Portuguese Coastal Camino

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旅行の開始
2025年8月9日
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日3
2025年8月11日月曜日 9:30
☁️ 18 °C
海抜: 11 m
ポルトガル Vila do Conde 41.280311, -8.72944741°16’49” N 8°43’46” W
Day 1 Porto to Vila do Conde
8月11日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
23.25 km Train to Matosinhos to cut 10 kilometers off my day. After having my flight cancelled in Montreal due to mechanical issues, I finally made it to Porto, Portugal and started my Portuguese Coastal Camino. As I walked on a boardwalk alongside the mighty Atlantic ocean, the crashing waves and jagged rocky shore emphasized why this area is the Costa Morta or death coast. Many ships and sailors have perished here, but the sounds of the ocean, children laughing and the tapping my walking poles created a private symphony that made this coast a paradise for me. Bom Caminho!もっと詳しく
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日4
2025年8月12日火曜日 11:30
☁️ 22 °C
海抜: 9 m
ポルトガル Póvoa de Varzim 41.3952, -8.77782241°23’43” N 8°46’40” W
Day 2 - Vila do Conde to Esposende
8月12日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
23.70 kilometers August 12th - Vila do Conde to Esposende, Portugal. My route took me along the coast again, past ancient windmills, and seaweed harvesting farmers today. I recognized what the farmer was doing because I recently watched a movie where a fellow was harvesting "Irish moss" in PEI. The seaweed can be added to fields as natural fertilizer and this farmer uses it for fields of polenta. I proudly used my rusty French to explain the process to a very confused Hungarian pilgrim.
Step by step, muscles aching, and the mind questioning the sanity of this activity, I made it to my Albergue by 2 pm. I keep reminding myself, it's not the grandiose accomplishments that matter in the end, but the small, continual ways that we push ourselves to be our best selves, and that perseverance makes the biggest difference in life.もっと詳しく
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日4
2025年8月12日火曜日 13:31
☁️ 26 °C
海抜: 14 m
ポルトガル Esposende 41.482261, -8.7646541°28’56” N 8°45’53” W
The trail to Esposende
8月12日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C
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日5
2025年8月13日水曜日 7:10
⛅ 18 °C
海抜: 7 m
ポルトガル Esposende 41.52415, -8.77584241°31’27” N 8°46’33” W
Day 3 Esposende to Vila Nova de Anha
8月13日, ポルトガル ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
20.01 km. Today we left the beaches and urban areas behind and climbed hills. Luckily they weren't super steep, but it was a really good workout by the end of the day and the 26C temperature felt so hot. I held my head under several public fountains along the way which was heavenly.
I walked for a while with a couple from Italy and had lunch with two Venezuelan ladies that currently live in Madrid. And then I took the time to book the rest of my Albergues (hostels) for my walk.
This is the busy season for the Camino, so I have been having trouble finding accommodations that line up with my walking endurance. While I am okay walking long distances and sleeping in dorms, I draw the line at sleeping in the ditch, which I was becoming worried about.
Actually that made me remember when my family drove our herd of cattle home from pasture by horseback when I was a teenager. It took two days to get them home and we did sleep in the ditch like cowboys of old with our horses tethered nearby. I guess that means I've turned picky in my old age!もっと詳しく
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日5
2025年8月13日水曜日 10:06
☀️ 22 °C
海抜: 33 m
ポルトガル Viana do Castelo 41.66685, -8.79912841°40’1” N 8°47’57” W
Trail to Vila Nova de Anha
8月13日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
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日6
2025年8月14日木曜日 10:01
☀️ 23 °C
海抜: 68 m
ポルトガル Viana do Castelo 41.669908, -8.79596741°40’12” N 8°47’45” W
Vila Nova de Anha -Vila Praia de Ancora
8月14日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Day 4 - 21.40 kilometers. I had just finished crossing a long bridge over waters dotted with fishing boats when I heard drums beating nearby. I turned from my trail and came to a central square crowded with people. Obviously a festival was in full swing and I watched a drum group in traditional dress play. They were followed by another group that was half bagpipes and half drums. A third group represented a more traditional marching band with players of all ages. To the side were these large "people" and many locals were trying on the heads. I still had many kilometers to go or I would have stayed to see more. What an opportunity! Bom Caminho!もっと詳しく
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日6–9
2025年8月14日 13:12〜2025年8月17日
3泊
☀️ 27 °C
海抜: 57 m
ポルトガル Viana do Castelo 41.773117, -8.84673641°46’23” N 8°50’48” W
Soup on the trail
8月14日〜17日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
After a hot and hilly walk through the forest, an oasis was found serving pea soup and hummus with pita chips.
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日7
2025年8月15日金曜日 7:08
☀️ 19 °C
海抜: 5 m
ポルトガル Vila Praia de Âncora 41.8154, -8.86671441°48’55” N 8°52’0” W
Vila Praia de Ancora to Sabaris
8月15日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
Day 5 - 49.43 km. Now if you pay attention to the kilometres of my stages, you'll notice a huge jump today which might make you think I suddenly became the bionic woman. Not so.
Today I crossed from Portugal into Spain aboard a small boat from Xacobeo transfer company. But many of us pilgrims are now facing a shortage of Albergues to stay in. It is high season and town after town are fully booked. So I ended up taking a bus from A Guarda to Sabaris.
Google and I are currently not speaking after it decided to lead me on a merry chase all over A Guarda to the bus stop. The first time that Google proudly announced that I had arrived was at an overgrown rocky lot between some houses. A bus couldn't even get in there!
The second time Google delivered me to an actual bus stop way out on the edge of town with no indication if a bus would come at all.
As I headed back into a more populated area, a local man walking his dog became my rescuer. Communicating through Google translate, he let me know today's a holiday and only one bus will come at 2:30 pm. Other days there's a bus every hour. He led me to the proper bus stop and told me that he would drive by there at 4. If I was still there, he'd take me to Sabaris himself.
Luckily the bus arrived and I'm at my Albergue in Sabaris waiting for my laundry to dry. This was my Albergue in Sabaris. The privacy curtains make the bunk bed seem quite glamorous! Buen Camino (Spanish)!もっと詳しく
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日8
2025年8月16日土曜日 6:48
☁️ 17 °C
海抜: 57 m
スペイン Vigo 42.182783, -8.789142°10’58” N 8°47’21” W
Sabaris to Vigo, Spain
8月16日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
22.86 kilometers - I left before dawn and enjoyed walking through quiet streets in cool temperatures. Today was lots of steep hills through forest, with rocky terrain. After 4 hours of this type of walking without any cafes or stops, I lucked out in seeing a sign to take a small pathway to a promised restaurant. I felt a bit like Red Riding Hood. Should I take the shortcut? Is a Big Bad Wolf waiting? Well, I did take the path and was rewarded with a lovely breakfast at a beautiful restaurant! So the fairytale isn't always right! Buen Camino!もっと詳しく
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日8
2025年8月16日土曜日 23:00
⛅ 18 °C
海抜: 93 m
スペイン Vigo 42.228903, -8.71949742°13’44” N 8°43’10” W
Vigo Ghost hotel
8月16日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
August 16 and 17 - I stayed at the Vigo Beds and Rooms for 2 nights so I could have a rest day. It looks modern and clean in the picture right? It was, but that's where the fun ended. This is what locals call a Ghost hotel. Not for being haunted, but because there's no staff, no reception, no assistance except one cleaning lady who has no ability to help. Check in is on line and I got emailed a code for the entrance door. Another code let me into my room containing 3 bunk beds, one chair and some lockers. In addition to these luxurious offerings, there was a women's bathroom down the hall, with toilets, sinks and showers with lukewarm water.
There was no kitchen or lounge area and no patio or outside rest area. No laundry facilities which is a problem for a pilgrim who only has 2 sets of clothes. Luckily there was wifi.
While I did get a day off from walking, I was glad to say goodbye to this Albergue. Buen Camino!もっと詳しく
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日10
2025年8月18日月曜日 10:30
☁️ 20 °C
海抜: 136 m
スペイン Redondela 42.317786, -8.60675842°19’4” N 8°36’24” W
Vigo to Arcade, Spain
8月18日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
August 18, 2025. Vigo to Arcade. 23.32 km, but one of the steepest areas on this route. Before dawn, I walked a couple of km to the bus station, which was a real life bus station this time, and I cut a few kilometers off my day and avoided the steepest part of today's trail by taking the bus for a short ride. Then on I walked through more hilly and forested areas to Arcade where I was rewarded with a great Albergue. There are people here to welcome the pilgrims, an outdoor pool, lounge area, bar, restaurant, laundry facilities and supper and breakfast are included, I'm here for two nights and am loving it already!もっと詳しく
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日11
2025年8月19日火曜日 11:30
☀️ 22 °C
海抜: 13 m
スペイン A Calle 42.3425, -8.60808142°20’33” N 8°36’29” W
Arcade, Spain
8月19日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
August 19th was a rest day. I walked downtown enjoying the scenery of Spain while they went about their day. I saw the famous Camino almond cake in the store, but wasn't willing to carry it in my pack.もっと詳しく
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日12
2025年8月20日水曜日 10:00
☀️ 18 °C
海抜: 126 m
スペイン Pontevedra 42.365669, -8.6186542°21’56” N 8°37’7” W
Arcade to Pontevedra, Spain
8月20日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
August 20, 2025 . 14 km. My "shadow" is taller and slimmer than I am! Hahaha. Today was a shorter walk and I spent some of it with Michelle from New Zealand, who had a company organize her Camino and move her backpack ahead each day.
We walked through farmland and forest, seeing sheep and horses grazing. Tractors passed us occasionally and we came across a few pop up cafes in the woods where coffees and fruit could be had. Beun Camino!もっと詳しく
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日12
2025年8月20日水曜日 15:00
☁️ 25 °C
海抜: 23 m
スペイン Pontevedra 42.426703, -8.63900642°25’36” N 8°38’20” W
Pontevedra artwork
8月20日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
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日12
2025年8月20日水曜日 18:00
⛅ 25 °C
海抜: 23 m
スペイン Pontevedra 42.430767, -8.64397542°25’51” N 8°38’38” W
The Pilgrim's Church
8月20日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
At Pontevedra, my favourite spot was the Pilgrims Church built in the shape of a scallop shell, which is the sign of the Camino. I went to a Spanish pilgrim's mass here after supper. This is the first pilgrim's mass I've found on the Portuguese Coastal Camino, whereas they were found just about every night on the French Way. The voices of Alleluia rose in the circular nave like those of angels. So beautiful! Beun Camino!もっと詳しく
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日12
2025年8月20日水曜日 20:00
⛅ 24 °C
海抜: 39 m
スペイン Pontevedra 42.431128, -8.64274242°25’52” N 8°38’34” W
Evening in Pontevedra
8月20日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
The Franciscan church was very different from the Pilgrim's Church, but still beautiful.
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日12
2025年8月20日水曜日 21:00
☀️ 23 °C
海抜: 27 m
スペイン Pontevedra 42.430869, -8.64426442°25’51” N 8°38’39” W
Everyone gathered at the square
8月20日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Bagpiper and drum, bubbles and more. The square was full of people strolling and enjoying the summer evening.
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日13
2025年8月21日木曜日 7:20
🌙 15 °C
海抜: 45 m
スペイン O Convento 42.446147, -8.68546742°26’46” N 8°41’8” W
The Spiritual Variant
8月21日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 15 °C
August 21, 2025. Pontevedra to Combarro, Spain. 13 kilometers. This picture is how I think I look while walking the Camino - so serene and peaceful. But in reality, I'm a sweaty, red-faced mess and although it's hot and really difficult at times, it's also very rewarding.
Today I left Pontevedra in a swarm of pilgrims who were all chatting and it was like being a part of a busy beehive that was always buzzing. Some groups had a guide leading them, while others were walking their own Camino, but all were less than 60 kilometers from Santiago which would be their end goal.
And then we came to a junction and I turned onto the Spiritual Variant Camino and just like that all the noise was gone. The crowd went from 100 to about 20 pilgrims and I could hear the birds again. The atmosphere changed from an excited, buzzing energy to a quiet, calm pace again.
The Spiritual Variant is a loop of the Camino that adds kilometers to the trail, and follows the last part of the journey of the Apostle St James' remains which are now held in the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral. Buen Camino!もっと詳しく
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日13
2025年8月21日木曜日 12:09
☀️ 23 °C
海抜: 13 m
スペイン Poio 42.433039, -8.70534242°25’59” N 8°42’19” W
The Shoreline to Cambarro, Spain
8月21日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
The tide's out as I walked this shoreline where monuments reminded me a bit of Outlander. Would I get sucked into the stones and cast back through time?
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日13
2025年8月21日木曜日 17:00
☀️ 28 °C
海抜: 7 m
スペイン Poio 42.434083, -8.70508342°26’3” N 8°42’18” W
Witches, Granaries and more
8月21日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
The Spiritual Variant is deep in the province of Galicia where there are many churches, monasteries and religious statues, but there's also witches around every corner. These people are deeply religious and strongly superstitious at the same time . The culture is Spanish, with Celtic, Viking and French influences and it all makes for a fascinating part of the world. Buen Camino!もっと詳しく
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日14
2025年8月22日金曜日 8:30
☀️ 16 °C
海抜: 272 m
スペイン Meis 42.464083, -8.74171742°27’51” N 8°44’30” W
Combarro to Vilanova de Arousa
8月22日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
34 kilometers. This part of the Camino would normally be divided into two days for my calibre of pilgrim. But, accommodation shortages dictated that I have to do this in one day. 34 kms is way beyond my tolerance and the first 10 kms today is a very steep climb up a mountain. With projected temperatures in the high 20's, I made the decision to hire a taxi to take me to Armentiera which took 10 km off the day's total and skipped the hardest part.
So with 24 kilometers still to go, which is about my maximum daily walking distance, I headed off through mossy forests following a creek down the mountain side. This area is full of ancient mills that would have been powered by this creek and some of the buildings still have their mill stones intact. It was like walking back in time and it was easy to imagine the locals bring their grain here to get ground into flour.
Forests gave way to fields of corn taller than I am, and still further along I came to vineyards heavy with clusters of grapes. Occasionally a tractor would pass by and I was reminded that most people are working hard around me, not on a Camino pilgrimage holiday. Buen Camino!もっと詳しく
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日14
2025年8月22日金曜日 11:00
☀️ 27 °C
海抜: 97 m
ポルトガル Coimbra 40.270515, -8.45983540°16’14” N 8°27’35” W
Vineyards and Beaches
8月22日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
Today was a long, hard and hot walk. My heart kept reminding me that it would be worth it, while my brain was trying to organise a mutiny against the whole operation. Luckily my feet aren't talking to the top half of my body and just kept plodding along until I arrived at Vilanova de Arousa.
My day ended at the seashore where lots of people were swimming in the turquoise waters or sunbathing on the white sand. After I dropped my gear off at my Albergue, I returned to one of these beaches and cooled off in the ocean wearing my sweaty walking clothes. Although I wasn't the most stylish one at the beach, I was probably the happiest! Buen Camino!もっと詳しく
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日15
2025年8月23日土曜日 13:30
☀️ 26 °C
海抜: 海水位
スペイン Vilanova de Arousa 42.562072, -8.83092542°33’43” N 8°49’51” W
Vilanova de Arousa to Padron
8月23日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
32 kilometers. This lovely boat was my chariot to Padron. Our route headed out to sea where the water is scattered with wooden rafts used to grow mollusks. We saw one boat harvesting the creatures that grow on ropes hanging into the water.
Then we headed past a series of islands that bear cement crosses to mark the route that St. James' body followed when he was brought to Spain after being beheaded in Jerusalem, according to the information sign. Our captain explained all this in Spanish, but I only understand the odd word here and there.
After docking, I still had a couple of kilometers to walk in the blistering heat. That's when I discovered that I missed pre- booking accommodation for Padron. Every albergue that I checked was fully booked! I had a choice of going to a more expensive option, or taking a taxi to another town which would have cost about the same amount. I got a hotel room for 64 euros and got checked in.
I was really brave tonight. I went to the Pulperia Real restaurant and had two Galician favourites - pulpa (octopus) and hadron peppers. Both were good but way too much food for one person. Buen Camino!もっと詳しく
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日16
2025年8月24日日曜日 7:09
⛅ 15 °C
海抜: 89 m
スペイン Teo 42.813014, -8.62207542°48’47” N 8°37’19” W
Padron to O Milladoiro
8月24日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
17.61 kilometers. Using my headlamp, I left before dawn today to beat the heat. Roosters were crowing as I passed farmhouses, and sheep were in the pastures, but otherwise, all was quiet on this misty morning.
As the day progressed, many more pilgrims joined the trail and most of today was a steady climb up towards Santiago. At one fork in the trail a bagpiper played us a jaunty tune. The Celtic influence introduced bagpipes here a longtime ago, but their songs are different from the Scottish ones I've heard.
At another part of the Camino, a man serenaded us with his guitar. His voice was rich and pleasant and he even had a stamp for our credentials. Another stamp was available when we lined up in the lobby of a stone church. These stamps are how pilgrims prove they walked the Camino and each credential will be inspected in Santiago before a certificate of completion is issued.
The Spanish police were patrolling the Camino on horseback today and we actually ran into them two different times. Other times I've seen police cars near the trail as Spain takes the safety of the pilgrims very seriously, and it does feel very safe on the Camino and in the Albergues.
I do have a hip and a knee that are starting to complain, but I'm nearly at Santiago de Compostela. Hopefully my body holds out to the end! Buen Camino!もっと詳しく
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Portuguese Coastal Camino Olddustyboots.com
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日16
2025年8月24日日曜日 10:00
☀️ 18 °C
海抜: 89 m
スペイン Teo 42.813014, -8.62207542°48’47” N 8°37’19” W
O Milladoiro
8月24日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
Visiting churches, getting the pilgrims' credentials stamped and getting serenaded on the Camino becomes a part of this very simple, but difficult life. As I approach the end of my walk, a bittersweet mood develops because it will be good to celebrate the end, but it will also be hard to say goodbye to my Portuguese trail.もっと詳しく
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