To Medina Azahara

Late breakfast, as usual, with a taxi ride out to Medina Azahara soon after. Yes, I am getting soft. We could have taken a bus to about a half kilometer from the site, but we splurged. This 10th century town in ruins was the residence of the caliph for about 70 years, until warring factions disputing his succession destroyed the entire place. It seems that moving the royal headquarters 6 km out of the capital city was not such a smart idea after all, because all the intrigue and skullduggery was easier to implement with the boss out of sight. It must have been an impressive place, though, with a lot of multi-arched buildings all interconnected through a maze of halls and tunnels— all to impress and overwhelm the emissaries from other kingdoms. I guess it worked with the foreigners, but the take-down came from within the caliphate in the 11th C. At least that’s my understanding. And then Fernando el Santo completed the final conquest in 1236. Great museum and video to get you acclimated before heading into the site. We very much enjoyed wandering all over, though Joe was usually holding onto my arm for extra balance. But no mishaps!

A huge part of the fun in a city like this is walking through ancient narrow twisty streets, seeing the beautiful flowers and patios, and coming unexpectedly on a plaza with cafés and fountains. We have done our share of that these first two days — Spain really knows how to do life.

We have been so lucky with the weather — I couldn’t believe we had to put on our fleeces both last night and this morning. Highs in the 70s or low 80s, when it is usually about 20 degrees hotter. It would not have been fun to walk all over the excavations in that kind of weather.

We are eating all our meals outside and wearing our N95 masks. This part of Spain has had a big covid burst, but the vaccination rates are extremely high and they are vaccinating people in their 20s and 30s now. Hospitals are not full and death rates are low, so that’s all good.

Tomorrow is our last day in Córdoba and we have a couple of good meals planned, so I’d better find some destinations for us to walk to and skip the taxis.Read more