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Japan 2023

May 2023
  • Karen Long
This will be our second trip to Japan. 2 guitars shows two weeks apart, revisiting some places and exploring some new ones. Read more
  • Karen Long

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  • Karen LongTravelerJapan 2023
    Mt Aso Crater
    This is what we have to make a run for if she blows.Toxic fumes.The pretty fields just below the ash line.The Azealas are flowering everywhere.So many horses, they are big ones too.This one took a liking to Graham.

    Mt Aso Naka-dake 1st Crater

    May 20, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    A visit to see the Mt Aso the most active volcano in Japan. It’s closed to the public a lot of the time because of the poisonous gases it emits, so we were lucky to see it. Fascinating, but one of the most inhospitable places I’ve ever seen. The top of the mountains is so barren and hostile looking but when you get down below a certain level it is so green and lush, with flowers blooming everywhere.

    It certainly is a twisty windy road up through these mountain, none of the places we’re visiting are very far apart and they all basically circle Mt Aso but it’s a bit of a torturous path to get to them.
    Graham is embracing his inner rally driver! I had a go as well, much more fun when you’re the one driving.

    Our accomodation for tonight says you can book in between 3 and 7 and we made it there with two minutes to spare. This is a ramshackle old place run by three old guys, talk about needing a facelift this place could do with a major overhaul. Obviously their usual clientele don’t worry about the aesthetics too much. There are quite a few motor bike riders staying here with us. Not the biker kind more like the middle age crisis kind.
    Anyway the room was clean and so was the loo. If there was a bathroom somewhere we couldn’t find it, guess one night without a shower won’t hurt us. It’s in the middle of nowhere so dinner was a bit of a dilemma as well but they whipped up something for us in the lovely hygienic kitchen.    Read more

  • Karen LongTravelerJapan 2023
    Water wheel
    Brigde across the river.A massive amount of water must come through here.Castle ruins.There is always a shrine.So many flowersIn so many colours.Even more coloursHe's still got it.Gave the locals a laugh.

    Kuju Plateau

    May 21, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We have a few things to see on the way to Kurosawa this morning. First up is a pretty waterfall only 6 or 7 ks from where we stayed last night. Harajiri Waterfall. I thought this waterfall would be out in the middle of nowhere but no there was a huge complex next to it ready to accommodate the tourist masses who luckily hadn’t turned up yet.
    That set the theme for the rest of the morning. We beat the tourist busses for most of the day.
    Next stop was the Ota Castle Ruins. Must have been a massive complex in its day, it seemed to go on forever and the views from up there where spectacular.
    Then on to Kuju flower park, more like a botanical gardens really. Another place I thought would just be a little garden. The Japanese sure know how to expand on a good thing. Incredible number and variety of flowers.
    Then on to Kokome Suspension Bridge. Built to showcase the amazing views of the Naruko-gawa Gorge and the 3 waterfalls there. It a little hairy to walk across, so high and moves around a bit, plus you can see down through the grating to the valley floor.

    Next stop Kurokawa Onsen.    Read more

  • Karen LongTravelerJapan 2023
    Kurokawa
    This is the street we drove in on.Private onsenTea anyoneSame street at nightimeThe riverYou can cook your eggs in here.

    Kurokawa Onsen

    May 21, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Arrived in Kurokawa following Google maps who lead us straight through the pedestrian walkway through town. Wish I’d had a video, the road was getting narrower and narrower. Tourists jumping out of the way everywhere.

    We are booked into a ryokan here which is a traditional Japanese Inn that offers a place to rest as well as traditional dining. They are often found around hot springs. Onsens are the hot springs and the facilities that surround them. Ours is both a ryokan and an Onsen. Usually they are public baths with seperate male and female Onsens but sometimes they have private ones you can use.
    We booked for a private Onsen, had a cup of tea while we waited. Crimes this Onsen is so hot, takes a bit of getting used to. They only let you book for half an hour. I can see why, you would be soft boiled if you stayed any longer.
    We tried out the public bath in the afternoon as well. The etiquette for an Onsen is you have to shower off before and after, no tattoos, no clothing, no towels in the water. Anyhow when in Rome etc etc.

    Dinner is a very elaborate affair at a Ryokan and to be honest probably more of an attraction than the Onsen for us. Wow so many plates of food and just when you thought you were finished more arrived.

    We went for a walk a round town after dinner, lots of people out in their yakatas Onsen hopping. Another attraction staying here is you can try out other Onsens. There is a lovely river flowing through Kurokawa and it is just as pretty at nighttime.    Read more

  • Karen LongTravelerJapan 2023
    Yeah were pretty happy!
    BreakfastAn actual good coffeeSo many rice fieldsGlorious views on the way down.Decisions decisons, oh well may as well just get them all.Another amazing restaurantSake!Walking back to find a taxi.

    Kagoshima

    May 22, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    After another decedent meal at Ryokan Wakaba we had a lovely drive across and down the mountain from Kurokawa Onsen. Cypress Pines, bamboo, rice fields and beautiful views over towards the volcano. It is lovely in these mountains we wished we were keeping the car for a few more days.
    Hit some traffic coming into Kumamoto and that slowed us down for a while.
    On the Shinkansen now on our way to Kagoshima.

    Not the best day weather wise when we got to Kagoshima, so what we’d planned for the afternoon didn’t seem like a good idea. After a break at the hotel we headed into town to find Tenmonkan, a city district with bars and restaurants. It didn’t look too inspiring at first but livened up after all the workers started heading home.
    We followed another couple into a bar kitchen. Three young blokes behind the bar, no English menu, lots of sign language and a few odd words on both sides. Goodness these boys were good though.
    Entertaining, skilful, helpful, generous. A couple of people sitting beside us helped us out with food suggestions and communication as well.
    Funniest thing you should have seen the look on the chefs face when I said I wanted another Sake! 😂😂
    Another lovely night to remember. Luckily we still managed to find our way back to the hotel.    Read more

  • Karen LongTravelerJapan 2023
    The Ferry
    The onsen footbathsSukurajimaMore footbaths. I'm sure these will be packed this afternoon.Observation PointLava flowsThe highest observation point. There she blows.View from the ferry!

    Sukurajima Island.

    May 23, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Today is shaping up to be much better weather wise. We are going for a day trip to Sukurajima Island where the volcano is. The ferry goes every 15 minutes and they are big ferries so we’re assuming this island gets a lot of traffic.

    Kogashima is a little harder to get around, well at least from our hotel so we are taxiing it while here. The drivers are funny, they always wait to make sure your going in the right direction when you get out, and they are so worried when you don’t and so pleased when you do.

    It’s only a 15 min ride over to the island, we visited the footpath, visitors centre which had a nice exhibition on volcanos, got a day ticket for the island bus, got on and off a few times at observation points and then at a nice little restaurant for lunch.
    It’s a shame we don’t still have the car, it would have been great here, the bus only does a small section of the island and there look to be some interesting places you can only get to with a car.
    Well we came to see the volcano and we certainly got some spectacular views of it today.

    Heading back onto the ferry after lunch and yes we can see why they need so many. So many cars and tourist buses lining up waiting to get on. Once again I’m glad we head out early to sightsee the afternoon are always so much busier.    Read more

  • Karen LongTravelerJapan 2023
    Very modest outside.
    The menuThese are all souchu bottlesSome of the foodGraham making friendsOur friendly neighboursThe lovely staff

    Kushikou

    May 23, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    There is another city district Meizancho, known for bars and neighbourhood kitchens so after a little google search to locate a likely one we set off to find it.

    Got the same taxi driver as last night and he dropped us within meters of where we wanted to go. This is only a tiny place, looks like the front of someone’s house. Busy, busy though so that’s a good sign.

    No English anywhere in here. We just pointed to anything that looked good, which was just about everything coming out of the kitchen. The couple sitting next to us thought everything we did was hilarious and the fact that we ordered everything they did.
    We were the only tourists in there and they were fascinated that we’d picked their restaurant to come to. The lady running it wanted to know how we found them. And why we picked this particular place to come in to.

    We managed a bit of communication thanks to google translate but even then a few things where lost in translation. Made for a few hilarious moments.

    We have seen souchu on the menu a few times and didn’t really know what it was, our new friends had ordered a bottle and poured us a couple of glasses. OMG so strong and tasted like petrol to me. Graham didn’t seem to mind it and finished off his and mine. He was all ready to go back for another refill but we have to be on a Shinkansen early tomorrow so I saved him and dragged him out of there.

    Big hugs from the staff and neighbours as we were leaving. I’m always amazed how much interaction we have with the people we meet. Great memories!    Read more

  • Karen LongTravelerJapan 2023
    Sukurajima is smoking!
    Level 3 warningsJust ,anage tomsee mt fuji from the train window.

    Travel day back to Toyko

    May 24, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Winding our way back to Tokyo on the Shinkansen today. That is going to be most of the day taken up.
    We did have a very exciting morning though when we pulled back the curtains the volcano was spewing out smoke and ash like nobody’s business. Level 3 volcano warnings are in place today. I’m sure it’s a regular occurrence here but it was a dramatic farewell from Kagoshima for us.
    We had to change trains at Osaka with only a quick turnover of about 15 minutes and now we are on the last leg to Tokyo. Beautiful clear day so we are hoping to see Mt Fuji on the way.
    We did see it but it was a bit of a poor specimen!    Read more

  • Karen LongTravelerJapan 2023
    The big boys
    Taste testingTsukiji Fish MarketSome live actionHes going overOh no poor man. So painful!Getting wheeled awayLots of slapping going on in this one.Ha ha some good leg raises going on here.The opening ceremony for the senior division.Down in the good seats.

    Sumo Day!

    May 25, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We have tickets for the Sumo Wrestling today. It goes all day but we think that might be a bit much so we are off to visit the fish market this morning first.
    We broke the golden rule of being early and by the time we got there it was crowded. Interesting place to look around though, lots of different food to buy and eat. Of course we had to sample a few of them.

    The sumo wrestling starts with the novices in the morning and gets to the more experienced wrestlers as the day goes on. We saw a few of the morning ones heading home on the train. The stadium is massive, would have to be as big as Rod Laver Arena if not bigger.
    It’s a very ritualised affair. They have announcer who calls out the name of each wrestler to the ring in song. Then the referee comes in, then the wrestlers. There is lots of clapping , arm raising, leg raising and belly slapping for a while. the bouts starts when both the wrestlers are behind their line. It’s a little like chicken, someone has to break first and then it’s on. It’s all very exciting sometimes for a few seconds, occasionally for a few minutes.

    The matches got more intense and the crowd more involved as the day went along. Our tickets where for the balcony seats, and since there were lots of empty seats closer we moved closer to the action. The lower level which is closer to the action again was booked out. I had read though that a lot of people don’t get there until about four when the senior division is on, so after a while we went down to see if we could sneak in. They had an usher on each door and I didn’t think we’d have much luck but Graham sweet talked one of them into letting us in. It was great up close to the action, except for when one poor guy went over on his knee and had to be carried off. We stayed there for a while but then more people started coming in and we didn’t want to get kicked out, so back to the cheap seats.

    It was a great afternoon, we throughly enjoyed it. I can see why it so popular with the Japanese people.

    We wandered around Asakusabashi and found another great little Bar Kitchen to have dinner in. The waitress who opened the door for us nearly had a heart attack, I’m sure she didn’t want to let us in and then was horrified when we wanted to sit at the bar. 😂😂. It’s amazing the amount of food they can prepare in that tiny bit of room behind the bar.    Read more

  • Karen LongTravelerJapan 2023
    Morning walk to skytree
    Pretty fish flags.LunchSweet restaurant

    Hiro, Nori and Tuna Cutting.

    May 26, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Today we are catching up with some friends we met in Australia who have moved back to Japan. Hiro and Nori bought one of our Ukuleles a few years ago and we have kept in touch ever since.
    They are a lovely couple very interested in music and instruments. Hiro has actually made his own guitar and plays as well.
    We had a delicious lunch at a hidden gem of a restaurant, a bit of shopping for Nori and I while the boys went to visit a music shop.

    It seems to us the Japanese like having coffee and sweets more in the afternoon than the morning and we went with Hiro and Nori to a sweet restaurant they called it, for tea and dessert. Interesting desserts nothing like our pavlova or sticky date.

    We have a booking tonight for a Tuna Cutting Show so after leaving our friends we fought our way through the Friday night prime time on the train to Asakusabashi Station. Found Taiko Chaya right on 6.30. We found this place on the internet somehow, just as well because you’d never just stumble upon it. It’s down a dingy little set of stairs underneath street level.

    We came here two nights ago because we thought the tuna show was on every night but no it’s only Friday and Saturday. Well they were all so pleased to see us back. They had saved us a great table and the chef came out to say hello to us. It’s his father who does the tuna cutting. They auction it off to the audience as it’s being cut up. I just about had to tie Graham’s hands down so we didn’t end up taking a tuna steak home.    Read more

  • Karen LongTravelerJapan 2023

    Tokyo Guitar Show

    May 27, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Tokyo Handcrafted Guitar Show is a much smaller affair than Osaka thank goodness. We’d been to visit a Ukulele shop with Hiro and Nori yesterday and they have bought both of the ukuleles. We’re still taking them to the show and they will pick them up on Sunday.
    There are lots of fabulous instrument players in Japan and quite a few of them at this show.
    Graham talked non stop for the two days I think. It’s a huge effort and I guess we will see if anything comes from it. But two of his instruments are staying in Japan and he is pleased with that.    Read more

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