Gobsmacked once again

When you start your day with an early morning walk through the ancient Judería, then walk along the river and across the Roman bridge, and then saunter around the mosque while your better half sleeps, it is a pretty good omen. We had a late breakfast in the hotel and then just waltzed into the Mezquita/Mosque and punched three buttons on a machine and out popped our tickets. No lines, no hoards, no big groups, it was wonderful.

The information I’ve read describes this as the greatest mosque in the world, and if that’s hyperbolic it’s not by much. Not that I’ve seen many, but I can’t imagine it could get much better. It was built in the 8th century on top of a visigothic cathedral, which was probably on top of a Roman temple. Now the mosque has a Catholic Cathedral plopped into the middle of it. What’s surprising, I guess, is not that the Christians added on a cathedral, but that they left the mosque untouched for three centuries. Apparently, they could resist no more, and hence the appearance of a 16th C Baroque altar, choirstalls, and cupolas. I was surprised to read that the local people and the municipal government begged the religious authorities to leave it untouched, but to no avail. But all of humanity is extremely lucky that the conquering Christians did not destroy this site.

Next stop, the Royal Alcázar, the home of Ferdinand and Isabelle when they were in residence, and apparently where Columbus’ trip was organized and agreed upon. Also where a lot of the Inquisition was put into place. The main attraction is the huge and beautiful garden, with many fountains and pools.

We had lunch in a Sephardic restaurant recommended by a dear camino friend. Several small plates were all we needed, it was great.

On the way back to the hotel, we stopped in the small but very nice Arqueological Museum, built on top of the excavations ongoing on the Roman theater below. The mix of cultures and regimes is just there out in the open for you to enjoy every time you turn around. It is a really beautiful city.

The temperature hit a high of 77 today, much cooler than we ever expected. Warming a bit in the next few days, but nothing really hot till we get to Granada next week.

We’ve fallen into the routine from earlier trips. Late breakfast, mid afternoon nap/exercise and then dinner later. We are eating outside, in small plazas, in various recommended places. The Spanish meal times work very well for us, because dinner starts no earlier than 8 or 8:30. It is working well so far, knock on wood!

PS, and for my Camino friends, there is a Santiago Matamoros!Read more