Day 23 - Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero
14 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Church bells ringing every quarter hour throughout the night made for a long restless night. We reheated some cold coffee left out by our hosts and embarked on our 10 km walk to real coffee. We had a Czytaj więcej
Day 24 - El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de
15 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C
The day began with us waiting for our albergue's bar to open for a café. It was late in opening but fortunately the bar next door opened so we went there. They had excellent Napoleon's, which were Czytaj więcej
More Meseta Musings
15 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌙 26 °C
It’s almost 10:30 PM here. I should be trying to sleep, but I’m captivated by the view out our bedroom window: the last rays of sunset are playing off the 12th century church bell tower while the Czytaj więcej
Day 25 - Mansilla de la Mulas to León
16 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌙 15 °C
It took two breakfasts and a first lunch, but we made it. The first coffee was at a pseudo café/shop in someone's backyard; the coffee was from a pod machine and it came with half a donut. The second Czytaj więcej
Day 26 - Rest day in León
17 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
We woke up without an alarm and had café con leche with croissants by the cathedral that we then toured.
This cathedral was my favorite so far as it was more complete and less chopped up into Czytaj więcej
Day 27 pictures
18 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
The meseta will soon be ending and the climbing begins. Lots of people hate on the meseta, but we've enjoyed it.
Today's new words:
Chupachup - lollipop in Spain
Cachopo - Similar to a cordon bleu, Czytaj więcej
Day 27: Leon to Villavante
18 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
The walk into and out of Leon is famously ugly (thanks, urban sprawl!) and we couldn’t get a reservation at the town before this one, so we were looking at a 31 km walk today. Since that’s well Czytaj więcej
Day 28 - Villavante to Astorga
19 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C
We wrapped up week four today as we reached Astorga. We're two-thirds through our trip and two-thirds through the traditional sections as we leave the meseta and enter the mountains; 521 km are done Czytaj więcej
Day 28: Just a long, lovely walk
19 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
In the many Facebook groups and Internet bulletin boards that I read as we were gearing up for the Camino, a common question was how much training and preparation was necessary. One school of thought Czytaj więcej
Day 29 - Astorga to Foncebadón
20 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
Today's 29th day of hiking on our 29th anniversary was long but enjoyable. The grade was more similar to the Bay Area hills than the Sierras or Rockies. The weather was cool with a nice breeze and the Czytaj więcej
29 years, 29 days, (almost) 29 km
20 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
Chris and I celebrated our 29th wedding anniversary and our 29th day on the Camino by walking what felt like 29 kilometers, even if it was only 26.7.
If you’ve been paying attention, you might Czytaj więcej
Day 30 - Foncebadón to Molinaseca
21 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
We made it to the Cruz de Ferro for sunrise, which is atop the highest peak on the Camino. It was cold and windy, but I had my raincoat/windbreaker and gloves--I've now used everything I packed. Only Czytaj więcej
It’s not getting easier
22 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Lest anyone think the Camino is all wandering sheep, second breakfast, and 10 AM beers, I want to share something I wrote while Chris finished touring the Templar Castle this morning. (I started the Czytaj więcej
Day 31 - Molinaseca to Camponaraya
22 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
We have a few shorter days under 20 km as we used our last budgeted "rest day" to add a stop instead of staying in one place two nights. We enjoyed breakfast at our lodging and then walked 8 km to Czytaj więcej
Living at a walking pace
22 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Walking the Camino has meant living at a walking pace. This means that each day we are only traveling as far as our feet will take us. The next town might only be fifteen minutes away by car, but that Czytaj więcej
Day 32 - Camponaraya to Villafranca del
23 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
We had another day of starting late--7 am being late--so we could stop by a place during the day. This time it was a museum about halfway through our day--see my other post.
Last night we stayed in Czytaj więcej
Museo Arqueológico de Cacabelos
23 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
Stopped in this museum on the Camino. It had a nice room about local archaeology, but what really struck me was the temporary art exhibit. The writing by Maria de Miguel and art by Emma Remis really Czytaj więcej
Day 33
24 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Villafranca del Bierzo to Vega de Valcarce
At the bar this morning we met Natalia, who we had passed a few times but never talked with much. She is an elementary teacher from Switzerland. She was a Czytaj więcej
Day 34
25 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C
Vega de Valcarce to O Cebreiro
Today was the hardest of the remaining ascents, but we had set ourselves up for success by only planning on a 13 km day for the 2,500 ft climb. Tomorrow might be just Czytaj więcej
Day 35 - O Cebreiro to Triacastela
26 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Thanks to an early start and clear skies we were finally able to see the Milky Way as we exited our mountaintop lodging. Just as the sun has always been at our back with our shadows pointing the way, Czytaj więcej
Day 36 - Triacastela to Barbadelo
27 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
There we three paths to reach Sarria today and we opted for the shortest one as it still meant a 22 km day. There were not a lot of historical places along the route but it was noted as still being Czytaj więcej
Today was a good day
27 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C
I’ve had a few days of feeling like I was on the Struggle Bus: the shin splints I picked up after the Iron Cross — while relatively mild — were really getting me down. Having to say goodbye to Czytaj więcej
Day 37 - Barbadelo to Portomarin
28 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
We departed while the crowds were still eating breakfast so things were not too crowded on the trail, but we can tell there are a lot more people on this part of the Camino. There are especially a lot Czytaj więcej
The good time trail
28 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌙 19 °C
The Camino from Sarria to Santiago is another polarizing stretch of trail. Everyone agrees that this stretch— the traditional minimum required to get a Compostela — is more crowded and that the Czytaj więcej
So many people!
29 lipca 2025, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Today, we found out why all of the Camino guidebooks, podcasts, and internet groups tell you to “stay off stage to avoid crowds.”
Even though we left plenty early, there was a line almost 10 Czytaj więcej




























































































































































































































































































































































































Podróżnik
This was a cafe stop #2 for the day.
Podróżnik
Lunch at the place where we were supposed to have had sleeping reservations.
PodróżnikGlad you didn’t get stranded! Happy Trails!