• Grace SHANNON
  • Chris Shannon
  • Grace SHANNON
  • Chris Shannon

Grace & Chris’ Camino 2025

50-päiväinen seikkaillu — Grace & Chris Lue lisää
  • Day 23 - Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero

    14. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Church bells ringing every quarter hour throughout the night made for a long restless night. We reheated some cold coffee left out by our hosts and embarked on our 10 km walk to real coffee. We had a café con leche at the first bar, but they had no fresh food. We walked a few blocks to another bar but it also had nothing fresh. A few blocks later we found a bar with fresh tortilla and enjoyed that and a second café con leche. After that, it was only a 7 km walk to our lodging.

    However, upon arrival the hosts said we had no reservation. I took off to find another place while Grace looked for her backpack, which turned out had at least made it there. Apparently the hosts realized their mix-up and called ahead to the next place to secure a room for us as I was walking so everything worked out.

    There's little to do here so we had a lazy afternoon of lunch, laundry, napping, and planning for future stages of our trip.

    AllTrails

    French Way: Carrión de los Condes - Calzadilla de la Cueza
    https://api-v5.alltrails.com/explore/recording/…

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 24 - El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de

    15. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    The day began with us waiting for our albergue's bar to open for a café. It was late in opening but fortunately the bar next door opened so we went there. They had excellent Napoleon's, which were like chocolate croissants.

    We walked by more fields of corn and young sunflowers than wheat today. Our breakfast town, Reliegos, had more bodegas built into the hillside. It also had a marker where a 37 lb meteorite crashed in 1947; the meteorite itself is in a museum in Madrid. Otherwise, the walk was pleasant but unremarkable.

    After siesta we visited a great museum on the people of León for the last 1,000 years. Then we had beers, wine, peppers, and chicken wings as we tried to solve the world's problems with two Camino friends.

    Tomorrow we walk to León and a rest day.

    AllTrails

    French Way: El Burgo Ranero - Mansilla de las Mulas
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • More Meseta Musings

    15. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    It’s almost 10:30 PM here. I should be trying to sleep, but I’m captivated by the view out our bedroom window: the last rays of sunset are playing off the 12th century church bell tower while the swallows swoop around.

    Today, I got caught up in chatting with Amanda and accidentally walked way faster than I intended. It felt great on my legs, but my feet let me know they still don’t like sustained fast walking. I’ll be back to sauntering tomorrow.

    Speaking of Amanda: it’s been a delight getting to know her, and I feel lucky to make a good friend on the Camino, but we’ll be parting ways the day after tomorrow: she’d slowed her pace to walk the Meseta with Chris and me and now she needs to hustle a bit to make it to Santiago in time to meet some other friends. It feels a little bittersweet.
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  • Day 25 - Mansilla de la Mulas to León

    16. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    It took two breakfasts and a first lunch, but we made it. The first coffee was at a pseudo café/shop in someone's backyard; the coffee was from a pod machine and it came with half a donut. The second place a few blocks away had good coffee but a tuna empanada and croissant-looking bread that wasn't a croissant; we didn't finish either. Early lunch had a real tortilla, beer, and Aquarius to help us finish the walk. We didn't linger due to the random guy who sat down and was sputtering profanities in French and confronting other customers.

    Second lunch, after checking in at the hostal and showering, was at a restaurant on the cathedral plaza. The pizza was good and so was the people watching. We awarded points for identifying who might be a peregrino.

    Tonight we're fine dining with our foodie Camino friend one last time before she continues on tomorrow while we take a rest day.

    AllTrails

    French Way: Mansilla de las Mulas - León
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 26 - Rest day in León

    17. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We woke up without an alarm and had café con leche with croissants by the cathedral that we then toured.

    This cathedral was my favorite so far as it was more complete and less chopped up into separate sections. The stained glass was magnificent and I would have loved to have a day where I came in at different times.

    I had coffee with one of my internet tutors who lives in León, which was a fun thing to do. He recommended a museum we didn't have on our list that was right next to the church with an evening pilgrims' mass so it worked out well. The museum, Museo de San Isidoro, was great but no photos allowed.

    After mass there was much drinking and tapas that we might regret in the morning as we start walking again, but it was a fun night.

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 27 pictures

    18. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    The meseta will soon be ending and the climbing begins. Lots of people hate on the meseta, but we've enjoyed it.

    Today's new words:
    Chupachup - lollipop in Spain
    Cachopo - Similar to a cordon bleu, cachopo consists of two thin, tenderized veal or beef steaks filled with ham and cheese, breaded and then deep-fried to perfection.

    AllTrails
    French Way: León - Hospital de Órbigo
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 27: Leon to Villavante

    18. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    The walk into and out of Leon is famously ugly (thanks, urban sprawl!) and we couldn’t get a reservation at the town before this one, so we were looking at a 31 km walk today. Since that’s well over my daily km limit, we took a bus for 7 km this morning and then walked 24 km to today’s Albergue. (Chris, rock star/purist/glutton for punishment that he is, walked those extra kilometers after dropping me off at our hostel in Leon on Thursday.)

    We chose the longer by 3 km, more scenic, route out of Leon which took us through a few sleepy little towns, over rolling hills, and next to a variety of crop fields and gurgling irrigation ditches — definitely worth the extra 45 minutes or so of walking.

    About an hour after our morning breakfast stop (a surprisingly good all-you-can-eat-and drink buffet at an albergue bar that was run by a Texan and Venezuelan), we saw an old man sitting by the side of the road. We slowed down to make sure he didn’t need help of some kind, but he jumped up and ran into the middle of the road to shake our hands before we could ask if he needed anything.

    The old man introduced himself as Demetrius. He said that he was 88 years old and lived just down the road a bit. Turns out that he rides his bicycle out to this lonely stretch of the Camino every day for the exercise and to chat with pilgrims as they walk by. Demetrius tried to convince us to take a short detour to his town’s bar, which was a couple hundred meters off the Camino.

    We spent a few minutes chatting with Demetrius and then we were on our way, remarking to each other that just about every lonely stretch of the Camino has had a chatty, friendly old man with encouraging words but that we’d already had our share of detours for the day (and we were still pretty full from our breakfast buffet.)

    Right before we got to town, Demetrius rolled by on his bike. He shouted, “Buen Camino! Don’t forget to drink at the bar!” and then he was gone. I told Chris that if he turned towards the bar, we’d have to follow him. However, he did not turn towards the bar, so neither did we.

    The rest of our walk was pretty, pleasant, uneventful — and long. We’re now happily settled into our albergue, which is pretty much the only thing going in this little town. As much as I enjoy exploring charming Spanish towns and churches, the thing I love about a “nothing” little town is that it means that all there’s to do is rest, maybe drink a cold drink in the shade or chat with other pilgrims. After a long day of walking, that’s pretty much all I want to do anyway.

    The pictures are from the last three days.
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  • Day 28 - Villavante to Astorga

    19. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We wrapped up week four today as we reached Astorga. We're two-thirds through our trip and two-thirds through the traditional sections as we leave the meseta and enter the mountains; 521 km are done and 259 to go.

    Today we passed a variety of crops from wheat to corn to beets to we weren't sure. The pine trees now populate the side of the road and the mountains rise before us. The red poppies and purple chicory flowers still show up, but there have been fewer butterflies.

    Astorga's cathedral was nice but not that impressive inside. There were a few pieces of art that caught my attention but I wasn't left with the same sense of awe as others.

    Astorga is famous for its chocolate, which would normally be dangerous, but we're only here one night, and I've learned my lesson from the cookies. The chocolate museum was small but cheap and they give you chocolate samples. The museum of the Camino housed in a building by Gaudi originally built for the bishop was interesting but disjointed. We didn't make it to the Roman ruins and museum.

    We squeezed in mass and finished off with some drinks and tapas.

    AllTrails
    French Way: Hospital de Órbigo - Astorga
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 28: Just a long, lovely walk

    19. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    In the many Facebook groups and Internet bulletin boards that I read as we were gearing up for the Camino, a common question was how much training and preparation was necessary. One school of thought – – that I don’t necessarily subscribe to – – claims that no training is necessary; proponents of this theory claim that the Camino is merely a long walk and that it trains you.

    Today’s walk, though, from the sleepy farming town of Villavante to the bustling city of Astorga really was just a long, lovely walk.

    We had our first morning coffee next to Hospital de Óbrigos’ famous medieval bridge (where a knight once bested 300 other knights in single combat jousting).

    After a steady but pleasant climb, we had our morning snack at La Casa de Los Dioses, a donation-based restaurant area where we had some fruit and cookies and played soccer ball fetch with a friendly dog.

    We had considered a rest day in Astorga but decided against it since we just had a rest day at in Leon. Since we will only be here for one night and there’s lots to see, we splurged on a fancy hotel that’s right on the cathedral Square and has a balcony that overlooks the bishops palace that was designed by Antoni Gaudí. I have heard other pilgrims say that being on the Camino has helped them simplify their lives and realize how little they need to get by. I am afraid to say that being on the Camino has only reinforced my appreciation of large bathtubs, air conditioning, and large comfortable beds.
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  • Day 29 - Astorga to Foncebadón

    20. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Today's 29th day of hiking on our 29th anniversary was long but enjoyable. The grade was more similar to the Bay Area hills than the Sierras or Rockies. The weather was cool with a nice breeze and the area was beautiful. Knowing we were in for a long day, we allowed ourselves to stop several times at bars for refreshments.

    Each of the towns was adorable in that small mountain town way, especially since they are also several centuries old. In one town we tried the local fresh cider which was okay but nothing special--I'll have to try others to see if it's typical. We leapfrogged a friend from England and shared lunch before the final leg. It was a full day of hiking but there's not much to do at our final town aside from resting and dining.

    AllTrails

    French Way: Astorga - Foncebadon
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • 29 years, 29 days, (almost) 29 km

    20. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Chris and I celebrated our 29th wedding anniversary and our 29th day on the Camino by walking what felt like 29 kilometers, even if it was only 26.7.

    If you’ve been paying attention, you might note that I’ve said that 25 km is my limit, and I won’t walk more than that. Grace, you might be asking, how did you end up walking so many kilometers on your anniversary? Let me explain:

    First of all, we’ll get to the peak of Mt. Irago, the highest point of the Camino and the home of the iconic Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross), tomorrow. A while back, we realized that we could make the Cruz to Ferro at sunrise but it would mean a longer hike today.

    Secondly, we found out about a detour that would take us through a super charming village that was built by the Maragato people starting in the middle ages. Chris and I are both suckers for a charming village and we both prefer walking through rolling hills dotted with abandoned sheep pastures instead of right next to the highway.

    Except for the last 5 kilometers or so, today was another pleasant walk. We passed through 3 or 4 charming villages (including Santa Catalina de Somoza, the only town on the whole Camino to be named for a woman saint) and stopped for a coffee or a beer and a chat at each of them. Even at the end, when I was pretty tired and my shin splints were acting up, all I could really feel was gratitude that I got to spend today having a grand adventure with my favorite person.
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  • Day 30 - Foncebadón to Molinaseca

    21. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We made it to the Cruz de Ferro for sunrise, which is atop the highest peak on the Camino. It was cold and windy, but I had my raincoat/windbreaker and gloves--I've now used everything I packed. Only about a dozen peregrinos passed us on the way up and we were able to have the space to ourselves for a few minutes in the predawn. There is a road to the location so it can get real crowded during the day.

    Unfortunately, there was no sun to be seen due to the clouds and trees. We dined on our first breakfast of a packaged muffin and packaged coffee drink and departed in search of hot coffee. We found it at the home of the self-described Templar knight who lives a few kilometers down the road. His story will be in the comments of the picture. He gave us a cup of coffee that was on par with that of Dr. Coffee, but it was hot and wonderful since other coffee was still hours away.

    The 9 km descent to the first town of El Acebo was rough due to the grade and scree, and we went more slowly then we had gone ascending the mountain. Fortunately, hours later the bar greeting us was wonderful with homemade tortilla, empanadas, and a butter cookie. Things were a bit easier after that but there were several long stretches of trail that tested the feet, ankles, knees, etc.

    Molinaseca is a pleasant riverside town with a nice park and swimming area; we only soak our feet as the water is rather cold even on hot days. The churches are closed on Mondays here, so we're relaxing a bit with no sights to see.

    Included are some photos from yesterday.

    AllTrails

    French Way: Foncebadón - Ponferrada
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • It’s not getting easier

    22. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Lest anyone think the Camino is all wandering sheep, second breakfast, and 10 AM beers, I want to share something I wrote while Chris finished touring the Templar Castle this morning. (I started the tour, but then my shins, ankles, and knees objected to all of the “bonus walking — especially climbing and descending the thousand year old stairs…):

    I have to admit that the last couple of days have kicked my butt. The walk from the Cruz de Ferro was gorgeous, but it was also one of the hardest sections of trail that we’ve seen on this trip.

    After Burgos (days 16-17), I felt like my blisters were under control and I had my “walking legs.” It seemed like all I had to do was keep the rhythm we’d established: wake up early, walk until coffee, take a break to visit a church and catch up with friends, and then walk until noon or 1.

    But since Leon (day 26&27), more and more twinges are coming up in my shins, feet, and ankles. I’m still overwhelmed by how beautiful everything is and how lucky I am to be here, but I’m also tired and sore all the time.

    We inch closer to Santiago every day. Arriving in Santiago seems both inevitable and impossible right now.

    Writing all this out, plus resting in the shade plus lunch , plus my new favorite walking meditation (noticing every part of my body that doesn’t hurt) set me mostly to rights.

    Then we got to tonight’s lodging and discovered that they have air conditioning and a great shower and the bar down the street served great homemade tapas, so I’m headed to bed in a good mood. Thanks to everyone who’s holding us in prayer. Your kind wishes certainly help smooth the rough edges!
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  • Day 31 - Molinaseca to Camponaraya

    22. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We have a few shorter days under 20 km as we used our last budgeted "rest day" to add a stop instead of staying in one place two nights. We enjoyed breakfast at our lodging and then walked 8 km to Ponferrada to spend a couple hours exploring a Templar castle that's in pretty good condition.

    Honestly, I could have spent all day at the castle. The views were great and I had just found some of the more detailed exhibits when it was time to get lunch and get back on the Camino.

    The 10 km to our lodging was pleasant but things were a bit warmer than the predicted 85, so we did stop once for a beer and once for an ice cream bar. After checking in we headed for a bar and a few more drinks and tapas to hold us over until dinner.

    AllTrails in 2 parts.

    French Way: Foncebadón - Ponferrada
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/mor…

    French Way: Ponferrada - Villafranca del Bierzo
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • Living at a walking pace

    22. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Walking the Camino has meant living at a walking pace. This means that each day we are only traveling as far as our feet will take us. The next town might only be fifteen minutes away by car, but that can be another hour or two on foot. Points of interest that are only a kilometer or two off the Camino seem forever away as we must consider the return trip and our total walking distance for the day. After hundreds of kilometers, the feet quickly object to any extended side trips. At the end of walking each day, even the interesting thing a block or two away is ignored as the body demands a shower and a cold drink.

    It means potentially settling for the nearest bar/museum/lodging; sometimes this is because it's difficult to tell if the other place is even open. On the other hand, we've learned through experience when we can be brave and hold out for something better. Often the second or third bar in a small town gets our business now.

    While walking can be limiting, it is also liberating. There are no bus/train schedules to stress about. There's no desperate search for a parking space for the rental car. There's no worry about the luggage left in the car getting stolen. There's not the often unrealistic attempt to squeeze in half a dozen castles, museums, churches, etc.

    I definitely feel like I've learned a lot more about the daily life of people. We observe them at all times of the day and for more than a few seconds. It's possible to stop and talk with people or at least offer appreciation for their beautiful house, garden, art, etc.

    I can tell you about the subtle differences in the colors of sky from the hour before dawn until the sun has fully risen. I can tell when the birds will begin to chirp, when the snails and slugs will still be on the trail, when the butterflies and bees will begin to feast on the wildflowers.

    I've learned how my body feels at walking paces 30 seconds apart, and how to tell which one will leave me without blisters and not ready to collapse at the end of the day.

    Don't get me wrong, I don't think this pace is for everyone and everywhere. The Camino's centuries of tradition has resulted in a structure that supports the walking. There have also been many places where I've wanted to linger for a day or two more but it hasn't been possible if we want to make it to Santiago in the time we have. I'm already planning the return trip to Spain that will not be at a walking pace so we can linger a few days in each of the bigger towns and see ones we will not reach this time like Madrid.

    As the distance on the trail markers decreases, I don't find myself thinking that we're almost done, that we'll have succeeded. Instead, a part of me mourns that the kilometers are dwindling and this will end. I don't want it to go on forever--there are parts of my regular life I miss--but I do try to appreciate each day that we have left.

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 32 - Camponaraya to Villafranca del

    23. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We had another day of starting late--7 am being late--so we could stop by a place during the day. This time it was a museum about halfway through our day--see my other post.

    Last night we stayed in a small town that was almost devoid of open businesses on weekday nights--even the lodging where we were staying didn't have its restaurant open. Fortunately, we did find a bar open for drinks and later one restaurant that was serving dinner. At the restaurant we met this couple older than us by at least a decade on their 89th day of the Camino. They had walked from Germany, through Switzerland and France, and then onto our route of the Camino Frances. We sure hope to be that awesome at that age.

    This region of vineyards in a huge bowl of a valley surrounded by mountains on all sides has been quite enjoyable to walk through. Tonight's albergue is built against the rock face and across the street from a river. The air is refreshingly cool as we gain elevation.

    AllTrails

    Afternoon hike
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • Museo Arqueológico de Cacabelos

    23. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Stopped in this museum on the Camino. It had a nice room about local archaeology, but what really struck me was the temporary art exhibit. The writing by Maria de Miguel and art by Emma Remis really moved me. Here is the English translation:

    Walking through art, pain, overcoming, and the heartbreak of a word that breaks you in the first three seconds someone utters it in a hospital room. That simple word that settles in the air and suffocates the future. You don't believe it. It can't be. The fragility of days. The practical joke of DNA when your cells multiply alongside doubts, alongside the desire to cling to the thread that holds you, to the heartbeat of a corridor of white coats that, suddenly, is inert. You hate it when they tell you: now you have to be strong, brave, and put your back into it. F*cking life, f*cking cancer.

    You have the right to shout, to be silent, to not tell or to share, to explain in order to let go or not say, or not show, or to feel like you can't take it anymore, to live in capital letters, to make yourself pretty, to squeeze the months digesting and going through in your own way an illness in which it's not a matter of being heroes: it's a matter of luck, of faith, of prevention, of research, of treatments that destroy you from the inside, and it's happened to you. I hope we get more budget, fewer assumptions, fewer taxes, more oncologists, more investments, less fear

    You never imagined entering an amusement park without paying admission for the roller coaster. Swallowing and clenching your fists. Colorful scarves. So many people like you, numbers going up, going down. From the decorated cells of a hospital. Your body, a prison trying to free itself from the jailer. Trying to escape, confront, pretend everything, pretend nothing. Not losing your dreams, not missing anything. One more step. A smile. Resilience, the science of kisses, the placebo of a WhatsApp at midnight. Their warmth, the strong hugs, the light rain on your cheeks, and the paint of your scar. One more test. The challenge of not looking back. Living with dignity. Dying with dignity

    For those who have survived uncertainty, for those whose destiny marked a date. There is no date on which we do not remember them, that we do not stumble upon their laughter, upon the echo of the desire that did not end with their desire. There is not a day when their hands remain tangled in yours. But there is a lump in your throat that won't let go. First and last names that had plans.

    I don't want to romanticize the idea of an illness that arrives anchored with a GPS, a different hope in each city. That geography is part of the pain and the budgets are different. May they not forget us. I don't want any more waiting lists or to wait any longer. I don't want the lack of oncologists in my city to lead me to become bedridden

    For all those reflected in "Memoirs of a Battle." For those who wanted to dance one more song on a sunny May afternoon. And for those who can dance it today, enjoying every chord, every ray of sunshine caressing their face. For every stroke, photograph, streak, battle wound, pigment on the canvas of a gaze that invites us on a terribly beautiful journey, full of love, full of rage, full of sap, of flowers in the throat that whisper that almost, almost make a word disappear, which, from so much naming it, painting it, speaking it, silencing it, treating it, should disappear: its accent, its folds, its claws, its haste and return joy to us in every cell of a journey of Life and back.

    María de Miguel,
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  • Day 33

    24. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Villafranca del Bierzo to Vega de Valcarce

    At the bar this morning we met Natalia, who we had passed a few times but never talked with much. She is an elementary teacher from Switzerland. She was a slow walker, but we were only going 16 km today so we were happy to go slowly, including two bar stops. Today, the Camino was along a frontage road and river and passed through a couple charming towns.

    We arrived before noon and bought cheese and bread for a picnic by the river. After that was checking in at the albergue followed by a beer of course--not the first of the day. At the bar they had ice cream so we got the bar tender to make us affogatos.

    Apparently refreshed by the afternoon coffee, Grace agreed to hike up the hill to the castle ruins even though we knew it was closed and would only be able to see the outside. It was less than a kilometer but very steep. The views were worth it and Grace is on record saying she was glad she did it.

    When we returned to the albergue, Dieter and Nicole, our two German friends who are accidentally on the Camino walked in; they had taken a few rest days in León so had ended up behind us even though they walk 30 km or more per day. All the nearby restaurants were closed so we made dinner with them--our first dinner not from a bar or restaurant for over a month. Grace made a pasta with vegetables and bacon. I made a salad. The Germans made a fruit salad to go with yogurt.

    AllTrails

    French Way: Villafranca - O Cebreiro
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/mor…

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 34

    25. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Vega de Valcarce to O Cebreiro

    Today was the hardest of the remaining ascents, but we had set ourselves up for success by only planning on a 13 km day for the 2,500 ft climb. Tomorrow might be just as hard though as we go 21 km and descend from these peaks.

    The hike took us through a few more small towns/villages and into Galicia, our final autonomous community (province/state) for this trip. We ran into Natalia as she getting on a horse to go up to O Cebreiro--it was a tempting option but we did the hike and enjoyed it. We took a small detour halfway up to see a church that ended up being open.

    O Cebreiro is famous for a story of the Eucharist being transformed into real flesh and blood--full story in the photos. However, I think it's just as popular now for its great views of the surrounding mountains. We'll attend the pilgrims' mass tonight in the church where the miracle occurred.

    Today is the feast of Santiago with a lot of celebrations, especially in Galicia. The president of Spain was in Santiago and it was likely more crazy than usual with pilgrims. We're just as happy to be up here mostly alone on the mountaintop. Some guides have described this town as very touristy but it wasn't that bad, especially after 5 pm.

    AllTrails

    French Way: Villafranca del Bierzo - Las Herrerías de Valcarce
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 35 - O Cebreiro to Triacastela

    26. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Thanks to an early start and clear skies we were finally able to see the Milky Way as we exited our mountaintop lodging. Just as the sun has always been at our back with our shadows pointing the way, you could see how the stars lead to Santiago.

    As hoped for, this descent was much easier than others so we completed our 22 km and made it into our final destination before 1 pm. We tried visiting the local church but there was a wedding scheduled for the day. We ate lunch nearby and could hear, almost feel, all the fireworks they were using to celebrate.

    We've been enjoying the Galician wines and their cheeses. They serve a soft cheese with honey for dessert and Grace had it as part of her stuffed chicken for lunch.

    On the way down the mountain I played chicken with a cow and lost. The cows were friendly though so it only meant I had to step out of the way. Yes, there's a video. We hit a few cow traffic jams as ranchers moved them along the trail from one field to another.

    Things have begun to get more crowded with peregrinos. We're within 200 km of Santiago, which is the distance required for bicyclists wanting a Compostela certificate. Tomorrow we have another 22 km day and will pass through Sarria where many people start as it is the big city just beyond the 100 km mark required for walking peregrinos. I suspect a sizable number of people start in O Cebreiro for the view and beautiful walk out of the mountains.

    It's hard to believe we will be done walking in a week. It's been an enjoyable five weeks with many ups and downs both physically and mentally but I'm definitely glad we've done it.

    AllTrails

    French Way: O Cebreiro - Triacastela
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 36 - Triacastela to Barbadelo

    27. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    There we three paths to reach Sarria today and we opted for the shortest one as it still meant a 22 km day. There were not a lot of historical places along the route but it was noted as still being beautiful. It was beautiful forest and farmland and had some unique spots.

    Shortly after starting down the path into the forest was an art studio that was open at 6:30 in the morning. We chatted with the hosts who were covering while the artist was back in England getting his visa renewed. We bought a print that will likely end up on our travel wall and received hand painted sellos (stamps) for our credentials.

    Later on in the morning we came across another pilgrim oasis, Terra de Luz, similar to the one on our way to Astorga. We enjoyed a coffee and cookie, rambled through the garden, and walked part of the labyrinth.

    In Sarria, we were too late for mass but took a small detour off the Camino to have lunch at a restaurant, La Salina, a friend who is now ahead of us recommended. It was well worth the detour but difficult to get back up for the last 4 km. I bought a small bottle of liquor for later.

    We pulled it together and trudged up a few more hills to our albergue, which turns out to be quite luxurious and even has a pool. So, I'm now writing with a glass of sangria in one hand and my feet soaking in the cool water.

    AllTrails

    French Way: Triacastela - Sarria
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • Today was a good day

    27. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    I’ve had a few days of feeling like I was on the Struggle Bus: the shin splints I picked up after the Iron Cross — while relatively mild — were really getting me down. Having to say goodbye to Camino friends as they walked on ahead of us also had me feeling a little sad. After a good cry yesterday, Chris and I searched out the busiest restaurant full of pilgrims we could find for dinner. We ended up sitting on our own, but soaking up the Peregrino Energy helped my mood a bunch. I also figured out a stretching routine that seems to have helped my legs feel better.

    I woke up this morning feeling great.

    As Chris mentioned, today’s walk was beautiful and full of amazing art and community spaces. We spent almost an hour hanging out at that Pilgrim Oasis. Their permaculture garden was one of the best I’ve ever seen!

    As luck would have it, one of our newer Camino friends, Natalia from Switzerland, is staying at the same Albergue as we are. The weather was lovely and our Albergue had a pool. Chris, Natalia, and I spent a lovely afternoon drinking sangria by the pool. Natalia introduced us to Yuchi from Taiwan and the four of us had dinner together. Natalia is also a teacher, so we had fun sharing “classroom war stories.” It’s hard to believe we’ll be in Santiago in 5 days!
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  • Day 37 - Barbadelo to Portomarin

    28. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We departed while the crowds were still eating breakfast so things were not too crowded on the trail, but we can tell there are a lot more people on this part of the Camino. There are especially a lot more younger people, often teenagers with a chaperone or two.

    Today was pretty easy and quick. We only went 19 km and there were no real points of interest along the way where we lingered. We did stop for photos as we reached the official markers for 100 km to Santiago.

    We beat the crowds to the albergue so had first crack at the washer and dryer before relaxing for the afternoon. We then went to mass and had some good Italian food for dinner based on a friend's recommendation.

    Portomarin is a cute city with an interesting story. "In the 1950s and 1960s, Franco backed the building of the Belesar reservoir to bring water-powered electricity to the area, and water from the dam submerged the medieval-to-mid-20th-century town in a matter of years. Before all was lost, the town people carefully disassembled and reassembled their two Romanesque churches—the whole of San Nicolás, and the western façade of San Pedro—and transported them, along with a few historic mansions, higher up the slope. In doing so, they managed to preserve the churches, the two icons that preserve the town’s medieval character."

    Despite the relative newness of the town it feels older and genuine. The feat of moving San Nicolás was impressive , but the rebuilt church is a bit disconcerting; the fact it was rebuilt is obvious in the imperfect seams between the bricks and the large crack in one side as the ground has settled.

    AllTrails

    French Way: Sarria - Portomarín
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • The good time trail

    28. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    The Camino from Sarria to Santiago is another polarizing stretch of trail. Everyone agrees that this stretch— the traditional minimum required to get a Compostela — is more crowded and that the crowds include large numbers of young people who seem at least as interested in partying and flirting as in contemplation and prayer. Some people find the crowds and the more raucous atmosphere off-putting.

    For a short while, we walked behind a group of 20-something guys who sang a marching cadence that roughly translates to:
    If I forget my backpack,
    I won’t care
    I only want to get drunk
    In Compostela, I can get what I need

    We also ate breakfast with a women’s field hockey team who were walking this stretch of the Camino as a training and team building experience.

    Really, the Camino has been less crowded than most of the popular trails in Yosemite. Everyone is laughing and joking (and sometimes singing and dancing). I’m finding it fun and energizing to be caught up in the excitement after weeks of hard work.

    I’m realizing that I missed several days of pictures so this post will be a bit of a photo dump.
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  • So many people!

    29. heinäkuuta 2025, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Today, we found out why all of the Camino guidebooks, podcasts, and internet groups tell you to “stay off stage to avoid crowds.”

    Even though we left plenty early, there was a line almost 10 people deep at the first cafe of the day about 7 kms into our walk (and the line kept growing once we got in it…) Fortunately, there was a practically empty cafe 500 meters (maybe a 5 minute walk) up the road.

    While we had a few moments where we were alone for a stretch of trail, most of the time, we could see a dozen or more pilgrims before or after us. Before today, we rarely saw more than 4 people on the Camino at a time. Mostly, it still feels like a party; but it does make navigating more challenging sections of trail a bit trickier. It also means waiting in line to order food and use the bathroom, which is something I haven’t done in over a month.

    About halfway through today’s walk, we took a very short (maybe 30 meter) detour to see a 2,400 year old Castro or fortified city. The main part of the Castro and its innermost wall have been excavated for about 20 years. There wasn’t much interpretive information at the site, but it’s open to the public and so we wandered around for a nice long time.

    Even though you can practically see the Castro from the Camino - and there are two different signs pointing it out — we were the only people there. It was definitely my favorite part of the day.

    Tonight, we’re staying “off stage” in the tiny village of Eirexe, and are enjoying being away from the crowds for a while. One of the reasons we decided to stay here was because there was a cool sounding 12th century church that’s about 4 km off the Camino and is only open in the afternoons. Unfortunately, when we took a cab out to visit this church, we found it was closed. Chris and I both feel grateful that we didn’t log almost 8 “bonus kilometers “ for a closed church.
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