Satellite
Show on map
  • Day 9

    Trancoso to Sernacelhe (28 km)

    September 16, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    I thought I would have been less tired today than yesterday. Four fewer kilometers and a couple hundred meters less of elevation gain. But I was tired when I got here. Nice room in the Casa do Castelo guesthouse recommended by my amigos Nick and Wendy.

    What a glorious walk. There were many spots going through the hills where you could make a 360° and not see a town, a house, anything. Add to that hours through pine forests (I dare you to think of a better walking surface than sandy soil covered with pine needles) and even a chestnut grove at the end. Hours of quiet and time to ponder life’s questions, big and small.

    I passed a little shrine with various wooden feet placed around the Virgen Mary. I am assuming that this is a spot with miraculous healing, but I couldn’t find any information. I am hoping that my feet got some sort of boost, even though I had no offering.

    In one small village I met a woman out for a morning walk. At least 20 years younger than me, but walking in a lot of pain. She told me it was her knees. Too many years working in the fields, and now with her husband confined to bed it’s even harder. My Portuguese was inadequate to say much, so I wished her well and then spent a while thinking about how lucky I am in so many ways.

    The last 4 or 5 kms into Sernacelhe are through a chestnut grove. My favorite tree! Most of these were on the young side but there were a few of those huge gnarled seemingly dead trunks with new branches sprouting. I usually walk through chestnuts when they are in fragrant flower but this was a nice change to see them with all the fruits. The chestnuts of this region are outstanding and highly prized I was told. And if you’ve ever been to Portugal you know that chestnuts are a hot commodity!

    Sernacelhe has a 12C Romanesque church. A librarian took me through and also opened up the church’s museum with some old graves dating between 4C BC and medieval. And some incredibly beautiful jeweled vestments from the 17th century.

    Hoping to find a restaurant open for dinner!
    Read more