Day 23 - Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero
July 14, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Church bells ringing every quarter hour throughout the night made for a long restless night. We reheated some cold coffee left out by our hosts and embarked on our 10 km walk to real coffee. We had aRead more
Day 24 - El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de
July 15, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C
The day began with us waiting for our albergue's bar to open for a café. It was late in opening but fortunately the bar next door opened so we went there. They had excellent Napoleon's, which wereRead more
More Meseta Musings
July 15, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 26 °C
It’s almost 10:30 PM here. I should be trying to sleep, but I’m captivated by the view out our bedroom window: the last rays of sunset are playing off the 12th century church bell tower while theRead more
Day 25 - Mansilla de la Mulas to León
July 16, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 15 °C
It took two breakfasts and a first lunch, but we made it. The first coffee was at a pseudo café/shop in someone's backyard; the coffee was from a pod machine and it came with half a donut. The secondRead more
Day 26 - Rest day in León
July 17, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
We woke up without an alarm and had café con leche with croissants by the cathedral that we then toured.
This cathedral was my favorite so far as it was more complete and less chopped up intoRead more
Day 27 pictures
July 18, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
The meseta will soon be ending and the climbing begins. Lots of people hate on the meseta, but we've enjoyed it.
Today's new words:
Chupachup - lollipop in Spain
Cachopo - Similar to a cordon bleu,Read more
Day 27: Leon to Villavante
July 18, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
The walk into and out of Leon is famously ugly (thanks, urban sprawl!) and we couldn’t get a reservation at the town before this one, so we were looking at a 31 km walk today. Since that’s wellRead more
Day 28 - Villavante to Astorga
July 19, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C
We wrapped up week four today as we reached Astorga. We're two-thirds through our trip and two-thirds through the traditional sections as we leave the meseta and enter the mountains; 521 km are doneRead more
Day 28: Just a long, lovely walk
July 19, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
In the many Facebook groups and Internet bulletin boards that I read as we were gearing up for the Camino, a common question was how much training and preparation was necessary. One school of thoughtRead more
Day 29 - Astorga to Foncebadón
July 20, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
Today's 29th day of hiking on our 29th anniversary was long but enjoyable. The grade was more similar to the Bay Area hills than the Sierras or Rockies. The weather was cool with a nice breeze and theRead more
29 years, 29 days, (almost) 29 km
July 20, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
Chris and I celebrated our 29th wedding anniversary and our 29th day on the Camino by walking what felt like 29 kilometers, even if it was only 26.7.
If you’ve been paying attention, you mightRead more
Day 30 - Foncebadón to Molinaseca
July 21, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
We made it to the Cruz de Ferro for sunrise, which is atop the highest peak on the Camino. It was cold and windy, but I had my raincoat/windbreaker and gloves--I've now used everything I packed. OnlyRead more
It’s not getting easier
July 22, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Lest anyone think the Camino is all wandering sheep, second breakfast, and 10 AM beers, I want to share something I wrote while Chris finished touring the Templar Castle this morning. (I started theRead more
Day 31 - Molinaseca to Camponaraya
July 22, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
We have a few shorter days under 20 km as we used our last budgeted "rest day" to add a stop instead of staying in one place two nights. We enjoyed breakfast at our lodging and then walked 8 km toRead more
Living at a walking pace
July 22, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Walking the Camino has meant living at a walking pace. This means that each day we are only traveling as far as our feet will take us. The next town might only be fifteen minutes away by car, but thatRead more
Day 32 - Camponaraya to Villafranca del
July 23, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
We had another day of starting late--7 am being late--so we could stop by a place during the day. This time it was a museum about halfway through our day--see my other post.
Last night we stayed inRead more
Museo Arqueológico de Cacabelos
July 23, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
Stopped in this museum on the Camino. It had a nice room about local archaeology, but what really struck me was the temporary art exhibit. The writing by Maria de Miguel and art by Emma Remis reallyRead more
Day 33
July 24, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Villafranca del Bierzo to Vega de Valcarce
At the bar this morning we met Natalia, who we had passed a few times but never talked with much. She is an elementary teacher from Switzerland. She was aRead more
Day 34
July 25, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C
Vega de Valcarce to O Cebreiro
Today was the hardest of the remaining ascents, but we had set ourselves up for success by only planning on a 13 km day for the 2,500 ft climb. Tomorrow might be justRead more
Day 35 - O Cebreiro to Triacastela
July 26, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Thanks to an early start and clear skies we were finally able to see the Milky Way as we exited our mountaintop lodging. Just as the sun has always been at our back with our shadows pointing the way,Read more
Day 36 - Triacastela to Barbadelo
July 27, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
There we three paths to reach Sarria today and we opted for the shortest one as it still meant a 22 km day. There were not a lot of historical places along the route but it was noted as still beingRead more
Today was a good day
July 27, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C
I’ve had a few days of feeling like I was on the Struggle Bus: the shin splints I picked up after the Iron Cross — while relatively mild — were really getting me down. Having to say goodbye toRead more
Day 37 - Barbadelo to Portomarin
July 28, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
We departed while the crowds were still eating breakfast so things were not too crowded on the trail, but we can tell there are a lot more people on this part of the Camino. There are especially a lotRead more
The good time trail
July 28, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 19 °C
The Camino from Sarria to Santiago is another polarizing stretch of trail. Everyone agrees that this stretch— the traditional minimum required to get a Compostela — is more crowded and that theRead more
So many people!
July 29, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Today, we found out why all of the Camino guidebooks, podcasts, and internet groups tell you to “stay off stage to avoid crowds.”
Even though we left plenty early, there was a line almost 10Read more




























































































































































































































































































































































































Traveler
This was a cafe stop #2 for the day.
Traveler
Lunch at the place where we were supposed to have had sleeping reservations.
TravelerGlad you didn’t get stranded! Happy Trails!