Portuguese Coastal Camino

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9. august 2025
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Dag 3
mandag den 11. august 2025 kl. 09.30
☁️ 18 °C
Højde: 11 m
Portugal Vila do Conde 41.280311, -8.72944741°16’49” N 8°43’46” W
Day 1 Porto to Vila do Conde
11. august, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
23.25 km Train to Matosinhos to cut 10 kilometers off my day. After having my flight cancelled in Montreal due to mechanical issues, I finally made it to Porto, Portugal and started my Portuguese Coastal Camino. As I walked on a boardwalk alongside the mighty Atlantic ocean, the crashing waves and jagged rocky shore emphasized why this area is the Costa Morta or death coast. Many ships and sailors have perished here, but the sounds of the ocean, children laughing and the tapping my walking poles created a private symphony that made this coast a paradise for me. Bom Caminho!Læs mere
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Dag 4
tirsdag den 12. august 2025 kl. 11.30
☁️ 22 °C
Højde: 9 m
Portugal Póvoa de Varzim 41.3952, -8.77782241°23’43” N 8°46’40” W
Day 2 - Vila do Conde to Esposende
12. august, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
23.70 kilometers August 12th - Vila do Conde to Esposende, Portugal. My route took me along the coast again, past ancient windmills, and seaweed harvesting farmers today. I recognized what the farmer was doing because I recently watched a movie where a fellow was harvesting "Irish moss" in PEI. The seaweed can be added to fields as natural fertilizer and this farmer uses it for fields of polenta. I proudly used my rusty French to explain the process to a very confused Hungarian pilgrim.
Step by step, muscles aching, and the mind questioning the sanity of this activity, I made it to my Albergue by 2 pm. I keep reminding myself, it's not the grandiose accomplishments that matter in the end, but the small, continual ways that we push ourselves to be our best selves, and that perseverance makes the biggest difference in life.Læs mere
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Dag 4
tirsdag den 12. august 2025 kl. 13.31
☁️ 26 °C
Højde: 14 m
Portugal Esposende 41.482261, -8.7646541°28’56” N 8°45’53” W
The trail to Esposende
12. august, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C
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Dag 5
onsdag den 13. august 2025 kl. 07.10
⛅ 18 °C
Højde: 7 m
Portugal Esposende 41.52415, -8.77584241°31’27” N 8°46’33” W
Day 3 Esposende to Vila Nova de Anha
13. august, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
20.01 km. Today we left the beaches and urban areas behind and climbed hills. Luckily they weren't super steep, but it was a really good workout by the end of the day and the 26C temperature felt so hot. I held my head under several public fountains along the way which was heavenly.
I walked for a while with a couple from Italy and had lunch with two Venezuelan ladies that currently live in Madrid. And then I took the time to book the rest of my Albergues (hostels) for my walk.
This is the busy season for the Camino, so I have been having trouble finding accommodations that line up with my walking endurance. While I am okay walking long distances and sleeping in dorms, I draw the line at sleeping in the ditch, which I was becoming worried about.
Actually that made me remember when my family drove our herd of cattle home from pasture by horseback when I was a teenager. It took two days to get them home and we did sleep in the ditch like cowboys of old with our horses tethered nearby. I guess that means I've turned picky in my old age!Læs mere
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Dag 5
onsdag den 13. august 2025 kl. 10.06
☀️ 22 °C
Højde: 33 m
Portugal Viana do Castelo 41.66685, -8.79912841°40’1” N 8°47’57” W
Trail to Vila Nova de Anha
13. august, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
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Dag 6
torsdag den 14. august 2025 kl. 10.01
☀️ 23 °C
Højde: 68 m
Portugal Viana do Castelo 41.669908, -8.79596741°40’12” N 8°47’45” W
Vila Nova de Anha -Vila Praia de Ancora
14. august, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Day 4 - 21.40 kilometers. I had just finished crossing a long bridge over waters dotted with fishing boats when I heard drums beating nearby. I turned from my trail and came to a central square crowded with people. Obviously a festival was in full swing and I watched a drum group in traditional dress play. They were followed by another group that was half bagpipes and half drums. A third group represented a more traditional marching band with players of all ages. To the side were these large "people" and many locals were trying on the heads. I still had many kilometers to go or I would have stayed to see more. What an opportunity! Bom Caminho!Læs mere
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Dag 6–9
14. august 2025 kl. 13.12 - 17. august 2025
3 nætter
☀️ 27 °C
Højde: 57 m
Portugal Viana do Castelo 41.773117, -8.84673641°46’23” N 8°50’48” W
Soup on the trail
14.–17. aug., Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
After a hot and hilly walk through the forest, an oasis was found serving pea soup and hummus with pita chips.
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Dag 7
fredag den 15. august 2025 kl. 07.08
☀️ 19 °C
Højde: 5 m
Portugal Vila Praia de Âncora 41.8154, -8.86671441°48’55” N 8°52’0” W
Vila Praia de Ancora to Sabaris
15. august, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
Day 5 - 49.43 km. Now if you pay attention to the kilometres of my stages, you'll notice a huge jump today which might make you think I suddenly became the bionic woman. Not so.
Today I crossed from Portugal into Spain aboard a small boat from Xacobeo transfer company. But many of us pilgrims are now facing a shortage of Albergues to stay in. It is high season and town after town are fully booked. So I ended up taking a bus from A Guarda to Sabaris.
Google and I are currently not speaking after it decided to lead me on a merry chase all over A Guarda to the bus stop. The first time that Google proudly announced that I had arrived was at an overgrown rocky lot between some houses. A bus couldn't even get in there!
The second time Google delivered me to an actual bus stop way out on the edge of town with no indication if a bus would come at all.
As I headed back into a more populated area, a local man walking his dog became my rescuer. Communicating through Google translate, he let me know today's a holiday and only one bus will come at 2:30 pm. Other days there's a bus every hour. He led me to the proper bus stop and told me that he would drive by there at 4. If I was still there, he'd take me to Sabaris himself.
Luckily the bus arrived and I'm at my Albergue in Sabaris waiting for my laundry to dry. This was my Albergue in Sabaris. The privacy curtains make the bunk bed seem quite glamorous! Buen Camino (Spanish)!Læs mere
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Dag 8
lørdag den 16. august 2025 kl. 06.48
☁️ 17 °C
Højde: 57 m
Spanien Vigo 42.182783, -8.789142°10’58” N 8°47’21” W
Sabaris to Vigo, Spain
16. august, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
22.86 kilometers - I left before dawn and enjoyed walking through quiet streets in cool temperatures. Today was lots of steep hills through forest, with rocky terrain. After 4 hours of this type of walking without any cafes or stops, I lucked out in seeing a sign to take a small pathway to a promised restaurant. I felt a bit like Red Riding Hood. Should I take the shortcut? Is a Big Bad Wolf waiting? Well, I did take the path and was rewarded with a lovely breakfast at a beautiful restaurant! So the fairytale isn't always right! Buen Camino!Læs mere
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Dag 8
lørdag den 16. august 2025 kl. 23.00
⛅ 18 °C
Højde: 93 m
Spanien Vigo 42.228903, -8.71949742°13’44” N 8°43’10” W
Vigo Ghost hotel
16. august, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
August 16 and 17 - I stayed at the Vigo Beds and Rooms for 2 nights so I could have a rest day. It looks modern and clean in the picture right? It was, but that's where the fun ended. This is what locals call a Ghost hotel. Not for being haunted, but because there's no staff, no reception, no assistance except one cleaning lady who has no ability to help. Check in is on line and I got emailed a code for the entrance door. Another code let me into my room containing 3 bunk beds, one chair and some lockers. In addition to these luxurious offerings, there was a women's bathroom down the hall, with toilets, sinks and showers with lukewarm water.
There was no kitchen or lounge area and no patio or outside rest area. No laundry facilities which is a problem for a pilgrim who only has 2 sets of clothes. Luckily there was wifi.
While I did get a day off from walking, I was glad to say goodbye to this Albergue. Buen Camino!Læs mere
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Dag 10
mandag den 18. august 2025 kl. 10.30
☁️ 20 °C
Højde: 136 m
Spanien Redondela 42.317786, -8.60675842°19’4” N 8°36’24” W
Vigo to Arcade, Spain
18. august, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
August 18, 2025. Vigo to Arcade. 23.32 km, but one of the steepest areas on this route. Before dawn, I walked a couple of km to the bus station, which was a real life bus station this time, and I cut a few kilometers off my day and avoided the steepest part of today's trail by taking the bus for a short ride. Then on I walked through more hilly and forested areas to Arcade where I was rewarded with a great Albergue. There are people here to welcome the pilgrims, an outdoor pool, lounge area, bar, restaurant, laundry facilities and supper and breakfast are included, I'm here for two nights and am loving it already!Læs mere
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Dag 11
tirsdag den 19. august 2025 kl. 11.30
☀️ 22 °C
Højde: 13 m
Spanien A Calle 42.3425, -8.60808142°20’33” N 8°36’29” W
Arcade, Spain
19. august, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
August 19th was a rest day. I walked downtown enjoying the scenery of Spain while they went about their day. I saw the famous Camino almond cake in the store, but wasn't willing to carry it in my pack.Læs mere
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Dag 12
onsdag den 20. august 2025 kl. 10.00
☀️ 18 °C
Højde: 126 m
Spanien Pontevedra 42.365669, -8.6186542°21’56” N 8°37’7” W
Arcade to Pontevedra, Spain
20. august, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
August 20, 2025 . 14 km. My "shadow" is taller and slimmer than I am! Hahaha. Today was a shorter walk and I spent some of it with Michelle from New Zealand, who had a company organize her Camino and move her backpack ahead each day.
We walked through farmland and forest, seeing sheep and horses grazing. Tractors passed us occasionally and we came across a few pop up cafes in the woods where coffees and fruit could be had. Beun Camino!Læs mere
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Dag 12
onsdag den 20. august 2025 kl. 15.00
☁️ 25 °C
Højde: 23 m
Spanien Pontevedra 42.426703, -8.63900642°25’36” N 8°38’20” W
Pontevedra artwork
20. august, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
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Dag 12
onsdag den 20. august 2025 kl. 18.00
⛅ 25 °C
Højde: 23 m
Spanien Pontevedra 42.430767, -8.64397542°25’51” N 8°38’38” W
The Pilgrim's Church
20. august, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
At Pontevedra, my favourite spot was the Pilgrims Church built in the shape of a scallop shell, which is the sign of the Camino. I went to a Spanish pilgrim's mass here after supper. This is the first pilgrim's mass I've found on the Portuguese Coastal Camino, whereas they were found just about every night on the French Way. The voices of Alleluia rose in the circular nave like those of angels. So beautiful! Beun Camino!Læs mere
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Dag 12
onsdag den 20. august 2025 kl. 20.00
⛅ 24 °C
Højde: 39 m
Spanien Pontevedra 42.431128, -8.64274242°25’52” N 8°38’34” W
Evening in Pontevedra
20. august, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
The Franciscan church was very different from the Pilgrim's Church, but still beautiful.
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Dag 12
onsdag den 20. august 2025 kl. 21.00
☀️ 23 °C
Højde: 27 m
Spanien Pontevedra 42.430869, -8.64426442°25’51” N 8°38’39” W
Everyone gathered at the square
20. august, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Bagpiper and drum, bubbles and more. The square was full of people strolling and enjoying the summer evening.
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Dag 13
torsdag den 21. august 2025 kl. 07.20
🌙 15 °C
Højde: 45 m
Spanien O Convento 42.446147, -8.68546742°26’46” N 8°41’8” W
The Spiritual Variant
21. august, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 15 °C
August 21, 2025. Pontevedra to Combarro, Spain. 13 kilometers. This picture is how I think I look while walking the Camino - so serene and peaceful. But in reality, I'm a sweaty, red-faced mess and although it's hot and really difficult at times, it's also very rewarding.
Today I left Pontevedra in a swarm of pilgrims who were all chatting and it was like being a part of a busy beehive that was always buzzing. Some groups had a guide leading them, while others were walking their own Camino, but all were less than 60 kilometers from Santiago which would be their end goal.
And then we came to a junction and I turned onto the Spiritual Variant Camino and just like that all the noise was gone. The crowd went from 100 to about 20 pilgrims and I could hear the birds again. The atmosphere changed from an excited, buzzing energy to a quiet, calm pace again.
The Spiritual Variant is a loop of the Camino that adds kilometers to the trail, and follows the last part of the journey of the Apostle St James' remains which are now held in the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral. Buen Camino!Læs mere
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Dag 13
torsdag den 21. august 2025 kl. 12.09
☀️ 23 °C
Højde: 13 m
Spanien Poio 42.433039, -8.70534242°25’59” N 8°42’19” W
The Shoreline to Cambarro, Spain
21. august, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
The tide's out as I walked this shoreline where monuments reminded me a bit of Outlander. Would I get sucked into the stones and cast back through time?
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Dag 13
torsdag den 21. august 2025 kl. 17.00
☀️ 28 °C
Højde: 7 m
Spanien Poio 42.434083, -8.70508342°26’3” N 8°42’18” W
Witches, Granaries and more
21. august, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
The Spiritual Variant is deep in the province of Galicia where there are many churches, monasteries and religious statues, but there's also witches around every corner. These people are deeply religious and strongly superstitious at the same time . The culture is Spanish, with Celtic, Viking and French influences and it all makes for a fascinating part of the world. Buen Camino!Læs mere
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Dag 14
fredag den 22. august 2025 kl. 08.30
☀️ 16 °C
Højde: 272 m
Spanien Meis 42.464083, -8.74171742°27’51” N 8°44’30” W
Combarro to Vilanova de Arousa
22. august, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
34 kilometers. This part of the Camino would normally be divided into two days for my calibre of pilgrim. But, accommodation shortages dictated that I have to do this in one day. 34 kms is way beyond my tolerance and the first 10 kms today is a very steep climb up a mountain. With projected temperatures in the high 20's, I made the decision to hire a taxi to take me to Armentiera which took 10 km off the day's total and skipped the hardest part.
So with 24 kilometers still to go, which is about my maximum daily walking distance, I headed off through mossy forests following a creek down the mountain side. This area is full of ancient mills that would have been powered by this creek and some of the buildings still have their mill stones intact. It was like walking back in time and it was easy to imagine the locals bring their grain here to get ground into flour.
Forests gave way to fields of corn taller than I am, and still further along I came to vineyards heavy with clusters of grapes. Occasionally a tractor would pass by and I was reminded that most people are working hard around me, not on a Camino pilgrimage holiday. Buen Camino!Læs mere
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Dag 14
fredag den 22. august 2025 kl. 11.00
☀️ 27 °C
Højde: 97 m
Portugal Coimbra 40.270515, -8.45983540°16’14” N 8°27’35” W
Vineyards and Beaches
22. august, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
Today was a long, hard and hot walk. My heart kept reminding me that it would be worth it, while my brain was trying to organise a mutiny against the whole operation. Luckily my feet aren't talking to the top half of my body and just kept plodding along until I arrived at Vilanova de Arousa.
My day ended at the seashore where lots of people were swimming in the turquoise waters or sunbathing on the white sand. After I dropped my gear off at my Albergue, I returned to one of these beaches and cooled off in the ocean wearing my sweaty walking clothes. Although I wasn't the most stylish one at the beach, I was probably the happiest! Buen Camino!Læs mere
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Dag 15
lørdag den 23. august 2025 kl. 13.30
☀️ 26 °C
Højde: Havoverfladen
Spanien Vilanova de Arousa 42.562072, -8.83092542°33’43” N 8°49’51” W
Vilanova de Arousa to Padron
23. august, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
32 kilometers. This lovely boat was my chariot to Padron. Our route headed out to sea where the water is scattered with wooden rafts used to grow mollusks. We saw one boat harvesting the creatures that grow on ropes hanging into the water.
Then we headed past a series of islands that bear cement crosses to mark the route that St. James' body followed when he was brought to Spain after being beheaded in Jerusalem, according to the information sign. Our captain explained all this in Spanish, but I only understand the odd word here and there.
After docking, I still had a couple of kilometers to walk in the blistering heat. That's when I discovered that I missed pre- booking accommodation for Padron. Every albergue that I checked was fully booked! I had a choice of going to a more expensive option, or taking a taxi to another town which would have cost about the same amount. I got a hotel room for 64 euros and got checked in.
I was really brave tonight. I went to the Pulperia Real restaurant and had two Galician favourites - pulpa (octopus) and hadron peppers. Both were good but way too much food for one person. Buen Camino!Læs mere
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Dag 16
søndag den 24. august 2025 kl. 07.09
⛅ 15 °C
Højde: 89 m
Spanien Teo 42.813014, -8.62207542°48’47” N 8°37’19” W
Padron to O Milladoiro
24. august, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
17.61 kilometers. Using my headlamp, I left before dawn today to beat the heat. Roosters were crowing as I passed farmhouses, and sheep were in the pastures, but otherwise, all was quiet on this misty morning.
As the day progressed, many more pilgrims joined the trail and most of today was a steady climb up towards Santiago. At one fork in the trail a bagpiper played us a jaunty tune. The Celtic influence introduced bagpipes here a longtime ago, but their songs are different from the Scottish ones I've heard.
At another part of the Camino, a man serenaded us with his guitar. His voice was rich and pleasant and he even had a stamp for our credentials. Another stamp was available when we lined up in the lobby of a stone church. These stamps are how pilgrims prove they walked the Camino and each credential will be inspected in Santiago before a certificate of completion is issued.
The Spanish police were patrolling the Camino on horseback today and we actually ran into them two different times. Other times I've seen police cars near the trail as Spain takes the safety of the pilgrims very seriously, and it does feel very safe on the Camino and in the Albergues.
I do have a hip and a knee that are starting to complain, but I'm nearly at Santiago de Compostela. Hopefully my body holds out to the end! Buen Camino!Læs mere
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Dag 16
søndag den 24. august 2025 kl. 10.00
☀️ 18 °C
Højde: 89 m
Spanien Teo 42.813014, -8.62207542°48’47” N 8°37’19” W
O Milladoiro
24. august, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
Visiting churches, getting the pilgrims' credentials stamped and getting serenaded on the Camino becomes a part of this very simple, but difficult life. As I approach the end of my walk, a bittersweet mood develops because it will be good to celebrate the end, but it will also be hard to say goodbye to my Portuguese trail.Læs mere
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