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Spring 2025 Camino
  • Allison Allen
  • Allison Allen

Spring 2025 Camino

Camino Frances, from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela (hopefully!) Read more
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  • Trip start
    March 27, 2025
    Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler

    On my way!

    March 27, 2025 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    So here I am, waiting to board in Duluth! This time I did NOT forget my Swiss Army knife in my backpack, so I will enjoy its company when I arrive in Spain. An early win! My sisters brought me here after a fortifying breakfast at Duluth Grill. Thanks ‘sters! An auspicious beginning!Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler

    Reconnecting

    March 29, 2025 in England ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    I arrived in Great Britain yesterday, power-sleeping my way from Madrid to London, where I was picked up by David and Ollie, good friends Morgan’s and I made on our first Camino. It was so amazing to see them in person again. They fed me proper fish and chips and I had the best sleep last night, after an epic journey from Duluth to Chicago to Montreal to Madrid to Gatwick.
    Today we went on a scenic walk at the Devil’s Punchbowl, and they took me out for a lovely creme tea. I have now had clotted cream and yes, it is all that.
    The tree is a rather ancient Yew tree, by an old well and an old church, very iconic.
    It’s been really nice too, to get to meet their respective partners, Irena and Millie especially after having heard all about them as we walked the Camino.
    Tonight, and this does seem just a little unfair after having already done it at home AND still being jet lagged, the clocks will spring forward an hour. Which means it’s now midnight here, so I’m sending this report and then turning out the lights.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler

    St Jean Pied de Port!

    March 31, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Today was a long travel day - two hour car ride, two flights, then a 90 minute shuttle. Tiring, but it all came together and the drive into SJPdP under a very blue sky and among newly green trees and steep Pyrenees very much set the stage for tomorrow.
    The pilgrim dinner at my albergue was delicious and the owner was warm and very good at helping a bunch of new pilgrims warm to the experience. That said, I’m so ready to disengage from humans for a few hours, and I’m so looking forward to getting under way tomorrow!
    Joseph, the hospitalero, asked each of us to give a book title length statement of our intention for this Camino, understanding it may well change and evolve. I said “Listen deeply, love well.” I know! SO cheesy! But it does summarize well my hopes for this pilgrimage, so I may as well put it out there.
    The photos are of the Pilgrim Office, where you pick up your credencial (pilgrim passport) and some basic information, and a shell. The other is of a controlled burn I saw as we drove into town. Fuels management in the Pyrenees!    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    13

    Roncesvalles

    April 1, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    I’ve still got it! Despite being older and somewhat less fit than the first time I successfully crossed the Napoleon Pass and found my bed in Roncesvalles. And yes, if you’re wondering, my feet hurt like hell! But do not appear blistered. Success!
    Today’s sunny, warm weather was in sharp contrast to the crazy storm that tried to blow us off the mountain last time. I could actually take in the beautiful views.
    I also got to observe controlled burns in progress throughout the day, at one point up close. Got one foot in the black! If you ever fought wildfires you know what I’m talking about:-)
    Dad, no slugs today, you’ll have to make due with a happy looking French snail. Kathy, you get a pic of cute French donkeys. You’re welcome!
    Tomorrow’s big decision: do I unfurl my sign and see what happens? I’m feeling more nervous about it than I thought I would. May see how good or not I feel tomorrow…    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler

    Zubiri

    April 2, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Similar to last time, today felt much easier than yesterday, with the exception of the long, rocky, rather treacherous descent into Zubiri. Apparently there is discussion of altering it to make the footing safer, but the geology is such that others do not want it messed with (see photos below.)
    The bridge is how you enter Zubiri and it’s just as medieval as it looks.
    I’m staying at a somewhat upscale private albergue (only 10 beds in my room!). They offered a dinner, which I took them up on. I’m always so torn! It’s a good chance to socialize, but also, it’s so much…socializing! At the end of a long day, and those dinners end up taking close to two hours. Hard on this introvert!
    Almost everyone in my room is complaining about how cold it is. I am quietly thrilled that it’s cool after a very hot, stuffy night last night punctuated by a man tumbling as he tried to get out of his top bunk. It sounded quite dramatic but he assured us he was fine. I also had a top bunk, which is a challenge, but I negotiated it without mishap.
    Tomorrow I will make my first change from last year, stopping before Pamplona. Honestly I like the small towns better, and I’ll be staying at one of the oldest continuously running albergues, in one of the most complete medieval monasteries on the Camino. Pictures tomorrow!    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler

    Off stage in Trinidad de Arreglar

    April 3, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    You know you’re off-stage (the stops popularized in the major guidebooks) when you’re the only one at your albergue for hours, then think it’s going to be just you and a friendly young Brazilian guy, and then a couple hours later two more trickle in. High contrast from Roncesvalles!
    It was a pretty easy, pleasant walk from Zubiri, in light rain the whole time. I walked a lot of the day with Pete, from Wales, then he, like the majority of pilgrims, went on to Pamplona.
    I am checking off the historical thing staying here, but it’s quite…austere. Not exactly heated, which is not unusual in spring, and WiFi is available only in the entryway area, across the garden from the dorm area. And no microwave! And no electrical plug in the dorm so I’m perched in the kitchen writing this while my phone charges. In other words, I’m living the pilgrim life! No worries, there’s beer and snacks in the vending machine. All is well.
    That Brazilian put me to shame, by the way. He started from Roncesvalles THIS MORNING! Said it was only 11:00 AM when he arrived in Zubiri so he decided to just keep going. Well!
    The photos are of my albergue, the medieval bridge right next to it, my dorm, the attached also medieval chapel, the courtyard and the sign for the local town, where I found some lunch and snacks earlier today. Also a slug - for you, dad! And some beautiful European doors, of which there are so many! This American just gawks at it all.
    And, last minute update - the heat has kicked in. I think I’ll have a beer.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler

    Long day

    April 4, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    I fell asleep last night with a scratchy throat and some congestion. It didn’t progress, just hovering around as a low key crud. Stopped at a farmacía and got some drugs.
    Maybe the cold, or just more tired, but I forgot my poles at the albergue and had to go back for them, and also did a lot of extra wandering around Cezur Minor looking for a place to stop. Then tackled a big climb, and right down the other side to arrive here around 5:00. I was a straggler! I hate being a straggler. Much nicer to get in by 3:00, have more time to recoup, do laundry, and feel sorry for the poor stragglers as they stagger in.
    Main clue that I bonked a little this afternoon was sitting at dinner, and all I wanted to say in response to the chatty lady with the nearly impenetrable accent who kept wanting to engage was “please stop speaking to me.” Bad pilgrim! I did not say that, of course.
    I love all the Spanish windmills.
    Metal sculpture is at the top of Alto del Perdón. Always SO windy up there and you can hear the windmills whirring away.
    Not sure what Snow White and her band of groupies did to end incarcerated …
    The two pilgrims with me are Kevin and Amy, who were at the albergue with me last night.
    The in a couple photos of the fountains that liberally dot the Camino. It’s bridges, fountains and doors, people!
    Walked on my own today and that was fine by me. May finally put my sign out tomorrow and see if there are any takers, unless this cold has me feeling too crappy.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    22

    Much better day!

    April 5, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    So, today was day 5 of walking and u feel like I’m getting some things sorted out. For one thing, I maybe don’t want to be off stage so much. The last couple of days it led to very solitary walks, and while I enjoyed them - while I enjoyed today’s walk, I do want to connect with some folks at least sometimes. So I pushed a little today, walked 27-28 km and caught up with my group. Or a lot of them anyway as we all seemed to congregate at the municipal here in Estella.

    I recognized it as soon as I walked in, and when I opened up my WiFi to connect, I didn’t need to enter the password. It remembered me! Aww! It’s the little things :-)

    So yes, I did stride right past a very well marked turn, almost first thing this morning, but it was a 20 minute delay, tops, and it yielded the photo of the big rapeseed field under that sky. I just wish that photo could capture the depth of silence I encountered there. So beautiful.

    Then from the sublime to the best donut I have ever eaten, and I mean ever. The coffee was also amazing.

    The bridge today makes those medieval ones look like youngsters -it’s Roman! And the picture of the rocky path I am pretty sure is remains of the Roman road.

    Final update: despite here being almost no one around to see it, I put my sign out this afternoon! No chatting happened. We’ll see what tomorrow brings.

    Went to Mass tonight, received a blessing along with two other pilgrims I attended with, which was nice. It was a good day!    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    Free wine, by ancient decree! But gone by 9:00 this morning. Pilgrims!
    What is this geographic feature called? Gene, lookin at you!Good morning!Rocks FILLED with photos, names, dates of memorialized people.Also memorial, right by the rocks.1

    Los Arcos and Logroño

    Apr 6–8, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Still with the ups and downs! Yesterday, which was a good bit shorter than today, felt so hard! Maybe the cold moving into my chest contributed, but almost the whole day was a slog. I was sure at the end of the day yesterday that there was no way I was walking to Logroño, and would need to stop in Viana, which was annoying because that would have been only an 18K day but it was the only option before Logroño, a 28 K day. But! Got lots of sleep, felt better this morning, and it was no big thing! In fact the walk to Viana in particular was about as nice or nicer than any stretch so far, with lots of sun, a cool breeze, big vistas and a bigger Spanish sky.

    Scored a bed in the municipal, (cheap, publicly run, don’t take reservations), and while the beds are packed in a little it had an ice cold fountain for foot soaking. So nice!!

    Hung out this evening with Mike from Iowa, got to a grocery store and also visited the cathedral. These gold-packed Spanish churches! When I looked at the huge, ornate gold retablo (see photo) built around the simple image of a crucified Christ I thought “we humans are obviously crazy, and also so intensely passionate.”

    Proud moment for me: saw a pun, in Spanish, on a French phrase and actually got it! Do you?

    And!! Saw a sight I was hoping to see, right from the window by my bunk. A stork nesting in a bell tower. They were gone already when I walked in late September last time.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    2Love the old, old olive trees!

    Longest day yet!

    April 8, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    I planned to walk to Nájera today, which is the standard stage. But I’d really like to get onto the Meseta, on the other side of Burgos, ahead of Santa Semana. That’s the week of Easter, and along with all the Holy Week celebrations, which I am looking forward to, it is also a week off for Spanish school kids and many families have a tradition of spending the week walking a stage of the Camino. Which is wonderful, but also it gets busy, and challenging to find a bed, or do I’ve been told. I’m thinking it may be quieter in the small towns of the Meseta. So I added one more town to my walk today and went about 35-36K, or about 21.5 miles.

    It went well! I mean, it was hot, I got tired, but I was not miserable! I think I’m really getting my legs under me.

    The sign thing is interesting. Absolutely crickets so far. I’ll keep putting it out, because who knows, but maybe it’s just a little too weird for people? It seems like a potentially great fit for the Camino to me, but maybe not? The upside is I really have been loving my days walking alone. Plenty of chats in diner stops and at the albergues. This kind of time and space to just be is an amazing gift.

    I stopped at a place offering “English breakfast “ today. Yes please!

    Also walked through a great area with a lake, lots of birds, including the two in the picture, and squirrels the general size and shape of our grays but a really pretty red.

    I’m in the Rioja region now. Lots and lots of vineyards, looking very different from my first Camino, when they were loaded with grapes. Also lots of olive trees.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    Harpies!

    Walking solo

    April 9, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    So, the profound difference between walking with someone and walking alone is really coming into focus. Today I found myself in a good conversation with a guy from Germany that probably lasted about an hour, but that is very much the exception, so far. Several people along the way have spoken very strongly of the benefit of walking alone and how much they prefer it after doing both.

    I am not inclined to compare them that way. My first Camino was so amazing - I would not change a single thing about it. I remember worrying early on that the amount of social interaction I was having was going to detract from the experience somehow, only to learn that for me it was a needed corrective, and ultimately a great source of joy.

    Now I’m having the Camino I imagined then. I’m only nine days in so maybe there are some bigger social connections ahead for me, but my growing sense right now is that there will not be, and I’m good with that. It’s early days but the - how do I even express it - the interior space that begins to - unfold? open? deepen? is more and more felt. I’m probably trying to talk about it too soon, hence the word finding trouble, but it’s what I’ve been walking with today.

    On a more down to earth level, I had a fairly long walk today that went well. Hi again though! Tomorrow is longer, and the last third is mostly uphill, but it’s supposed to be about 10 degrees cooler, so that will be nice.

    Today I revisited a church in a town famous for a story from the Middle Ages that involving a young man falsely accused of theft and hung during the pilgrimage. He was walking with his parents who continued on, brokenhearted. On their return they found him still hanging but miraculously alive. They ran to the town official and told him this. He was about to eat his roast chicken dinner and he told them their boy was as dead as the chicken on his plate, at which point the chicken leapt to its feet. The boy was cut down and released, and to this day two chickens are always housed in the Cathedral. See video evidence below.

    Tonight I am in a smaller albergue with exactly one other person, an Italian guy. Seems nice, not creepy at all, but if I disappear, his name is Duelio. Kidding! Not actually worried at all. It’s very nice to be in such a as quiet space for a change. And dinner was great!    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler

    San Juan de Ortega

    April 10, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Today was a longer day, about 31 Km but really not a hard day. I added unnecessary stress by convincing myself I had left my credencial- my “pilgrim passport” at the albergue this morning. Which led to several WhatsApp exchanges with the very kind and patient hospitalera, who of course couldn’t find it, because it was in my pack, tucked in the wrong place. Good grief.

    Which leaders to this thought: contrary to what many online language snobs will tell you, Duolingo does not suck. It’s true it will only take you so far, but it’s been my main practice for some time and my Spanish is so much more serviceable than it was last time. I’m not fluidly conversant, and only conversational practice will get me there, but still! I can ask questions, answer them and do all the necessary things. In more than one tense! It’s pretty satisfying.

    So, tomorrow I arrive in the big town of Burgos! It’s a shorter walk than today by about 5 Km, and I have booked a hotel room for the night. So exciting!! I can sleep in! I also plan on using the first half of Saturday to visit the gorgeous Cathedral and generally dink around, then walk a short day onto the Meseta, this officially starting the second stage of the Camino. I’m excited for that!

    I put in a couple examples of the positive graffiti sprinkled liberally along the Camino. And some flowers. And an old stone building that to my eye just oozes with character. I just want to be its friend! Don’t you??    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    3

    Burgos!

    Apr 11–12, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    It was a quiet walk into Burgos today. Not as long as yesterday, but getting all the way into town ends up seeming looong. I’m proud of myself though! There are two routes in, the standard one, which follows the highway and is awful, and the much nicer, but somewhat trickier river route. We took that route last time, but as I recall David and I totally deferred to Morgan and Olly to lead the way. Well, I did it myself this time. Yay me! Also found my way around Burgos - to the hotel, the Cathedral, a pharmacy, and a vegetarian restaurant I remembered being really good last time. It still is!

    The picture looking out from a ridge shows Burgos in the distance when I was still about 20 Km away, and also gives a sense of the plain I am launching into tomorrow. The Meseta!

    The carved marble figures are a King and Queen (if I’m remembering correctly) interred there. I liked the detail of the little dog curled at the Queen’s feet. There are a LOT of bodies tucked away in that cathedral.

    If you look closely at the duck photo you’ll see ducklings!

    And the video is for you to listen to. If only I could identify that bird by its call!😂    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler

    Rabé de la Calzadas

    April 12, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    As planned, I slept in, luxuriated in having space to myself, then had a fancy, delish pastry for breakfast (see photo!) and sauntered out of town around 11:30, with a nice short walk planned - an easy 12.5 Km.

    On the outskirts of Burgos I met up with Monica, a Canadian woman, and we ended up chatting away the entire way to my stop! It was a sharp contrast to my normal solo walking days and it certainly made the time fly. I enjoyed it, but also now look forward to quiet tomorrow. I can guarantee I won’t be seeing her again. That maniac is covering 40-50Km A DAY! Just now she’s “slowing” down to 40 for a couple days due to some swelling in her feet. She’s an ultramarathon runner, has done tons of them, in the Sahara, the Alps, the Mohave, all over. And was a smoker until about three years ago. Crazy!

    My feet are happy for the slow day. They were yelling at me a lot last night. I’ve also been very remiss about stretching, which is not good so I worked on that today. A good rest stop!

    Tomorrow I will pass by some beautiful ruins that have a tiny albergue tucked into them. It’s low odds, but if it’s open and there’s a bed I’m stopping there. It would be so cool!

    If you look closely at the first fountain you’ll see that some of the figures are…risqué. There are others here and there, I have read, that are much more salacious. This apparently was common in the Middle Ages, on fountains and friezes outside of churches to emphasize the nature of “ the world” vs God’s kingdom. Hmm.

    The other fountain is just plain funky. Maybe a local artist? It’s right outside my albergue.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    231

    Castrojeriz

    April 13, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Last night I was blessed, along with a group of other pilgrims, by the sweetest group of nuns, and given a Miracle Medal to wear. So nice! Then went straight to the bar and chanted with a German guy, a Croatian guy and a woman from Turkey. Why didn’t I think to get a picture?? They were talking about relations between the three countries, and it was really interesting. The Turkish woman and I agreed that her president sucks but not nearly as much as mine does.

    This morning began in rain. It never got hard, or windy, and eventually it cleared off. I launched into the Meseta, and it was as wonderful as I remembered. Put me in a haiku frame of mind:

    Step by step - simple.
    Soft rain a benediction
    On my red poncho

    Again, and again,
    Just keep unwrapping this gift
    is the lesson learned.

    Chatter behind Me -
    up off the bench and go, feet!
    I prefer quiet.

    Bashō I am not, but it kept me entertained.

    Saw what must be a salamander of some sort - tiny little legs I could barely see. Anybody able to ID it?

    Arriving in Castrojeriz I of course note the ruins of a castle high on the hill above. Last time Morgan and Olly egged me on and we climbed up, in wicked heat, and explored. I gave it a friendly wave this time and called it good.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    21

    Frómista

    April 14, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    For whatever reason, today started out feeling like a slog. Just a low start, made worse by the fact that it was an 11K walk to get to the first open cafe for some coffee. What happened to my plan to pack a little instant?!? It was only 9 K as it turned out because a very kind volunteer was providing coffee in tiny glasses in an ancient Ermita, where people have been caring for pilgrims for centuries. The tradition lives on! The stone carving is from that building.

    My sad and lonely blahs lifted after the cafe stop and a nice visit with a pilgrim from Portugal who I’ve been crossing paths with lately. Amazing what some coffee and a little human contact can do for the spirits.

    Arrived at my albergue without incident. Then the round of pilgrim life chores. Find an outlet to charge phone. Shower. Do the laundry. Find an ATM machine, because this town is big enough to have one and it’ll be a while. Dutifully visit the giant 15th century church on your way back, walking slowly on your tired feet. Check the laundry. Lie down!

    Also, because it’s Holy Week, and way more than usual people are arriving into the Camino, I had a little booking frenzy this afternoon. I’m not booked for tomorrow, so send me good vibes, but I am from Wednesday through Monday. I think. Pre planning, not my strong suit.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    The only guy in that town who was being served. Grr.

    Carrión de los Condes

    April 15, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Quick one today, I think. Someone set their alarm for 5:30 today, (Bad form in an albergue!), but I decided getting an early start might be smart anyway, since I was a little worried about getting a bed. Probably unnecessarily. So I was walking by 6:10, in a cold wind under a nearly full moon. See attempted photo.

    The price I paid for my cold, dark, early start was no coffee or warm food for way too long. Nothing when I started, and then THREE little towns in a row let me down. When I did finally get to an open place it was great, and I had a nice chat with a woman from Canada. We communed over our love of merino wool, and she was very impressed by my pockets so I got to explain the whole skirt thing. Very satisfying!

    Nice, early arrival at my preferred albergue, welcomed by an efficient but also very warm nun, had a relaxing day. AND scored a new pair of liner toe socks, so now I don’t have to wash my one precious pair every day. Yay!! Did I mention that the ultra-distance runner I talked with as we left Burgos had Injinji as sponsor at one point? Well she did.

    Talked with some walking wounded today. Much bus-taking going on. One does not have warm enough clothes, was too cold today and tomorrow will be colder, so she’s probably wise to take the ride. Another’s feet are rebelling severely. I’m very grateful for my good gear and for my body so far putting up with all this.

    Tomorrow starts with a walk of 17 Km before the next town, the largest such gap on the whole Camino I believe, so I am NOT leaving town until I’ve had some coffee. Not happening.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    22

    Moratinos

    April 16, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 0 °C

    I almost skipped my entry for today - it’s just a mostly quiet, inward time, and not going to be interesting to you my family and friends, I think. But, a couple things came to mind.

    For one, I had the always lovely Camino experience of stepping into the next bar where you will again sit, rest, and drink coffee, and was unexpectedly and warmly greeted by a couple I met the very first night in St. Jean! We were so pleased to reconnect! And five minutes later I hear “Allison!” and it’s Belinda, who I last saw maybe a week ago, when she was struggling so much I thought she might have to head home. But no, here she was, and again, we were so pleased to meet back up and exchange news. So write a nexus in that little bar.

    And for myself I’m deep into a book called The Wisdom Jesus. So well timed and helpful to me as I walk the Meseta and also walk through Holy Week. Give me lots to ponder as I walk.

    Today was mostly rainy and windy, not super conducive to photo taking, but of course I took a few. I was happy the sizeable hailI saw in the frosty grass did not fall on me.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    1
    1

    Bercianos del Real Camino

    April 17, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    The name is almost bigger than the town! I took a couple pictures trying to capture how abruptly this little town just stops. It’s a street and then…it isn’t. It’s like a set for an old time Western. Just a tiny little agricultural town, with a small Mercado where many of us, locals and peregrinos alike, queued up waiting for it to re-open at 5:30 so we could stock up. Apparently tomorrow, which is Good Friday, will be like a Sunday with almost everything closed. I finally got some cheese to go with the dates I score the other day. Hah!

    Larger scale, today I passed through the geographic center of my Camino! This was marked in two ways. There is a set of carved statues you pass between. Big photo op. And there is a half-Compostela you can obtain in Sahagún, which I did. If disaster strikes and you are unable to complete your Camino, this has you covered! Phew! Sahagún is also full of Camino art and funny pilgrim statues. See photos!

    I don’t know what to think about being halfway through. Is it going quickly? Slowly? Depends when you ask me. Right now it feels kind of quick. Am I really almost done with the Meseta? How can that be? (Ok, I just checked and I have almost 100km of Meseta left to walk, so that’s good.)

    I’m Camino-rich, and very grateful.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler

    Reliegos

    April 18, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Well! I think my theme today is the push and pull between longing to connect and longing to disconnect. Yesterday I was talking with another woman who is walking solo and she was sharing her expectation of making close connections, in contrast to her experience of making casual, occasional connections. I could relate and I described the contrast between my first, very social Camino and this one, which is much like hers. The thing is, I know that such conversations ARE connection, and they really do comfort us.
    At the same time, I had booked at an albergue for last night which had many happy reviews because each bunk…drumroll please.. has a privacy curtain and its own outlet and light. Gasp! Such luxury! And I, too, was very excited about this curtain. Because as much as feeling isolated pains us, we ALSO long for separation and privacy. And just LOVE to draw that curtain! Isn’t that interesting? No wonder so many of us drink too much.
    AND, to pile onto that theme, tonight I went ahead and signed on for the communal meal at my albergue, because it was going to be vegetarian and I don’t eat meat on Good Friday, and it was at a reasonable hour. Usually I avoid them because I’m tired and done with people by the end of the day. Or so I tell myself. Because tonight was delightful! Good conversation, very good food, and two of us turned out to be musicians so we were treated to some great tunes. Could not have been nicer. AND yet, tomorrow I will have a private hotel room in Leon and I’m so excited for that! Even better than a dumb old curtain! So, back and forth, connect, hide out, feel lonely, connect. No answers here, just my rambling wondering about what on earth we humans are about. A very interesting Good Friday for me, and I’m guessing there are some connections to be made to that whole drama of love and loss as well…    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    So sad!
    So many observations offered as you walk.

    Lying low in León

    April 19, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    So here I am, in the big city of León, and mostly what I’m doing is enjoying my very own little hotel room and not going out. Partly because it’s cold and rainy, but also, I just don’t love the big towns.

    Walking in of course you trek through outlying burbs and industrial areas, then into downtown city streets. Guided always by the friendly yellow arrows, of course. Your average pilgrim feels increasingly out of her comfort zone until suddenly the magical Big Stone Wall appears, and you step into the Old City. Ahh! Much better! Now, where’s that Cathedral?

    Very aggravating that I can’t seem to find a poster or website that spells out their schedule for Easter. Nor does the front desk lady have any idea. And the Cathedral is literally across the street from this hotel! Why do I not have the WhatsApp number for the two super-devout Catholics I met along the way? I’m sure they have the scoop.

    Lost: one wool mitten liner, some time this morning. Very sad.

    So, now that I’m on the verge of exiting both León and Semana Santa, my new focus is covering enough ground each day that I have a reasonable chance of walking to Finisterre. I very much wanted to already and then a Camino blogger I like went and posted the most inspiring discussion of the experience of arriving there. If I can do it without turning this into a rush, I will. I mean, who among us doesn’t want to walk to the End of the Earth?    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler

    A parade by any other name…

    April 20, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Short one today. Slept great in my nice little hotel room. My sleep app tells the story - see if you can tell which night was hotel and which albergue.
    Went to the square in front of the cathedral this morning for an Easter procession sort of thing. Which confirmed for me that “procession “ is just another word for parade, and I do not like parades. Had to remind myself, as I stood for an hour and a half in the chill morning air, that it was a cultural experience, since it sure wasn’t speaking to my spiritual sensibilities. Wasn’t in a great spot for pictures.
    Then it was a nice short walk, (in sun!) out of the city (yay!) to what turns out to be a really lovely albergue, and also very quiet, with only four of us here. Semana Santa is apparently over!
    Well, Easter is a season, at least for we Catholics, and I’ll have a good solid walk tomorrow with lots of mulling time, so that’s to the good.
    Peace, all!    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler

    Santibañez de valdeigesias and Rabanal

    April 21, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    I forgot to post yesterday, and it’s already a blur. Let’s see - it was a reading, chilly day until toward the end when it stopped raining, but it was never a downpour. As I walked I kept crossing paths with Linda from Canada and Morne’ (sounds a lot like Monet) from South Africa at the various eateries, and that was fun. We had shared a lovely albergue the previous night. Linda stopped before we did and Morne’ and I went on to the same place last night, which was also a nice stop. We walked together all day today, making this just the second time on this trip I’ve spent a day walking with another person, and we were good company to each other on what was a longer walk of about 32 Km.
    And no, friends and family, do not send excited inquiries. Morne’ is gay.
    We have now left the Meseta! We started to climb a bit today, but tomorrow is the big day, with a steep uphill to the Cruz de Ferro and an even longer, steeper downhill, which I recall as not my hardest day last time. Send good energy!
    And warmth! Apparently this hospitalero sees no need to turn on the heat, and it’s maybe 45 in here? Sleeping in layers tonight for sure!    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    1

    Molinaseca

    April 23, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

    Well! Today we (me and my new crew of Morne’ and Alejandro) climbed up to Cruz de Ferro - the iron cross, where one traditionally leaves a stone to represent something you want to let go of. I was happy to do that! It was a lovely walk up and a much longer, more demanding walk down, but it was sunny and warm, and we had great conversations and took lovely food and drink breaks. During one of them two cats took turns snuggling up to my pack. So cute!

    The views were phenomenal today. I only wish I could do them justice.

    We are staying in a beautiful little town, Carbo-loaded with pasta at an outdoor cafe by a river, enjoyed a couple tinto de veranos, and now it’s time to sleep!    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    2

    O Cebreiro and Triacastela

    April 23, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    I missed the last two nights! Albergues almost always close up at 10:00, with most good pilgrims cozy in their beds by 9:00, feeling righteously judgmental when the party crew arrives in the now dark dorm at 9:50 and tries to surreptitiously open up their sleep bags, brush their teeth, etc. I am always a good pilgrim - except last night when we got to town late, got to a restaurant late, had an extra drink and voilá - WE were the last minute pilgrims. Two nights in a row.

    Not tonight though. This introvert needs to hit pause on the social side of things so I’m cozy in my bunk, getting caught up here while the others sit in the sun in front of the bar.

    So, we have made our way down the huge drop from Cruz de Ferro, up the big climb that takes you into Galicia and the beautiful stone town O Cebreiro, and today back down the final big drop. Just typical ups and downs from now on.

    Tomorrow we will pass Sarria, which will mark the beginning of the end. Lots and lots of people start in Sarria because it’s 100 Km out from Santiago and that’s the minimum distance for the pilgrimage to “count.” Si the vibe tends to shift - we’ll see.

    It’s so weird to be saying “we” after my very solo first few weeks, but it does seem that I’m be walking into Santiago with my friends Morne’ and Alejandro. The only real question mark being that one has a bad knee and the other a bad ankle, so we’ll see. Been interesting to balance talking time with alone time, but pretty doable. What happened to my chatter-fleeing self?? I do think I may be able to walk to Finesterre, and if so that will be solo. I think it will feel very good to finish in silence after starting that way.

    The big, gnarly Chestnut tree is one I remembered from last time. I knew it was in Gslicia somewhere, and it was so nice to come around a corner and meet up with it again! It felt like meeting a friend.

    Today I walked in ahead and found us an albergue, unit remembering until I walked down into the kitchen that we had stayed here before. It made me my miss you Morgan! But look at me, filling the advance scout role!!

    The unfolding of a Camino is a rich and mysterious event.    Read more

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