Grace & Chris’ Camino 2025

June – July 2025
  • Grace SHANNON
  • Chris Shannon
Current
An open-ended adventure by Grace & Chris Read more
  • Grace SHANNON
  • Chris Shannon
Currently traveling

List of countries

  • Spain Spain
  • France France
  • United States United States
Categories
Couple, Culture, Hiking, Self discovery, Spirituality
  • 10.6kkilometers traveled
Means of transport
  • Flight8,963kilometers
  • Train746kilometers
  • Walking399kilometers
  • Bus48kilometers
  • Hiking-kilometers
  • Bicycle-kilometers
  • Motorbike-kilometers
  • Tuk Tuk-kilometers
  • Car-kilometers
  • Camper-kilometers
  • Caravan-kilometers
  • 4x4-kilometers
  • Swimming-kilometers
  • Paddling/Rowing-kilometers
  • Motorboat-kilometers
  • Sailing-kilometers
  • Houseboat-kilometers
  • Ferry-kilometers
  • Cruise ship-kilometers
  • Horse-kilometers
  • Skiing-kilometers
  • Hitchhiking-kilometers
  • Cable car-kilometers
  • Helicopter-kilometers
  • Barefoot-kilometers
  • 77footprints
  • 43days
  • 977photos
  • 515likes
  • Sunrise as we left for Leon on Thursday
    A mural on the way to LeonAmanda took us out to dinner before she left LeonA rare statue of a pregnant Mary at the Leon CathedralLeon's medieval wall.Just a little Leon city wall selfieThis morning's sunrise after we bused into Virgen del Camino, about 7 km from LeonWe did have to walk next to the highway for a teeny bit -- even on the scenic route.The view from the front of our Albergue

    Day 27: Leon to Villavante

    July 18 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    The walk into and out of Leon is famously ugly (thanks, urban sprawl!) and we couldn’t get a reservation at the town before this one, so we were looking at a 31 km walk today. Since that’s well over my daily km limit, we took a bus for 7 km this morning and then walked 24 km to today’s Albergue. (Chris, rock star/purist/glutton for punishment that he is, walked those extra kilometers after dropping me off at our hostel in Leon on Thursday.)

    We chose the longer by 3 km, more scenic, route out of Leon which took us through a few sleepy little towns, over rolling hills, and next to a variety of crop fields and gurgling irrigation ditches — definitely worth the extra 45 minutes or so of walking.

    About an hour after our morning breakfast stop (a surprisingly good all-you-can-eat-and drink buffet at an albergue bar that was run by a Texan and Venezuelan), we saw an old man sitting by the side of the road. We slowed down to make sure he didn’t need help of some kind, but he jumped up and ran into the middle of the road to shake our hands before we could ask if he needed anything.

    The old man introduced himself as Demetrius. He said that he was 88 years old and lived just down the road a bit. Turns out that he rides his bicycle out to this lonely stretch of the Camino every day for the exercise and to chat with pilgrims as they walk by. Demetrius tried to convince us to take a short detour to his town’s bar, which was a couple hundred meters off the Camino.

    We spent a few minutes chatting with Demetrius and then we were on our way, remarking to each other that just about every lonely stretch of the Camino has had a chatty, friendly old man with encouraging words but that we’d already had our share of detours for the day (and we were still pretty full from our breakfast buffet.)

    Right before we got to town, Demetrius rolled by on his bike. He shouted, “Buen Camino! Don’t forget to drink at the bar!” and then he was gone. I told Chris that if he turned towards the bar, we’d have to follow him. However, he did not turn towards the bar, so neither did we.

    The rest of our walk was pretty, pleasant, uneventful — and long. We’re now happily settled into our albergue, which is pretty much the only thing going in this little town. As much as I enjoy exploring charming Spanish towns and churches, the thing I love about a “nothing” little town is that it means that all there’s to do is rest, maybe drink a cold drink in the shade or chat with other pilgrims. After a long day of walking, that’s pretty much all I want to do anyway.

    The pictures are from the last three days.
    Read more

  • We'll be climbing into those mountains on SundayCachopoBurgers are always available in Spain

    Day 27 pictures

    July 18 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    The meseta will soon be ending and the climbing begins. Lots of people hate on the meseta, but we've enjoyed it.

    Today's new words:
    Chupachup - lollipop in Spain
    Cachopo - Similar to a cordon bleu, cachopo consists of two thin, tenderized veal or beef steaks filled with ham and cheese, breaded and then deep-fried to perfection.

    AllTrails
    French Way: León - Hospital de Órbigo
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
    Read more

  • Day 26 - Rest day in León

    July 17 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We woke up without an alarm and had café con leche with croissants by the cathedral that we then toured.

    This cathedral was my favorite so far as it was more complete and less chopped up into separate sections. The stained glass was magnificent and I would have loved to have a day where I came in at different times.

    I had coffee with one of my internet tutors who lives in León, which was a fun thing to do. He recommended a museum we didn't have on our list that was right next to the church with an evening pilgrims' mass so it worked out well. The museum, Museo de San Isidoro, was great but no photos allowed.

    After mass there was much drinking and tapas that we might regret in the morning as we start walking again, but it was a fun night.

    Buen Camino!
    Read more

  • Day 25 - Mansilla de la Mulas to León

    July 16 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    It took two breakfasts and a first lunch, but we made it. The first coffee was at a pseudo café/shop in someone's backyard; the coffee was from a pod machine and it came with half a donut. The second place a few blocks away had good coffee but a tuna empanada and croissant-looking bread that wasn't a croissant; we didn't finish either. Early lunch had a real tortilla, beer, and Aquarius to help us finish the walk. We didn't linger due to the random guy who sat down and was sputtering profanities in French and confronting other customers.

    Second lunch, after checking in at the hostal and showering, was at a restaurant on the cathedral plaza. The pizza was good and so was the people watching. We awarded points for identifying who might be a peregrino.

    Tonight we're fine dining with our foodie Camino friend one last time before she continues on tomorrow while we take a rest day.

    AllTrails

    French Way: Mansilla de las Mulas - León
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
    Read more

  • More Meseta Musings

    July 15 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    It’s almost 10:30 PM here. I should be trying to sleep, but I’m captivated by the view out our bedroom window: the last rays of sunset are playing off the 12th century church bell tower while the swallows swoop around.

    Today, I got caught up in chatting with Amanda and accidentally walked way faster than I intended. It felt great on my legs, but my feet let me know they still don’t like sustained fast walking. I’ll be back to sauntering tomorrow.

    Speaking of Amanda: it’s been a delight getting to know her, and I feel lucky to make a good friend on the Camino, but we’ll be parting ways the day after tomorrow: she’d slowed her pace to walk the Meseta with Chris and me and now she needs to hustle a bit to make it to Santiago in time to meet some other friends. It feels a little bittersweet.
    Read more

  • ReliegosMeteorite markerEntering Mansilla de la MulasTonight's lodgingView from our lodging windowMansilla de la MulasMansilla de la MulasIglesia de Santa MaríaI was wondering about thisGood diorama of mud brick wallsWild teasel. It's everywhere and I love it.Wild teasel used for carting woolChristmas candle decoration.

    Day 24 - El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de

    July 15 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    The day began with us waiting for our albergue's bar to open for a café. It was late in opening but fortunately the bar next door opened so we went there. They had excellent Napoleon's, which were like chocolate croissants.

    We walked by more fields of corn and young sunflowers than wheat today. Our breakfast town, Reliegos, had more bodegas built into the hillside. It also had a marker where a 37 lb meteorite crashed in 1947; the meteorite itself is in a museum in Madrid. Otherwise, the walk was pleasant but unremarkable.

    After siesta we visited a great museum on the people of León for the last 1,000 years. Then we had beers, wine, peppers, and chicken wings as we tried to solve the world's problems with two Camino friends.

    Tomorrow we walk to León and a rest day.

    AllTrails

    French Way: El Burgo Ranero - Mansilla de las Mulas
    https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/aft…

    Buen Camino!
    Read more

  • Day 23 - Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero

    July 14 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Church bells ringing every quarter hour throughout the night made for a long restless night. We reheated some cold coffee left out by our hosts and embarked on our 10 km walk to real coffee. We had a café con leche at the first bar, but they had no fresh food. We walked a few blocks to another bar but it also had nothing fresh. A few blocks later we found a bar with fresh tortilla and enjoyed that and a second café con leche. After that, it was only a 7 km walk to our lodging.

    However, upon arrival the hosts said we had no reservation. I took off to find another place while Grace looked for her backpack, which turned out had at least made it there. Apparently the hosts realized their mix-up and called ahead to the next place to secure a room for us as I was walking so everything worked out.

    There's little to do here so we had a lazy afternoon of lunch, laundry, napping, and planning for future stages of our trip.

    AllTrails

    French Way: Carrión de los Condes - Calzadilla de la Cueza
    https://api-v5.alltrails.com/explore/recording/…

    Buen Camino!
    Read more

  • Meandering on the Meseta

    July 13 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Today was a lovely, lazy day. We only had to do about 16 km/9.9 miles and the weather was nice and mild, so we slept in a little bit so we could grab a quick café con Leche from our albergue’s bar when it opened at 6:30.

    We’ve met a good friend, Amanda from Fresno, who enjoys good food and good wine as much as we do. Amanda joined our walk today. Chatting with Amanda made the kilometers seem to fly by.

    I know that Chris has already shared the details of our day, so I’ll just say this:
    I was really, really nervous about how the meseta would be because I had heard that it was really hot and sparse, but I’m finding it to be very lovely and mellow. The relatively flat terrain makes for easy walking and we’ve really lucked out on the weather. I also think that we have made a good decision to scale back on the number of kilometers we do in a day and that is made for a much more relaxed experience. We’re starting to develop friendships with some of the other pilgrims — partly because the easy terrain invites everyone to stroll and chat and the smaller number of pilgrims walking this part of the Camino means you’re more likely to see the same people so it’s easier to form bonds. I’m not sure that my mind is opening, but I feel as though my heart is.
    Read more

  • Day 22 - Ledigos to Sahagún

    July 13 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We enjoyed a full night's rest thanks to a 6pm dinner at the albergue and only a 17 km walk today. We drank a café con leche at 6:30am as the albergue bar opened and then departed with a Camino friend.

    We stopped in Moratinos for another café at a bar built into the hillside like many of the bodegas, some of which are believed to be up to 500 years old.

    Today's walk brought us into the province of León, but the city of León is still three days away.

    At Santuario de la Virgen Peregrina we received our official halfway certificates. The approach to restoration/preservation there was interesting. They've preserved what they can but haven't tried to recreate everything. Even faded and incomplete, it was quite astonishing.

    The timing of restaurants and the lunch hours seems to vary from city to city, but we figured out this one goes from 2 to 4pm, which overlaps with siesta here from 2-5pm when all other stores close; in the bigger cities some of the stores remain open. Some cities have lunch before the siesta and some during; it always requires looking about as Google is only right about half the time about the hours food is served.

    We enjoyed a great lunch at Casa Simón with raciones like braised leeks with cecina (dry-cured beef) and asparagus in a cream sauce. I'm also gaining an appreciation for good vermouth served over ice and not as a component of a cocktail.

    Tonight there is a gathering of pilgrims at 5pm at the albergue, mass at 6:30, and then maybe we'll have dinner or tapas; they usually have a communal dinner where we were planning to get rid of the cookies, but not on Sundays. Instead, we'll bring them to the 5pm social.

    AllTrails

    French Way: Carrión de los Condes - Calzadilla de la Cueza
    https://api-v5.alltrails.com/explore/recording/…

    Buen Camino!
    Read more

  • Monasterio de Santa Clara (Clarisas)
    Church of Santa María del CaminoStopped here for a croissant and sandwich we packed before we knew the bar was openOpen bar!Refueling after the walk

    Day 21 - Halfway there

    July 12 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Carrion de Los Condes to Ledigos

    As we end our third week on the Camino, we reached the halfway point both in terms of time and distance (about 400 km done). It was another 4 am wake up to beat the heat and the first 17 km without services. This was complicated by our decision to go to mass last night, and then out for a fancy dinner at a hotel a kilometer from our own lodging. This meant we were in bed close to 11 pm, but with no regrets after a tasty meal where a Camino friend joined us.

    Luckily, this time one of the midpoint pop-up bars was open this morning so we were enjoying café con leches and tomato toast after only a couple hours of walking. Unfortunately, there was no bathroom, so we didn't have a second café or linger long. Grace did take time to offer up cookies to the other patrons.

    Thanks to a breeze and some occasional clouds the walk was enjoyable despite being almost a straight road through the wheat fields for a dozen kilometers. At the second bar of the day we finished off distributing and eating one box of cookies.

    After that, it was a 7 km walk via a detour that kept us from walking alongside the highway. We arrived at our albergue around noon and enjoyed paella, pizza, and drinks until we could check in. Grace was a saint and did the laundry today while I took my siesta nap--she's getting hers now. At these busier albergues you have to get your load of wash in early or wait in line. Also, doing the laundry early ensures it dries by dinner/bedtime.

    AllTrails

    French Way: Carrión de los Condes - Terradillos de Templarios
    https://api-v5.alltrails.com/explore/recording/…
    Read more