• Michael Spies
  • Michael Spies

Gypsies on the move

To do a long off-road trip has been our dream for years. To have our house with us in the most beautiful places, To discover other cultures, people and nature. もっと詳しく
  • Jebal Akhdar - "lost villages Hike"

    2023年2月7日, オマーン ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Today we hiked the "lost villages" hike, 600 meters down into an incredible gorge along steep slopes with incredible views. Along the way, tiny villages glued to the slopes in the most impossible locations. As Oman developed, these villages were abandoned for the comfort of brick homes. What has not been abandoned are the date palm groves on tiny terraces with the falaj irrigation system. In several discussions with Omanis, we have understood that they view this as part of their culture. Usually some family members will join together and finance a labourer from Bangladesh or the likes to keep things going while the family uses the location for family meetings.
    This was the case in the tiny palm grove we crossed on this hike, where we met "sultan" and "Hamid" and shared a snack together in this beautiful oasis of palms, bananas and Papayas.
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  • Jebel Akhdar - walking the Falaj's

    2023年2月9日, オマーン ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Jebel Akdhar still has villages operating their Falaj's water irrigation systems to water the most incredible terraces that are literally " glued" to the mountain.

    Today we did the "balcony walk", and oh my god, what a balcony it was!
    Walking along the falaj with drops of 100meters.
    Some of the time we were crawling on all fours!
    Don't ask me how these channels were built and dont ask me how they manage to stick to those rock faces!
    Oman has been using the falaj irrigation system for thousands of years!
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  • 06:30, at the animal market, Nizwa

    2023年2月9日, オマーン ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    From 2000m altitude back down to 400m to experience the Friday morning Nizwa animal market!
    The latter started at 05:00 when the first pick-ups brought their sheep, goats and camels to the market and prepared for the auction which started at 06:30 as the sun rose. While waiting, everyone is greeting friends, chatting, or doing business on the side.
    Buyers (and tourists) assemble in two rings within each other, and the sellers march around the space between, either carrying or dragging their animals and screaming at the top of their voices.
    When a buyer is interested he throws a stone in front of the seller who then comes over and they negotiate a price (or not).
    The whole thing is total chaos, but two hours later, all the animals have changed hands and everything becomes quite again.
    Also fascinating is the weapons souk, where old gentlemen sell their guns, daggers, and other murder instruments. Absolutely fascinating and a social study in itself.
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  • Wadi Nakhar

    2023年2月11日, オマーン ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Today we drove into the Wadi Nakhar, (turquoise line) also known as the Grand canyon of Oman. The cliffs on the sides reach up to a mountain plateau at 2200 meters.
    Part of the track led along the river bed partially carrying water and I experienced my first driving through deeper water.
    In the night you could only hear the gentle trickling of the water, above us a crystal clear sky, like in the desert with millions of stars.
    The clear skies are due to an atmospheric moisture level close to zero percent which has our skin chafing and lips cracking.
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  • Jebel Shams, towering over Wadi Nakhar

    2023年2月12日, オマーン

    Yesterday afternoon we drove up to the Jebel Shams, towering over 2000meters over the Wadi Nakhar where we were previously going from warm nights to ice cold nights but incredible sunset and sunrise.
    The next day we did the balcony walk, a 3 km contour walk deep in the slopes of the canyon with subsequent "via ferata" to climb out again stretching our nerves a bit!
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  • Our last night in Oman

    2023年2月13日, オマーン

    Tonight is our last night in Oman.
    We have been here for 6 weeks now and it feels like years. Lonely deserts, incredible beaches, rugged mountains, and off-road tracks like you haver never seen. And on top of it all, the Omani people, so elegant, so friendly and so helpful. Wow what a six weeks which we now carry deep in our hearts.
    We will definitely come back!

    We will now travel through the Arab Emirates to Musandam, a tiny enclave belonging to Oman , creating the gulf of Hormuz only kilometers from Iran.
    It basically only consists of high mountains and fjords going vertically into the sea.

    Here we will go on-board a modern Dhow for three nights to travel through the fjords and go snorkeling.
    A bit of luxury to close off this part of our trip.
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  • Emirates: lots of money and off-road

    2023年2月14日, アラブ首長国連邦

    We are back in the desert, in the Arab Emirates on the way to Musandam and stopped off for the night next to an abandoned village that has been taken over by sand dunes.
    During the night crazy Emiratis were driving their sand vehicles in circles around us. Thank god, also they need to sleep at some time.
    The next morning we crossed a small workshop renovating ancient rusting Toyota Land cruisers from the 70ties making them look as if they had never left the showroom.
    As we drive we notice that sand is everywhere, blowing into every "nook and cranny" . Life here seems to be a battle against the advancing sand.
    Finally we stopped off at the Off-road museum, a crazy establishment sponsored by the Sheik who is a great off-road fan. Here, hundreds of off-road vehicles dating back to 1900 are displayed plus many crazy creations of fantasy created by people with too much money and nothing to do. The amazing thing is that every vehicle in this museum, drives. Once a year they are driven into the desert to a gigantic oldtimer off-road meeting and are then returned to the museum, cleaned by hundreds of labourers, and are then on display for another year!
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  • Musandam, a world on its own.

    2023年2月15日, オマーン

    Musandam is on the tip of the Arabian peninsula 90km from Iran, forming the strait of Hormuz. The peninsula basically consists of 1600m high rocks and not much more, no rivers, no green anywhere. One can only access it by sea or from the Emirates. One track goes through it which is blocked in the mountains by a large military area. The rocks drop steep into the sea creating large fjords, there are hardly beaches and only one small town, Kahsab accesible by land, all the others only by sea. What it does have is lots of warm seas with lots of fishes and dolphins.
    As we approached Kahsab in the morning, we noticed more than 50 speedboats, relatively close to each other, racing toward Kahsab and wondered what it was. Later we heard that each morning, Iranian speedboats cross the strait of Hormuz transporting sheep and goats to be sold for hard currency and transported to the Emirates. In the Souk they then use the money to buy American cigarrettes and electronics, all packed in waterproof bags. Then they race back to Iran. The principle is that the Iranian customs boats can only stop one or two of them. The others get through. The fines are split up through the group.
    What a crazy story!
    The sad side is that the crossing with currents and large waves is so brutal that people standing in the boats can break their legs, many of the animals just die.
    Walking through Khassab we came across a whole truck full of dead sheep and goats. Horrifying!
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  • "Rubba" - cruising with luxury

    2023年2月20日, オマーン ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Today, we decided to spoil ourselves by doing a 4 day cruise with "Rubba," a beautiful modern Dhow with cabins for 8. We will cruise around the fjords of Musandam, lounging, fishing, snorkelling, sleeping on deck beneath the starry sky, taking a holiday from travelling! No cooking, no looking for food and water, just "being" while the "butler" takes care of the rest.
    We will visit several villages on the way that are only accessible by water, in previous times by rowing boat hours away from Kahssab
    Today, Oman has laid electricity to all villages through these crazy mountains and delivers water by "water boat", once per week.
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  • Sardines, dolphins, and the lot!

    2023年2月21日, オマーン ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Wow, what a day! Today had everything!
    The quiet of daybreak was broken when swarms of sardines started jumping out of the water. In a scramble, the crew jumped on deck, throwing all manner of hooks (without bait) into the water and pulling out one fish after the next, sometimes several on one line. (All were then grilled in the evening as the sun set)
    Then, just an hour later, the dolphins joined us, surfing the bow wave! One baby circling its mother as it flapped away to keep up. And then as we circled the Cape into open and very rough seas, hundreds of speed boats from Iran came shooting past us like a swarm of hornets, jumping through a two meter swell with high winds with their light boats leaping up and threatening to flip over.
    On the floor, a tangle of sheep and goats, flying, and climbing around with the second person throwing them back. It was pandemonium!
    And then a sad picture, one dead sheep that had gone overboard floating past our ship as we passed.
    Oh my god what a day of impressions!
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  • The fish was so big......

    2023年2月22日, オマーン ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Today we went fishing!
    The owner of the boat and of "Musandam travel" joined us on board last night and invited us to go fishing.
    Based on the philosophy "if I eat fish, I must be able to catch it, Margot and I decided we must try, and promptly were successful. With a heavy heart I pulled up a large squid who had latched onto a fish who had bitten my hook. He hung on till I had him in the boat when he suddenly realized that he was no longer the hunter but the hunted, let go of the fish and sprayed his blue ink all around the boat. And what a mess that was! Thank god there was a lot of water around us to rinse of people and boat.もっと詳しく

  • Back to Khasab, as the hornets shoot by

    2023年2月23日, オマーン ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Today, we return to Khassab.
    As we motor along, suddenly they appear again on the horizon, the hornets, the smugglers from Iran. (Approx 100-150 speedboats per day). This time, they pass real close, and I can catch a glimpse of their hooded heads and the sheep in the hold of their boats.
    A frightening appearance and yet friendly people waving hello, desperate to make a living and prepared to risk their lives each day in the endeavour.
    We stop off at "telegraph Island" where the colonial British held a telegraph station going to India, and experience a wonderful 2 hours snorkeling among angel fish, snappers, Barakuda and two large manta rays. What elegance!

    As we get closer to harbour, the first Iranian speedboats boats are already returning, totally overloaded with huge waterproof Pacackages.

    Reaching the harbour is a sad. Four incredible days of relaxation go to an end, and we say farewell to the team, "Sprinti" is waiting to take us to Dubai.
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  • Dubai, land of Illusion

    2023年2月24日, サウジアラビア ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    Time to open our hearts for the craziness of Dubai and Abu Dhabi, both swimming in oil money with especially Dubai known for having completely lost contact to the ground.

    With a small boat trip on the "Dubai creek" we took up contact to the city and then moved on to the "planet of AYA" a cosmic sound and colour experience in the middle of a shopping mall. At the entrance you recieve a passport from the planet of AYA and then walk through or lie down in a series of rooms on the trip of your life, about the same experience as the magic mushrooms trip I once did!もっと詳しく

  • "The frame"

    2023年2月24日, アラブ首長国連邦 ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    In a totally spaced-out state we then went up "The Frame", literally a 150m high picture frame through which the Sheikh Rashid ibn Saeed Al Maktoum, could look from the old Dubai to the new Dubai which he had built from the ground in about 20years!
    The floor at 150m is of glass, quite a walking experience! A bit like Jesus on the water!

    While what has been created here is absolutely amazing, it is also a world of total illusion driven by endless money. Everything is the biggest, fastest, highest, craziest in the world, A searing hot, dry desert gives the the feeling of total abundance.
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  • Dubai Fountain, Burj Khalifa

    2023年2月24日, アラブ首長国連邦

    We then moved on to the "Dubai Mall", a shopping mall the size of a small city and of course the biggest in the world. Everything shining in marble, so clean you could eat from the floor with an aquarium in the middle of your shopping experience. In a world in the middle of the desert with no-limits money, shopping is about all that is left!

    In front of the door of the mall is the most bombastic musical fountain in the world with laser show, Dolby surround music and integrating the Burj Khalifa, 828m high (the highest) and built in 7 years (the shortest) from the idea to the inauguration in 2010. One floor built each week, working at night because it was too hot in the day.
    The next morning, we went up the Burj Khalifa tower at 08:30 (the rest of the day was booked out by the other 16,5 million tourists per year!) for the most incredible morning view of the city.
    This was followed by the Big Red bus tour around the city and it was here that I noticed I am about to explode and need time out, we cancelled all other plans and went to the beach for a whole day to reground ourselves. But even here the illusion was perfect, while ferraris raced behind us on the highway, no less than 20 helicopters flew over us to land on the helipad at the nearby Burj al Arab building, the symbol of Dubai and housing private luxury apartments.
    A world as fascinating as it is exhausting!
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  • Abu Dhabi, so much more relaxed

    2023年2月26日, アラブ首長国連邦 ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    After Dubai, Abu Dhabi seemed very relaxed and quite empty with a beautiful "cornische" along the water front.
    To spend the night, we drove out to one of the many islands thinking it would be quite there, It turned out to be the cruising mile where people drive late at night, probably to run away from their insomnia. At 01:30 am when we fled to a new location they were still driving, bumper-to-bumper and constantly revving their tuned truck or Masarati engines. An absolute nightmare!もっと詳しく

  • Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

    2023年2月27日, アラブ首長国連邦 ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    What a beautiful building, even if it is the biggest in the world!
    Full of aesthetic materials from all countries of the world and carried out with incredible craftsmanship.
    All designs are done with semi precious stone inlays.
    The huge woollen carpet of 5400m2 was hand knotted by 1200 artisans in 2 years.

    When I look at this incredible work of art, I only sense praise and thankfulness to Allah; none of the heaviness, the threatening and violence of the Catholic church which shocked me so much during my camino to Santiago.
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  • Back in Saudi, looking for Al Asfar lake

    2023年3月1日, サウジアラビア ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Today, we crossed the border into Saudia Arabia with the typical border problems of no one knowing what is really needed. We then headed off into the desert, looking for Al Asfar Lake near Hofuf. Well, the lake is not where it is supposed to be! When we found it, we got totally lost in a mixture of sand dunes and salty mud flats that look firm on the surface but sink in as soon as you put pressure on them. And the problem is, if you sink in, there are not many people that will pull you out!
    In the end, we gave up and are now sleeping in the desert overlooking the lake in the distance.
    Tomorrow is another day!
    Hasta Mañana!
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  • Riad, capital of Saudi Arabia

    2023年3月3日, サウジアラビア ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Riad was a disappointment!
    8 million people living in the middle of the flat desert, of which a small part is endlessly rich, living in huge palaces and racing around at night in lamborghinis while a large part of the population from India, Bangladesh and Pakistan is doing the work in the streets.
    The whole city is one huge big building site. Among other, the ancient seat of the ruling Saud family, Diriyah, has been dug up and restored to a unesco site. It's the center, the Bujari Heritage, is an area of restaurants and walks, and seems to be the meeting place of the Upper society. We went there hoping to spend the evening but gave up when €50 per person were asked as entry fee.
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  • Back to Nature, "Edge of the world"

    2023年3月5日, サウジアラビア ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We fled Riad after a night awake, as Lamborghini and Ferrari raced from one side of the city to the other demonstrating their sound and power, to the escarpment, called "Edge of the world", where the center of the Arabian peninsula drops down to sea level. Peace once again entered our souls as we hiked along these amazing barren cliffs.もっと詳しく