Ossuccio (Lake Como)

Rain overnight but it doesn’t matter. Driving today. Leave Lake Orta, drive across to Stresa then around the bottom of Lake Maggiore, then halfway up the east side of Lake Como. Google maps says 121 km and 2hr 47 min. Seems slow doesn’t it. Average of 44km/h. Well, driving in Italy has changed since we were last here. In an effort to curb the road toll they have brought in 30km/h speed limits in towns and 50km/h limits in a lot of other places. As visitors we find ourselves caught between following the limits and the obvious impatience of the drivers behind us. So we go a little above the limits which are VERY SLOW. We find ourselves driving on ancient cobblestone absurdly narrow roads where we pass stone walls within a few cm of the side mirror. Somehow we didn’t hit any oncoming traffic (always too fast). Probably sitting on the other side of the car doesn’t help. Actually for a lot of the time we rarely get above 2nd gear. Occasional exciting bursts in 3rd. Tony once used 5th, and perhaps Ursula on the autostrada on Friday’s return to Milan might reach the giddy heights of 6th gear (she did). At home we curse when behind a truck or bus. Here it is very relaxing. If he can fit then we must.
First stop on today’s drive was Stresa. With a little effort we found a handy parking spot where luckily enough the ticket machine was broken. Much cheaper. Stresa is on Lake Maggiore so provides lovely lake and mountain views. We found a laundromat; Speed Queen, the Starbucks of automatic laundry. Everything worked flawlessly so having achieved sightseeing, washing and lunch we have one more task. The car rental lady had told us we must taste the Margheritine biscuits when in Stresa. We bought a box which we enjoyed each evening for the next few days. Like very soft and sweet shortbread which almost melted in the mouth. Finally we proceeded to Ossuccio. This was an epic drive for what seemed like hours and hours with an endless supply of roundabouts and only 2 U-turns. At about 6pm we arrived at B&B Locanda Garzola in the lovely lakeside locality of Ossuccio. Michel is our host and he gives us a stream of information (a lot of which we forget). Fortunately he pins each local gem into Ursula’s Google Maps thus preserving it for our stay. Our apartment is spacious with lovely lake views, separate bedroom and full kitchen.
Michel didn’t seem to consider walking as a transport option. He gave us directions to drive down to the village. We were a bit over driving so for dinner we walked directly down a steep fully paved mostly pedestrian path to the main road. The target restaurant was right at the bottom of the path. Unfortunately full. We had to walk along the no-shoulder narrow road to Trattoria San Giacomo. Nice lake and island view from our terrace table but some traffic which fortunately dwindled. Really nice seafood dinner.
Next day, Sunday 14th Sept: lovely outdoor breakfast on the lawn. Suggestion for today was Villa del Balbianello which occupies a promontory over Lake Como. Parking in nearby Lenno can be a problem but Michel’s parking suggestion, an unkempt green ex sports field, is very well placed for our next 3 days. We’ve done no pre-planning so wait in the ticket office line as visitors are filtered inside in turn between those who had booked online. Lovely gardens with awesome views of the lake. Lots of very shiny expensive-looking power boats milling around in the lake nearby. We really enjoyed these nicely manicured gardens, and could walk closely to the villa. (Inside fully booked to the end of September.)
To avoid continuous eating out we plan to buy some food. Hurried to the supermarket by 1pm but they start packing up early so are effectively closed at 12:30. It is Sunday. Back into Lenno for a lateish lunch at one of Michel’s waterside ‘pins’. Tony navigates Ursula on a more direct way home, contrary to Michel's instructions. No problem until: "I can't fit through. There's someone behind us. We'll scrape the wheels. And mirrors. " We didn't....somehow. Ursula held her nerve.
Michel was right.
No cooking for us tonight so again we walk down the hill and this time our choice from last night is available. San Giovanni Ristorante. Once again we enjoyed a nicely cooked Italian meal. Afterwards our waitress offered us limoncellos. Yes please! “My nonno makes it. He also does the cooking. I make the cakes. That’s my mama at the till.” After a question from Ursula she offered us a couple of large jammy biscuits Actually, really nice. This was all complimentary. A lovely warm experience to ready us for the strenuous 20 minute uphill walk home.
The next 2 days involve ferry trips to different lake towns. Drive to Lenno. Catch the ferry. Bit of a queue. The ticket office is supposed to open 20 minutes before departure. Each time was later, but it did finally happen. First day to Bellagio across the lake. Lakeside walk to I Giardini di Villa Melzi. Absolutely lovely gardens which occupy us for a couple of hours. Lunch and jewellery shopping in town (Ursula is still milking the burglary). Walked to Spiagetta della Punta which is the point of the dividing land in the inverted Y that is Lake Como. (Have a look at a map.) On return to Lenno we did our long-awaited small supermarket shop. These provide an enjoyable cultural experience and a relaxing evening in.
Today, Tuesday 16 September, the destination is Varenna. Once again we walk around a villa (Villa Monastero) with exquisite botanical gardens, and a museum featuring a floral art exhibition by Ken Scott. Bold and colourful and incorporated into garments. The villa has a beautiful park overlooking the lake featuring cypresses, palms and other exotic plants. Glorious. Well-earned lunch next to a couple of young Americans from Nashville Tennessee. The waitress was flat out: “busy busy” she said. She laughingly sat at our table to take the order. Lovely. Lots of people waiting for ferries home, but it all worked seamlessly. Really nice leisurely cruise as we zigzag across Lake Como. Beautiful dramatic mountain scenery. This is the alps
Tomorrow we return the car and catch a train to Bergamo.
The weather has been perfect so far for our time in Italy. Occasional rain at night. Days clear and sunny. 25 degrees maxima with cool mornings of about 16 degrees. Very light winds. Is it still summer here?Читать далее