Gypsies on the move

To do a long off-road trip has been our dream for years. To have our house with us in the most beautiful places, To discover other cultures, people and nature. Read more

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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
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Umia salt lake
October 28, 2022 in Iran ⋅ 🌙 14 °C
Umia lake is a huge lake without an exit which is as salty as the dead sea. A large part of irans salt is harvested here.
Astounding beauty!
Traveler Beautiful photos. Are you a group of 8 vehicles?
10/30/22Reply
Traveler Where is the lake though...?🤯
11/14/22Reply
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
On the way past Tabris to Kandovan
October 29, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
Many years of low rainfall have led to Urmia lake drying out more and more creating an erie atmosphere od white salt as far as one can see.
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
Kandovan
October 30, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C
Kandovan is a fully functional ancient village dug into the rocky slopes of a mountain. Transport of everything up and down the slopes is done by donkey.
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
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Zendane Soleyman, Takht-E Soleyman
November 1, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
Zendane Soleyman is a volcanic spring emitting warm calciferous water. Over millenia this calcium built a ring that grew higher and higher to 80meters and was a holy place. A few kms further is Takht-E-Soleymann another holy place where in 600AD King Soleymann stole the "Cross of christianity" in Jerusalem and dedicated it to the temple here. Shortly after, an earthquake created a crack in Zedane allowing the water to flow out, a very bad omen! Shortly after the king of constantinople came to regain the holy cross, and destroyed the temple.
Now what do we learn from this story?
Don't take away other boys toys!Read more
Traveler Please don’t fall in that hole!
11/9/22Reply
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
On the way to Kataleh Khor cave
November 2, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
As we drive over land it is the smiling faces of people greeting us, wanting to take a photo with us and inviting us to come home with them that moves us deeply.
This last wish is very touching, but can also be a real problem, because local habit has it that you ask AT LEAST THREE TIMES before giving up. Today we had one gentleman stop me at a traffic light to invite me. Then he followed us to the next traffic light to then phone a friend and ask him to invite us in english, and then later caught Margot in the store while shopping to ask again. Finally he bought us three cans of Tuna before giving up his quest.
Also very moving is the way people touch their heart while bowing slightly when greeting you.
People are extremely happy to see us and from everywhere they shout "welcome to Iran!"
What a warm, welcoming country!Read more
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
Kataleh Khor cave
November 3, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
Hamadan
November 3, 2022 in Iran ⋅ 🌙 13 °C
We stayed two nights in Hamedan, a previous capital of persia which reflects a very open and tolerant atmosphere with many people speaking English, which is very rare.
The stay was packed full with encounters of people coming to talk with us, led by the phrase "welcome to Iran, we are so happy to have you here"
On the square in the evening one man came to us only for the purpose of saying that we are the first tourists he has seen in many years and that this makes him so happy!
Another very moving encounter: Margot had taken up eye contact with a 10 year boy who then came to us insisting that margot accept his "prayer chain" as a gift.
This chain now hangs in our car accompanying us on our way.Read more
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
Over the pass and on to Bisotun Reliefs
November 4, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C
Leaving Hamedan we crossed the most amazing pass at 2700 meters into a valley full of walnut trees and incredible vistas, to arrive at Bisotun where King Darius (148BC) had his victories engraved in different languages into the side of an incredible rock massiv leading up to 3.500 meters.
A further absolutely huge surface had been prepared for further works but he probably died before.Read more
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
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A mountain tour and on to Kermanshah
November 5, 2022 in Iran ⋅ 🌙 13 °C
Beautiful mountain tour tour today. Didn't quite make the 3.509 meters, but decided to make do with a 1000 meters less.
Traveler Beautiful landscape
11/9/22Reply
Traveler Looking strong and healthy
11/10/22Reply
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
Kermanschah
November 6, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
Kermanshah, relatively close to the Irak border has a wonderful SUK (market) where we topped up on spices, teas and other rarities.
The Tekiyeh Moaven ol Molk house illustrates the miracles from the life of the martyr Hossein in fascinating painted tile walls.
Again, "welcome to Iran" everywhere, from complete strangers!Read more
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
Shirez canyon
November 8, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
Drove into Shirez canyon on the Seymare river today and spent two days there next to a tiny trout farm that grilled us the most amazing trouts, Iran style, crispy and full of spices.
Margot did a day hike alone up the sides of the canyon to beautiful rock pools and to encounters with two local Kurdish on the way to their village with wonderful discussions only with hands and feet.Read more
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
A Morning at the Kuhdasht sheep market
November 9, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
Driving into Kudasht there is suddenly a total traffic jam, grill fires everywhere and hundreds of trucks and shepherds who have brought their sheep to the market. Hundreds, if not more.
It is autumn and the nomads are coming down into the valleys with their flocks to pass the harsh winter. Part of the process is to reduce the number of animals they have to feed through the winter. That happens at the markets.
It is chaos and nothing for the light hearted, with animals herding together, terrified, some running away and some being carried or dragged back to the scales where they are weighed and sold. Everywhere people with bundles of money closing deals. Around Fruit is being sold and meat grilled.
In front of one hut a butcher slaughertered, skinned and prepared two sheep in about 30 minutes with an unbelievable elegance and skill.
And then, one hour later, the trucks and vans leave again with their new loads.
AN UNBELIEVABLE SPECTACLE!Read more
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
Takht-e Nam Canyon. This time on the top
November 9, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
Oh my god what a place to spend the night. At the top of a 300meter deep canyon with the sound of the Seymare river ringing up the walls.
A dream!
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
Detzful and Susa
November 10, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
These two ancient cities have complex water systems to water the city and drive water mills, all dating back to 600 AD and still running today!
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
The gate to your house says who you are
November 10, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C
As we travel through the gates to houses and shops are evident. Each is unique, some with wonderful ornaments as a statement about who lives inside.
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
A million ways to motor cycle
November 10, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C
Motorcycles everywhere! Behind you, in front of you, on the sides and weaving in and out of the traffic. TERRIFYING!
You can motor cycle alone, you can carry your shopping, or maybe a friend as well.
In front of you maybe your wife, and she could be holding your child in her arms. 5 people on a motor cycle! Why not?Read more
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
Schush
November 11, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Schusch is renowned throughout Iran for the prophet Danial from the old testament whose shrine is here.
Our group parked slap bang in the middle of the old city and next to the shrine. It was the police that wanted us here. But you try to drive through narrow alleys and around corners into a parking that is maybe 40m x 40m with five huge trucks.! And to make matters worse, two other huge trucks not belonging to our group were already parked here! Even in our relatively small and low sprinter I sweated blood and tears entering this space, probably the narrowest parking in my life!

We visited the shrine at night, a wonderful calm and respective atmosphere with pilgrims praying and reciting on the floor facing Mecca while children ran around playing.Read more
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
And over the mountains we go!
November 13, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
We are slowly moving towards Isfahan over two high mountain chains both reaching over 3000 meters.
What an unbelievable journey through valleys and peaks with huge hydroelectric dams on the way.
(Comment: We are paying huge attention to not photograph anything along the way that could be interpreted as strategic or political. We are here to discover the beauty of a country and culture so different to ours!)Read more
TravelerStunning photos
11/17/22Reply
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
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On the way
November 14, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C
Traveler Welche wunderbare Weite
11/16/22Reply
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
Nomads coming down from the mountains
November 14, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
These last days, as the winter begins and the first rains and snow fall, you see Nomads and their goats/ sheep everywhere, either moving traditionally by foot and donkey or in the modern way by small van for the family, and by double-level trucks for their goats dogs and donkeys to lower levels where they will spend the winter.
When they arrive they set up housing in tents or put a tarp over an old stone ruin. It is incredible to see how they live and what a hard life they live. And yet they choose this and seem happy in the process.
Here some impressionsRead more
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
Isfahan
November 15, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Arrived this morning in Isfahan and moved into the Abbasi hotel, a previous Caravanserai, for two days of comfort after 6 weeks of Sprinti living. What a pleasure.
First thing was to wash our washing with warm water in the bath tub, and oh my god, I don't want describe the colour of that water!
Then we went off to visit the "Meydan-e Imam" Square built by Shah Abbas I in 1598. An immense square with Palace, 2 moshees and an adjoining Souk market.Read more
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
Abbassi hotel. Oldest hotel in the world
November 16, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C
The Abassi is an old caravanserai on the silk road where traders on their camels used to stop over. For us, two days of shower, bath, large bed, towels breakfast served.
A real Caravanserai!
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
Isfahan, a wierd strange atmosphere!
November 16, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C
Today when walking in town we were called to by an Iranian Lady telling us that there was a three day general strike on and that we should not walk on the big boulevards as there would be demonstrations and police action.
We ended up creeping through back allyways through a dead city. About 95% of shops were actually closed!
IT WAS ERIE!
Everywhere we could observe women without their headscarfs showing their gorgeous thick hair.
Later on we were told that this was not about women's rights, but mainly about the general state of things such as rampant inflation, and corruption which seem to be a huge issue here. Apparently this is the first general strike in Isfahan since the cultural revolution.

The atmosphere was absolutely erie!, with police groups standing everywhere while others drove around, two to a motorcycle with the back one carrying a rifle.
So, we crept through the backstreets, had a great dinner in a nearly empty restaurant and made it an early night in our hotel.Read more
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
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Beautiful Doors and other impressions
November 16, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
Traveler really wonderful doors and impressions. They transport a lot of this special culture
11/20/22Reply
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Gypsies on the move Michael Spies
Anecdotes on travelling
November 17, 2022 in Iran ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C
As we travel, we bump into various quirks of the countries we cross,
One of them is TOILETS in Turkey and Iran!
For our European minds and hygiene they seem terrible, but strangely, in reality are probably the most hygienic way to "do your thing".
A hole in the floor and a hose to clean the most delicate parts. Nothing more! No messed up toilet seats or soiled floors. (However for Europeans a bit of yoga is needed to be able to crouch low).
After the toilet visit, nearly 90% of public toilets have soap in dispensers at the basins, which I have never found in Europe! No matter how terrible the toilet you are nearly guaranteed to find soap in the dispenser when you wash your hands!.
In the meantime we have not only become accustomed to this type of toilet but have become greatest fans of it. It gives you a clean feeling for the rest of the day!
So, don't be surprised if you find a hose next to our toilet in Icking in future!!!!!

TANKING DIESEL in Iran is something you can write a book about!
Diesel costs about 3 cents per liter, which is great, but how to get it?
First, the station has to have a yellow pump which reduces the relevant set to about 75%.
Then there needs to be diesel in the tank. Another 25% gone! Just like that!
Then the station needs to have a chip card with a budget of diesel on it that they can sell, well that reduces the stations by another 50%.
And then there is the issue of how to find out if a station has a card, because not everyone knows this, and besides, the question is where the card is. Who had it last? !!!!!!
So! That reduces your chance to about 5%.
Great! So let's celebrate those three cents diesel price!
Well, there is one alternative, that is to ask a truck driver who happens to be tanking whether one can use his card, (it seems all trucks are state owned and when they stick their card into the pump the sum is booked directly from an account without further payment).
Using this way of getting diesel can be an adventure, ranging from them tanking your car full and not wanting anything for it, through to them pressing the huge pistol designed for monster trucks so hard that diesel comes shooting out of the tank spraying over people the car and many liters on ground which doesn't seem to bother anyone, to finally the version where the truck driver insists on one extra monthly salary from you for having tanked 30 liters and having messed up all your clothes and the car in the process!!!
We have experienced all variants, it is truly traumatic and I start shaking when our tank goes below 50% because I know that it will be the topic of the next 6 hours.

PERSONAL HYGIENE:
Quite an issue when fresh water in our van is rare and you have 3 m2 to move while it is 1 degree outside.
Originally we thought we would be showering outside, but in a country where you shouldn't even show your ankles and where people seem to converge on us in minutes to take a photo with us, this is impossible. So we tried showering indoors in our pull-up shower, however this is a huge action requiring drying of the curtain and the whole car afterwards. So it is only used on christmas, easter and birthdays! So this method has been shelved and we wash in the basin which has been working really well and requires significantly less water.Read more
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