Grace & Chris’ Camino 2025

June – July 2025
  • Grace SHANNON
  • Chris Shannon
Current
An open-ended adventure by Grace & Chris Read more
  • Grace SHANNON
  • Chris Shannon
Currently traveling

List of countries

  • Spain Spain
  • France France
  • United States United States
Categories
Couple, Culture, Hiking, Self discovery, Spirituality
  • 10.6kkilometers traveled
Means of transport
  • Flight8,963kilometers
  • Train746kilometers
  • Walking399kilometers
  • Bus48kilometers
  • Hiking-kilometers
  • Bicycle-kilometers
  • Motorbike-kilometers
  • Tuk Tuk-kilometers
  • Car-kilometers
  • Camper-kilometers
  • Caravan-kilometers
  • 4x4-kilometers
  • Swimming-kilometers
  • Paddling/Rowing-kilometers
  • Motorboat-kilometers
  • Sailing-kilometers
  • Houseboat-kilometers
  • Ferry-kilometers
  • Cruise ship-kilometers
  • Horse-kilometers
  • Skiing-kilometers
  • Hitchhiking-kilometers
  • Cable car-kilometers
  • Helicopter-kilometers
  • Barefoot-kilometers
  • 77footprints
  • 42days
  • 977photos
  • 489likes
  • Day 39 - Eirexe to Melide

    3 hours ago in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    The morning involved lots of open churches but closed bars. One had an "OPEN" sign but no one inside. I said that meant it was self-service but Grace disagreed. It was about 8 km and after 8 am before our first nourishment. We almost missed the non-peregrino bar that was off to the side with no tables, but someone exited and we heard the wonderful sounds of clinking glasses. It was a long 23 km day but we stopped several times for refreshments after that.

    It was laundry day but while I was out I picked up a €5 set of swimming trunks so I could go into the hotel's swimming pool and hot tub. Also, the change machine at the laundry mat was good for getting more €1 coins for Grace's candle addiction.

    AllTrails
    Afternoon hike
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 38 - Portomarin to Eirexe (Airexe)

    Yesterday in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The Camino has it all. Flat lands and mountains. Hot and cold weather. Dry and wet conditions (usually). Tiny towns and large cities. And, as Grace noted, empty sections and crowded sections.

    Yesterday we stayed in a city that is a usual stopping point for peregrinos only walking the final 100 km, so we left with the crowds. Tonight we're staying "off-stage" and the one restaurant in town is empty except for me and my glass of wine as 6 pm approaches. Grace hit the high and low-lights so I'll just add some photos.

    AllTrails

    French Way: Portomarín - Palas de Rei
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/mor…

    Buen Camino!
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  • So many people!

    Yesterday in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Today, we found out why all of the Camino guidebooks, podcasts, and internet groups tell you to “stay off stage to avoid crowds.”

    Even though we left plenty early, there was a line almost 10 people deep at the first cafe of the day about 7 kms into our walk (and the line kept growing once we got in it…) Fortunately, there was a practically empty cafe 500 meters (maybe a 5 minute walk) up the road.

    While we had a few moments where we were alone for a stretch of trail, most of the time, we could see a dozen or more pilgrims before or after us. Before today, we rarely saw more than 4 people on the Camino at a time. Mostly, it still feels like a party; but it does make navigating more challenging sections of trail a bit trickier. It also means waiting in line to order food and use the bathroom, which is something I haven’t done in over a month.

    About halfway through today’s walk, we took a very short (maybe 30 meter) detour to see a 2,400 year old Castro or fortified city. The main part of the Castro and its innermost wall have been excavated for about 20 years. There wasn’t much interpretive information at the site, but it’s open to the public and so we wandered around for a nice long time.

    Even though you can practically see the Castro from the Camino - and there are two different signs pointing it out — we were the only people there. It was definitely my favorite part of the day.

    Tonight, we’re staying “off stage” in the tiny village of Eirexe, and are enjoying being away from the crowds for a while. One of the reasons we decided to stay here was because there was a cool sounding 12th century church that’s about 4 km off the Camino and is only open in the afternoons. Unfortunately, when we took a cab out to visit this church, we found it was closed. Chris and I both feel grateful that we didn’t log almost 8 “bonus kilometers “ for a closed church.
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  • The good time trail

    July 28 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    The Camino from Sarria to Santiago is another polarizing stretch of trail. Everyone agrees that this stretch— the traditional minimum required to get a Compostela — is more crowded and that the crowds include large numbers of young people who seem at least as interested in partying and flirting as in contemplation and prayer. Some people find the crowds and the more raucous atmosphere off-putting.

    For a short while, we walked behind a group of 20-something guys who sang a marching cadence that roughly translates to:
    If I forget my backpack,
    I won’t care
    I only want to get drunk
    In Compostela, I can get what I need

    We also ate breakfast with a women’s field hockey team who were walking this stretch of the Camino as a trading and team building experience.

    Really, the Camino has been less crowded than most of the popular trails in Yosemite. Everyone is laughing and joking (and sometimes singing and dancing). I’m finding it fun and energizing to be caught up in the excitement after weeks of hard work.

    I’m realizing that I missed several days of pictures so this post will be a bit of a photo dump.
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  • Galician pipe player.Time to replace the tips. Not all the wear was from the Camino.We didn't actually go down this. We took the longer route.PortomarinSan NicolásSan NicolásSan NicolásSan NicolásSan NicolásSan Nicolás

    Day 37 - Barbadelo to Portomarin

    July 28 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We departed while the crowds were still eating breakfast so things were not too crowded on the trail, but we can tell there are a lot more people on this part of the Camino. There are especially a lot more younger people, often teenagers with a chaperone or two.

    Today was pretty easy and quick. We only went 19 km and there were no real points of interest along the way where we lingered. We did stop for photos as we reached the official markers for 100 km to Santiago.

    We beat the crowds to the albergue so had first crack at the washer and dryer before relaxing for the afternoon. We then went to mass and had some good Italian food for dinner based on a friend's recommendation.

    Portomarin is a cute city with an interesting story. "In the 1950s and 1960s, Franco backed the building of the Belesar reservoir to bring water-powered electricity to the area, and water from the dam submerged the medieval-to-mid-20th-century town in a matter of years. Before all was lost, the town people carefully disassembled and reassembled their two Romanesque churches—the whole of San Nicolás, and the western façade of San Pedro—and transported them, along with a few historic mansions, higher up the slope. In doing so, they managed to preserve the churches, the two icons that preserve the town’s medieval character."

    Despite the relative newness of the town it feels older and genuine. The feat of moving San Nicolás was impressive , but the rebuilt church is a bit disconcerting; the fact it was rebuilt is obvious in the imperfect seams between the bricks and the large crack in one side as the ground has settled.

    AllTrails

    French Way: Sarria - Portomarín
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • Today was a good day

    July 27 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    I’ve had a few days of feeling like I was on the Struggle Bus: the shin splints I picked up after the Iron Cross — while relatively mild — was really getting me down. Having to say goodbye to Camino friends as they walked on ahead of us also had me feeling a little sad. After a good cry yesterday, Chris and I searched out the busiest restaurant full of pilgrims we could find for dinner. We ended up sitting on our own, but soaking up the Peregrino Energy helped my mood a bunch. I also figured out a stretching routine that seems to have helped my legs feel better.

    I woke up this morning feeling great.

    As Chris mentioned, today’s walk was beautiful and full of amazing art and community spaces. We spent almost an hour hanging out at that Pilgrim Oasis. Their permaculture garden was one of the best I’ve ever seen!

    As luck would have it, one of our newer Camino friends, Natalia from Switzerland, is staying at the same Albergue as we are. The weather was lovely and our Albergue had a pool. Chris, Natalia, and I spent a lovely afternoon drinking sangria by the pool. Natalia introduced us to Yuchi from Taiwan and the four of us had dinner together. Natalia is also a teacher, so we had fun sharing “classroom war stories.” It’s hard to believe we’ll be in Santiago in 5 days!
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  • Day 36 - Triacastela to Barbadelo

    July 27 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    There we three paths through Sarria today and we opted for the shortest one as it still meant a 22 km day. There were not a lot of historical places along the route but it was noted as still being beautiful. It was beautiful forest and farmland and had some unique spots.

    Shortly after starting down the path into the forest was an art studio that was open at 6:30 in the morning. We chatted with the hosts who were covering while the artist was back in England getting his visa renewed. We bought a print that will likely end up on our travel wall and received hand painted sellos (stamps) for our credentials.

    Later on in the morning we came across another pilgrim oasis, Terra de Luz, similar to the one on our way to Astorga. We enjoyed a coffee and cookie, rambled through the garden, and walked part of the labyrinth.

    In Sarria, we were too late for mass but took a small detour off the Camino to have lunch at a restaurant, La Salina, a friend who is now ahead of us recommended. It was well worth the detour but difficult to get back up for the last 4 km. I bought a small bottle of liquor for later.

    We pulled it together and trudged up a few more hills to our albergue, which turns out to be quite luxurious and even has a pool. So, I'm now writing with a glass of sangria in one hand and my feet soaking in the cool water.

    AllTrails

    French Way: Triacastela - Sarria
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • Milky Way. Best I could do half awake.Sunrise with the clouds in the valley.They did not even stir for just another couple peregrinos.Wedding about to start

    Day 35 - O Cebreiro to Triacastela

    July 26 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Thanks to an early start and clear skies we were finally able to see the Milky Way as we exited our mountaintop lodging. Just as the sun has always been at our back with our shadows pointing the way, you could see how the stars lead to Santiago.

    As hoped for, this descent was much easier than others so we completed our 22 km and made it into our final destination before 1 pm. We tried visiting the local church but there was a wedding scheduled for the day. We ate lunch nearby and could hear, almost feel, all the fireworks they were using to celebrate.

    We've been enjoying the Galician wines and their cheeses. They serve a soft cheese with honey for dessert and Grace had it as part of her stuffed chicken for lunch.

    On the way down the mountain I played chicken with a cow and lost. The cows were friendly though so it only meant I had to step out of the way. Yes, there's a video. We hit a few cow traffic jams as ranchers moved them along the trail from one field to another.

    Things have begun to get more crowded with peregrinos. We're within 200 km of Santiago, which is the distance required for bicyclists wanting a Compostela certificate. Tomorrow we have another 22 km day and will pass through Sarria where many people start as it is the big city just beyond the 100 km mark required for walking peregrinos. I suspect a sizable number of people start in O Cebreiro for the view and beautiful walk out of the mountains.

    It's hard to believe we will be done walking in a week. It's been an enjoyable five weeks with many ups and downs both physically and mentally but I'm definitely glad we've done it.

    AllTrails

    French Way: O Cebreiro - Triacastela
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • Iglesia de San Andrés in La FabaIglesia de Santa María la Real de O Cebreiro

    Day 34

    July 25 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Vega de Valcarce to O Cebreiro

    Today was the hardest of the remaining ascents, but we had set ourselves up for success by only planning on a 13 km day for the 2,500 ft climb. Tomorrow might be just as hard though as we go 21 km and descend from these peaks.

    The hike took us through a few more small towns/villages and into Galicia, our final autonomous community (province/state) for this trip. We ran into Natalia as she getting on a horse to go up to O Cebreiro--it was a tempting option but we did the hike and enjoyed it. We took a small detour halfway up to see a church that ended up being open.

    O Cebreiro is famous for a story of the Eucharist being transformed into real flesh and blood--full story in the photos. However, I think it's just as popular now for its great views of the surrounding mountains. We'll attend the pilgrims' mass tonight in the church where the miracle occurred.

    Today is the feast of Santiago with a lot of celebrations, especially in Galicia. The president of Spain was in Santiago and it was likely more crazy than usual with pilgrims. We're just as happy to be up here mostly alone on the mountaintop. Some guides have described this town as very touristy but it wasn't that bad, especially after 5 pm.

    AllTrails

    French Way: Villafranca del Bierzo - Las Herrerías de Valcarce
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
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  • Day 33

    July 24 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Villafranca del Bierzo to Vega de Valcarce

    At the bar this morning we met Natalia, who we had passed a few times but never talked with much. She is an elementary teacher from Switzerland. She was a slow walker, but we were only going 16 km today so we were happy to go slowly, including two bar stops. Today, the Camino was along a frontage road and river and passed through a couple charming towns.

    We arrived before noon and bought cheese and bread for a picnic by the river. After that was checking in at the albergue followed by a beer of course--not the first of the day. At the bar they had ice cream so we got the bar tender to make us affogatos.

    Apparently refreshed by the afternoon coffee, Grace agreed to hike up the hill to the castle ruins even though we knew it was closed and would only be able to see the outside. It was less than a kilometer but very steep. The views were worth it and Grace is on record saying she was glad she did it.

    When we returned to the albergue, Dieter and Nicole, our two German friends who are accidentally on the Camino walked in; they had taken a few rest days in León so had ended up behind us even though they walk 30 km or more per day. All the nearby restaurants were closed so we made dinner with them--our first dinner not from a bar or restaurant for over a month. Grace made a pasta with vegetables and bacon. I made a salad. The Germans made a fruit salad to go with yogurt.

    AllTrails

    French Way: Villafranca - O Cebreiro
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/mor…

    Buen Camino!
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