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January 2018 - April 2024
An open-ended adventure by Brian Read more
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    Day 13

    Well that's different

    January 31, 2018 in Laos ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We were amused to see this sticker on the window of a 9 person people mover that we were using. The larger prohibition is quite graphic and I don’t think they were objecting to Whoopie cushions! The smaller sign above seems to indicate that fornication is also frowned upon, makes you wonder why they would need that one in the first place!Read more

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    Day 13

    Thoughts on Laos

    January 31, 2018 in Laos ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    As we leave Laos a few thoughts. It’s a great country to visit, the people are friendly even though they are one of the poorest countries. Luang Prabang stands out especially - I guess Thailand was a bit like that 20yrs ago.
    It’s hard not to feel sorry for Laos. They are landlocked and surrounded by aggressive neighbours. Over the years their older buildings and their heritage have been sacked and destroyed by invaders. Even in more modern times they didn’t too well. In the late 1800s They ‘ invited ‘ the French in to help against the Chinese. They promptly stayed until the 1950s abusing the locals until being kicked out.( at least they left behind the concept of a French Bakery and baguettes ).The Americans promptly showed up around 1960 to help protect them from the yellow peril only to stay around through the 70s using Laos as their private battle ground and favourite bombing location, not to mention spraying Agent Orange all over the place.

    Their situation now is still difficult, but the new prime minister seems to be doing a good job. Laos has limited resources. Much of the population still works on the land, but being landlocked they don’t get enough rain to be very productive in that area. The Mekong, as an energy source, and forests of nice hardwood trees, are the only other resources. Unfortunately the last government was corrupt so lots of the prime trees were cut and exported without any replacement .

    Laos has no money so the new major hydro dam on the Mekong is being built by the Chinese with Thai money. Laos will get peanuts from the sale of electricity to Thailand until the dam reverts to them in 30yrs time. The Chinese are also building a high speed rail link to Vientiane from China. Eventually the rails will go all the way to Singapore. All the building is done by the Chinese so not much benefit to Laos. Chinese businessmen are now buying up property here in anticipation of the new traffic. I can see this place just disappearing under a tide of Chinese. Depressing thought.    Read more

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    Day 14

    Hanoi

    February 1, 2018 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    What a difference from Vientiane to Hanoi. Firstly the temperature dropped by
    10C and there was a very cold wind. We did not come equipped with any cold weather clothes so it was quite challenging. The traffic has to be seen to be believed . There is no sense of lane discipline. If the road is marked for three lanes, then there will be five or six lanes of cars, scooter, motor bikes and bicycles! If there is any space greater than six inches between the cars, then it is instantly filled by motor scooters or motorbikes. At any traffic light that is at red, there is a solid mass of 20 scooters across by 30 bikes deep all waiting to rush forward. As the traffic moves the cars fight their way forward with liberal use of horns and flashing lights and the scooters zip in between. No one gives way but amazingly there seem to be few accidents. Crossing the road for pedestrians is very challenging. The recommended way is to walk across at a steady pace and the cars and bikes will drive around without stopping. One way streets are generally ignored as motor bikes come towards you and weave in and out of the traffic. No-one gives way, they all just surge forwards and hope no-one gets hit!

    Our hotel was in the centre of town, so was very conveniently placed for us to walk around and explore Hanoi. We were picked up by our guide the next morning and taken on a city tour, stopping off at Hanoi Hilton where the U.S. airmen were imprisoned. It’s now a museum and much of it is dedicated to the history of Vietnam under the French regime. We also visited the first university in Vietnam that is now the centre for Confucius teachings along with a temple dedicated to Confucius. All very interesting. Next we were to go to the Mausoleum and museum dedicated to Ho Chi Minh . However the line up was more than an hour’s wait and we were so cold by now, we declined to do that part of the guided tour, much to our guides consternation. He couldn’t quite grasp that we didn’t want to freeze ourselves to death just so we could view the tomb of Ho Chi Minh . Instead he took us through the old part of Hanoi which was more interesting. We went down narrow passageways that had no lighting where families live in rooms just off the passageway - very basic living. We were then taken to a wholesale market. In one area there were tall bags of dried mushrooms of all different kinds, others had bags of dried vegetables in some places the isles were so narrow that you had to turn sideways to pass through. Lots of other items of indeterminate nature.

    We spent the afternoon wandering round on our own, taking our lives in our hands every time we ventured across a road - crosswalks have no meaning there! We braved eating lunch out and were rewarded by a delicious meal - main course, drink and dessert for the same price as two cups of coffee had cost us at our hotel!    Read more

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    Day 17

    Halong bay

    February 4, 2018 in Vietnam ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    We were picked up early from our hotel in Hanoi for the four hour drive to Halong Bay. Our driver did not speak English, so from time to time he spoke into his phone and asked Google to translate for him. He then held up the phone for us to read. His first message was, ‘am I driving too fast?’ A later message was, ‘I am driving to scare you’. Finally ‘ the train is late would you like to see my son who is learning to make jade’ that was approps to visiting a pearl selling operation!

    We duly arrived in Halong Bay to board our Junk which turned out to be a large three deck, steel boat with 24 cabins - not quite as expected, but very comfortable, especially as it was only half full for this trip. We could not get over the sheer number of cruise boats, as we set sail into the bay. We were in a stream of 30+ boats all setting out. Fortunately they spread out into different areas, and we hardly saw another boat for the two days we sailed. The food on the boat is fantastic - full 5 course lunch and dinner every day - beautifully presented, but more than we can eat. The crew is also very polite and attentive. As it was still very cold we were thankful that the heating system in our cabin was blasting out hot air for all it was worth.

    In the afternoon we visited a floating fisherman village where we had the option of using a kayak or being rowed by a villager in a bamboo boat. There were about 20 houses in the village, each with its fishing boat and set of holding nets containing any larger fish that they caught.

    Halong Bay is filled with islands both large and small all made of limestone rising vertically from the sea, quite an impressive sight.

    Our second day saw us on a 10k walk on one island to visit a village that is run by the shipping company. The villagers are basically fishermen, but the company has helped them to set up co-operative farming to grow vegetables that the shipping company use on their boats. The people work the fields for a couple of hours or so a day, then they are able to go fishing for the balance of the day. The village looks quite prosperous with all the houses being made of concrete or brick. There is a school and a clinic in the village, so the people have a much better standard of living than most. As we wandered around, we saw how they used rice to make various products and could watch them in the fields planting rice and tending the vegetables. In the afternoon there was a visit to a local beach with the option of swimming. As it was barely 15 degrees with a very cool wind, and the water temp was similar, there were no takers. The same cannot be said of happy hour which saw us wrapped in blankets, sitting under heat lamps, determinedly drinking our G and Ts.    Read more

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    Day 19

    Hanoi 2

    February 6, 2018 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We returned to Hanoi from Halong Bay for an overnight before catching our plane to Da Nang the next day.

    It happened to be a Sunday when the road around the lake near our hotel is closed to traffic and turned over to pedestrians. The locals really take advantage of the opportunity. Lots of younger people but also many families. There were a number of places offering mini electric cars and tanks etc for the kids to ride on. There were groups playing hacky sacky, playing badminton, groups all in costume, videoing themselves dancing to rock music. There were groups of graduating students in formal wear etc. There were areas where kids were building towers with wooden blocks; areas where they were playing some game that required moving white stones around boards chalked on the street. All mixed in with street vendors, roller skaters and a few wedding groups. Everyone seemed very happy and relaxed and interestingly very few were on their cell phones. After the hustle bustle of our visit a few days earlier, it was nice to see a softer side to Hanoi.

    We had a late lunch among the partygoers before returning to our hotel for another early night.    Read more

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    Day 19

    Hoi An

    February 6, 2018 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Hoi An was our next stop. It’s on the coast near Da Nang and about an hour’s plane ride from Hanoi. The drive from the airport to the hotel showed us a very long sandy beach with an enormous amount of building going on for resort hotels and apartments. Some efforts seem to be proceeding well, but others have clearly run out of money, as the half-built structures attest.

    It is still quite cool here, about 15 degrees with a fairly stiff breeze. We have our own villa again that looks out onto the beach. It would be idyllic if the weather was warmer - since we have been here, a red flag has been flying on the beach showing that it is unsafe to swim. There are three pools in the complex - two are unheated, but one feels like bath water - the thought of undressing in the frigid air, does put you off wanting to take a dip! Our villa is quite large with two seating areas and a bed placed in the centre of the room. There is also a large soaking tub by one of the seating areas! We also have a his and her’s dressing area, two sinks and a separate shower, plus an outdoor shower in a private courtyard - not too shabby at all!

    We went into the town of Hoi An today which is a world heritage site. It’s a nice little tourist town beside a river. There are some old parts such as a Japanese bridge which dates from 1780, a house that has been in the same family for about 300 years. The ladies of the house do amazing embroidery and we were persuaded to buy a tablecloth and napkins - such pushovers! Otherwise there are lots of tourist shops, some nice restaurants, a big market and a number of places where you can get a suit made in 24 hours. Along the river there are lots of boats offering cruises along the waterfront.

    The New Year here falls on Feb 16 this year, so we have seen lots of preparations taking place - lanterns being hung, street lights and flags etc. Beside the roads we have seen lots of places selling peach blossom trees, yellow chrysanthemums, kumquat trees and trees bearing very large grapefruit. We think these are all to do with the festival in some way.    Read more

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    Day 21

    Hoi An 2

    February 8, 2018 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    At last ...... sunshine! Finally, the weather took a turn for the better and after a cloudy start, the sky cleared and we had a beautiful sunny day. It was still a little cool in the breeze, but we gratefully made use of the loungers around the three pools and enjoyed the sunshine.

    We did our constitutional along the beach, so felt that we had done at least some exercise. Anne dipped her toes in the sea and quickly retreated - too cold to swim in and today, a yellow flag was flying on the beach, that apparently indicates “sea pests” whatever they may be!

    The pool staff were very attentive and came around several times offering pieces of fruit, water, small ice creams, or offering to clean our sunglasses etc- very civilised. Had a nice pizza and beer served on our loungers for lunch, also very civilised. Have attached some pics showing the pool areas in the sunshine.

    Off to Ho Chi Minh city tomorrow where it is reported to be 30 degrees so that will be quite a change.    Read more

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    Day 22

    Saigon

    February 9, 2018 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    After a smooth flight from Da Nang, we arrived in the hot hustle and bustle of Saigon. While we felt that Hanoi was busy, it felt somewhat restrained but Saigon is just full on. There are more motor bikes and scooters than cars here (10 million people live in Saigon and 8 million of them have motorbikes/scooters) and they just ride them in any direction; whether it’s on the road or the sidewalk. In terms of crossing the road, there is no point in waiting till the road is clear because it never is clear. You just have to step off the curb and proceed across the road at a steady pace. No-one will stop for you, but they will drive around you. If you rush or you stop, then chaos ensues. It takes nerve to do it the first time but after that you believe that you will get to the other side unscathed and it works.

    We are on a VIP floor at the Caravelle hotel for some reason and they indicated that canapés were available in the late afternoon. When we showed up there was a full feast available complete with free wine! There was lots of Sushi, rice dishes, French fries, baguettes and cheese, etc etc. Unfortunately we had made dinner reservations so we were not able to take full advantage. Tonight we expect to eat our dinner there! In our hotel there is a famous rooftop bar where all the generals and war correspondents used to drink. It’s very nice and open to the breezes. From there we can see across to another famous rooftop bar at the Rex hotel, where the American press briefings were held during the war.

    For dinner we went to an Italian restaurant close to the hotel that was highly recommended. We both had pasta and I thought that my ravioli was the best pasta I have ever eaten- outstanding!

    Today we did a walking tour of the city. We started in the downtown area, visiting the city hall and the Notre Dame church. We also passed the spot where the famous photo of the helicopters evacuating the last of the Americans was taken. We then drove to the old national palace which is now a museum but shows the old meeting rooms etc as they were. Our next stop was rather depressing. It was a museum called the war remnants museum. It used to be called the American war crimes museum and that is still the major thrust of the place. The Americans certainly have a lot to answer for including their use of Agent Orange to defoliate the country. However, it was of course one sided ( the victors always get to write the history) with the communists apparently blameless. Nice collection of American planes, helicopters, tanks and guns which they left behind. Anyway rather depressing all told.

    We next visited a pagoda that was built in the early 1800’s to honour Buddha, before being dropped off at the local market. The market was enormous and sold everything from meat, fish, fruit, vegetables to clothes and souvenirs. The very first clothing stall we came to, Brian was captured ( physically) and was persuaded to buy some golf shirts etc. Very aggressive stall holders but fun bargaining anyway. We then wandered back to our hotel and on the way visited an indoor plaza that was full of very high-end shops; Coach, Prada, Chanel etc etc. Clearly someone has money to spare in this city. As it’s very close to the lunar new year, there are signs and preparations everywhere. This year it’s the year of the dog and there are many statues of dogs of different colours and sizes on display and also lots of yellow(chrysanthemums ) and red flowers being placed into arrangements. This is the biggest festival of the year, so most people take a week off to celebrate the event - somewhat like Thanksgiving, when people try to go home for the holiday to be with family.    Read more

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    Day 32

    Cruise on the Lower Mekong 10th-17th Feb

    February 19, 2018 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Today we joined up with the rest of the passengers who are going on the Pandaw cruise on the Mekong. Some of them have been part of a tour group visiting Vietnam and some, like ourselves, have been doing their own thing. Our fellow passengers are a mixed bunch of nationalities- a few Canadians, quite a few Brits, a few Aussies and a European or two. About 42 in total with the max capacity of the boat being 48. Apparently some are doing the seven day cruise like us, while some are doing five days and some just three days.

    We all met up in Saigon at a central hotel and then took a ninety minute coach ride to the boat on the Mekong Delta. By the time we had done the intro briefing and had lunch we were well underway. The cabins are compact but adequate for our needs, each with an en-suite bathroom.

    We had a relaxing afternoon on the sun deck then sampled some of the local beverages in the complimentary happy hour. A performance by a local group of musicians and singers completed the pre-dinner activities.

    One thing the boat did not have was any kind of reliable wi fi, so what follows is a summary of our seven days gently cruising around the Mekong Delta and lower Mekong River.

    Our general pattern( after having a substantial breakfast) was to visit a location in the morning then return to the boat and have lunch while the boat cruised to the next point of interest. After that expedition, we returned to the boat to sit on the sun deck and snooze, read, drink etc while watching the world go by as we sailed along. After dinner each evening there was a movie presentation but we never managed to stay awake long enough to attend any of them.

    Among the trips we made from the boat were ...

    Visit to a floating wholesale fruit market where the local retailers in small boats were buying from larger boats

    Visit to see local products being made including rice wine, snake wine (rice wine where snakes are put into the wine and the whole thing left to ferment for a year or two- we declined to sample this one), rice paper and pop rice.

    A San-pan ride through the canals of a village each rowed by a local fisherman
    or woman. That was very interesting as the canals were really narrow, so we were really close to the bush and houses which made us feel like we were really experiencing the real Cambodia.

    Visits to various markets along the river that would certainly not encourage you to eat the local meat or fish!

    The major city that we visited along the way was Phnom Penh (the capital of Cambodia) where we visited the king’s palace and the national museum.There was also a visit to the killing fields offered but we declined in favour of further exploration of the city.

    As we sailed, passing from Vietnam to Cambodia, it was easy to spot that we had passed from a relatively wealthy, vibrant country to one that is struggling to catch up. One thing in particular in Cambodia is the attitude to garbage. They just throw anything on the floor be it a bottle, a wrapper a piece of paper and no one seems to make any attempt to clean it up, whether it’s in their shop, garden or house. Consequently the whole countryside is covered with garbage. I suspect that when the rains come and much of this area floods it all gets washed down to the ocean.

    So a pleasant easy week of relaxation and sightseeing without too much effort on our part.    Read more

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