Fuerte Concepcion-Pinhel (36 km)

I was tempted to sleep in and enjoy breakfast, but I am an early morning walker more than I am a big breakfast eater. I had been told that the night shift would make me a coffee and have a small breakfast laid out for me. As you can see, it was anything but small.

Except for the last couple of hours, it was pretty much a steady rain all day. The walk was actually a little longer than my ideal, and I know I should not have taken an hour to walk around the city of Almeida. But the rain had temporarily let up and I couldn’t resist the chance to climb around another old star fort. It is much bigger than where I stayed last night, because the entire old city is inside it!

The walk was entirely off road. Through vineyards, some olive groves, some fruit groves, and at some point the landscape changed and there were huge boulders everywhere.

Some of the paths were lined with blackberry bushes and I remembered how I gorged on them in late September on the Salvador. But these were bitter and much smaller, so I’m wondering if drought has taken its toll. Another reason to be glad if more rain falls.

One of the highlights was walking over the Coa River (a Douro tributary) on the 17th century bridge. Just as nice was being able to take a rest out of the rain at a spot under the newer much higher Coa River crossing.

I got to Pinhel in mid afternoon and learned in the tourist office that the newly opened Casa da Praca was very nice. It’s right in the main square, a little old house whose owners took 10 years to renovate it. There are about 7 rooms and it’s really very charming.

I have walked around this pretty old town, been to the castle snd walked through the Santiago door.

The owner has recommended a restaurant across the square, and I can eat at 7 pm! My day tomorrow will be shorter, and yes they are forecasting more rain.Read more