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Walking the Camino

July - August 2022
A 34-day adventure by Susan Read more
  • 32footprints
  • 2countries
  • 34days
  • 247photos
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  • 659kilometers
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  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    Day 20

    Hospital de Orbigo

    July 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    We trekked 20 miles today- cooler weather, feet are little achy, good time to put them up and blog. A little background about Orbigo: in 1432 a woman snubbed a knight. In order for him to be released from his prison of love and restore his honor, he had to joust and break 300 lances, near the Orbigo bridge. He succeed in his task, his honor restored, (get over it, already), and the old Roman bridge still stands, today. Signs seen along the way, since the beginning of the Camino: Castilla is crossed off many signs, signifying Leon's desire for autonomy; cute gender neutral shower/ bathroom signs; art in the park; two who met their demise in the Pamplona, Running of the Bulls; an invitation to my quilting sisters; good rules for any household; mural outside of a school; outside pooping area instructions for humans, you dog owners know the drill 😂; Socrates was right- the second bar WAS better😁; Just check out the name of the second bar!; Isn't it a shame that the free parking is perpetually Full? Oh wait, Full is the name of the hardware store!; An example of how the Basque language is so different from Spanish. I'll SIGN off for now. Love to you all!Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    111
    Day 21

    Astorga

    July 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 93 °F

    Wanderer, your footsteps are the road, and nothing more; wanderer, there is no road, the road is made by walking. - Antonio Machado

    Day 21 on the Camino- we hit 320 miles. It seemed like a good time to reflect on walking: Becoming one with a pack that is now finally adjusted, balanced, a comfortable back hug that carries what I need and provides insulation from the searing Meseta sun; In one day, seeing biome change from endless fields of agricultural products, to oakforest, to farmed pine and into the mountains; In one day, seeing the color of the soil change from limestone white, to pink, to red, to fertile brown; Visiting small, remote villages that visitors rarely see; Boosting the economy of small, rural towns through albergue and shop owners; Getting to personally interact with the local people- receiving well wishes, unsolicited directions and instructions, willingly answering questions, looking up to notice them staring in wonder, then quickly turning their heads, wishing us a Buen Camino even when we are not carrying our packs, (what gives us away?); Sharing stories with a friend as you match each other's stride, or just sharing space in your own thoughts, walking silently; Seeing the colors gradually changing and shadows appearing as the sun emerges from behind a mountain; Viewing the top of an ancient church, in the distance- a landmark that signals the next small village that we will be passing through; The meditative state that comes from just putting one foot in front of the other- providing time and space to consider the small things like the thick wool socks hugging and protecting my feet, the shower at the next albergue that will wash the trail down the drain, to the most important people and things in my life- considering how grateful I am for my family and friends, my home and my community. Walking brings you all to me, as I continue down the road. ❤️ Photos- hops; compost spreader; random rock carving; a cat walks the labyrinth; a roadside vendor; rivers and gardens; less than 300 kilometers to go; a duck points the way; sunflowers lead us to Astorga. Love to you all!❤️Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    21
    Day 22

    Foncebadon

    July 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Arrived in Foncebadon, the highest point on the Camino Frances, 1510 meters, (lots of uphill walking today- but not too tough, our legs just seem to do it.😊), and we've begun our 10 day countdown to Santiago! It's beautiful, cool, and relaxing up here.
    A few words about food: in the morning, if the albergue has a kitchen, we fix coffee and musceli in the microwave, if not, we walk about 7k and stop at a bar for coffee, fresh squeezed OJ, and tortilla, (layers of egg, cheese, and potato). Along the walk, we eat fruit, hard boiled eggs, Napolitanos, (croissant with chocolate filling). Upon arriving, we usually have a beer and toast to our efforts of the day. 🍻For dinner, we get the Pilgrim meal offered by the albergue. For 13 Euros, we get a mixed salad or soup, a meat dish, dessert, and wine. Nothing too fancy, but it tastes good and fills our bellies!👍🏼Random photos along the way, showing the dramatic change in scenery; check out the Italian guy who hauled this trailer contraption, pulled by his bike, all the way up the mountain!; Disclaimer- no cats were disturbed in the taking of this photo.😂 Love to you all!❤️    Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    Day 23

    Ponferrada

    July 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 95 °F

    Early this morning, before the sun came up, we reached Puerto Irago Cruz de Ferro. The tradition is to leave a stone of love and blessings to the great collection. Zayne, Arlo, Avery, and Ezra- My stone was left for you. You are so special and a blessing to me- can you feel how loved you are, even all the way from Spain?❣️A beautiful sunrise lit our way as we descended over 1000 meters through the mountains, and small towns, down steep rocky trails, coffee at a trailer along the path, past a pilgrim retreat, and finally down into Ponferrada. We passed by the newly restored medieval Castle of the Templars, where knights were ordered by King Fernando II, in 1178, to protect Ponferrada. Our trek, today, was technically difficult, nearly 20 miles long, and took seven hours. After taking care of chores at our albergue, we were rewarded with falafels and an IPA at a craft beer street faire! Only 8 more days of walking, the countdown continues! Love to you all.❤️Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    Day 24

    Villafranca

    July 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 90 °F

    Today, after a beautiful, 24k trek through the Cantabrian Mountains, we arrived in Villafranca. This amazing medieval city greeted us with ancient buildings, a cool breeze and an welcoming albergue, where we will spend the night, (see photo below).
    A few words about albergues...
    An albergue is a hostel for pilgrims, or people walking the Camino. It costs from donation- 14 euros for a bed for the night. Albergue Piedra, where we are staying tonight, is one of the nicest so far....(with single beds, without bunks!), but they vary greatly. Here are some examples:
    1. Bathrooms do have showers, but toilet seats, hand soap, paper towels are optional.
    2. Most have bunk beds with a vinyl mattress cover, a sheet optional. This means that you are guaranteed to sweat through your bedding and clothes at night, as air-conditioning or even fans are non existent.
    3. Some have windows, that may or may not open....again, the sweat thing....🥵
    4. We have had between 4 and 50 sleeping in mixed gender dorms each night. Ear plugs help drown out the snoring.
    5. Most have wifi. If not, a bar down the street usually does.
    6. Some have kitchens where we can prepare instant coffee and musceli before we start out at about 5:30am.
    7. All offer scrub sinks and a clothes line or rack, so you can wash your clothes, after showering.
    8. Some offer a communal dinner, where we eat with people from around the world. Last night, French, German, Italian, Spanish and English languages were all represented at our table, with lots of smiling, laughing and varying degrees of understanding. For 10 euros we got a three course meal with wine and bread- delicious!
    All Albergues, although different and unique in their own ways, are always a welcomed site after a long day of trekking!
    Photos: sand pictures with flowers in preparation for St James celebration; lots of medieval churches/buildings; coffee along the way; Paraguay represented at our albergue; Zamora Street sign; ancient insulation; Albergue Piedra- so comfy!
    Love to you all!❤️    Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    Day 25

    La Faba

    July 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    We reached La Faba, a tiny, green, cool mountain town. I'm hoping this post will upload as the wifi is a little sketchy.... so I'll keep it short. We had a beautiful walk today, with fewer than 200 kilometers to go, with nearly 400 miles walked, without a day off. Still feeling strong, but missing home and my people.Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    11
    Day 26

    Triacastela

    July 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    We reached Galicia today, and arrived in Triacastela, after 26k, at about 12:30. We started our trek at 5:30am, walking straight uphill, for the first 5k, our headlamps lighting our path. Walking in the dark is magical. The stars seem so close, as the full moon that guided our walk two weeks ago, has now decreased to a sliver. The tiny droplets that appeared in the beam of my headlamp, turned into a fog bank, and hid the view below the mountains when we reached the top. Walking in the dark is silent, allowing for things to emerge and transform. It also presents surprises, like the dog who was not sure that he liked me walking by his barn in the dark. After lots of barking, and a momentary standoff, he allowed us to continue on our way. As the sunlight emerged over the mountain range, we shared a cup of coffee and made a toast to the new day, and our last Tuesday, walking the Camino.
    Triacastela , our destination, is a small farming community, with gardens and cattle. The photos show some of the sites, including the cows who don't follow street signs, and the bathroom sign that gives explicit instructions, in case you need them.😂 Love to you all!    Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    Day 27

    Barbadelos

    July 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Another 30k day, following a river through countryside and farms. We decided to go the long route, (an additional 6.5k), to see more of the beautiful surroundings and to see the monastery at Samos. It also gave us time to reflect on some of the wonderful people we've met along the way: Rory from England who had never walked more than two miles in his life, who is walking the Camino in honor of his sister who is battling cancer; Maggie from NC who was looking for water in the street, suffering from food poisoning- we set her up with Pepto, Imodium, and a full water bottle; Jonna, Flo, and Paulo from Italy who greet us with loud yells and hugs every time our paths cross; Silvi, from France who we compare trail and walking notes with and philosophy on trekking; Patrice from France who tossed and turned all night, worried his snoring would wake us; Sonjay from London who is now surfing in the Bay of Biscay; the lovely Croatian couple who share stories of hitchhiking in Pakistan and Afghanistan, (he hides in the bushes until someone stops to pick her up, the hops in, too!); the German man who quit his job to walk the Camino- although his wife is pissed off, it's OK, because she is still working...🤔; the amazing Maria from Spain, who fell and broke her arm and nose, but keeps smiling, laughing and walking; Marshall from Willows, CA, who chased us down the trail to tell is we were going the wrong way; Kato from Japan, who studies English in the Netherlands?!; Mary from Alabama, who had a lung transplant two years ago, and whose experience is an inspiration, and the list could go on and on! On the Camino, so many wonderful people have crossed our paths- it truly is a small world, after all.🌎 Love to you all! ❤️Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    2
    Day 28

    Ventas de Naron

    July 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Today we arrived in the tiny farming community of Ventas de Naron- the only place I' ve seen where corn and pine trees grow side by side. A few minutes to review our stats: 28 days of consecutive walking; spending the night in 28 different Albergues; covering 435 miles; with 3 days of walking to go! It has been exhilarating, challenging, difficult, brilliant, arduous, awesome, and at times, challenged our comfort zones, (sir- please put your pants on!).
    Animals/insects along the way: horses, donkeys, cows, sheep, goats, dogs, skinny cats, green frogs, thin green lizards, dead hedgehogs; birds, hawks, storks, snails, grey butt bees, striped beetles, banana bread slugs, tons of mariposas that have led our way, cicadas, so many flies, a dead mole, and no pigs, (although we've eaten a substantial amount).
    Photos: homemade paella for dinner last night; structure at each house for drying corn; crooked gate to the dark beyond; Jack's Spanish soul mate; breaking the 100 meter mark; a gorgeous sunrise; banana, (bread), slug; beautiful sights along the way. Love to you from Spain! ❤️    Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    1
    Day 29

    Melide

    July 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Another great day of walking, ending in the fairly large city of Melide. Throughout our days of trekking together, Marjory and I have shared stories and philosophies on life, social justice, personal growth, family, and living our best lives. We laugh frequently as we tromp down the path, cried listening to Joni Mitchell, share "trail hugs" and have dubbed ourselves "Camino wives." We are quite the trekking duo and have developed a deep friendship as a result our Camino experience. Love you, Marjory.
    Photos: horse cops are the best; beautiful sites; Audi meets 1000 year old building; random mix of chemistry and music; crossing the ancient bridge into Melide; amazing churches; and the opportunity to order a complete cow for dinner?!
    Tomorrow will be our last full day of trekking, before reaching Santiago. It'll be a 30K day, alarm is set for 4:30am, and a 7 piece band is blaring on a stage across the street. Who knows what time we'll be able to get to sleep tonight.😳 Love to you all!❤️    Read more

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