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Spring 2025 Camino
  • Allison Allen
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  • Allison Allen

Spring 2025 Camino

Camino Frances, from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela (hopefully!) Read more
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    Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    Put here by the Romans.The walk ends here!

    World’s end

    May 5 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    When you have one day in Finisterre, and by “one day” you mean whatever part of the day remains after you walk 30 K to get there, you get up early. You walk, so happy that the day is a clear one. You soak up these last views. You don’t even feel tired until that last few K on stone walking paths, and even then you don’t really care, because - the Atlantic Ocean! It has appeared, and as you walk the last stretch you can see your destination across a beautiful blue bay.

    You find your albergue, your hospitalero kindly orients you using a little preprinted map. Lighthouse at westernmost point is here. Office for obtaining Finisterre Compostela, here. Swimming beaches here. Best beach for sunset, here. Church celebrating Mass at 6:00, here. Like that.

    You head for the office to get that Compostela, and you’re glad you did. It’s so beautiful! Back to the albergue to tuck it safely away.

    Next, two and a half K walk to that lighthouse, and mile marker 0.00. It feels longer. If you’re me, you’re talking to God, a lot, and it’s good. A kind Dutch man takes your photo there after someone did the same for him. He gives you a hug, a really nice one, for good measure and somehow, in the moment it means a great deal to you. You sit, and look at the ocean, the great beyond beyond for a while, feeling the liminality of it all. Feeling a lot.

    You walk back, shivering because the wind has turned cold! You stop to peek into the old, abandoned church you zipped past on the way up. But it isn’t abandoned! There’s a priest inside, and you realize it is precisely 6:00. Well! What do you do? You go in and celebrate Mass, of course. Then you resume your stagger back to your albergue.

    You collapse for a while on your bunk, eat peanuts and corn nuts and snickers because you’re so hungry but too tired to find food and anyway after repacking your stuff in preparation to travel there isn’t really time because it’s after 8:00 now and soon enough, rather than going to sleep you’re on your feet again, searching out that good sunset beach.

    Where you get to sit well bundled in the wind and listen to the waves roll in and find some shells, and take some pictures. And be. You hobble back to your albergue after 10:00. Today, your last day, was your highest step count yet: 55,880. Amongst many other highs. You say thank you, for everything, and you fall asleep knowing that tomorrow you get to head home.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    Those slats from the upper bunk really come in handy sometimes.
    Instant coffee - not so bad!Was climbing a long hill, saw this busted power pole, and felt understood.It took two Caminos, but finally a Pepsi!!Burning bush!!

    Almost there

    May 3 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    This Camino has been filled, pretty much every day, with moments of recognition from my first walk, at levels big and small. So it’s been very different for me, yesterday and today, as that all ended in Santiago. Now every turn brings a new vista, and there were some nice ones today! I do find myself recalling that Morgan and Olly have walked these paths ahead of me, and that feels good.

    Another change is that there are many, many fewer people walking this portion of the Camino. A big shift and I welcome the quiet. Including an absence of thunder! Much more mellow weather today.

    If you need a very quick moment of zen, I have a short video clip for you. Enjoy!

    My aim tomorrow is to get an early start, so that I have more time to be there at the ocean tomorrow. This will likely mean - brace yourselves fellow coffee addicts - a 15K walk before my first cup. Fizzy caffeine tablet in water bottle it is! We pilgrims make these sacrifices with barely a blink🙄🙄🙄.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    The Cathedral this morning.
    And a final view of the Cathedral as I head west.3A pine, maybe aspiring to be a palm tree??Sky clearing after the storm. Phew.

    A Peña and Piaxe

    May 3 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    A big name for a small town a third of the way to Finisterre.

    After saying my goodbyes over a cafeteria breakfast in the basement of our VAST former seminary albergue, I headed out. Sad to say goodbye, thrilled to be wrapping up this Camino with a few solo days. Ending it like I started. The time alone felt really good, spiritually and also, I’m an introvert! That was a LOT of social connection for me!

    Today for the first time I saw roses! It was late in their season last time but I still saw, and photographed so many! I love them and was happy to get to say hi to some before leaving Spain.

    The last hour of my walk was…exciting? There had been rumblings and threatening skies, and then the storm arrived. It wasn’t that it lasted so long or dumped so much rain on me. It was that for a little while it was Right Over me! Like, flash-BANG! The first time that happened I’ll admit it - I screamed a little. The next few times I hunched my shoulders every time the lightning flashed. Because that’s gonna keep me alive, right? Tall trees on both sides of a narrow trail. Was that good because I wasn’t the tall object, or bad because….i don’t know. I couldn’t remember my lightning safety! I think make yourself small, just your feet on the ground, but I couldn’t get myself to do it. Just scurried along, praying manically. And, obviously, was just fine. Arrived at my albergue very shortly thereafter. Phew!

    Now I’m parked in a two-bunk room with two older French guys and a younger guy from…Croatia I think. One of whom keeps shutting the window. We are in for a needlessly stuffy night, I think. But day after tomorrow - the ocean!!    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    Balloon people!1T supported this tiny leaf that is also obviously a miniature Camino arrow.Belinda and TPost-adventure recovery time1

    Santiago!

    May 2 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    I’m here! After a rainy start it mostly stopped raining, at least until after we had arrived and soaked up the moment. The walk in was nice, and I got to reconnect with Belinda and her daughter, who I had not seen in some time. We were all so pleased! They had a much more apocalyptic experience of the power outage than we did. Lucky us!

    Walking into Santiago brings this power surge of excitement. All these people flooding in after having walked anywhere from five days to five or more weeks. It’s crackling with energy!

    For me, the feeling of arrival comes as I walk through the tunnel/portal where there is always someone playing bagpipes. I so love bagpipes!

    After that there is celebratory milling in the square in front of the Cathedral, then the process of getting your Compostela, then finding a cafe where you can sit, eat, drink, and watch others stream through, greeting fellow walkers who you recognize. So fun! Time to decompress.

    I took some time after that to go to the cathedral. I explored it pretty well last time. I viewed the relics, hugged the statue, attended Mass. This time all I really wanted to do was revisit the beautiful side chapel where my last Camino was capped off in the deepest way. I found it, slipped inside and sat down, and I’m not kidding, it felt as if I walked all the way across Spain just to sit exactly there. So good. Tears? Yes.

    Then we capped off the night addressing an emergency! Morne’ realized he had left the tube holding his (and my) Compostela at a coffee shop we had all stopped at. Alejandro called them. Yes, it’s there! And they’re closing in 15 minutes! Picture three pilgrims sacked out on their beds suddenly levering off those beds, throwing damp sneakers back on and flying up the hill (s) to retrieve those documents. We were impressive! And successful. Phew.

    Tomorrow morning I start walking to Finisterre.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler

    Penultimate day - sort of?

    May 1 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Today was very fun! Shorter, very nice weather, and the next to last day before arriving in Santiago. It felt festive and light, possibly in part because I described our enjoyment of a shot of whiskey or liqueur every 5 k on the penultimate day of my first Camino and Morne’ and Alejandro were more than happy to reenact that. It is now officially a tradition!

    I also came upon an artist along the way I had liked last time and was able to get more of his cards.

    And saw a great donkey!

    Tomorrow, Santiago!    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler

    Arzua

    April 30 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Today was a longer day - 29K, but a really nice walk overall. Lots of short ups and downs, lots of little villages, nice wide paths. The paths of course have more people than I’m really used to and that will be the case tomorrow and Friday. I’m guessing that as I walk in to Finesterre the crowds will thin, but I don’t actually know that.Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    Camino dogs!
    1Recognized this albergue as such a fun stop last time!

    Arzua 2-ah

    April 30 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Accidentally uploaded my post!

    I am looking forward, of course, to walking into Santiago on Friday, but I’m REALLY excited to be able this time to walk on to Finisterre. It feels like the “true” ending of this Camino to me. I just need to work out how I’m getting from there to Madrid for my flight to make sure it’s all going to work out.

    Today we walked through eucalyptus forests. I have a rather ghostly photo - I’ll try to take a better one tomorrow.

    Ended the walk in rain today , the first rain since I entered Galicia. This is a sharp contrast to the daily rain when we were here last time so the rainier days ahead cannot be complained about.

    How am I feeling about this whole experience? I feel as if I desperately need time to process, and it’s one of the things that makes returning to solo walking for the last three days to the ocean so appealing, much s I’ve loved walking with Morne’ and Alejandro.

    Otherwise how I’m feeling is tired and a little footsore. Time to wrap this day up!    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    Tucked into a niche in a bar/restaurant100 Km to go!!Tired? Too bad!! Welcome to Portomarín.No electricity but some great sangria.Graffiti everywhere, even on the slats of the bunk above me.

    Blackout!

    April 28 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    So, the bed race, day one, turned out well. We started in the dark, around 6:30 and had a beautiful walk. We cruised into Portomarín plenty early and were actually the first to arrive at the municipal albergue. E needed to wait two hours for it to actually open. As time went on a good number of us formed a happy line on the benches in front, with people taking turns making beer runs to the restaurant across the way. Very convivial!

    However, once we got to our beds and of course immediately plugged in our phones - nothing. Hmm. Turns out nearly all of Spain had no power, along with parts of France and Portugal. Oh no! We couldn’t charge our phones and internet then disappeared. We went out looking for food and had drinks and a great cheese plate since there was no hot food. We also stood in a queue at the supermercado where they let several people at a time into the dark store. We had to take a picture of the item and its price for each thing we selected so they knew what to charge us. I won’t lie - there was an urge to hoard!
    It was still out this morning and we were so happy h to eventually find a cafe with a gas stove because - coffee!! A couple hours later as we approached yet another bar e saw someone paying for something with a card. Gasp! Power was back! We immediately ordered hamburgers.
    Which we needed, because we agreed we would get up even earlier this morning because the bed situation looked even worse. After some drama though it all worked out, and we even all went and had half hour massages that felt amazing! Tomorrow we have beds reserved. And, presumably, electricity. It will seem so relaxed!    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler

    The (bed) race is on

    April 27 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    So, I continued walking with Morne’ and Alejandro today. It was an often beautiful walk, very sunny and it only really got warm late in the day.

    We stopped at an incredibly nice oasis, which is a donation based stop with all sorts of food and beverages, sweet art,, a little yoga area and just a very positive, hippy vibe. Reminded me of Birdsfoot!
    We then had a looong, leisurely lunch in Sarria before a final push to our current stopping point, Barbadelo.. It wasn’t a long walk, just over 22 Km, but what with their ongoing injuries and our enjoyment of a good lunch we made that walk last! That will not be the script tomorrow.

    This is because now that we are past Sarria, the pilgrim population has exploded. We should have anticipated this but underestimated the situation. After much calling around (SO nice, to have a native Spanish speaker on our team) we had to add acknowledge that our next destination is filled, leaving only the option of getting there in time to snag a bed at the municipal, which does not take reservations. This plan will likely be shared by any number of other hapless pilgrims as well. So that will be exciting! We did manage to get the rest of the nights figured out up to but not including Santiago, so that’s a relief. How am I at this point already??    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    2

    O Cebreiro and Triacastela

    April 23 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    I missed the last two nights! Albergues almost always close up at 10:00, with most good pilgrims cozy in their beds by 9:00, feeling righteously judgmental when the party crew arrives in the now dark dorm at 9:50 and tries to surreptitiously open up their sleep bags, brush their teeth, etc. I am always a good pilgrim - except last night when we got to town late, got to a restaurant late, had an extra drink and voilá - WE were the last minute pilgrims. Two nights in a row.

    Not tonight though. This introvert needs to hit pause on the social side of things so I’m cozy in my bunk, getting caught up here while the others sit in the sun in front of the bar.

    So, we have made our way down the huge drop from Cruz de Ferro, up the big climb that takes you into Galicia and the beautiful stone town O Cebreiro, and today back down the final big drop. Just typical ups and downs from now on.

    Tomorrow we will pass Sarria, which will mark the beginning of the end. Lots and lots of people start in Sarria because it’s 100 Km out from Santiago and that’s the minimum distance for the pilgrimage to “count.” Si the vibe tends to shift - we’ll see.

    It’s so weird to be saying “we” after my very solo first few weeks, but it does seem that I’m be walking into Santiago with my friends Morne’ and Alejandro. The only real question mark being that one has a bad knee and the other a bad ankle, so we’ll see. Been interesting to balance talking time with alone time, but pretty doable. What happened to my chatter-fleeing self?? I do think I may be able to walk to Finesterre, and if so that will be solo. I think it will feel very good to finish in silence after starting that way.

    The big, gnarly Chestnut tree is one I remembered from last time. I knew it was in Gslicia somewhere, and it was so nice to come around a corner and meet up with it again! It felt like meeting a friend.

    Today I walked in ahead and found us an albergue, unit remembering until I walked down into the kitchen that we had stayed here before. It made me my miss you Morgan! But look at me, filling the advance scout role!!

    The unfolding of a Camino is a rich and mysterious event.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    1

    Molinaseca

    April 23 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

    Well! Today we (me and my new crew of Morne’ and Alejandro) climbed up to Cruz de Ferro - the iron cross, where one traditionally leaves a stone to represent something you want to let go of. I was happy to do that! It was a lovely walk up and a much longer, more demanding walk down, but it was sunny and warm, and we had great conversations and took lovely food and drink breaks. During one of them two cats took turns snuggling up to my pack. So cute!

    The views were phenomenal today. I only wish I could do them justice.

    We are staying in a beautiful little town, Carbo-loaded with pasta at an outdoor cafe by a river, enjoyed a couple tinto de veranos, and now it’s time to sleep!    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler

    Santibañez de valdeigesias and Rabanal

    April 21 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    I forgot to post yesterday, and it’s already a blur. Let’s see - it was a reading, chilly day until toward the end when it stopped raining, but it was never a downpour. As I walked I kept crossing paths with Linda from Canada and Morne’ (sounds a lot like Monet) from South Africa at the various eateries, and that was fun. We had shared a lovely albergue the previous night. Linda stopped before we did and Morne’ and I went on to the same place last night, which was also a nice stop. We walked together all day today, making this just the second time on this trip I’ve spent a day walking with another person, and we were good company to each other on what was a longer walk of about 32 Km.
    And no, friends and family, do not send excited inquiries. Morne’ is gay.
    We have now left the Meseta! We started to climb a bit today, but tomorrow is the big day, with a steep uphill to the Cruz de Ferro and an even longer, steeper downhill, which I recall as not my hardest day last time. Send good energy!
    And warmth! Apparently this hospitalero sees no need to turn on the heat, and it’s maybe 45 in here? Sleeping in layers tonight for sure!    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler

    A parade by any other name…

    April 20 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Short one today. Slept great in my nice little hotel room. My sleep app tells the story - see if you can tell which night was hotel and which albergue.
    Went to the square in front of the cathedral this morning for an Easter procession sort of thing. Which confirmed for me that “procession “ is just another word for parade, and I do not like parades. Had to remind myself, as I stood for an hour and a half in the chill morning air, that it was a cultural experience, since it sure wasn’t speaking to my spiritual sensibilities. Wasn’t in a great spot for pictures.
    Then it was a nice short walk, (in sun!) out of the city (yay!) to what turns out to be a really lovely albergue, and also very quiet, with only four of us here. Semana Santa is apparently over!
    Well, Easter is a season, at least for we Catholics, and I’ll have a good solid walk tomorrow with lots of mulling time, so that’s to the good.
    Peace, all!    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    So sad!
    So many observations offered as you walk.

    Lying low in León

    April 19 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    So here I am, in the big city of León, and mostly what I’m doing is enjoying my very own little hotel room and not going out. Partly because it’s cold and rainy, but also, I just don’t love the big towns.

    Walking in of course you trek through outlying burbs and industrial areas, then into downtown city streets. Guided always by the friendly yellow arrows, of course. Your average pilgrim feels increasingly out of her comfort zone until suddenly the magical Big Stone Wall appears, and you step into the Old City. Ahh! Much better! Now, where’s that Cathedral?

    Very aggravating that I can’t seem to find a poster or website that spells out their schedule for Easter. Nor does the front desk lady have any idea. And the Cathedral is literally across the street from this hotel! Why do I not have the WhatsApp number for the two super-devout Catholics I met along the way? I’m sure they have the scoop.

    Lost: one wool mitten liner, some time this morning. Very sad.

    So, now that I’m on the verge of exiting both León and Semana Santa, my new focus is covering enough ground each day that I have a reasonable chance of walking to Finisterre. I very much wanted to already and then a Camino blogger I like went and posted the most inspiring discussion of the experience of arriving there. If I can do it without turning this into a rush, I will. I mean, who among us doesn’t want to walk to the End of the Earth?    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler

    Reliegos

    April 18 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Well! I think my theme today is the push and pull between longing to connect and longing to disconnect. Yesterday I was talking with another woman who is walking solo and she was sharing her expectation of making close connections, in contrast to her experience of making casual, occasional connections. I could relate and I described the contrast between my first, very social Camino and this one, which is much like hers. The thing is, I know that such conversations ARE connection, and they really do comfort us.
    At the same time, I had booked at an albergue for last night which had many happy reviews because each bunk…drumroll please.. has a privacy curtain and its own outlet and light. Gasp! Such luxury! And I, too, was very excited about this curtain. Because as much as feeling isolated pains us, we ALSO long for separation and privacy. And just LOVE to draw that curtain! Isn’t that interesting? No wonder so many of us drink too much.
    AND, to pile onto that theme, tonight I went ahead and signed on for the communal meal at my albergue, because it was going to be vegetarian and I don’t eat meat on Good Friday, and it was at a reasonable hour. Usually I avoid them because I’m tired and done with people by the end of the day. Or so I tell myself. Because tonight was delightful! Good conversation, very good food, and two of us turned out to be musicians so we were treated to some great tunes. Could not have been nicer. AND yet, tomorrow I will have a private hotel room in Leon and I’m so excited for that! Even better than a dumb old curtain! So, back and forth, connect, hide out, feel lonely, connect. No answers here, just my rambling wondering about what on earth we humans are about. A very interesting Good Friday for me, and I’m guessing there are some connections to be made to that whole drama of love and loss as well…    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
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    1

    Bercianos del Real Camino

    April 17 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    The name is almost bigger than the town! I took a couple pictures trying to capture how abruptly this little town just stops. It’s a street and then…it isn’t. It’s like a set for an old time Western. Just a tiny little agricultural town, with a small Mercado where many of us, locals and peregrinos alike, queued up waiting for it to re-open at 5:30 so we could stock up. Apparently tomorrow, which is Good Friday, will be like a Sunday with almost everything closed. I finally got some cheese to go with the dates I score the other day. Hah!

    Larger scale, today I passed through the geographic center of my Camino! This was marked in two ways. There is a set of carved statues you pass between. Big photo op. And there is a half-Compostela you can obtain in Sahagún, which I did. If disaster strikes and you are unable to complete your Camino, this has you covered! Phew! Sahagún is also full of Camino art and funny pilgrim statues. See photos!

    I don’t know what to think about being halfway through. Is it going quickly? Slowly? Depends when you ask me. Right now it feels kind of quick. Am I really almost done with the Meseta? How can that be? (Ok, I just checked and I have almost 100km of Meseta left to walk, so that’s good.)

    I’m Camino-rich, and very grateful.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    22

    Moratinos

    April 16 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 0 °C

    I almost skipped my entry for today - it’s just a mostly quiet, inward time, and not going to be interesting to you my family and friends, I think. But, a couple things came to mind.

    For one, I had the always lovely Camino experience of stepping into the next bar where you will again sit, rest, and drink coffee, and was unexpectedly and warmly greeted by a couple I met the very first night in St. Jean! We were so pleased to reconnect! And five minutes later I hear “Allison!” and it’s Belinda, who I last saw maybe a week ago, when she was struggling so much I thought she might have to head home. But no, here she was, and again, we were so pleased to meet back up and exchange news. So write a nexus in that little bar.

    And for myself I’m deep into a book called The Wisdom Jesus. So well timed and helpful to me as I walk the Meseta and also walk through Holy Week. Give me lots to ponder as I walk.

    Today was mostly rainy and windy, not super conducive to photo taking, but of course I took a few. I was happy the sizeable hailI saw in the frosty grass did not fall on me.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    The only guy in that town who was being served. Grr.

    Carrión de los Condes

    April 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Quick one today, I think. Someone set their alarm for 5:30 today, (Bad form in an albergue!), but I decided getting an early start might be smart anyway, since I was a little worried about getting a bed. Probably unnecessarily. So I was walking by 6:10, in a cold wind under a nearly full moon. See attempted photo.

    The price I paid for my cold, dark, early start was no coffee or warm food for way too long. Nothing when I started, and then THREE little towns in a row let me down. When I did finally get to an open place it was great, and I had a nice chat with a woman from Canada. We communed over our love of merino wool, and she was very impressed by my pockets so I got to explain the whole skirt thing. Very satisfying!

    Nice, early arrival at my preferred albergue, welcomed by an efficient but also very warm nun, had a relaxing day. AND scored a new pair of liner toe socks, so now I don’t have to wash my one precious pair every day. Yay!! Did I mention that the ultra-distance runner I talked with as we left Burgos had Injinji as sponsor at one point? Well she did.

    Talked with some walking wounded today. Much bus-taking going on. One does not have warm enough clothes, was too cold today and tomorrow will be colder, so she’s probably wise to take the ride. Another’s feet are rebelling severely. I’m very grateful for my good gear and for my body so far putting up with all this.

    Tomorrow starts with a walk of 17 Km before the next town, the largest such gap on the whole Camino I believe, so I am NOT leaving town until I’ve had some coffee. Not happening.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    21

    Frómista

    April 14 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    For whatever reason, today started out feeling like a slog. Just a low start, made worse by the fact that it was an 11K walk to get to the first open cafe for some coffee. What happened to my plan to pack a little instant?!? It was only 9 K as it turned out because a very kind volunteer was providing coffee in tiny glasses in an ancient Ermita, where people have been caring for pilgrims for centuries. The tradition lives on! The stone carving is from that building.

    My sad and lonely blahs lifted after the cafe stop and a nice visit with a pilgrim from Portugal who I’ve been crossing paths with lately. Amazing what some coffee and a little human contact can do for the spirits.

    Arrived at my albergue without incident. Then the round of pilgrim life chores. Find an outlet to charge phone. Shower. Do the laundry. Find an ATM machine, because this town is big enough to have one and it’ll be a while. Dutifully visit the giant 15th century church on your way back, walking slowly on your tired feet. Check the laundry. Lie down!

    Also, because it’s Holy Week, and way more than usual people are arriving into the Camino, I had a little booking frenzy this afternoon. I’m not booked for tomorrow, so send me good vibes, but I am from Wednesday through Monday. I think. Pre planning, not my strong suit.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    231

    Castrojeriz

    April 13 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Last night I was blessed, along with a group of other pilgrims, by the sweetest group of nuns, and given a Miracle Medal to wear. So nice! Then went straight to the bar and chanted with a German guy, a Croatian guy and a woman from Turkey. Why didn’t I think to get a picture?? They were talking about relations between the three countries, and it was really interesting. The Turkish woman and I agreed that her president sucks but not nearly as much as mine does.

    This morning began in rain. It never got hard, or windy, and eventually it cleared off. I launched into the Meseta, and it was as wonderful as I remembered. Put me in a haiku frame of mind:

    Step by step - simple.
    Soft rain a benediction
    On my red poncho

    Again, and again,
    Just keep unwrapping this gift
    is the lesson learned.

    Chatter behind Me -
    up off the bench and go, feet!
    I prefer quiet.

    Bashō I am not, but it kept me entertained.

    Saw what must be a salamander of some sort - tiny little legs I could barely see. Anybody able to ID it?

    Arriving in Castrojeriz I of course note the ruins of a castle high on the hill above. Last time Morgan and Olly egged me on and we climbed up, in wicked heat, and explored. I gave it a friendly wave this time and called it good.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler

    Rabé de la Calzadas

    April 12 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    As planned, I slept in, luxuriated in having space to myself, then had a fancy, delish pastry for breakfast (see photo!) and sauntered out of town around 11:30, with a nice short walk planned - an easy 12.5 Km.

    On the outskirts of Burgos I met up with Monica, a Canadian woman, and we ended up chatting away the entire way to my stop! It was a sharp contrast to my normal solo walking days and it certainly made the time fly. I enjoyed it, but also now look forward to quiet tomorrow. I can guarantee I won’t be seeing her again. That maniac is covering 40-50Km A DAY! Just now she’s “slowing” down to 40 for a couple days due to some swelling in her feet. She’s an ultramarathon runner, has done tons of them, in the Sahara, the Alps, the Mohave, all over. And was a smoker until about three years ago. Crazy!

    My feet are happy for the slow day. They were yelling at me a lot last night. I’ve also been very remiss about stretching, which is not good so I worked on that today. A good rest stop!

    Tomorrow I will pass by some beautiful ruins that have a tiny albergue tucked into them. It’s low odds, but if it’s open and there’s a bed I’m stopping there. It would be so cool!

    If you look closely at the first fountain you’ll see that some of the figures are…risqué. There are others here and there, I have read, that are much more salacious. This apparently was common in the Middle Ages, on fountains and friezes outside of churches to emphasize the nature of “ the world” vs God’s kingdom. Hmm.

    The other fountain is just plain funky. Maybe a local artist? It’s right outside my albergue.    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    3

    Burgos!

    Apr 11–12 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    It was a quiet walk into Burgos today. Not as long as yesterday, but getting all the way into town ends up seeming looong. I’m proud of myself though! There are two routes in, the standard one, which follows the highway and is awful, and the much nicer, but somewhat trickier river route. We took that route last time, but as I recall David and I totally deferred to Morgan and Olly to lead the way. Well, I did it myself this time. Yay me! Also found my way around Burgos - to the hotel, the Cathedral, a pharmacy, and a vegetarian restaurant I remembered being really good last time. It still is!

    The picture looking out from a ridge shows Burgos in the distance when I was still about 20 Km away, and also gives a sense of the plain I am launching into tomorrow. The Meseta!

    The carved marble figures are a King and Queen (if I’m remembering correctly) interred there. I liked the detail of the little dog curled at the Queen’s feet. There are a LOT of bodies tucked away in that cathedral.

    If you look closely at the duck photo you’ll see ducklings!

    And the video is for you to listen to. If only I could identify that bird by its call!😂    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler

    San Juan de Ortega

    April 10 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Today was a longer day, about 31 Km but really not a hard day. I added unnecessary stress by convincing myself I had left my credencial- my “pilgrim passport” at the albergue this morning. Which led to several WhatsApp exchanges with the very kind and patient hospitalera, who of course couldn’t find it, because it was in my pack, tucked in the wrong place. Good grief.

    Which leaders to this thought: contrary to what many online language snobs will tell you, Duolingo does not suck. It’s true it will only take you so far, but it’s been my main practice for some time and my Spanish is so much more serviceable than it was last time. I’m not fluidly conversant, and only conversational practice will get me there, but still! I can ask questions, answer them and do all the necessary things. In more than one tense! It’s pretty satisfying.

    So, tomorrow I arrive in the big town of Burgos! It’s a shorter walk than today by about 5 Km, and I have booked a hotel room for the night. So exciting!! I can sleep in! I also plan on using the first half of Saturday to visit the gorgeous Cathedral and generally dink around, then walk a short day onto the Meseta, this officially starting the second stage of the Camino. I’m excited for that!

    I put in a couple examples of the positive graffiti sprinkled liberally along the Camino. And some flowers. And an old stone building that to my eye just oozes with character. I just want to be its friend! Don’t you??    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    Harpies!

    Walking solo

    April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    So, the profound difference between walking with someone and walking alone is really coming into focus. Today I found myself in a good conversation with a guy from Germany that probably lasted about an hour, but that is very much the exception, so far. Several people along the way have spoken very strongly of the benefit of walking alone and how much they prefer it after doing both.

    I am not inclined to compare them that way. My first Camino was so amazing - I would not change a single thing about it. I remember worrying early on that the amount of social interaction I was having was going to detract from the experience somehow, only to learn that for me it was a needed corrective, and ultimately a great source of joy.

    Now I’m having the Camino I imagined then. I’m only nine days in so maybe there are some bigger social connections ahead for me, but my growing sense right now is that there will not be, and I’m good with that. It’s early days but the - how do I even express it - the interior space that begins to - unfold? open? deepen? is more and more felt. I’m probably trying to talk about it too soon, hence the word finding trouble, but it’s what I’ve been walking with today.

    On a more down to earth level, I had a fairly long walk today that went well. Hi again though! Tomorrow is longer, and the last third is mostly uphill, but it’s supposed to be about 10 degrees cooler, so that will be nice.

    Today I revisited a church in a town famous for a story from the Middle Ages that involving a young man falsely accused of theft and hung during the pilgrimage. He was walking with his parents who continued on, brokenhearted. On their return they found him still hanging but miraculously alive. They ran to the town official and told him this. He was about to eat his roast chicken dinner and he told them their boy was as dead as the chicken on his plate, at which point the chicken leapt to its feet. The boy was cut down and released, and to this day two chickens are always housed in the Cathedral. See video evidence below.

    Tonight I am in a smaller albergue with exactly one other person, an Italian guy. Seems nice, not creepy at all, but if I disappear, his name is Duelio. Kidding! Not actually worried at all. It’s very nice to be in such a as quiet space for a change. And dinner was great!    Read more

  • Allison AllenSpring 2025 CaminoTraveler
    2Love the old, old olive trees!

    Longest day yet!

    April 8 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    I planned to walk to Nájera today, which is the standard stage. But I’d really like to get onto the Meseta, on the other side of Burgos, ahead of Santa Semana. That’s the week of Easter, and along with all the Holy Week celebrations, which I am looking forward to, it is also a week off for Spanish school kids and many families have a tradition of spending the week walking a stage of the Camino. Which is wonderful, but also it gets busy, and challenging to find a bed, or do I’ve been told. I’m thinking it may be quieter in the small towns of the Meseta. So I added one more town to my walk today and went about 35-36K, or about 21.5 miles.

    It went well! I mean, it was hot, I got tired, but I was not miserable! I think I’m really getting my legs under me.

    The sign thing is interesting. Absolutely crickets so far. I’ll keep putting it out, because who knows, but maybe it’s just a little too weird for people? It seems like a potentially great fit for the Camino to me, but maybe not? The upside is I really have been loving my days walking alone. Plenty of chats in diner stops and at the albergues. This kind of time and space to just be is an amazing gift.

    I stopped at a place offering “English breakfast “ today. Yes please!

    Also walked through a great area with a lake, lots of birds, including the two in the picture, and squirrels the general size and shape of our grays but a really pretty red.

    I’m in the Rioja region now. Lots and lots of vineyards, looking very different from my first Camino, when they were loaded with grapes. Also lots of olive trees.    Read more

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