about $300. Not cheap.Lovers Lane. A specific spot on the street Lovers Lane, where singles go to meet in private.The women, young and old, take pride in their hair.She has a wood fire going in the boat and sells fresh, deep fried sweet potato. Popular!Absolutely poured with rain in the afternoon. The street flooded to the depth of the bus floor.

    Lovers Lane, Ganvie

    September 15 in Benin ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    Went back out the Ganvie Village in Lake Nokoue today. It's Monday Market day and the main drag was packed with boats selling and buying for about 500m. Weird thing was that it wasn't at a standstill. The boats just glide past each other mm apart, sometimes touching. There is no aggressive. You search around to find what you want or like us, we pulled to one side and floating stalls came to us.
    Have shifted now a few hours away heading for Togo. Having a look at the old capital of Dahomey tomorrow. Skies opened up with a major downpour, flooding the road. We got through OK.    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    Stilt dancing. Great performance but not as athletic as if it had been dry.
    More stilt dancing. Some of the dancers had huge stilts, 3m or so.Angela and Death sitting on a wall having a breather. His was the shortest stilts.Mural on the Voodoo temple. The text means something like 'Voodoo is the way to God'.Out of the lions mouth. The view from the Voodoo Temple door.The door that shall not be passed.The Chameleon temple. It's called that because ...The interior of the Chameleon Temple. No problem going in but shoes off please.Salt workers huts. It will be in the YouTube video.The Gate of No Return. Commemorates the millions of people shipped out into slavery.The Mask Dance band warming up with a few ladies getting into it.Touristy pic with the 'masks'. See the video.Prawns?Mask Dance excerpt.

    Abomey Voodoo

    September 16 in Benin ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    After the heavy rain last night postponed our last event for the day turns out it's dry enough to go ahead this morning. Stilt dancing is dangerous on wet ground.
    Great performance. Half the village turned out for the fun. The performance is often related to the voudun (voodoo) religion but they have non religious performances they put on for fun. We got one of those.
    Came away half deaf from the drumming and brass. Great fun.
    The off the a local Voodoo temple for a look at the outside and an beginner's guide to Voodoo. It's nothing like Hollywood, just a big religion with millions of followers. Not allowed in the temple, not followers. Even our tour leader would not go in. He is in the religion but a different 'parish'.
    Next door was the Chameleon Temple. This is mixed use with Christian, Muslim and Voodoo services in the same building.
    Then a sad part of the day. A bit of a look at why this is called the Slave Coast. Benin is the source of many of the African slaves that were shipped out to other countries. Two memorials and a talk from a specialist guide.
    Not finished yet. Then off to another dance. This time a Mask Dance, The masks are like mini haystacks that move and dance. Then they open them up to show there is nobody inside. Again the village came out for the fun and really got into it. A lot of women dancing and the band going for it big time. Got a Voodoo blessing because this is a Voodoo thing.
    Then off to our hotel back on the coast, tired and ready for dinner. Sorry for the long entry, it's been a long day.    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    Everyone just limbering up for the trance dance.
    Aunty Angela babysitting.Lunch. Hmmm what to have.View across the neck of the lagoon. We were in a beach shelter right on the waters edge.Fish and chips 'English Style'.Um, Togoville. Not many stills to post.Togoville Hairdresser and you can grab some sandals too.Edmond in his side gig as a photographic model.The boat back. These hand made timber boats are great. This one seated 16 tourists.Hauling in a fishing netThis tree is reputed to be the reincarnation of the king that founded the park.Giant millipedeRestaurant at Casa de Papa where we breakfasted this morning.

    Togo Day 1

    September 17 in Togo ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    After a night at our none to shabby beachfront cabin, we proceeded towards our next country, Togo. Stopped off at a forest park/voodoo sanctuary on the way. Took over an hour to cross the border, but we got across eventually.
    Next stop, another Voodoo related musical event. We were permitted to look in on a village trance dance. What's that? You basically have (very energetic) music and dancers, some of whom fall into a trance and are taken over by a spirit. I'm pretty cynical at times but I'm pretty sure none of it was faked. No spirits maybe, but people were just letting themselves lose control. Very intense. Some of it I did not record. The music was the most complicated I have heard. It went right through you. The recording is weak and pathetic by comparison.
    Then on to lunch at a very nice beaching venue. It boasted the best fish and chips in Togo so gave that a try. The seafood here is local and delicious.
    Next stop, a boat trip across the lagoon to Togoville for a wander around the dirt streets. The highway across the country along the coast is a four lane wonder. Everything else is pretty much dirt.
    Ok, next. We were meant to go to a traditional medicine market, but we got stuck in a massive traffic jam in a street market. Could have got some perfume, a truck jack and a fire extinguisher dirt cheap. Never made it to the other market. After an hour we made it 500m to a side street and bailed out. Medicine market rescheduled for tomorrow.    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    Assorted body parts at the Fetish Market. It was a bit whiffy.
    Our guide explaining these voodoo dolls are a tourist thing and nothing to do with voodoo.A not at all dead Chameleon one of the vendors had.Need a traditional medicine practitioner?More assorted dead things.A mask shop. This is tourist stuff as well.Mask shopA dragonfly with clear wings with black panels. Very much alive.Some classic Beninoise statues.Flowers in the garden at lunch.Petrol prices. Ghanaian cede per litre. Yes they are metric here.A cow.

    Togo Day 2 - Crossing to Ghana

    September 18 in Ghana ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Up bright and early to go to our cancelled location from yesterday. The streets were dead quiet. The place is called the 'Fetish Market', but it's more like a traditional medicine market but voodoo based. As a result, there are not a lot of herbs to be had but a lot of dead animal parts of startling variety. They are preserved to a degree, but the experience was somewhat aromatic. Everything from Hippo skulls & monkey heads to dried snakes. We were assured that none of the animals were killed for the market. They prefer basically road kill and animals that had died naturally.
    There are a couple of Voodoo priests on site, so it's a one-stop shop. See the priest to get diagnosed, he or she writes a prescription, and you wander the vendors stall to get what you need.
    We had an interview with the priest who showed us some helpful bits and pieces. A Legba to protect your house. Someone breaks in, and they go blind.
    There was a charm to make people love each other for life. We went through the first steps to use that, and he blessed us. Then explained the next step was to rub it on your loved ones' chest, which Angela did. I must be a keeper. He was a nice young guy.
    Then, off to cross the border into Ghana. It was a 20 minute drive. Paperwork, suitcases checked, money changed with a guy walking around with a massive wad of cash who gave us a good rate.
    Next stop, lunch on the banks of the Volta River at a nice Resort Restaurant. They had French fries made from yam instead of potato. Nice.
    Then traffic. Hours stuck in traffic. Not as amusing as yesterday when we were in the middle of a market. Just stuck on the highway not even doing walking pace. Crawled past a KFC and had cows wandering around between cars. Finally got to our destination exhausted. Our poor driver. He deserves a raise. Oh, and we have to switch languages from French to English for Ghana. Hope the bread is still nice.    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    One of the orchids in the hotel garden
    Another orchidThe Fantasy Coffin custom outlet. This is the workshop and shopfrontYes, these are all coffins.Jet coffin for a customer who wanted to travel but was never able to.Beer bottle coffin fitted with shelves to use as storage until you need a coffin.Religious? Maybe a bible coffin is for you?The coffin of a fisherman with the pallbearers carrying it to the grave.These ladies go down the rows of cars in a traffic jam selling drinks and snacks.The walk from our room to dinner by the pool in Accra

    Accra to Kumasi

    September 19 in Ghana ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Ok, no voodoo today but we started the day with a trip to a coffin shop with a difference. Basically they do 'interesting' custom coffins. See the pix. Then off to Kumasi where we will be for a couple of nights. Only 250km but it took over 6hrs. Roadwork, extremely bad roads, some nice roads, traffic, trucks, chaos... You get the picture. A lot of the trucks are very heavily overloaded and very, very slow. Counted at least 20 broken down. The number of lanes of traffic depends on the needs of the current situation. It's very flexible. Organised chaos at its best with no aggro.
    But.... Our luck ran out coming into Kumasi. Had to brake hard to avoid a truck that cut us off and got rear ended. Couple of cars involved I think.
    Everyone OK but our driver was displeased in his quiet way.
    The bus was not badly damaged and we were able the proceed to out hotel, arriving at 7:30pm. A long day, especially for Williams our driver. I think we are staying local tomorrow so he will hopefully have an easier day.    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    Kente cloth for sale. Yes, I had to have something.
    Our guide demonstrating how to do the weaving.A tourist messing it up. Some excuse about not having control of the big toes.Cocoa Pods.Cocoa tree flowers. These become pods later.More Kente cloth. How arty is that shot 😀Making black dye. The sides of the fire are make of cast iron engine blocks to retain heat.We each got to pick three stamps to make banner with a message.These are some of the stamps. Each symbol is a message like 'independance'Lunch stopThe not at all smell, catfish inhabited, slime pool.Palm Wine Sorbet. That slapped a few brain cells 😀The damage to our bus from yesterday's bingle. The car that clipped us was hit from behind.'Ashanti' gold. Say it like a pirate 😀More Gold. That's the kings 'crown'.Some guy who actually knows how to weave. There were some hand made precision parts on that loom.

    Sights of Kumasi

    September 20 in Ghana ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    I think Williams, our driver, breathed a sigh of relief today. Just trips around Kumasi and nearby villages to see potentially dull stuff, except when you get there, it isn't.
    Visited a 170 year old Asante house. In English, it's 'Ashanti' but they don't listen and can't spell. The people are Asante and make up a majority of the Ghanaian people. The name comes from the words 'Asa Nte' because of war.
    Next, off to a village where they weave the traditional Kente cloth that people associate with African. Kente means 'gorgeous' and lots of people wear it. Grabbed myself a man bag for when I go shopping.
    The weavers are amazing. Fast and precise, even with tourists poking camera in their faces.
    Then, on to a place where they make wooden stamps and dye for putting traditional patterns in cloth. The dye is made from tree bark. If you get it on your fingers it just washes off in water, but when it's stamped onto cloth and allowed to dry for a short time, it ain't coming out.
    Next stop, lunch at a cool place called Ikes. Fake African decor in Africa. There was a green, slimey pond with big catfish in it. Weird thing, it didn't smell at all. We had a fresh coconut for the juice, a buffet lunch and then they tried a Palm Wine Sorbet on us. Gee it was nice (and strong). Imagine a gin sorbet.
    After making our way through a giant open air market we went to the Royal Museum. No photos allowed except for the Asante gold, which they are famous for. There was the old king's 1960s Sanyo TV, which still worked, an ancient ceiling fan about as old as me, which still worked, and an ancient keto fridge imported from Egypt, which still works. The Asante King lives next door to the museum now.    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    Hybrid house construction in Bonkro. Concrete and clay.
    Bonkro house wallDrying cocoa. The beans have to be re-spread every 5 to 10 minutesSpreading cocoa beansAngela in the old school. Got sprung using her phone.The kitchen/dining room where we are staying.We were having a chat with this lady.The dog ate your homework? Somebody's homework we found in the street.Walking down to the villageThe activities at the lodgePithicartes bird or 'Bald Crow'. Doesn't look anything like a Crow.My best picture of the day. Very hard to get because it's nearly darkAngela caught with her phone in school. Tsk tsk.

    Bonkro

    September 21 in Ghana ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Out of Kumasi today and down to a little village called Bonkro. Not even on Google Maps. Here to see some rare birds and maybe a Pangolin.
    Accommodation is at a very basic lodge. Clean, comfortable with hot showers but no air conditioning. She's gonna be a warm night.
    It's on the edge of the rainforest so it's hot and humid.
    We went for a walk into Bonkro village for basically a stickybeak. The kids are,as usual, cheeky but polite. A guy invited us the have a look at his house. Very basic sort of rammed earth house but without the ramming bit. His wife was cooking lunch over charcoal. Smelled delicious.
    Checked out the old a new schools and the Palm Wine production which was 2x44 gallon drums.
    Then off to try to spot Bald Crows or Picthartes. These are very rare. We have to hike through the forest and sit on a plank bench for two hours, not talking and moving slowly. Long story short, success. Got several birds returning to the nest.
    Back to the lodge for dinner then a few of us went on a night walk looking for Pangolins. No luck. Saw a Bush Baby, a couple of flying squirrels which did not fly and a tree hyrax. It was hot and humid in the forest. We were soaking wet when we got back at 10pm. Cold shower & straight to bed.    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    Mobile hot spot. One of the places in Bonkro where you get signal. Check your phone when you go past
    A moth. Lots of exotic insects here.Angela in her staff shirt.A Cicada the size of my thumb.Lunch. Fried Plantain, Redred and rice. Angela was on the Redred team.Angela in the kitchen. I'm being shooed away.She gets a staff shirt. Give us a twirl 😀

    Bonkro Day 2 - Last Day in Ghana

    September 22 in Ghana ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Early morning start this morning to go bird watching in the forest. Took the bus along a logging road to get some clear space where you can actually see something. Weather was overcast again so most of the birds were distant silhouettes. Not many exciting pix of them but plenty of butterflies and insects so I focused on them. I'll edit this to add some later.
    We then had the morning off. Angela signed up for an African Cooking course, so the ladies commandeered the bus and went into the market in the nearby big town to get fresh ingredients. There is not a lot of refrigeration so a lot of the ingredients are bought fresh.
    The output of the course became lunch. Actually very nice.
    Another break until 3;00pm then back to the Picathartes again. Had to wait for an afternoon storm which tipped it down. Forest was even more hot and humid.
    On the way to the birds the guides found a tree Pangolin. How they found it I don't know. Very well hidden low in a tree.
    Saw Picathartes birds again, but I swapped seats to a less favourable position. Pix are not as good as yesterday. They are still on the 'proper' camera so I'll edit them in later.
    Night walk called off tonight as we are tired and a Pangolin was already found.
    Tomorrow is 6hrs back to Accra lunch and then the airport. We will be shifting down to Botswana to start that part of the trip.    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    From yesterday. Spot the pangolin in the tree.
    Bonkro village. We were staying where the dot is.Us oldies on the bus. The two nature guides from Bonkro hitched a lift to a town a few hours away.

    Return to Accra

    September 23 in Ghana ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    250km 6hr drive back to Accra today. The schedule is drive, lunch, airport. Flying out to Botswana this afternoon to start leg 2 of the trip.
    Its been very warm and humid here in West Africa and Botswana is looking to be plain hot. 38c today.
    I'll post some photos if I can.
    Sitting in the airport waiting for our flight. Said goodbye to the three people on the trip we have not met before. Also to our 'minders', Edmond, Koffi and Williams. We are astounded by Williams' ability to negotiate the traffic and the blasted hours of roadworks. We'll miss them.    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    The Hi Lux.
    Our chalet.Inside the chalet. The mozzie net is not an option.Warthogs in the gardenThe managerNo ceiling. There is a gap between the walls and roof for air circulation. It works.Going for dinner.Have to make sure we don't end up here.Love these chairsMaun International Airport

    Botswana

    September 24 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    After two flights and a layover in Ethiopia, we finally arrived in Maun in Botswana. We flew into Maun, not Gabarone, the capital, because Maun is the entry point for the Okavango Delta. The Okavango is the main tourist area in Botswana.
    Stepped off the plane at the small airport and it's hot (36c) and dry as. Picked up by the hire car people do all the hire car stuff. In Namibia we had a well loved Hi Lux with many km on the clock. This time its still a Hi Lux but with less than 7000km on the clock, a screen, Android Auto and all the mod cons. Not set up for camping so no fridge or water tank. It's part time 4wd so I'll have to remember that.
    Drove to our accommodation. Its nice. Not posh but homey, neat and clean. Nice gardens but no grass. This is desert country and dry as.
    Tomorrow we will hit the shops to stock up with a bit of food and a lot of water. Also get the special nice smelling insect repellent you wear to bed. Like west Africa, this is malaria country.    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    Botswana. It's dry.
    Our chalet on the edge of the lagoonOur shower etcThe view from the deckDrinking poosHornbill at our previous accommodation.

    Guma Lagoon

    September 25 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Did shopping in Maun to stock up with water, car snacks etc. Bought a local SIM card which took several tries and turns out might not be what we want.
    Headed off to our first destination, Guma Lagoon in the Okavango itself. This is a permanent waterhole in the desert, a bit like Yellow Waters in Kakadu. 300 and a bit km and predicted travel time is 5hrs.
    The first 200km were not bad. Averaged about 100kmh in the Hi Lux, which unlike the old one is very happy at those speeds.
    Then Botswana happened. It has a reputation for having crap roads and it became true. Sealed roads with massive potholes and in some sections no blacktop at all. Well we have the vehicle for it and it was just slow but not a problem.
    Then we lost the Google Maps route (no paper map this trip) so I estimated the turnoff. We came to a sign for Guma Lagoon Camp and followed it to a parking area, but nowhere near the camp. Confused.
    Ok, I find a camp about 500m away and back track to find the signs to that. Go 12km down a sand track and a local tells us that you can't get to our camp from that camp and we have to go back to where we were.
    Ok, we do that and find the sign he said to look for which is the sand track to our camp. More confusing tracks, ask locals who seem to be used to lost white fellas. Long story short, after 18km of sand tracks, indignant cows and one monkey we got there. The Hi Lux earned its keep.
    Its very nice here. Shame we have only one night. Cooled off with a couple of Savannah Ciders. They taste better here. Cross the border into Namibia tomorrow. Not looking forward to that.    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    Sunrise across Guma Lagoon. I'm still in bed
    That will not buff outNeither will that1034 Pula for 63 litres of fuel. I think the sand ruined our economy. Works out about $1.30 per litrOur room for tonight. Not riverfront today but nice.The Okavango River out the front of our resort. This is above the deltaIts hot. Does it look hot?Popa Falls. We can see them from the lodge.Angela and Julie propping up the pop up bar. Julie was in West Africa with us.Popa Falls with some chicky babe and some local people fishing in the rapids.Dinner last night. Oryx steak with mushroom sauce. Basically venison

    Cross into Namibia

    September 26 in Namibia ⋅ ⛅ 36 °C

    After a nice night and a speccy sunset we set off over the 15km of sand tracks back to the the 'mainland' and up the road to our next destination. The roads lived up to Botswana standards. We came across a nice stretch of roadworks and then...
    Damaged my first rental car. Medium large Mercedes bus/camper came the other way so I pulled over as far as I could. He didn't. He just stuck on what blacktop there was and hit our driver side mirror which is no more. Sigh... Yeah, why get your massive 4wd dirty when you can just damage another car and drive off. Not pleased 😕
    In spite of that, made it across the Namibian border no problem. Quiet and helpful staff. Had all the paperwork for 'importing' the car so no problems for us first timers.
    Actually made our accommodation too early to book in, so ham & cheese toastie and a Savannah Dry for lunch.
    Checking in time, we go to our car to get our bags and they get grabbed by several giggling staff ladies who carry them to our chalet as if they weigh nothing.
    Luxury. We have air conditioning and can get laundry done. The hot shower sort of works, enough to wash off the dust of the road and our hair. Go to reception and book a sundowner cruise in the afternoon and a game drive at 6:30am tomorrow. I'm going to ask about fishing because there are Tiger Fish here.
    Cruise was good. Saw one small croc and quite a few relaxed hippos. I'll get some photos off the serious camera.
    PS : Fishing is booked. Cost? A whopping $35 AUD for 2hrs. Includes boat, gear and guide.    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    The Leopard that was kind enough to pose for us, unlike his Etosha cousin where we only got the tail
    Leopard heads off to find breakfastLarge male lion about 10m from our open safari wagonKing Leo again. There was another smaller male and at least two females.They already had breakfast. Somehow they had scored a Buffalo.Afternoon drinks. Love that Savannah ❤️Not rocks, Hippos. We would drift past and cast near them for Tiger Fish.The boat, the guide, the esky of drinks

    Shametu River Lodge, Namibia

    September 27 in Namibia ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    Had a full day to spend in the area today. Last night we booked a morning game drive for 6:30 am. We were advised that this is the best time because the animals will be going down to the Okavango River to drink and it's also cooler.
    The Bwabwata National Park does not rate really highly like Etosha, which we saw in 2023, but it turned it on for us. We saw the smaller Savannah Elephants, Buffalo swimming across the river, lions and to cap it off a Leopard. The Leopard surprised even Mr Ee, the guide who had promised us Impala and nothing more. There were also big crocodiles, water buck, bush buck, monkeys, squirrels and a gazillion birds. This is the top of the Okavango wetlands so it's green and lush on one side and dry and dead looking on the other. That took up 4 hours, which is long for a game drive.
    Then in the afternoon I booked 2hrs of fishing. They provided the boat, which was like a party pontoon thing, tackle and a guide/boat driver. The price was very low since this is not really a haven for wealthy Americans, about $40 AUD. Good news was that it's lure fishing if you want Tiger Fish, which I did. I took some Halco Twisties to try but the guide said they are too small.
    No, I didn't catch anything. Had four strikes and a hookup but the technique is weird. The guide got one of about 1kg. No picture, phone camera would not start and it self released.
    The weird part was that we sometimes tried casting near Hippos. The idea is to catch a fish but not a Hippo.
    Anyway the 2hrs turned into 3hrs. We had a good time. No fish but I learned a lot. Might have another go now that I'm an expert.
    Tomorrow we shift to another lodge on another river so maybe there.
    PS : Angela bought me a shirt like the safari guides wear. It's a bit big for me but it was $80 Namib, which is about $7.50Aud    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    Baboon mum with tiny bebe crossing the track.
    Baby baboonHappy elephants part oneHappy Elephants part 2Impala on the track. They are not worried, we'll unless you are a lion. Then gone!Bed side of chaletNot bed side of chaletMost chalets at the different lodges have one of these. In case of Hippo attack or something.

    Namushasha

    September 28 in Namibia ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    With a relatively short two and a bit hour drive ahead of us, we decided to have a look at the Mahango section of the Bwabwata National Park. This is the other side of the Okavango River to the Buffalo section. Self drive this time, no safari drive.
    Did not expect much given our good day yesterday but saw a lot we did not see before. Zebra, giraffe, Savannah, and full sized elephants. No, Gnu. I know we have seen them before, but it's hard to get tired of.
    The 'full sized' elephants were at a waterhole away from the river. There were about 30, drinking, splashing about in the mud, and having dust baths. BTW, this park is quite narrow, about 40km, but it's about 200km wide. There is plenty of space for the animals.
    Then, into the car for the drive to Namushasha, which is near Kongola. Could not work out the speed limit on the nice road. Seemed to be 80kmh, but signs said to slow to 90kmh for the bigger settlements. So I did 100kmh. Some people were doing 140+. No, there are speed traps here.
    Anyway, finally arrived. Have to go a few km down a dirt road. Very civilised, almost a shame we are staying only one night. Our chalet is right on the water. There is a 'beware of elephants crossing' sign on the road in, we were told to keep our windows closed when not in the room because of monkeys, and we can hear Hippos from our nice shady deck. I think we are in Africa 😀
    I'll try to get Angela to upload pix of our chalet. It's very nice, but I would not want this at every location.
    PS the place is all solar power, but we have AC. Looxury.
    Off back to Botswana tomoz. I think the border crossing will be busy. We shall see.    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    Zoom in to spot the Hippo
    Our chaletBreakfast calls!The restaurant. This is one of the posher places we have booked. Nice on occasions.The view from the main deck. There are Buffalo and Impala out there.Painted Dogs under a tree next to the main road.Painted Dogs, courtesy of Angela's way better phoneYou can see why they are called Painted Dogs.Vervet Monkey in a tree off our deck. They were on our roof as well.Old folks out on the Chobe RiverSunset on the riverWalked out to dinner to see this sunsetTrash pumbas. Did not expect to see Warthogs raiding bins in the middle of town

    Back to Botswana

    September 29 in Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    On the road early this morning, which is a shame. Did not get to explore Namushasha much. Had a 200km trip to the border and then the border crossing. Under some time pressure as we have a river cruise booked and paid for this afternoon.
    We were serenaded by Hippos last night, and Angela said there were lions 'chuffing' as well. Had a Hippo in the river channel in front of our verandah plus Vervet Monkeys in the trees and on our roof.
    Trip to the border was uneventful. The Namibian roads are not bad, the speed limit is 120kmh and this new Hi Lux is pretty decent at those speeds but thirsty.
    We budgeted 2hrs for the border crossing as it is a potentially busy crossing. It took half an hour.
    On the drive into town we hit the wildlife jackpot. Painted Dogs right by the side of the road. These are not often seen, up there in scarcity with Rhinos, but there was a small group just chilling under a tree. We have been very, very lucky this trip.
    Hit town and went to a car parts place to see what we can do with our broken mirror. No luck. Toyota dealer, closed. I really need the mirror in town as local drivers are 'enthusiastic' and you need eyes in the back of your head. Or rear vision mirrors 😀
    Went out on the Chobe River this afternoon. It's sort of compulsory if you go to Kasane. Saw a lot of wildlife, especially Elephants, but crowded with boats and safari wagons on land. Must be what parts of Kenya are like. Not our cup of tea.
    Off on another excursion tomorrow. Sort of the high point of the trip. I hope it goes well.    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    Angela in her fave spot. Gazing out the window of a chopper. It was bumpy i n the hot air
    The 'smoke that thunders'. Spray thrown up by the falls is copious and this is the dry season!The first cascade of the 1700m chain.Yes we're really here.Lookout number I lost count. There are lookouts along most of the gorge. It's a long walk.The second flight of Falls. Remember that this is the dry season.The first waterfall right at the top end of the gorge. It's about 100m high.The spray has created a rainforest in the desert.Hard to see through the spray but there are people in the water right at the top of this fall.Dr Livingstone, I presume? Sorry I couldn't resist.View from the Cafe. Not bad eh.Tourists fooling aboutGiant African traffic coneElephants chilling in the shade by the side of the roadElephants ceasing to chill and seeing off tourists obviously intent on kidnapping a baby elephant.

    Victoria Falls

    September 30 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Added another country to our tally by crossing into Zimbabwe to visit Victoria Falls. Not driving ourselves. We booked onto a small group tour (4 people) so we have a Toyota Tarago for a bus and a driver to help with the border crossing. Oh, and drive.
    It's only about 80km from Kasane to Vic Falls so when we planned the trip, we though 'why not'.
    Crossed through part of the Zambezi National Park on the way. Saw some impala, giraffe, elephants, you know, all the usual stuff.
    First stop was the heli port. No way Angela was not going on a helicopter, especially with such a great destination as Vic Falls.
    The daily rush had not started so we went almost right away. A short, semi expensive flight but worth it for the brilliant view. Angela might post some pix.
    Then it's time to walk along the gorge. Vic Falls is one of these where the water drops sideways down a gorge so it's a 1700m long flight of falla about 100m high. Its the dry season, but even so it's quite a show. Lots of spray thrown up in a refreshing shower in the dry heat. In the wet season, it would be almost unimaginable the amount of water that goes over.
    Two hours of walking and taking photos and just looking later, time for lunch. We get dropped at the Lookout Cafe. Appropriate name. It looks down one of the gorges of the Zambezi River just around the bend from the Falls. Decor = noice, food = noice. One of the best burgers I have had in a long time. Prices not bad. Actually in US dollars since even the new Zimbabwe currency is not very strong.
    Then back into the car to head back to Botswana and our accommodation.
    On the way we find the elephants we saw earlier, but right next to the road. There is a young one on the other side of the road alone who gets into a bit of a flap because we are parked between her and the herd. Result, some of the herd females decide we are up to no good and tell us to push off, which we do.
    Border crossing back to Botswana is easy. No pesky coachloads of tourists. Now back in the cool deciding what to have for dinner.    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    Vulture buffet
    Giraffe munches. No it's not going to move. When you get so close you appreciate that they are HUGE!My quick fix for the broken mirror. The adjuster still works.A Giraffe right by the road. We had to go around.The view from our glamping tent.Elephants have big heads!These are wild elephants. There is no electric fence. It's a bit scary.Mucho jumboGiraffe, gee that's a nice tree! Looks tasty!

    Kalahari

    October 1 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Had planned to do part of the trip to our next destination across the Chobe National Park. Pored over maps to find a route, but when we got our Park Pass, the ranger nixed that idea. Even though it was marked on the map with GPS points, they don't want the public in that area. OK, plan B then, just stick to the area along the river. We saw Painted Dogs in there before, so hopefully again.
    So the Hi Lux got a good workout in the sand. I'm glad I opted for the automatic as it handles the sand with ease. Got some good pictures and just took in all the wildlife.
    We were trying to get to a waterhole away from the river, but the track got very soft, and I chickened out. The sand is very fine, and if you get stuck, you have to dig yourself out in a location where things can and will kill you. 'Nice kitty' does not seem to work on lions and leopards, and I don't have a spray bottle. There are also elephants and Buffalo to contend with. So the safe option was taken.
    We got back to the main road after a few hours and headed south into the Kalahari Desert towards Nata. Our overnight accommodation is called 'Elephant Sands', and it turned out to be appropriate.
    It's a ring of glamping tents and chalets around a waterhole that is popular with the local elephants. There were about 30 there when we arrived. Unlike other places where we have stayed, there is no barrier between people and elephants. You are advised to drive between the restaurant and your digs as there are elephants everywhere.
    I am currently sitting in the bar. The aroma of elephants is pervasive. Oh, we also got upgraded from a chalet away from the waterhole to a big glamping tent at the front. We have spent the afternoon watching elephants.    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    Early morning elephants. Some partied all night.
    Top up in Nata. That's $72 dollarydoos. The HiLux is getting 10.6l per 100km.Morning elephants.Kinga was here! One of my YouTube motorcycle heros.Elephant in the Boteti River.This concentration of animals went for kilometres along the river.Our trusty ride. That rattly five cylinder engine could just chug through the sand.Genuine African sunset. Taken from an ancient Land Rover bumping along the track.Lots animals. Zebras very vocal.

    Makgadikgadi

    October 2 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    After a great night's sleep with a cool desert wind and occasional Elephant commotion, we loaded up the car and headed over for breakfast. Then, off to our next destination at the Boteti River on the edge of the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park. Not going to see the pans as we have plenty of huge salt lakes at home. Wanted to see the smaller Nxai Pan, but it's not within reasonable reach. Too far away.
    Saw ostriches on the way, some zebras, and more elephants. Slowed down but didn't stop for the elephants. We have already upset enough of them.
    After getting slightly lost at Nata, we topped up with fuel and proceeded along the correct route. This is an 'A' road but turned into a Botswana special with sections that were 90% pothole. When this happens, you just pull off onto the shoulder which has become a decent dirt road. The more dangerous potholes are the 'loners', lurking by themselves or in small groups. They can be very deep, and even in a 4wd, you would lose a wheel if you hit one at speed. Full attention is required.
    Boteti River Camp is small and basic, right on the banks of the now dry Boteti River. The sun is scorching hot, but it's cool under the trees. We are sat on the upstairs deck with a couple of Savannah's watching some Elephants drink at a tiny waterhole in the river.
    After a lunch of a bag of chips, we went for a safari drive. Was interested in seeing hyenas as we haven't seen any on either trip yet. We'll that's not what we got. It turns out that thousands of animals, zebra, elephants, giraffe, gnu, kudu, etc gather in the semi dry river bed waiting for the water to arrive so they can go back out into the bush and the currently dryish Okavango. There are also still hippos and crocs here as well and lots of catfish.
    Our safari wagon was an old Land River 110 with the 5 cylinder diesel. Rattly and loud but gee it could pull through that hot, soft sand. On the way back, the twilight was just like those cheesy African Savannah paintings that tourists snap up.
    Tonight, we are being serenaded by zebra instead of elephants. They are here in their 10s of thousands. It's almost a shame we have only one night here.    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    The road to Mababe. Doesn't look bad here.
    The chalets at Mababe.The main part of our room.Sink and shower. Its a modern concrete render. Dunno how they built this out here.We have a private deck our front. Can see gnu and zebra on the plain.The bar and wifi areaEvening from our deck. An elephant strolled by about 10 minutes before.Sitting in the lounge after dinner. Power is back on.

    Mababe

    October 3 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Well that was probably the worst actual road we have ever done! The best bit was like the Useless Loop road. The worst bit was about 40km of deep, deep sand.
    Anyway, left Boteti River this morning and headed to Maun. We had to go via Maun to get to Mababe. Dropped by the Toyota dealer to get a quote to replace our mirror. They are still building the place. No alternative address posted. Oh well.
    Get fuel as we have 4 days up this way and no fuel available in the area. Then off. The road is a Botswana pothole special for a while then the sealed bit stopped and then sand, sand and more sand. The about 50km of not bad dirt road with patches of sand. But after about 2hrs of crap road we got here.
    Its hot and dry but the river we crossed at the edge of the village was running pretty fast and very dirty. Has the flood arrived from Angola?
    The lodge is nice and the room/chalet is wow! Not in an African style but very nice. Glad we have two days here. Just having a GnT with Okavango Gin while wait for our late lunch which has just arrived.
    Decided just to chill in the afternoon. Power is off so no AC so we sit on our deck and watch all the wildlife off in the distance. Might to a safari drive in the distance. There might be Painted Dogs here. If so we'll try to see them.
    This lodge mentions helicopter flights on their Web pages but can't see one here. Will ask about that as well since we are here all day tomorrow.    Read more

  • Africa the Return
    Lilac Breasted Roller. The spectacular bit is their metallic blue and black wings.
    Lone male hyena. Just chilling in the morning cool.Morning game drive time.Three little pigsDawn over the Okavango. Or Kalahari. Take your pick.Secretary Bird. Saw one on the last trip but not as close as this. Big, eagle sized.Happy hippos in the Okavango. Well, an outlier.Lion smoochies.What else can we eat?Our current shower. Not as posh as Mababe but nice anyway.Bathroom sink from the shower. These open air bathrooms stay dry and fresh.The new lounge. Self service honesty bar is a four second walk.Our deluxe chalet. No AC here but it's cool inside with just a fan.Typical tyre on the Safari Wagons. They operate in soft sand, rocks,etc. None have wide tyres.The Okavango is weird. There is a lot of dry Savannah between all the channels.Sunset over the Khwai River. Doesn't look much, but it's deep and fast.Drinks and snacks beside the Khwai River

    Khwai

    October 5 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    Due to a mix-up with game drives at Mababe I did the dawn safari drive this morning instead of the sunset one yesterday. Up at 5:30am for a 6:00am start. Sun not yet up but light enough to walk to the meeting point without getting mugged by wildlife.
    Productive. Was able to see a hyena, which I have not seen before. We went out to the massive wetland that the Khwai River feeds. It's quite full. Lush and green and home to happy hippo.
    Spotted some lions but no Painted Dogs. There is still hope.
    The 2 hour game drive ended up taking 3 hours. Just managed our 10am checkout. Slight side note. When I got back some of the lodge gardeners were washing the cars, ours included. I feel sorry because it's just going to get dirty again. Gave them some cash anyway.
    Next up, the 40km drive from Mababe to Khwai, deeper into the Okavango. The drive is scheduled to take 1hr 20min and it did. Luckily not big stretches of sand, just an awful road. Fairly busy too. Anyway we got there in the scheduled time.
    The accommodation is another simple one. All solar power but not a big enough array to support air conditioning. Our little rondavel cabin is cool with the thatched roof and breeze through ventilation. If you get too hot (it's about 37c) take a shower.
    Food is basic but great. Fed us lunch about 30mins after we got here. Yum.
    The bar is self serve. Each room has a tab. Just mark down what you take and grab it out of the fridge.
    Another game drive scheduled for this afternoon and one for 5:30 in the morning. Maybe also last chance for a mokoro (canoe) cruise. We'll see. Here for two nights then back over the terrible road back to Maun.
    Update. Safari drive was a success in the Hyena department. No adults but some pups at a den waiting for the adults to come back. We went back later to see if the adults had returned but no luck. Also the usual collection of elephants, giraffe, etc. The guide showed us a lion footprint in the sand. It was huge!    Read more

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