Gonzar to San Xulián

Today is a 20.4 km walk. My pedometer registered 21.4 kms. I had a good night's sleep because of the fresh air that came in the open window right beside my bunk. I was up at 5:50 and on my way around 6:30. It was still dark and nice and cool. When Suzanne and I stopped for her breakfast, there was a bus load of people and many Italians. There was 1 man making coffees and serving everyone. There was no line up but a horizontal competition at the counter to place the order. One lady dropped her cafe au lait (somebody bumped into her) because people were crowding the single door entrane/exit and the counter area. People were loud and obnoxious, then left their dishes on the tables, and did not acknowledge other pilgrims that were beyond their immediate travel-mates. Along the path, not many people said the traditional "hola" or "buen camino." The humble pilgrim attitude was not very apparent today and it was instead, replaced with a self-absorbed, disrespectful tourist complacency that is drenched in entitlement that screams "me, myself, and I." This evening, Enzo arrived at the albergue after doing 50 kms today. We discussed the spirit of the camino, which has changed after Sarria. He also finds the spirit of the pilgrim has been lost after Sarria. It has become a tourist attraction; not "the way" to a clearer understanding of oneself in a reflective mindset in silence and solitude, and respect for others with kindness.Read more