- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 30
- Friday, July 18, 2025
- ☀️ 27 °C
- Altitude: 839 m
SpainSanta Marina del Rey42°27’43” N 5°50’5” W
Day 27: Leon to Villavante

The walk into and out of Leon is famously ugly (thanks, urban sprawl!) and we couldn’t get a reservation at the town before this one, so we were looking at a 31 km walk today. Since that’s well over my daily km limit, we took a bus for 7 km this morning and then walked 24 km to today’s Albergue. (Chris, rock star/purist/glutton for punishment that he is, walked those extra kilometers after dropping me off at our hostel in Leon on Thursday.)
We chose the longer by 3 km, more scenic, route out of Leon which took us through a few sleepy little towns, over rolling hills, and next to a variety of crop fields and gurgling irrigation ditches — definitely worth the extra 45 minutes or so of walking.
About an hour after our morning breakfast stop (a surprisingly good all-you-can-eat-and drink buffet at an albergue bar that was run by a Texan and Venezuelan), we saw an old man sitting by the side of the road. We slowed down to make sure he didn’t need help of some kind, but he jumped up and ran into the middle of the road to shake our hands before we could ask if he needed anything.
The old man introduced himself as Demetrius. He said that he was 88 years old and lived just down the road a bit. Turns out that he rides his bicycle out to this lonely stretch of the Camino every day for the exercise and to chat with pilgrims as they walk by. Demetrius tried to convince us to take a short detour to his town’s bar, which was a couple hundred meters off the Camino.
We spent a few minutes chatting with Demetrius and then we were on our way, remarking to each other that just about every lonely stretch of the Camino has had a chatty, friendly old man with encouraging words but that we’d already had our share of detours for the day (and we were still pretty full from our breakfast buffet.)
Right before we got to town, Demetrius rolled by on his bike. He shouted, “Buen Camino! Don’t forget to drink at the bar!” and then he was gone. I told Chris that if he turned towards the bar, we’d have to follow him. However, he did not turn towards the bar, so neither did we.
The rest of our walk was pretty, pleasant, uneventful — and long. We’re now happily settled into our albergue, which is pretty much the only thing going in this little town. As much as I enjoy exploring charming Spanish towns and churches, the thing I love about a “nothing” little town is that it means that all there’s to do is rest, maybe drink a cold drink in the shade or chat with other pilgrims. After a long day of walking, that’s pretty much all I want to do anyway.
The pictures are from the last three days.Read more
Congrats, sounds like you’ve made it two thirds through your Camino! [Rosanne]